The bay dazzles on a calm autumn day © Sarah Reid

Known as Cavanbah in the Bundjalung language of its Traditional Owners (or more accurately Gabanbaa, as Aunty Delta Kay will tell you on her fascinating Cape Byron tour), Byron Bay is a special place. Sure, this NSW north coast holiday spot has changed dramatically from the sleepy surf town I grew up in, but you needn't spend long here to discover that the magic that first drew surfers here in the ‘60s, then my own parents in the late ‘70s, is still very much alive.

After leaving Byron in my teens to study in Sydney and work around the world, I feel lucky to call this beautiful corner of Australia my home base again between work trips. From old favourites to new openings, here’s my round-up of all things awesome in Byron, with a focus on positive-impact businesses and experiences.

Byron’s best coffee and brunch spots

There is no shortage of great coffee spots in Byron, but my go-tos for coffee and brunch are Bayleaf and Folk (sister-cafe Woods in Bangalow is also worth checking out). Three Blue Ducks at The Farm is another popular brunch option, particularly for families. TopShop is great for a casual acai bowl or halloumi burger with your caffeine hit, and in the Arts & Industry Estate, I love meeting mates for coffee at Barrio or Vagabond in the Habitat complex.

Five kilometres south of town, Suffolk Bakery makes the best sausage (and vegan) rolls in town. For smoothies, try Bare Blends in the Arts & Industry Estate.

Bayleaf’s scrambled special never gets old © Sarah Reid

Where to go for lunch

In Byron, Indigenous-run Karkalla is my new favourite spot for a sit-down lunch; native ingredients star on its menu. Crystalbrook Byron is another great spot for a smart-casual lunch showcasing local produce, with a 15% discount for locals (show your ID to get a local’s card). I was also fan of Raes Cellar Bar until they dropped the snapper sandwich from the menu; I live in hope it returns.

If you've got wheels and the time for a lazy Byron hinterland lunch, book a table at The Hut, which celebrates Mediterranean flavours in a reimagined Possum Creek schoolhouse. Also only serving lunch in nearby Nashua is Frida’s Field, where the kitchen is now helmed by Alastair Waddell, formerly of Harvest Newrybar, a long-time farm-to-table fine dining fave. For relaxed Japanese-Australian fusion, Federal’s Doma is where its at; top it off with a gelato from the Benilato cart.

Over in Brunswick Heads, Bruns Bakery (run by the same folks behind Suffolk Bakery) is a good spot to grab lunch on-the-go. And down in Lennox, Shelter offers the best-value lunch special in the region. You haven’t lived until you’d tried their stracciatella with finger lime, pickles and chilli oil.

Up the coast, new favourites include No. 35 Kitchen & Bar in Cabarita for to-die(t)-for Italian, and Tweed River House in Murwillumbah for a memorable two-, three- or five-course affair. But you can’t leave the Tweed without a meal at coastal fine diner Pipit in Pottsville – which has pivoted like a boss in the COVID era – to continue feeding the community during lockdowns.

Doma’s tempura prawn salad is well worth the drive to Federal © Sarah Reid

Dinnertime wins

Byron’s nighttime dining scene has vastly improved in recent years thanks to newer openings including the aforementioned Karkalla, and Oma for fancy share plates by the Three Blue Ducks gang matched with wines wines by female producers. Now a Byron institution, Bang Bang turns out the tasty pan-Asian plates in town, Il Buco serves the best wood-fired pizzas this side of Naples, and Yulli’s does epic Asian vegan food. No Bones is also a great plant-based option.

There are more than half a dozen Mexican joints in the shire these days, and La Casita in Brunswick Heads throws shade on them all – which shouldn’t be surprising given it’s run by same folks as two-hatted Bruns fine diner Fleet.

The Rails used to have the best pub grub in town, until new management changed (read: ruined) the menu, so The Park Hotel (aka the Suffo Pub) is now the best place to go for a casual feed. And while Earth ‘n’ Sea’s current home gets a 0 for character, they still pump out the best wholemeal pizzas you've ever tasted.

As for quick bites, Chihuahua Taqueria in the Feros Arcade does great fish tacos, and Orgasmic Food in Bay Ln makes legendary falafel pockets. And it’s a big call, but even Turkey’s top kebab slingers aren’t a match for Bay Kebabs.

Ride the Byron Solar Train to the Arts & Industry Estate © Sarah Reid

Where to drink

Natural wine bar Supernatural Cellars is the best thing that has ever happened to Byron’s drinking scene, and it’s still going strong under new management. Tasty share plates are also served, and it has a happy hour from 4-6pm daily. Other places that have a good happy hour include Mez Club, Balcony and Miss Margs.

