African Cichlid Recommendations and Suggestions

 

Although broadly speaking these fish fall into three categories, there are two basic rules of compatibility that overrule all others – either the species in question is monogamous or polygamous.

 

When dealing with these cichlids, monogamous species are restricted to the substrate spawning Tanganyikans. These fish need breeding territories and will defend them against most fishes perceived as a threat – particularly members of their own species. Unlike the polygamous mouthbrooders, they need to establish a territory suitable for rearing fry and will normally claim as much space as possible using teeth and targeted aggression. As such, a well-stocked community of rock-dwelling species will have widely spaced rock-piles to allow easily defined areas of territory. Most of these fishes have little interest in open areas of substrate and will be more tolerant of tank-mates if separated by such a ‘no mans land’. Such areas of sand can be used for shell-dwelling cichlids and in a large enough tank, midwater-swimming fish such as Rainbows, Danios or Cyprichromis cichlids. These are only compatible if the height of the tank permits them to move beyond the territorial boundaries defined by the pairs of cichlids.

 

Although they can be kept in pairs, a few fish in this group are haremic (mainly shell-dwellers) and if space permits are best kept in single male, multiple female groups.

 

Please note that unlike polygamous mouthbrooders, substrate spawners are not more peaceful in crowded tanks – merely more challenged! 

 

Most Rift-lake cichlids (and virtually all of the best-looking ones) are polygamous mouthbrooders. In these fishes, males defend spawning territories from rival males and court any females they encounter. Females unwilling to spawn are chased away and no pair bonds exist.

 

In the confines of an aquarium, a male will often kill females unable to leave his territory. These fish can only be kept in pairs in large tanks with lots of distractions for the male, such as rivals of other species or large amounts of rockwork. Females are often harassed after spawning and many fail to recover due to this added pressure. 

 

Unlike monogamous cichlids, males only need a territory large enough to spawn in – normally centred on a cave, pit or rock. They will attempt to claim the largest area they can but in the face of evenly matched competition this can be quite small. A few species are less restricted and will court females outside their territory. These fish are best kept in crowded communities but avoid having multiple males of the same species or similar looking cichlids except in very large tanks. Not only are their colours a badge of territorial ownership but a signal to potential mates – similar species will readily hybridise, particularly if the right male is unable to hold a territory.

 

Remember that not all of these fish share a similar biology and levels of aggression can vary greatly depending on those found in the natural environment. Generally speaking, Mbuna are rock-dwelling fishes found at naturally high densities whereas most Haplochromines are found in more open habitats, this makes them poor tankmates. If the two groups are mixed, it is a good idea to restrict the areas of rockwork and avoid the more aggressive species e.g. Melanochromis auratus

 

The three basic set-ups. African lake fish can generally be split into three broad groups:

• Tanganyikan
• Mbuna
• Haplochromine

 

As with all tanks containing cichlids, a tanganyikan tank can never be too large. This is the group however that contains species suitable for smaller aquaria.

 

Thanks to very stable pair bonds and a small adult size, some of these fish can be kept as pairs or small groups in tanks of around 60 cm. Shell-dwellers are the ideal choice for this kind of set-up and exhibit interesting behaviours and real cichlid characters. Another option is a pair of Neolamprologus of the brichardi complex. These fish form colonies where juveniles defend their younger siblings and all individuals defend the territory.

 

A small tank 60 x 30 x 50 cm with a layer of silver sand and a few rocks to break-up the sight lines could have either one of the following:

• One male and two female Lamprologus ocellatus ‘gold’
• One pair of Neolamprologus caudopunctatus
• One pair of Neolamprologus brichardi
• One pair of Julidochromis ‘gombe’

 

Note that when keeping haremic shell-dwellers, shells should be spaced far enough apart to stop females fighting. When kept as pairs, even smaller tanks can be used for these fish but they are easier to keep in larger aquaria where territorial males can work off their aggression on rival tankmates.

 

As an example, a tank measuring 120 x 50 x 50 cm with a pile of rocks at either end separated by 60 cm of sand could support:

One pair of mid sized Neolamprologus e.g. N. pulcher ‘daffodil’

One pair of Julidochromis e.g. J. regani

Three pairs of colonial shell-dwellers e.g. N. multifasciatus or similis

One male and four (or more) female Cyprichromis e.g. C. leptosoma

A dozen Celebes Rainbowfish (Marosatherina ladigesi) or small Danios

 

In such a community, all species of cichlids would successfully breed and a substantial colony of each of the cichlids could be expected.Various permutations of this set up can be altered - Cyprichromis and small shoaling fish can be replaced with a group of larger Rainbowfish e.g. Melanotaenia sp. or even Platies or Swordtails if colour is needed. Planting around the rockwork breaks the sightlines and aids harmony. Vallisneria is the most suitable plant for this purpose.

