Dominica, the Caribbean’s Best-Kept Secret for Nature Lovers

Tucked away between Guadeloupe and Martinique is unadulterated Dominica (pronounced dom-ah-nee-ka). Because it’s often confused with the Dominican Republic and lacks direct long-haul flights, the destination has predominantly remained under the radar. But with few places left in this world that feel unspoiled, the country truly stands out. A favorite of Vogue’s Fashion News Director, Chioma Nnadi—who used to live on Martinique and brought her family and friends to Dominica twice because she loved it so much—she blissfully sighs when I tell her I’ve just returned from the verdant island. “Everything about Dominica is kind of magical. The fact that it feels like a small village, but has so many natural and unexpected wonders packed into one island, is beyond anything I have ever seen before. If you’re expecting a picture-postcard Caribbean beach scene with powdery white sand, then you won’t find it [there], but that’s also what makes it special,” she raves. With two-thirds of Dominica covered in rain forest, 365 rivers weaving their way around the land, and a number of volcanoes and waterfalls, you’ll wonder whether or not you’ve been transported back to the Jurassic period. Don’t expect to come here for white-glove service the way you would in St. Barth's or Grand Cayman, but rather to get a taste of what local, unsullied life is like. “Seeing how the indigenous Carib communities, which still build very traditional wooden houses literally on stilts, live was super-memorable,” recalls Nnadi. Now, who’s ready to pack their bags for the Caribbean’s “Nature Island”?

Hike Waitukubuli TrailThe longest in the Caribbean, coming in at 115 miles, it’s recommended that you walk one segment a day, which would lead to a whopping two-week hike through the mountainous terrain. It’s no easy feat, but for the truly ambitious, it’s a scenic bucket-list endeavor that will put you face-to-face with sulfur springs, local farmers, and picturesque waterfalls.

Sail Around the IslandFor those who want a quick glance of Dominica without all the work of a grueling 14-day trek, hop on a speedboat and motor your way around. On the northern end you’ll come across Douglas Point, otherwise known as Split Rock, named after the slab of stone that halved underwater upon separating from its cliff, as well as a waterfall that cascades directly into the ocean.

Visit Boiling LakeBe forewarned that this is known as one of the most difficult hikes you may ever endure. Located in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, the island’s UNESCO World Heritage Site, it takes about six hours round-trip and requires scaling steep inclines and trudges through sludgy mud and multiple rivers. It’s strenuous, but for the avid hiker, totally worth it when it comes to the panoramic views of the rain forest and a pit stop at a natural Jacuzzi before reaching the world’s second largest boiling lake.

Paddle Through the Indian RiverDon’t worry, your guide will be the one doing the rowing, but the calm and serene Indian River is a must for fans of Pirates of the Caribbean, where a few scenes of Dead Man’s Chest were filmed. The original witch’s hut is no longer there; however, a replica stands in its place and tourists would be none the wiser if they weren’t told it wasn’t the real thing. Enjoy cruising underneath the canopy of trees, and channel your inner Jack Sparrow at a riverside bar upstream.

Whale and Dolphin WatchingWhile they’re most prevalent in April during mating season, Dominica’s resident population of sperm whales can be seen year-round. Head to the southern end of the island to catch glimpses of the largest toothed whale, as well as a myriad of dolphins as they playfully jump in and out of the water.

Go Bird-Watching or Forest BathingFor those who have the patience or want some quiet time in the backwoods, consider heading up to Syndicate Forest with a man known as Dr. Birdy in search of the endemic Imperial Amazon parrot, the elusive blue-headed hummingbird, and more. Or, for those who need to decompress and are hoping to shut their mind off from the outside world, consider forest bathing, in which host Terri EarthDancer says the goal is to “reimmerse ourselves in the hidden power of nature.”

Keepin’It RealA small shack on the beach in Toucari with five tables and a rolled-up hammock stretching across a quarter of the restaurant, it’s the perfect spot for some homemade rum punch (a ubiquitous tipple on the island) and fresh fish off the grill, dressed simply with vinaigrette and served with rice, plantains, and vegetables.

Iguana CaféOwned by a Rastafarian man and his wife, this little shop (two tables and one narrow countertop) doesn’t look like much from the outside, but the food is packed with soul and flavor. Seafood is a must here, and if you get to choose the sauce that’s used in your entrée, go with the coconut pumpkin option—you won’t be disappointed.

Pagua Bay Bar & GrillOn an outdoor deck overlooking the Atlantic, regular diners here will tell you everything on the menu is good. Stop by for a quick lunch of fish tacos, but if you plan on having dinner, make sure to phone ahead, as it’s reservations only.

Sunset Bay Club’s Lobster PalaceAs its name suggests, this spot is known for the delectable crustacean, and although their size resembles that of a large langoustine rather than a full-size lobster, they are freshly caught and portions are generous.

Perched on a cliff on the northwest side of the island is Secret Bay, an intimate property consisting of eight tree house–style villas and bungalows, all outfitted with terraces and several with heated infinity plunge pools. The eco-hideaways made from sustainable materials (which, by the way, were all assembled by hand) integrate harmoniously with the lush surroundings, while each of the villa’s expansive balconies allows you to sink into nature even more. Fall asleep to the waves crashing against the rocks and wake up to singsongy chirping and butterflies fluttering around the trees before a chef arrives to prepare your breakfast. Here, things are done a little differently. Save for a couple of decks, there aren’t any communal spaces. Meals are served in the comfort of your accommodations; a yoga instructor will stop by if you’re in the mood for a morning stretch; and a masseuse will pop in for your afternoon treatment (ask for Margaux LaRocque, who really hones in on your problem areas)—it’s all about making things as convenient as possible for the guests. But if you do want a change of scenery, head down to the Souce Shack, where you can have a drink and watch the cooks at work; venture over to the black-sand Tibay Beach; or grab a kayak (paddleboards and snorkeling gear are also available) and make your way to Secret Beach, where a strip of soft white sand only accessible by water awaits you. It’s truly a romantic getaway, where you can do as much, or as little, as you want.