An Introduction to Aquascaping

AQUASCAPING

AN INTRODUCTION TO AQUASCAPING

Hi there, my name is Rachael and I'm passionate about aquascaping. I believe that everyone can have a beautiful piece of nature in their homes without it being costly or complicated. For the past three years, I've kept low-energy aquariums and I've learned a lot along the way.

In this booklet, I'll be sharing my knowledge to make it easy for anyone to create and maintain an aquarium. I'm not a professional, so there may be better ways to do things and I welcome any suggestions. I aim to answer all the questions I had as a beginner and help others get into this beautiful hobby.

WHAT IS AQUASCAPING?

Aquascaping involves arranging aquatic plants, rocks, stones, driftwood, and other decorations in an aquarium to create a visually pleasing underwater landscape that mimics natural environments like forests, mountain ranges, and riverbeds.

HEALTH BENEFITS

Research has shown that simply watching fish swim around in an aquarium can significantly reduce stress and anxiety levels. This calming effect can also positively impact your physical health by lowering blood pressure, heart rate, and even the risk of developing cardiovascular disease.

Furthermore, observing fish can have a profound psychological impact, resulting in a better mood and reduced symptoms of depression. This sense of relaxation can contribute to overall mental health and well-being. Additionally, taking care of an aquarium can foster a sense of responsibility and accomplishment, so having an aquarium can be a great addition to any health and wellness routine!

IS SETTING UP AN AQUARIUM DIFFICULT?

Not necessarily! Setting up an aquarium can be simple and easy with the right knowledge and tools. It's important to choose the right sized tank for the fish you want to keep and ensure that you have the proper filtration, a heater if needed and lighting. It's also important to cycle the tank to establish beneficial bacteria before adding fish.

HIGH TECH VS LOW TECH

Aquarium setups can be divided into two categories: high tech and low tech. High tech setups use advanced equipment like CO2 injectors, advanced lighting systems, and automated water testing and dosing systems. They are more expensive and require more maintenance, but they support a wider range of aquatic plant and animal species and create a more vibrant and complex ecosystem.

Low tech setups, on the other hand, are simpler and rely on natural or ambient lighting, low-maintenance aquatic plants, and minimal equipment. They are generally less expensive and easier to maintain, but may not support as wide a variety of species or create as complex an ecosystem. Ultimately, the choice between high tech and low tech depends on personal preference and the types of aquatic life one wants to keep.

DANGERS OF AMMONIA

Ammonia from fish waste, uneaten food, and decaying plants is toxic to aquatic life. It can cause lethargy, loss of appetite, respiratory problems, and skin and gill burns. Monitor ammonia levels in aquariums and reduce them with water changes, avoiding overfeeding, not overstocking, and adding beneficial bacteria.

HOW TO CYCLE AN AQUARIUM?

To cycle an aquarium, you will need to establish beneficial bacteria in the tank that can break down fish waste and other organic matter and convert it into less harmful substances. Here are the steps to cycle an aquarium:

þ Add a source of ammonia to the tank. The easiest way is by adding fish food to the tank. Alternatively, you can use ammonia drops, you should aim for a concentration of 2 ppm (parts per million) of ammonia.

þ Monitor the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in the tank. You can use a test kit to measure these levels.

þ After a few days, you should start to see the ammonia level drop and nitrite levels rise. This means that the beneficial bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite are starting to establish themselves.

þ Over the next few weeks, the nitrite levels will start to drop, and the nitrate levels will start to rise, indicating that the beneficial bacteria that convert nitrite to nitrate are becoming established.

þ Once the nitrite levels have dropped to zero and the nitrate levels are present, the aquarium is fully cycled, and it is safe to add fish.

þ Remember to test the water regularly, and perform partial water changes when necessary to keep the water free of pollutants.

BENEFITS OF USING LIVE PLANTS

Live plants offer many benefits to an aquarium. They provide oxygen to the water, absorb nitrates and other pollutants, and create a natural and beautiful environment for your aquatic pets.

