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Corydoras: Paleatus and Aeneus.

Published:17 de May de 2021, 10:30 · Fish technical sheets

Corydoras: Paleatus and Aeneus.

THE DESCRIPTION OF THE CORYDORA FISH:

Scientific name: Corydoras.
Common name: Cleaner fish.
Aquarium size: 60 to 80 liters.
Temperament: Calm, sociable and gregarious.
Temperature: Between 22º and 27ºC.
pH: Between 6 and 8.
Diet: Omnivore and detritivores.
Length: 3 cm to 6 cm.

Corydoras belong to the freshwater catfish actinopterygia genus.

Corydoras have not evolved that much, they are fish originating from the Paleocene epoch, being very resistant and good at adapting to waters with little oxygen.

They are very well suited to community aquariums, since they occupy the lower part, where they do not compete for space with other species.

In the aquarium they perform an important maintenance and cleaning function, since they consume food remains that settle on the bottom and although one of their terms of reference is "aquarium bottom cleaners", it should be clarified that this specimen does not consume excrements of other fish.

I would emphasize that if you intend to have Corydoras in your aquarium, they are gregarious fish that need a small school of at least 5 to 6 specimens, so that they are active and do not contract any disease caused by stress.

Corydoras are part of the bottom of our aquariums, brightening up and filling with light one of the most shaded and dimmed areas of our aquariums.

The physiognomy is typical of a deep-sea catfish with its mouth down to eat food from the sand, it has barbels or "whiskers" in its mouth with a great sensory capacity, which helps them look for food that may be in the bottom of rivers and lakes to then dig with his head until he finds it.

We can also see that sometimes they rise to the surface and then descend very quickly, this is because they have an organ on their head that allows them to breathe a certain amount of atmospheric air.

When this happens often, we are facing a sign that may indicate that we have low oxygen levels in the aquarium.

The size ranges from 3 cm to 14 cm depending on the species.

As for life expectancy, in the wild they exceed 15 years, while in aquariums it will depend greatly on the quality of life they have.

In optimal conditions they will exceed 10 years filling the bottom of our aquarium with joy.

Regarding their sexual dimorphism, it is very difficult to find differences with the naked eye.

Generally, the female is larger than the male and with a larger belly, which is more noticeable in the adult state and especially in the breeding season.

This species of fish has a flattened ventral part and a convex dorsal part.

The body and head are compressed and the eyes are in a more or less superior position.

They have a small fatty fin that is located behind the dorsal fin and is characteristic of the family Callichthyidae.

The pectoral fins formed by a large spine are important for their reproduction.

They do not have scales, instead, they have two rows of bony plates along the body that overlap it, covering the flanks, back and head.

Its name "Corydoras" originates from the Greek words Kóry (helmet) and doras (skin).

Another characteristic detail is the pair of beards or mustaches located on the lower jaw with great sensory capacity to help them look for food at the bottom of rivers and lakes.

Its mouth is located down to be able to eat food from the sand.

They use the swim bladder to breathe atmospheric air, which is then processed by the stomach and expelled as gases through the anus.

That is why they can sometimes be seen coming to the surface to ventilate, but if this is very recurrent it is also a sign that there is very little oxygen in the aquarium.

They can move through places where there is almost no water as long as the degree of humidity of the bottom is high.

Its size depends on the species.

In aquariums it varies from 3 to 6 centimeters but in its wild habitat they can measure up to 14 centimeters.

They are very little hydrodynamic or poor swimmers, so they prefer clean waters with slow currents and a sandy bottom, to facilitate their movement in search of food.

THE HABITAT AND GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF CORYDORAS:


Corydoras are found in a great diversity of habitats distributed throughout the northern part of South America.

Its great geographical expansion in ecosystems with different characteristics means that we can find multiple species with different colors and characteristics, due in large part to its adaptation to each of the means by which it is distributed.

Most of the species come from the tributaries of the Amazon and Orinoco rivers.

Normally, they roam rivers, lakes and swamps in large schools happily searching for food on the river bottoms with their barbels.