 

Some tanganyikans are more solitary and only come together to breed. These fish need spacious aquaria to avoid aggression related losses. These include species such as Neolamprologus leleupi, N. cylindricus and N. tretocephalus. These cichlids can be kept in tanks with plenty of rockwork alongside the masters of infra-specific aggression – Tropheus.

 

The same 120 x 50 x 50 cm aquarium would make a suitable tank for a group of ten or more Tropheus. As tank and group size increases, these fish become easier to keep. Unlike the majority of tanganyikan cichlids, these fish are maternal mouthbrooders and have much in common with the Malawian mbuna. One key difference is the fact that males actively court females anywhere in the aquarium and that females are much more aggressive to one another. This makes large, stable groups the best way to keep these fish and unlike mbuna, multiple males are the norm in such a set-up. Rockwork reaching the waters’ surface provides refuge for harassed individuals and young fishes, large caves will be claimed as territory by males. Aside from one another, the other major killer of Tropheus is an unsuitable diet – these algae eating fishes need a high fibre diet and should never be fed bloodworm or brineshrimp. Spirulina flake is the best staple diet and can be supplemented with mysis or krill occasionally. Like all of these lake cichlids, nitrates should be kept as low as possible – preferably below 20 ppm.

 

Cyphotilapia frontosa are an exception to most rules for tanganyikans and are best kept like the large predatory haplochromines dealt with below. Although large and predatory, these fish are not particularly aggressive.

 

Aside from the shoaling fishes mentioned above which can only be kept in tall tanks with appropriately peaceful tankmates, catfish are the other major group of fish suitable for mixing with tanganyikans. Algae eating catfish can be useful additions for keeping things clean but will normally be harassed by substrate spawners and restrict their activities to after dark. Care should be taken to ensure the welfare of Plecs etc. in such communities and remove them if needed. Given the feeding habits of Tropheus, it is neither necessary or desirable to keep them with other algae eating fish. Tanganyikan Synodontis catfish make better companions and other endemic catfish such as Lophiobagrus add variety where space and tankmates permit. Tanganyikan spiny eels can also be kept but note that many of these fishes feed on young cichlids in the wild.

 

With much in common with marine fish, the bold colours and outgoing nature of these fish make them the most appealing to new cichlid keepers.

 

These fish are all openly polygamous maternal mouthbrooders and males are united in their attitudes to territory and females. Keeping them in small tanks with too few females will lead to problems.

 

A 90 x 30 x 50 cm aquarium is the smallest size suitable for a community of more peaceful mbuna (a relative term!) such as Labidochromis or Iodotropheus, kept as single male, multiple female groups. As with tanganyikans, larger tanks are better. Avoid housing similar species together and try to arrange rockwork into piles to break sightlines. On the subject of rockwork, bear in mind that the traditionally used coral sand/ocean rock set-up can make the fishes more nervous and less colourful than dark substrates and rocks - a number of authorities claim that coral sand irritates the gills and causes itching. Feel free to show these fishes off with dark substrates and rockwork.

 

With these and many other cichlids, adding new fish to the tank can be difficult. The best strategy is to mature the tank prior to adding the fish – either using products or easily removed, hardy stock (such as a couple of good-sized goldfish) and then replace these with your intended fish. More peaceful mbuna can be stocked in the conventional way providing the least aggressive fish are added first and plenty of space is available for new territories. When adding new fish to existing territorial stock either re-arrange the rockwork to confuse the residents or attach a good-sized mirror to the outside of the tank to distract them.