Aquatic plants can help regulate pH levels by taking up carbon dioxide (CO2) during photosynthesis, which can decrease the acidity (increase pH) of the water. They release oxygen (O2) as a by-product, which can enhance the aquarium’s oxygen level.

In addition, live plants can help reduce algae growth by competing for nutrients with algae. Overall, having live plants in an aquarium can help create a healthier and more aesthetically pleasing ecosystem for your aquatic pets and they can provide shelter and hiding places for fish and other creatures.

SHOULD YOU USE AQUASOIL, SAND OR GRAVEL IN AN AQUARIUM?

The type of aquarium you want to set up and the plants and fish you plan to keep will determine the best substrate for you. If you plan on having a planted aquarium, Aquasoil is a great option as it contains nutrients that promote plant growth, it also helps to buffer the water and stabilise the pH at around 7.0.

Sand is a good choice for bottom-dwelling fish like corydoras.

Gravel can be used in various aquariums, but it’s important to choose a size that won’t allow waste to accumulate between the rocks. Ultimately, it’s up to you to choose the substrate that best meets your needs.

BENEFITS OF AQUASOIL

Aquasoil is a widely-used substrate for planted aquariums. It is composed of volcanic ash and clay, which gives it a high concentration of essential minerals and nutrients that are beneficial for aquatic plants. Here are some of the advantages of using aqua soil in your aquarium:

þ Nutrient-rich: Aquasoil has all the vital nutrients that plants require to flourish, including nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium.

þ pH-lowering: Aquasoil has a natural ability to decrease the pH of aquarium water, making it an ideal choice for fish and plants that prefer slightly acidic water.

þ Softens water: Aquasoil helps to soften hard water, which is advantageous for fish and plants that come from soft water environments.

þ Promotes root growth: The porous texture of aqua soil provides better root growth, which enables plants to absorb more nutrients and grow faster.

þ Enhances colour: Aquasoil can enhance the colour of plants, making them appear more vibrant and healthy.

If you want to create a thriving planted aquarium, aqua soil can be an excellent investment, although it can be expensive. It will help ensure that your plants receive the best possible start and nourishment to survive in the long run.

WHAT ARE GH, PH AND KH?

KH stands for carbonate hardness, which refers to the level of carbonate and bicarbonate ions in water. It is also known as alkalinity. KH is important because it helps stabilise pH levels in aquariums and helps to prevent pH swings, it binds with acids in the water to increase the pH level and prevent it from dropping too low which in turn could be harmful to fish and other aquatic life.

pH, on the other hand, is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of water. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. A pH below 7 is considered acidic, while a pH above 7 is considered alkaline. In aquariums, pH levels should be carefully monitored and maintained within a suitable range for the fish and other aquatic life.

GH stands for general hardness, which refers to the level of dissolved minerals, such as calcium and magnesium, in water. GH is important because it affects the overall health and growth of aquatic life. It can also impact the ability of the water to support plants and other organisms.

DO YOU NEED CO2?

Well... yes and no.

Carbon dioxide (CO2) is an essential component for plant growth in aquariums. Plants require CO2 to carry out photosynthesis, which is the process by which plants create energy from sunlight.

Without enough CO2, aquarium plants may not grow effectively. It’s important to maintain proper levels of CO2 in an aquarium as an excess of it can be harmful to the fish.

This booklet will primarily focus on Low Tech/ Energy Aquariums and provide you with the necessary knowledge to create a beautiful planted aquarium without CO2.

So now you know the basics, ready to build your Low Tech Aquarium!

SUBSTRATE SYSTEMS

Aquasoils are a popular choice for planted aquarium substrates, with several brands available on the market. The differences between these brands are mainly due to their composition, texture, and nutrient content.

For instance, ADA Aquasoil is nutrientrich with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which promotes healthy plant growth, is ideal for high-energy scapes with demanding plants, and provides nutrition for a long time.

Tropica Aquarium Soil is great for beginners and one that I favour for lowenergy scapes as it doesn't have quite as much nutrition but still promotes the good plant growth and the growth of beneficial bacteria in the substrate.