THE TYPES OF CORYDORA:

There are different species within the corydoras genus, registering up to a total of 150 species, the most commercialized are the following:

  • Paleatus.
  • Aenus.

Corydoras: Paleatus and Aeneus. - Imagen 1

  • Sterbai.
  • Panda.

Corydoras: Paleatus and Aeneus. - Imagen 2

  • Pygmy.
  • Adolfoi.
  • Eques.
  • Agassizii.
  • barbatus.
  • Arcuatus.
  • Elegans.
  • Hastatus.
  • Habrosus.
  • Julii.
  • Metae.
  • Schwartzi.
  • Black Venezuelan.

Corydoras: Paleatus and Aeneus. - Imagen 3

  • Melini.

THE BEST CARE OF THE AQUARIUM:

It depends a lot on the corydora they have, for example for a shoal of pygmy or hastatus 20 liters is enough, but if they don't have the barbatus they will need an aquarium of about 150-200 liters to maintain a group of 4-6 specimens.

Regardless of the size of our aquarium, it must have a suitable bottom, we will not have gravel with sharp edges or a very large thickness, in its eagerness to dig serious injuries were made.

At Glu Glu Pet we recommend fine sand that allows it to bury its head looking for food without harming itself in the least or even for it to bury all of it, as is the case with the barbatus, which like to camouflage themselves under the sand.

In addition, the ideal aquarium for corydoras should have branches and trunks with a sandy bottom and natural plants that are compatible with the characteristics of the aquarium in terms of lighting, substrate and nutrients.

In addition, we recommend an oversized filtration since these fish are very sensitive to nitrogenous compounds and especially to ammonia.

Corydoras are very active fish, they live in schools and always live at the bottom of aquariums, we do not recommend these fish for planted aquariums.

Basically due to the difficulty of introducing any new plant, whether it is ground cover or not, because in just a few minutes the corydoras will dig them up while looking for food or running around among them.

In a planted aquarium where, in most cases, the plants assume the leading role, it makes no sense to put fish that will revolutionize absolutely everything, that will thoroughly remove the substrate and that make the project very difficult when it comes to planting.

The vast majority of corydoras are comfortable in acidic-neutral PH and medium hardness, although some such as sterbai, black Venezuela and especially barbatus, we must give it an acidic and soft environment with great stability.

Although they accept a slight amount of nitrogenous compounds, to keep the fish at 100%, it is best that these values are at 0.

You should not have even the slightest level of ammonia since corydoras are very susceptible to hemorrhagic septicemia, a very contagious bacterial infection that in most cases appears due to poor water conditions: with spikes in ammonia or nitrite.

You must be very careful and methodical with maintenance tasks, have perfect filtration and get rid of all kinds of toxic compounds.

The parameters that corydoras need, differentiating between those that have more adaptability and those whose maintenance is more complex.

If a Corydoras barbatus is chosen, the aquarium should be about 150 to 200 liters, with a group of 4 to 6 specimens.

For the young, a special aquarium of 60 to 80 liters without a bottom filter is recommended.

For the cleaner fish to adapt to the environment of the aquarium, it must have a sandy or soft gravel bottom with branches, trunks and natural plants in accordance with the lighting, nutrients and substrates of the environment.

An oversized filtration must be used to keep nitrogenous compounds controlled, and especially ammonia, which does them a lot of damage.

These fish are not recommended for densely planted aquariums since, as they live in schools, they are very active and live on the bottom looking for food, they can end up digging up the plants.

For more adaptable corydoras:

  • Ph:7.
  • KH:4-6.
  • GH:10.
  • NO2:0.
  • NO3:0.

For the most delicate:

  • Ph:6-6.5.
  • KH:2.
  • GH:10.
  • NO2:0.
  • NO3:0.

FOR THEIR BEST CARE, IT IS NECESSARY TO KNOW ITS BEHAVIOR AND COMPATIBILITY:

As it is a bottom fish, its behavior is calm and sociable, being able to interact with other peaceful fish.

They are ideal for community aquariums since they share the spaces with not very large fish, preferably from the family of cyprinids, characins and other peaceful catfish.

The group of panda Corydoras are the most active and sociable.