The Rails has always been the locals’ pub, particularly on a Friday evening, when there’s usually a meat tray up for grabs. On a sunny weekend afternoon, however, an outdoor table at The Beach Hotel is the place to be.

In Bay Lane, ‘80s dive bar-esque Spott is a newer option for a nightcap, but their scented candles are too overpowering to keep me there for long.

If you’re partial to a brewery tour, Stone & Wood in the Arts & Industry Estate hosts a great one, or you can just come for a beer. While you’re in the neighbourhood, drop into The Bucha Shed, Australia’s first alcoholic kombucha taproom, and Lord Byron Distillery, which recently opened a fab new distillery door and tiki bar. Just out of town, Cape Byron Distillery tours kick off with a G&T.

Where to stay

If I could choose anywhere to stay in Byron (aside from, ahem, the cosy room in my own beachside flat that I Airbnb), it’s a tough choice between the two most eco-conscious hotels in town, Crystalbrook Byron (formerly the Byron at Byron resort), nestled in a rainforest near Suffolk Park; and New York-inspired The Bower on Bangalow Rd. The Elements of Byron resort in Belongil is also lovely, and I was delighted to learn on a recent press visit that they had ditched plastic bottles in the guest rooms. Right in town, nautical-themed The Atlantic Byron Bay is currently building a new beach house worth keeping an eye on.

If you want your own place near the water, the six self-catering cottages managed by The National Parks and Wildlife Service are hard to beat for location and atmosphere. Choose from two assistant Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottages, or roll out of bed for a morning swim at one of four properties nestled by the beach between Captain Cooks and The Pass – two of which might not be around for much longer due to ongoing dune erosion.

If you prefer Airbnb, you can help to ensure locals aren’t missing out on affordable housing by opting for private rooms (like mine) rather than entire properties. Camping? Clarke’s Beach Caravan Park with its leafy seaside setting is the pick of Byron’s campgrounds. Note that camping or sleeping in your car is illegal in Byron’s streets and reserves.

Gorgeous places to stay abound in the Byron hinterland, including Blackbird Byron in the Mullumbimby hinterland, where I recently enjoyed a relaxing little staycation.

Crystalbrook Byron is tucked within a subtropical rainforest with its own beach access © Sarah Reid

Where to shop

Despite most of Byron’s homegrown boutiques having been pushed out of Jonson St by chain brands that can afford the ever-increasing rents, Byron’s fashion and design scene is flourishing. In town, I love Rowie for womenswear, Citizen Nomade for minimalist womenswear, and Nikau for indoor plants and ceramics. Famous for their feminine dresses, Spell and Auguste are also known for their efforts to make their labels more sustainable.

An increasing number of mindful brands have opened up shop in the Arts & Industry Estate in recent years. In the Habitat precinct, profits from stores in the Habitat Collective support Byron’s homeless, which is such an important initiative in a town with one of the highest homeless rates in the state. High-end activewear label Nagnata, womenswear and shoe brand St Agni and the curated womenswear and accessories purveyor Del Rainbow also have solid sustainability cred, St Agni. Beachwear brand Zulu and Zephyr is also focused on moving forward with sustainability at the helm.

As for markets, the Byron Markets are held on the first Sunday of every month in town. On Thursday mornings, the Cavanbah Centre hosts the Byron Farmers Market. During daylight savings, there's also the Byron Artisan Market (with food stalls) held in the Railway Park on Saturday evenings.

If you’re hinterland-bound, don’t miss the Station Street retail complex in Bangalow, which has another Rowie store. Bring some small change to pick up organic fruit, veg, honey, coffee and more at the many roadside food stalls that dot the hills. Back in Byron, stock up on delish natural wines at Luna Wine Store.

The Byron region is also home to a plethora of amazing environmentally-friendly and socially conscious online brands that don’t have physical stores. A few of my favourites include veg-tanned leather handbag label Balincourt, Sit Still Lauren’s beautiful ceramics, and Wild Search Australia’s natural, plastic-free body products.

The Pass has a legendary right-hander…just not today © Sarah Reid

Where to hit the beach

Sweeping east from Belongil (the only beach in town where you can take your fur baby), Byron’s main arc of beach becomes The Wreck just north of Byron’s public pool. Continuing east you hit Main Beach, which merges into erosion-challenged Clarkes, Captain Cooks, and then The Pass with its epic headland lookout and famously long right-handers that peel across the bay. The next beach along is Wategos (another great longboard wave and Byron’s best beachside BBQ spot), with Little Wategos (accessible by walking track) at the tip of the cape. On the other side of the headland, wild Tallow Beach stretches south to Suffolk Park and Broken Head.