Other factors such as grain size, colour, and pH buffering capacity can also vary among different brands of aqua soils.

FILTRATION

Keeping your aquarium clean and healthy requires proper filtration. Depending on the size and type of your aquarium, as well as the species of fish and other aquatic creatures you have, there are several filtration options to consider.

CANISTER FILTERS

A canister filter is an aquarium filter that is usually positioned outside the tank, it utilizes a sealed container or canister that contains different sorts of filter media, including mechanical, biological, and chemical filtration. The filter pumps water into it, cleans it, and then sends it back into the aquarium. Canister filters are popular among aquarium enthusiasts due to their excellent filtration capabilities, effectiveness, and silent operation.

INTERNAL FILTER

An internal fish filter is a filter designed to clean an aquarium from inside the tank. It does this by removing waste, excess food, and other debris, which helps to keep the water clean and clear. The filter works by drawing water through a cartridge or sponge, trapping impurities, and allowing clean water to flow back into the tank. This filter type is ideal for smaller tanks or those with limited space because it doesn't take up much room. Moreover, it can provide additional aeration and circulation for the fish.

FILTER-LESS

WHAT IS THE NITROGEN CYCLE?

In all aquariums, the nitrogen cycle occurs as a natural process. This process involves the conversion of ammonia from fish waste and other organic matter to nitrite and eventually to nitrate, which is less harmful to fish.

The cycle usually starts when fish are introduced into a new aquarium. As fish produce waste and other organic matter, bacteria in the aquarium break it down into ammonia. Because ammonia is highly toxic to fish, it's crucial to closely monitor ammonia levels and keep them as low as possible.

Nitrosomonas, a group of bacteria, then converts ammonia into nitrite, which is also toxic to fish. But another group of bacteria known as Nitrobacter converts nitrite into nitrate, which is less harmful to fish.

Nitrate levels can accumulate over time and can only be removed from the aquarium through regular water changes.

In conclusion, the nitrogen cycle is a vital process for maintaining a healthy and balanced aquarium environment. It's essential to keep an eye on ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels.

LIGHTING

In low-energy set-ups, we avoid relying on high-intensity lighting or CO2 to grow plants. Instead, we aim for moderate lighting to grow plants that fall into the easy to medium category.

This approach minimizes the need for excess nutrition. When there are excess free nutrients in the substrate, they may leach into the water and cause algae growth or worsen existing algae issues.

A filter-less aquarium can be a great option if you're looking for a lowmaintenance setup. Instead of a traditional filter system, you'll rely on live plants and natural bacteria to keep the water clean and healthy for your aquatic friends. Fast-growing plants are key to success, it's also important to avoid overstocking your tank and to perform regular water changes to ensure a healthy environment. I would only advise this method when you are more familiar with what goes into keeping an aquarium healthy and stable.

To help get this started, you can use bottled Beneficial Bacteria such as Seachem Stability which is designed to help establish the nitrogen cycle in aquariums. It contains a blend of beneficial bacteria that can quickly colonize and help to reduce the levels of harmful ammonia and nitrite in the water.

EQUIPMENT

THE NITROGEN CYCLE IS ESSENTIAL FOR MAINTAINING A HEALTHY ECOSYSTEM IN YOUR AQUARIUM.

THE TANK

Nano aquariums are smaller in size, generally anything up to 60cm wide is considered nano, making them perfect for those with limited space or who want a smaller number of fish. Compared to larger aquariums, they can be easier to maintain and may require less equipment.

Although nano aquariums are popular, their smaller volume of water is thought to make it challenging to maintain stable water chemistry. In case of any issues, you have less time to act. However, with the right knowledge, it is easy to provide a safe and stable home for your aquatic creatures and shouldn’t be a cause for concern.

On the other hand, ‘regular’ aquariums are larger and can hold a higher volume of water. They may require more equipment such as larger filters and more substrate, and potentially more maintenance, but they offer greater diversity in terms of the types and number of fish and plants that you can keep.

