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Family: Cichlidae
Neolamprologus pulcherPhoto Animal-World: Courtesy Frank Schneidewind
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Very nice informative article - good writing! Anonymous
The Daffodil Cichlid is one of the most beautiful and hardy of the Tanganyika
Cichlids!
Contents:
Daffodil Cichlid Facts
Description
Aquarium Care
Aquarium Setup
Social Behaviors
Breeding / Reproduction
Fish Diseases
Availability
References
The Daffodil CichlidNeolamprologus pulcher(previously Lamprologus pulcher) is an ideal
cichlid or for any aquarist to keep. It is a hardy African cichlid with an elegant, graceful
appearance. The light tan body is is adorned with a lyre shaped tail and blue tipped fins
extending into with long flowing filaments. it is washed with hints of yellow and bluish
spots and has two crescents just behind bright icy blue eyes. It is also known as Daffodil
II, Daffodil Princess, and Princess of Zambia.
The Daffodil Cichlid is almost identical in appearance to its popular relative the Fairy
Cichlid Neolamprologus brichardi. However the Fairy Cichlid has bluish gray fins and can
be identified by the black stripe running from the eye to the gill cover and a yellow spot
just above it. These markings are absent in the Daffodil Cichlid though it has the two
crescent shaped markings behind the eye, and its fins are yellowish.
A school of these beautiful fish makes an elegant display. With its color, form and
adaptability, it is a great choice for both the beginner and advance aquarist. It is
moderately easy to care for as long it has the proper sized aquarium and the right tank
mates. They it will adapt to a wide range of water conditions and eat a wide variety of
aquarium foods.
This pretty cichlid is not shy about swimming out in the open. But they do like an
aquarium with lots of rock formations creating caves for retreating. A sandy substrate is
best because though they are not avid diggers, they may dig out spawning territories
around decor. Plants are not essential but if you should include them they won't harm
them.
These are a schooling fish that pair off only to breed, so are actually best kept in a group.
They are generally peaceful and non aggressive with their own kind. They are not
inclined to quarrel with others except when spawning, and then are very territorial. They
are best kept in a species tank, or a group of these fish can be kept in a good sized
aquarium with other similar types of Lamprologine Shell-dwellers. Other good tankmates
are a large school of Herring cichlids of the Cyprichromis genus like the Sardine
Cichlid Cyprichromis leptosoma, as well as the Goby Cichlids, Julidochromis species,
and Tropheus species.
Though the Daffodil Cichlids spend a good deal of their time spawning, they are a
secretive shelter spawner. You may not even know they have spawned until you see
small fry darting about. A pair of Daffodil Cichlids will spawn again and again. The older
fry will help protect the younger ones, thus various ages of fry will be present in the same
tank. This is an example of "stepped breeding".
Geographic Distribution
Neolamprologus pulcher
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Popular Searches
Beginner Fish - Freshwater fish for beginners
Community Fish - Peaceful Freshwater fish
Description
The Daffodil Cichlid is a graceful fish with a body that is elongated with a continuous
dorsal fin. The tail fin is lyre shaped and they develop long flowing filaments on all
unpaired fins. They reach up to about 4 - 5 inches (10 -13 cm) in length, but can
sometimes get a bit bigger in the aquarium reaching up to 6 inches (15 cm). They can
live 8 - 10 years with proper care.
They have a very pleasing coloration with a light colored tan body washed with hints of
yellow and bluish purple spots. The yellow is stronger along the upper portion of the body
and onto the dorsal fin, and around the base of the pectoral fin. There are two vertical
crescent shaped bars just behind the eye highlighted with a bit of blue. The dorsal fin is
lyre shaped and they develop long flowing filaments on all unpaired fins. The fins are
tipped with an icy blue. They have brilliant blue eyes.
Size of fish - inches: 5.1 inches (13.00 cm) - In the wild they grows to a length of
4 - 5" (10-13 cm), and are generally larger specimens in home aquaria.
Lifespan: 8 years - They have a lifespan of 8 to 10 years with proper care.
Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day - Offer several small feedings a
day, what they can eat in about 3 minutes or less, rather than a single large feeding.
Aquarium Care
The Lake Tanganyika cichlids cannot handle large water changes very well unless the
new water chemistry closely matches the water they are in. This inability to tolerate large
water changes is due to Lake Tanganyika being very deep and the water tends to stay
stable. Do normal water changes of only 10% to 20% a week, or more frequent small
changes depending on the nitrite/ammonia levels and stocking numbers.
Aquarium Setup
The Daffodil Cichlid is active and will swim in all areas of the aquarium. For a species
only tank, a minimum of 15 gallons is suggested, though 20 or 35 gallons is better. A
larger tank of 50 gallons or more would be required if mixing with other species. They
need good water movement along with very strong and efficient filtration. Lake
Tanganyika is a very oxygen rich lake so bubblers need to be going day and night, even
if there are plants. Regularly check nitrates and ph, nitrates should be no more than 25
ppm and a pH less than 7 is not tolerated. In addition keep an eye on total hardness and
carbonate hardness. Avoid overfeeding and overstocking.
Lake Tanganyika is the second to largest lake in the world, thus contributing to a low
fluctuation in temperature and pH. All Tanganyika cichlids need stable temperatures kept
within acceptable limits and lots of oxygen to survive. Temperatures under 72 F and
over 86 F for too long is not tolerated by many of these fish. When treating for ich, a few
days at 86 F is acceptable. The lake is also consistently alkaline with a pH of around 9,
and very hard at about 12 - 14 dGH. In the aquarium most Tanganyika cichlids are fairly
adaptable as long as conditions are close to these ideal ranges. Most important is that
their water chemistry doesn't change much over time. The water needs to be well
buffered and maintained with small, regular water changes.