Wategos and Captain Cooks are generally the best beaches for swimming (except when a northerly is blowing, when it’s best to head to Cosy Corner at Tallow Beach). On calm days, grab a snorkel and head out from the remains of the old jetty at Main Beach to look for turtles and wobbegongs around the wreck of the Tassie III, about 100m offshore.

Where to have more fun in or on the water

Byron has two dive centres, which also run snorkelling tours. I got my OWD ticket with Byron Bay Dive Centre, but I hear good things about Sundive too. The water is pretty chilly in winter, but this is the best time to spot grey nurse sharks. You might see whales on the boat ride out to the Julian Rocks dive site during winter, too.

If you prefer to stay on top of the water, Cape Byron Kayaks and Go Sea Kayak operate mobile offices behind Clarkes Beach. If you’re lucky, you might spot whales on a kayaking trip. For a closer look, go whale watching with Byron Bay Whale Watching.

You can also explore the idyllic Brunswick River cruise with Byron Bay Eco Cruises & Kayaks, one of the region’s top ecotourism operators.

Immerse yourself in the rainforest on the Minyon Falls Loop © Sarah Reid

Top walks and hikes

The 3.7km Cape Byron walking track that loops around the headland is one of Australia’s most spectacular coastal walks, with wallaby and dolphin sightings de rigeur. From June to October, it’s also one of the best places in the country to view migrating whales.

Book in for a walking tour of Cape Byron with Arakwal woman Delta Kay of Explore Byron Bay, who will teach you fascinating stories about Aboriginal history and culture in the area. Aunty Delta also leads a walking tour on the Three Sisters Walking Track (2.6m return) at Broken Head.

If you’re a keen bushwalker, there are some gorgeous walks in Nightcap National Park, around 30km west of Byron, including the beautiful Minyon Falls walking track (13km return) which takes you past the base of the 100m-high Minyon Falls. For the best chance of spotting wildlife in the area, sign up for a tour with ecotourism operator Vision Walks Eco-Tours; I’ve done Wendy’s Night Vision Walk, and I saw loads of nocturnal critters.

Wellness options

Of the gamut of wellness options available in the Byron area, my personal go-tos are Creature Yoga in the Arts & Industry Estate for challenging vinyasa, Jaz Ellery from Live Laugh Lunge for personal training, and Nimbus Co for infrared sauna sessions.

For massages and facials, I love that Crystalbrook Byron’s Eléme Day Spa offers 15% off for locals, and uses Australia’s own natural Sodashi products. I’m also a big fan of Byron’s new-ish Endota Spa, which uses its own eco-friendly products, and runs some admirable social impact initiatives, like supporting Indigenous artisans. For a treat, head to Olivia Newton-John's Gaia Retreat and Spa up in the hinterland. I had one of the best massages of my life there, and their Retreatment Botanics products are divine.

Just another Byron Bay sunset © Sarah Reid

Other fun stuff to do

Byron is home to the world's first solar-powered train, which runs between the centre of town and the Arts & Industry Estate. It costs $5 each way, and makes for a handy transport option if you’re planning to have a few drinks out there.

One of the best ways to explore the Byron hinterland is on an e-bike tour with Beyond Byron E-Bikes; I’ve done their Unicorn Falls tour and the scenery is just incredible – I’ve driven these country roads before but it’s a completely different experience on an e-bike.

While Covid times have shaken up Byron’s festival calendar, the usual line-up includes music fests (Bluesfest, Splendour in the Grass, Falls Festival) cultural events (Byron Bay Writers Festival, Byron Bay International Film Festival, Byron Surf Festival), holistic gatherings (Byron Spirit Festival, Evolve Yoga Festival) and food fests (Sample Festival), with lots of smaller events in between. The Byron Community Centre also host film screenings, author talks, and other events throughout the year.

Finally, if you're a local looking for a place to work, consider joining the waitlist for a long-term desk at co-working hub The Corner Palm. You can also work for free in the Byron Bay Library; the attached Lone Goat Gallery hosts some excellent exhibitions.

Whatever you get up to in Byron, please tread lightly on our beautiful backyard.

This article was originally published in September 2016, and was last updated in September 2021. This article may contain affiliate links from which I earn a small commission, at zero cost to you.