HARD SCAPE

Once you have determined your equipment and chosen your preferred substrate, it's time to move on to the exciting part - the hardscape!

Aquarium hardscape has numerous benefits, such as enhancing the natural appearance of the aquarium. Elements like rocks, driftwood, and stones can create a realistic aquatic environment. Hardscape elements also provide shelter for fish and other aquatic creatures, making them feel secure. Additionally, hardscape elements add depth and texture to the aquarium, making it more dynamic and visually interesting. They can also support the growth of aquatic plants, providing a substrate for them to grow on and promoting a healthy and thriving aquatic ecosystem. Overall, hardscape elements make the aquarium more visually appealing and biologically diverse, which will be enjoyed by both you and your fish.

PRODUCTS USED IN THE IMAGE

Substrate: Tropica Soil, Tropica Powder

Wood: Gnarled Manzanita Wood

Main Stone: Elderly Stone

Detail Stones: Dennerle Plantahunter Natural Gravel Rio

Xingu, Wio. Eco Elderly Gravel, Hugo Kamishi Natural Fine

Gravel

Sand: Wio.Eco Heaven Sand

Aquarium: All Pond Solutions 60cm Ultra Clear Glass Fish Tank - 90L 60 x 40 x40cm

Light: Twinstar C Line

POPULAR WOODS

Redmoor root wood is a beautiful and durable natural wood. It features intricate branching patterns and a unique reddish-brown color. As a hardwood, it lasts long and doesn’t decompose easily in water. Soak it in water for a few days to reduce the risk of any fungus affecting water quality.

Bogwood is a popular material for creating natural-looking aquariums. It also releases tannins for black water setups.

Manzanita Wood A more expensive wood known for its beautiful reddish-brown color and unique, twisted shapes.

POPULAR ROCKS

Lava rock is a great choice for landscaping as it is lightweight and porous. It’s a classic option that provides a striking contrast to green plants.

Seriyu stone AKA ryuoh stone, one of the most popular rocks in aquascaping. With tones of grey with nice textures it looks great in any type of scape from simplistic iwagumis to nature style aquariums.Note, it can harden the water.

River stones are a cost-effective way to enhance the natural features of your aquarium, perfect for biotype and riverbed style setups.

CHOOSING A LAYOUT/STYLE

Aquascaping is an art form that involves designing and arranging aquatic plants, rocks, and other materials to create stunning underwater landscapes.

There are several popular styles, each with its own unique characteristics and aesthetic. These include the Nature Aquarium style, which mimics natural environments with a variety of plants and hardscape materials; the minimalist Iwagumi style, which uses only a few carefully placed rocks to create a balanced composition; the colorful and densely planted Dutch Style; the Biotope style, which recreates specific natural environments with fish and other aquatic life; and the lush and chaotic Jungle style, which features a large number of plants arranged in a dense and overgrown manner.

PLACEMENT

When it comes to deciding what looks good to you, it’s important to follow your own preferences. After all, you’re the one who will be looking at it every day. However, if you prefer a more methodical and guaranteed visually pleasing approach, there are two commonly used methods: the rule of thirds and the golden ratio.

In design, composition, and photography, the golden ratio and rule of thirds are principles used to create balanced and visually appealing images. The golden ratio is a mathematical concept that has been used in art and design for centuries. It can be found in natural forms like seashell spirals and tree branches. This proportion, represented by the number 1.618, is used in composition to create a harmonious balance and determine the ideal placement and size of different elements.

The rule of thirds is another principle that involves dividing an image into a grid of nine equal parts, both horizontally and vertically. The most important elements of the image should be placed along the lines or at their intersections, creating a visually pleasing and balanced composition. This principle is often used in photography to make dynamic and captivating images.

Both the golden ratio and the rule of thirds are valuable tools for creating visually appealing compositions. By employing these principles in your aquascape layout, you can create an aesthetically pleasing and balanced underwater landscape.