Salt is sometimes used as a buffering agent to increase the water's carbonate hardness.
An alternative buffering approach is to use a chemical filtration method, where they water
passes through layers of crushed coral or coral sand. Interestingly, Tanganyikan cichlids
also need iodine for the thyroid to function properly to regulate growth and development,
and which can be achieved by adding iodized table salt to the water. Although rift lake
cichlids need hard alkaline water they are not found in brackish waters. This cichlid has
some salt tolerance so can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it not
suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of a normal
saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002.
Provide a sandy or very small sized gravel substrate. Sand used for salt water tanks can
help keep the pH up as well as the addition of crushed coral. Crushed coral and
aragonite sands do tend to dissolve easier than salts. They need a lot of rocks piled up to
create cave formations. Plants are not essential though they do not harm them. They
don't tend to burrow unless they are digging out a spawning sight around the decor.
Subdued lighting is also preferred.
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gal (57 L) - A minimum of 15 gallons is the suggested for
a species tank, with 20 or 35 gallons being better, and 50 gallons or more is needed for
mixing species.
Suitable for Nano Tank: Sometimes - A larger nano tank of 15 gallons or more,
can be used for a species only aquarium.
Substrate Type: Sand/Gravel Mix
Range ph: 8.0-8.5 - Wild caught specimens prefer the higher Ph.
Water Region: All - These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium.
Social Behaviors
The Daffodil Cichlid is a fairly non-aggressive community fish. They can be kept in pairs
or singly, or in harems that form a group of 6 or more. They can be kept in a smaller
species only tank or in a larger aquarium with other durable fish. However they are avid
spawners and breeding pairs will establish a territory and defended it together. This fish
is also very protective in defending their fry.
If kept in a community type environment it is best to introduce the this cichlid last. The
tank mates need to be larger with their own established territories. Avoid housing them
with the African cichlids from Lake Malawi or Lake Victoria. They may tolerate their own
genus, but this is not suggested since hybrids can be formed. They can be housed with
robust Lamprologines or a large school of Cyprichromis, like the Sardine
Cichlid Cyprichromis leptosoma. Other good tankmate are some of
the Altolamprologus genera such as the White Pearly Calvus and the Compressed
Cichlid, and the Julidochromis genera such as Dickfeld's Julie and the Convict Julie.
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Compatible with:
Plants: Safe
Breeding / Reproduction
The Daffodil Cichlids have been bred in captivity and are easy to breed. They are egg
layers and form nuclear families. Considered a monogamous cichlid, they will pair up
only during spawning and will school otherwise. They will often breed in a community
tank. It is suggested to start with a group let them pair up. Condition them with a good
varied diet.
The breeding tank should be at least 36 inches (91 cm) long, or bigger if you have a
larger group to provide sufficient territories among rocks or inverted flowerpots. The
breeding tank should have neutral, medium hard to hard water with to a pH of around 7.5
- 8.5, 10 - 20 dGH, and a temperature at about 77 F (25 C) or slightly higher.
The female prefers spawning in caves or sometimes in areas with rocky rubble where
they will dig a spawning site next to the decor. The female will lay up to 100 eggs. These
cichlids will fiercely defend the eggs and spawn site. The fry will emerge after about 6 - 7
days, and are then essentially on their own. The free swimming fry can be fed newly
hatch brine shrimp and crushed flakes, and they will grow pretty quickly. See the
description of breeding monogamous cichlids in: Breeding Freshwater Fish: Cichlids.
Fish Diseases
Daffodil Cichlids are fairly hardy in a properly maintained aquarium. These cichlids are
susceptible to typical fish ailments, especially if water is stale and of poor quality and
oxygenation. One common problem is Ich. It can be treated with the elevation of the tank
temperature to 86 F (30 C) for 3 days. If that does not cure the Ich, then the fish needs
to be treated with copper (remove any water conditioners). Several copper based fish
medications are available for Ich. Copper use must be kept within the proper levels, so
be sure to follow the manufacturers suggestions. A copper test also can be used to keep
the proper levels. You can also combine increasing the temperature with an Ich
medication treatment. All Tanganyikan cichlids need iodine for the thyroid to function
properly to regulate growth and development, if levels are low it can be remedied by
adding iodized table salt to the water (approximately 1 teaspoon per gallon of water).
As with most fish they are susceptible to skin flukes and other parasitic infestations
(protozoa, worms, etc.), fungal infections, and bacterial infections. It is recommended to
read up on the common tank diseases. Knowing the signs and catching and treating
them early makes a huge difference. For information about freshwater fish diseases and
illnesses, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.
Availability
The Daffodil Cichlid is available from time to time and can be moderate to moderately
expensive. They are found both online and in fish stores and range in price depending on
whether they are juveniles or adults.
References
Animal-World References: Freshwater Fish and Plants
Dr. R?diger Riehl and Hans A. Baensch, Aquarium Atlas Vol. 3 , Voyageur Press,
1996
Mark Phillip Smith, Lake Tanganyika Cichlids, A Complete Pet Owners Manual,
2nd Edition, Barron's Educational Series, Inc. 2007
George Zurlo, David Schleser, Cichlids (Complete Pet Owner's Manual), Barron's
Edu Series, 2005
Comments
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Anonymous - 2010-02-01
Very nice informative article - good writing!
Stuart -
2014-12-12
Hi I am new here but this is normal Cichlid stress don't worry lots oh hiding places plants caves best with plastic plants
as they dig around in the gravel a lot
Reply
kal - 2013-04-09
I just got 4 of these cichlids and they seem to be very scared every time I walk up to the tank they run and
hide is that normal.
Jeremy Roche -
2013-04-10