Corydoras Compatible Fish:

  • Tiger Barb.
  • Scalars, Angelfish.
  • Guppies.
  • Tetra Neon.
  • silver dollar.
  • Rasbora Galaxy.
  • Kribensis.
  • Betta fish.
  • Platy.
  • Ancistrus.
  • Boraras.
  • Cherry barb.
  • Harlequin.
  • Botia Clown.
  • drunk.
  • Corydora.
  • Nun.
  • Ax Fish.
  • Telescope.
  • Disk.
  • Pearl Gourami.
  • Chinese neon.
  • Apple Snail.
  • Zebra fish.
  • Ramirezi.
  • Bubble eyes.

Fish compatible with restrictions:

  • Koi carp.
  • Oscar.

THE BEST NUTRITION OF CORYDORAS:

His diet is mainly based on a high protein intake.

They present a great nocturnal activity, the ideal is to feed with bottom pellets during the nights so that they are not shy due to the presence of the rest of the fish.

They can be fed artemia, mosquito larvae, tubifex, grindal, plant food such as spirulina, homemade porridge, boiled vegetables and daphnia.

There are many foods prepared especially for bottom fish, which will perfectly help you maintain a balanced diet, placing one tablet for every 3 or four fish.

Frozen food can also be buried.

THE REPRODUCTION OF THE CORYDORAS:

For captive breeding community aquariums should be avoided.

Good nutrition with live foods, water at a temperature close to 26°C and a neutral pH are essential for laying between adult schools of one female and two or three males.

Spawning can be induced by lowering the water temperature by about 4 °C, then gradually raising it, as well as lowering the water level to resemble the characteristics of the rainy season, which is the time when they mate in the wild. .

The female lays three to six eggs that are immediately fertilized by one of the males, to be stuck later on the underside of the leaves or along the aquarium.

The parents must be removed to another aquarium so that they do not eat the spawns, and when the eggs are left alone, it must be observed that they have good aeration, and use commercial anti-fungals to avoid any type of infection.

After between 48 and 72 hours, the fry are born and you have to have the greatest variety of live foods possible, which can be artemia nauplii or vinegar eels and if they do not consume this, you can also try commercial food flakes.

DISEASES OF CORYDORAS:

WHITE SPOTS, ICHTHYOPHTHIRIUS MULTIFILIIS:

Symptoms:

Corydoras have pin-sized white dots on their skin and fins.

Some of your mucous membranes may be shedding.

They rub against objects and gasp for breath.

Causes:

The symptoms are due to a single-celled skin parasite called Ichthyophthirius, which is often introduced when new fish are added to the aquarium.

"Ichthyo" infects virtually all fish, without exception, and it also gets worse very quickly.

Corrective measures:

From Glu Glu Pet we recommend a partial water change without delay and buy a suitable medicine in a specialized store to treat the infection.

Follow exactly the exact dosage and treatment instructions specified on the product.

In many cases consecutive treatment cycles are required.

Treatment:

PARASITES:

Symptoms:

Mucous membrane and gill parasites can infect aquarium fish without us noticing.

This is so because mild infections are usually asymptomatic and most pathogens are microscopic.

Symptoms only manifest in severe cases and unfortunately are quite often non-specific.

Dull mucous membranes, rubbing on objects, and unnaturally heavy breathing stand out.

Causes:

The best known parasites of mucous membranes and gills are protozoa of the type Costia, Trichodina, Chilodonella, as well as Ichthyophthirius and Oodinium.

Metazoans include skin and gill worms belonging to the genera Gyrodactylus and Dactylogyrus.

Corrective measures:

From Glu Glu Pet it is recommended to buy suitable medicines in a specialized store.

Remember that well-cared-for fish have a healthy immune system and therefore can keep pathogens at bay on their own.

ROT:

Corydoras have damaged or frayed fins.

Symptoms:

The fins of infected fish appear ragged and their edges have a whitish hue.

Many corydoras also have open wounds, especially at the base of the fins.

There may be opacity of the mucous membranes and eyes.

In cases of columnar, the mouth of the fish is covered by whitish cottony formations and presents damaged tissue.

Causes:

These infections are caused by bacteria.