SECURING YOUR HARDSCAPE

The cotton and super glue method is a popular technique for securing hardscape materials in aquascaping, such as rocks, driftwood, and other decorations.

The cotton helps to absorb the glue and creates a strong bond between the hardscape material. Before using this method, it’s important to make sure that the glue you are using is safe for your aquatic animals and won’t harm them - Cyanoacrylate is considered safe, additionally, be sure to use only a minimal amount.

Place the cotton between the contact points and apply a small amount of glue. This will make maintenance easier as you won’t have to worry about accidentally knocking the hardscape. The bond should form almost immediately.

The glue can be used to attach epiphytic plants, but it is more effective to insert them into crevices.

THINGS TO CONSIDER

You’re going to have to maintain this aquarium, which includes cleaning filters and/or inlet/outlet pipes, scraping glass and trimming plants, it is important to strategically place your hardscape to make maintenance tasks easier.

PLANTS

For aquascaping enthusiasts, there are numerous options when it comes to aquatic plants. Some popular choices include Ferns, Java Moss, Anubias, Bucephalandra, Cryptocoryne, and Ludwigia, each with unique qualities that can enhance the beauty and balance of an aquascape. In-vitro cups are available for purchase, offering plants grown under lab conditions that are free of algae and pests and have a higher plant count. Alternatively, hydroponically grown plants, partially submerged, offer a fuller effect more quickly. For low energy aquariums, it’s recommended to use plants categorized as “Easy.”

TYPES OF PLANTS

Foreground plants: These are smaller plants that are perfect for the front of the aquarium. Some popular examples include Glossostigma elatinoides, Hemianthus callitrichoides and Monte Carlo.

Midground plants: These plants tend to be a bit taller than foreground plants and are great for creating depth and interest in the middle of the aquarium. Some popular midground plants include Anubias nana, Alternanthera reineckii and Pogostemon helferi.

Background plants: These plants are usually the tallest in the aquarium and are perfect for filling in the back of the tank. Some popular background plants include Vallisneria, Bacopa caroliniana and Rotala rotundifolia.

Mosses: Mosses are a great addition to any aquascape and can be used to create a carpet effect or to add texture and interest to hardscape elements like rocks and driftwood. Some popular mosses include Java Moss, Christmas Moss, and Flame Moss.

Stem plants: Stem plants are fast-growing and can be used to create a lush, jungle-like effect in your aquarium, these include plants such as Limnophila sessiliflora and Ludwgia Palustris

Epiphytes: These are plants that can attach to hardscape and add beautiful textures and details to your aquarium. They grow from a rhizome that should not be buried to prevent rotting. These plants, such as Bucephalandra and Anubias species, are typically hardy and can tolerate low light and low CO2 levels. However, they may be prone to rotting due to high ammonia levels, so it's best to add them once your tank has cycled to reduce the risk.

Floating: Adding floating plants to your low-tech aquarium is key to its success. These plants improve water quality by absorbing excess nutrients, such as nitrates and phosphates, which reduce algae growth and promote healthy plant growth. Additionally, they provide shelter and hiding places for fish and other aquatic organisms, reducing stress and improving overall well-being. Furthermore, floating plants diffuse light and provide shade, which can benefit certain types of aquarium plants and prevent algae growth.

Using tweezers to plant aquatic plants can be a helpful technique when dealing with small or delicate plants. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Select the plant you want to plant and prepare it by gently removing any excess soil, potting media or liquid media from the roots

2. Using a pair of tweezers, gently hold the plant by the base and roots without damaging them

3. Carefully insert the roots of the plant into the substrate, taking care to not puncture the roots

4. Release the plant and gently cover the roots with more substrate to anchor the plant in place if needed

5. Finally, add water to your aquarium, do this slowly and place a cup, bag or sponge underneath the impact point of the water, this should help minimise plants being uprooted and things getting displaced

Overall, using tweezers can be a useful tool when planting aquatic plants, especially for those with small or delicate roots. Just be sure to handle the plants with care and avoid damaging the roots during the planting process.

You may prefer planting into a dry substrate, alternatively, you can spray it down or part-fill your aquarium, experiment to find which method you prefer.

Anubias barteri - A hardy and easyto-grow plant with broad, dark green leaves. It does well in low to medium light and can tolerate a range of water conditions.

Staurogyne repens - This plant is an ideal choice for the foreground of your aquarium. It is a fresh green, compact, and hardy plant that was discovered in River Rio Cristalino in the Amazonas.

Amazon sword - (Echinodorus bleheri) This plant can grow quite large and is very hardy. It can grow in low to highlight conditions and can be a great centrepiece for your aquarium.

Cryptocoryne wendtii - This plant has wavy green leaves and low to medium light requirements. It's a slow grower, but easy to maintain and will add a nice touch to your aquarium.

Hygrophila polysperma - A fastgrowing plant with green leaves that can turn red under high light. It does well in low to high light and can tolerate a range of water conditions.

Limnobium laevigatum -This floating plant looks beautiful and provides protection for surface fish. It can also indicate the available nutrients in your aquarium by its colour.

Java fern (Microsorum pteropus) - A classic aquarium plant with long, narrow leaves that can be attached to rocks or driftwood. It's a slow grower, but very hardy and can tolerate a range of conditions.

Bacopa caroliniana - A stem plant with green or bronze leaves that can grow up to two feet in length. It does well in low to high light and can tolerate a range of water conditions.

Marsilea hirsuta - Marsilea hirsuta is a unique carpet-plant native to Australia. It is known for its captivating appearance, featuring leaves that resemble a four-leaf clover.

Sagittaria subulata - A grass-like plant with short, narrow leaves that can be used to create a carpet in your aquarium. It does well in low to medium light and can tolerate a range of water conditions.

Java moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri) - This plant is very easy to care for and can be attached to rocks or driftwood. It can grow in low to high-light conditions and does not require CO2 supplementation.

Bucephalandra ‘Kedagang’ Comes from Borneo, with dark green leaves that have white spots. The leaves can be up to 6 cm long and 1-2 cm wide. When underwater, they may have a blue metallic sheen.

STOCKING

CHOOSING YOUR FISH

It's important to research the care requirements of any fish you plan to purchase, including their diet, necessary water parameters, and tank size. This will help you provide a suitable environment for your new aquatic pets.

When selecting an aquarium, consider the size carefully, as this will determine how many fish you can keep and which species will be suitable.

Remember that larger fish require more swimming space and some species may need more room to establish their territory. It's crucial to choose fish that will get along with each other, as some can be aggressive and even kill others in the tank.

Start with a few fish and gradually add more to avoid disrupting the aquarium's ecosystem.

Finally, be sure to monitor the water parameters regularly, such as temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, to ensure a safe and healthy environment for your fish.

TROPICAL, COLDWATER OR TEMPERATE

Different types of fish require different water temperatures. Cold-water fish thrive in temperatures below 68°F (20°C), while tropical fish prefer temperatures between 75-80°F (24-27°C). Temperate fish have a wider range of temperature preferences, sometimes overlapping with the other categories. These are rough guides and you should always research each individual species you wish to keep.

NANO FISH

Small freshwater fish known as nano fish are a great choice for aquarium hobbyists. They usually grow up to 2.5 inches and are loved for their vibrant colours and ease of care. Some of the most popular nano fish species are chilli rasbora, celestial pearl danios, and guppies.

CLEAN-UP CREW

A clean-up crew for your aquarium is a team of small organisms that assist in maintaining a clean and healthy ecosystem by consuming waste, debris, and algae. These include Snails, Shrimp, Ottocinclus, and various algae eaters.

BETTA FISH

Betta fish are a common choice but many people have misconceptions about how to care for them properly, resulting in unhealthy living conditions. Here are some key tips for taking care of your betta fish:

Tank size: To ensure that your betta fish thrives, it needs at least 30 litres of water, preferably a wide tank to give them ample swimming room.