In corydoras it indicates that something is wrong, as they predominantly affect fish with a weakened immune system, infested with parasites, with poor living conditions or subjected to a lot of stress.

Corrective measures:

At Glu Glu Pet we recommend an appropriate medication bought in a specialized store and strictly comply with the instructions for use, and it is essential to take measures to improve environmental conditions, reduce stress and promote good health of the fish.

A partial water change must be carried out, the substrate must be cleaned, the water quality improved in general, a diet that favors the good physical condition of the fish must be guaranteed, and the population must be verified, avoiding excess inhabitants in the aquarium, taking into account social compatibility.

Never use antibiotics unless prescribed by a veterinarian.

Treatment:

INFECTIONS, SAPROLEGNIA:

Symptoms:

Infections are visible cottony growths on the skin and fins.

They usually appear next in the contour of the wounds or in inflamed areas.

Causes:

Fungal infections are triggered by fungal spores, of the Saprolengia genus, which are always present in water.

They particularly affect fish with a weakened immune system and fish with wounds or damaged mucous membranes.

Corrective measures:

Fungal infections can be treated with drugs available in specialized stores.

These are secondary infections and therefore it is necessary to identify and treat the main cause.

You must improve the living conditions, the quality of the water, and do not forget that your fish could also suffer from a parasitic or bacterial infection.

Glu Glu Pet recommends that you check the fish population, see if they get along with each other and see how they react to measures to improve their fitness and nutrition.

Determine the cause of the problem: check the water parameters, if they are correct, if the temperature is right for the corydoras, or if your corydoras could be injured.

Treatment:

TUBERCULOSIS:

Symptoms:

Your corydora suffers from a sunken or bloated belly.

They may develop proptosis and parts of their fins may be clipped or misshapen.

Your skin is pale or swollen.

In many cases, the scales stick together or even fall off.

The fish seem listless and isolate themselves.

In the early stages of the disease, the fish may appear fit, as the pathogens first spread through the internal organs.

Causes;

Tuberculosis in fish is caused by bacteria of the Mycobacterium genus, which are naturally present in the tank and mainly affect fish that are stressed, older or with weakened defenses.

Tuberculosis can have a slow or very fast evolution and even remain latent, but it is always infectious.

Corrective measures:

Well-cared-for fish with favorable environmental conditions do not usually fall ill.

Tuberculosis is not treated with medication, if it is possible to stop its progress.

It is essential to improve living conditions.

Ensure adequate water parameters, carry out partial water changes on a regular basis and feed the fish with high-quality products.

Check the number of fish in the aquarium.

Remember that in extremely rare cases, mycobacteria can infect open wounds in humans and cause a harmless, local and treatable skin disorder.

For hygiene reasons, if you have any wounds on your hands, always wear gloves when you put them in the aquarium.

AMMONIA OR NITRITE POISONING:

Symptoms:

Fish have real difficulty breathing and can gasp at the surface of the water.

They often show listlessness or irregular swimming.

They are pale and anxious,

Causes:

Ailments are not always due to pathogens or parasites; fish sometimes show symptoms of poisoning due to excessive amounts of ammonia or nitrate in the water.

Corrective measures:

Close monitoring of living conditions is necessary, check if:

  • The population density is too high.
  • An adequate biological conditioning of the aquarium was carried out.
  • The fish have been overfed.
  • There are dead fish that have not yet been found.
  • If medications have been administered that may have destroyed the biological filtration

Check the ammonia and nitrite values in the aquarium.

If they are high, perform a partial water change immediately.

High values of ammonia and nitrite are always an indication that the biological filtration is altered or inadequate.

Bacterial starters are recommended, both here and during the aquarium conditioning process.

SWIM BLADDER:

Symptoms:

The swim bladder fish swims inverted, face up.

He trips over everything and moves clumsily.

Causes:

The main cause is poor water care, which generates bacteria and bacterial infections.

It can also be due to a congenital problem.

Treatment:

We must move the fish to another aquarium to quarantine it and consult the specialist.

Once we apply the treatment, we just have to wait.

If it is a week everything remains the same, it will never improve.

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