Temperature: As they are tropical fish, they require a heater to maintain a water temperature between 25.5-27.5°C.

Water quality: Betta fish produce a lot of waste, so it's important to keep their water clean. This can be achieved by performing a 25% to 50% water change every week and using a water conditioner to remove chlorine, chloramine, and heavy metals from tap water.

Flow: It is crucial to maintain a gentle flow and avoid using a filter that’s too strong. Their fins are extremely delicate, which can hinder their ability to swim and result in fin nipping.

Feeding: Bettas are carnivorous fish and require a protein-rich diet. Feed them high-quality pellets or flakes specifically made for bettas. Live foods such as brine shrimp, or daphnia are great additions to their diet. You can also give them freeze-dried or frozen bloodworms as a treat.

Enrichment: Betta fish are intelligent and require stimulation. Provide them with live plants, caves, and hiding places in their tank.

Monitoring: Keep an eye on your betta's behaviour and appearance. Look out for any signs of illness, such as lethargy or loss of appetite, unfortunatly due to overbreeding they are prone to some health issues.

MAIN TENA NCE

Caring for an aquarium can be an enjoyable and rewarding activity. It's crucial to establish a routine and adhere to it. Changing the water every week may not always be necessary, as it depends on the type of aquarium you have. If the water parameters are stable, simply topping off the evaporated water may suffice. However, if you fertilize your aquarium daily, it might be best to perform a weekly water change to reset the nutrient balance.

TIPS

þ Monitor water parameters: Regularly check the pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels to ensure they are at a healthy range.

þ Perform regular water changes: Depending on the size of your aquarium and the number of fish, you may need to change 30-50% of the water every week.

þ Clean filters: Keep the water clean and debris-free by cleaning or replacing the filter media every few months or when needed depending on the filter.

þ Feed your fish properly: Avoid overfeeding your fish, which can cause excess waste and poor water quality. Feed them once or twice a day with the appropriate amount of food.

þ Maintain proper lighting: Ensure that your aquarium has the appropriate amount of light for your plants and fish.

þ Keep the tank clean: Regularly clean the glass, pipework, and substrate to keep your aquarium looking great.

WATER CHANGES

To change the water in your aquarium, you will need a siphon hose or gravel vacuum, a clean bucket, and a water conditioner.

þ Prior to beginning, turn off any equipment that might be affected by the water level change, such as filters, heaters, and air pumps. To remove water from the aquarium, use the siphon hose to transfer it into a bucket.

þ Clean any debris from the bottom of the tank, gently waving your hands through the plants to loosen any dead leaves or trapped organic waste. While refilling the tank, add the appropriate amount of water conditioner to neutralize any harmful chemicals in the tap water.

þ Slowly refill the tank with fresh water at the correct temperature to avoid shocking the fish until it reaches the appropriate water level. Lastly, turn on any equipment that was turned off for the water change.

DE-CHLORINATOR

It's crucial to use an aquarium de-chlorinator to ensure the well-being of fish and other aquatic creatures in your aquarium. Tap water often contains chlorine, which can be harmful to these creatures. A de-chlorinator eliminates chlorine, chloramine, and other hazardous chemicals from tap water, making it suitable for aquatic life. Without a de-chlorinator, chlorine in tap water can harm fish gills, resulting in illness or death.

TRIMMING

Maintaining a healthy and aesthetically pleasing aquarium involves trimming the plants.

þ First, use a sharp pair of scissors to avoid damaging the plants. Next, identify the parts of the plant that need trimming, such as any dead or damaged leaves, overgrown stems, or shoots.

þ Carefully trim the dead or damaged leaves as close to the stem as possible without harming it. Also, cut back any overgrown stems or shoots to an appropriate length for your aquarium.

þ After trimming, remove any trimmings or dead leaves from the tank. These can decompose and contaminate the water.

With some practice, your stem plants will take shape and grow back more dense and bushier than before.

ALGAE

ALGAE

FERTILISER

Proper nutrients are necessary for aquatic plants to grow and flourish. To identify a nutrient deficiency in aquatic plants, watch out for these common signs: yellowing of leaves due to lack of nitrogen, which is necessary for chlorophyll production; stunted growth due to insufficient phosphorus, which is important for root growth and energy transfer; thin or brittle leaves caused by potassium deficiency, which regulates water within the plant; slow or no growth due to insufficient iron, which produces chlorophyll essential for photosynthesis; and wilting caused by lack of calcium, which is crucial for cell wall development and plant structure. If you suspect a nutrient deficiency, test your water for nutrient levels and adjust fertilization as needed.

Choose a fertilizer that contains both macro and micronutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, there are many allin-one products available that are ideal for beginners. It's crucial to follow the dosing instructions on the fertilizer package to avoid both over and under-fertilizing your aquarium. Keep a close eye on your plants to observe how they respond to the fertilizer. If they are thriving, you're doing a great job. However, if they show signs of stress or are not growing, you may need to adjust your fertilization routine.

If you have a low-energy aquascape, it may not require as many nutrients as a high-energy setup. This means you may not need to fertilize as frequently, or possibly not at all during the first few months. However, it's important to keep an eye on your plants for signs of nutrient deficiency. If you suspect they are lacking nutrients, you should take action to address the issue.

At some point, all tanks will experience algae growth, including diatom algae, which is commonly known as the "ugly phase". This usually occurs when setting up a new scape, but it's nothing to worry about. To manage it, ensure you perform regular water changes and manually remove any visible algae. Additionally, consider adding a clean-up crew to eat up the organic matter.

Aquariums can of course succumb to many different types of algae, each with its own cause. Let's look at some common types of aquarium algae and why they occur:

Green algae: This is the most common type of aquarium algae, caused by excess light or nutrients in the water.

Brown algae: Low light, low water flow, and excess nutrients cause this type of algae.

Blue-green algae: This type of algae is actually bacteria, and it's caused by low oxygen levels and excess nutrients in the water.

Black algae: Low levels of carbon dioxide in the water cause this type of algae, and it's often difficult to remove.

Red algae: High levels of phosphates in the water cause this type of algae, which can be tough to eliminate.

PREVENTION

You can prevent algae growth in your aquarium by maintaining proper lighting, water flow, and nutrient levels. Regular cleaning, water changes, and adding live plants can also help keep your aquarium healthy and free of algae.

Dealing with algae in aquariums can be complicated as each aquarium has its own unique ecosystem with different reasons and causes for algae and treatment plans. There is no one-size-fits-all solution for algae. However, the general consensus is that Lighting, Nutrition, and Carbon Availability need to be balanced for optimal results.

Water parameters can vary from town to town and can contribute to algae problems. To address this, it's best to test your tap water to determine its specific parameters. This information will help you effectively address any issues. For instance, my tap water has high levels of phosphate, so I use Seachem Phosguard in my filter to reduce these levels and minimize the likelihood of algae growth.

rescapes

I appreciate you taking the time to read this guide. My hope is that this booklet has been helpful and addressed any questions or concerns you had about setting up an aquarium. The aquarium hobby has a friendly community, and it has become increasingly popular, leading to more information and fantastic aquascaping specialist stores opening up. Along the way, I have had the pleasure of meeting and speaking with many knowledgeable people, and I am still learning.

I owe many thank you’s to several people, including the team at Horizon Aquatics, who (luckily) not only opened an incredible store near me, but also allowed me to

scape a tank in their gallery and hosted invaluable live workshops. Also, my friend and inspiration, George Farmer, encouraged me to visit the Tropica Greenhouses in Denmark and participate in a Tropica Live Workshop. Additionally, I regularly follow YouTubers like SerpaDesign, MJAquascaping, and Green Aqua to name a few which I highly recommend for information and inspiration.

On Instagram, there are hundreds of fantastic people always willing to offer help, and Ady Myers is another great guy and inspiration who is always willing to offer sound advice. I am grateful for every conversation and friendship I have made in this community.