 

A 90 x 30 x 50 cm set up could house the following:

• One male and four female Labidochromis caeruleus
• One male and four female Iodotropheus sprengerae
• One male and four female Pseudotropheus demasoni

 

This stocking allows plenty of room for the inevitable fry to develop and should provide females with areas free from excessive harassment. More females can be added if desired. Alternative species for this tank could be taken from the following:

• Cynotilapia afra 
• Labidochromis ‘blue/white’
• Labidochromis chisumulae
• Labidochromis ‘hongi’- Labidochromis ‘perlmutt’
• Pseudotropheus ‘kingsizei’ (=Cynotilapia afra ‘white-top’)
• Pseudotropheus saulosi
• Pseudotropheus socolofi
• Pseudotropheus perspicax (red-top ndumbi)

 

Increasing the size of tank to 120 x 50 x 50 cm increases the number of species suitable. Always remember to keep to a single male of each species and avoid males with the same colour pattern. A larger community could be stocked with the same species as listed above – perhaps six to eight single male/multiple female groups. Or more aggressive species can be stocked - some of these fish are liable to bully those listed above and should be seen as alternatives rather than additions to the milder mbuna unless the tank is very large. Stocking levels for these fishes can be as high as six individuals per square foot if filtration allows. The following species are suitable for aquariums 120 cm and over:

• Labeotropheus trewavasae
• Melanochromis cyaneorhabdus (=Maingano)
• Melanochromis dialeptos (=Dwarf auratus)
• Melanochromis interruptus (=Pseudo. ‘neon spot’)
• Melanochromis joanjohnsonae (=Exasperatus)
• Melanochromis johanni
• Melanochromis lepidiadaptes (=Lepidophage)
• Metriaclima ‘msobo’
• Metriaclima aurora
• Metriaclima callainos (=Cobalt or White zebra)
• Metriaclima estherae (=Red or Orange-Blotch zebra)
• Metriaclima greshakei (=Red top ice blue zebra)
• Metriaclima zebra
• Pseudotropheus aceii (=Yellow-tailed violet cichlid)
• Pseudotropheus crabro
• Pseudotropheus daktari
• Pseudotropheus elongatus ornatus
• Pseudotropheus elongatus mpanga
• Pseudotropheus flavus

 

This is the largest grouping in terms of aggression and as long as males are evenly matched, a stable community can be achieved. Note that species now in the genus Metriaclima may be listed as Pseudotropheus or even Maylandia. The red zebra M. estherae has a few colour variants and the wild red form would normally have red females and blue males. This form is often listed as ‘blue/red’ and can be easily sexed – young males are brown (blue when mature), females red. The more commonly seen form has red females and red (salmon pink) males. This form is listed as ‘red/red’ and is harder to sex – young males are orange before changing colour. ‘OB’ or ‘Orange – blotch’ zebras are also likely to be estherae. The ‘zebra complex’ Metriaclima are best kept apart to avoid hybridisation – particularly estherae and callainos.

 

The last mbuna grouping contains some of the most commonly seen cichlids and these are often encountered as single males returned from customers no longer willing to devote a single tank to just one or two psychotic cichlids! These need aquaria of 150 cm and over:

• Metriaclima lombardoi
• Melanochromis auratus
• Melanochromis chipokae/loriae
• Melanochromis parallelus
• Labeotropheus fuelleborni
• Petrotilapia spp.
• Pseudotropheus elongatus ‘chewere’,‘chailosi’ etc.

 

Avoid mixing these hardcore mbuna with the more peaceful species from the first list – they can be housed with the large predatory Haplochromines in suitably massive tanks with good results.

 

Unlike the mbuna, this group is found in more varied habitats and are often less aggressive, needing less crowded conditions. Like them, they are polygamous mouthbrooders with no pair bonds and a tendency to harass females.

 

Generally speaking, these fishes need large tanks with little rockwork and plenty of open swimming space. Many species are found over sandy areas or inhabit open water unless breeding. Sand dwelling species such as Placidochromis can be kept with the more peaceful mbuna in large aquariums with restricted rocky areas. Large predatory species such as Nimbochromis can be kept with more aggressive mbuna in similarly furnished tanks. Aulonocara are placid fishes and can be kept in tanks with rockwork arranged to form caves – these are the only species suitable for tanks smaller than 120 cm but need to be kept as single male groups in these smaller communities. A small quantity of peaceful mbuna can be kept alongside them as long as long as they remain the dominant fish.

 

For example, a 90 x 30 x 50 cm tank could contain:

• One male and four female Aulonocara jacobfreibergi or stuartgranti
• One male and four female Labidochromis caeruleus

 

A larger set up increases options. A 120 x 50 x 50 cm aquarium with a silver sand substrate and a few large rocks could contain:

• One male and four female Placidochromis electra or phenochilus
• One male and four female Copadichromis borleyi ‘red fin’

 

Like the mbuna, more females can be added if desired. Alternative options could be taken from the following list:

• Chilotilapia rhoadesii
• Copadichromis azureus
• Copadichromis verduyni
• Cyrtocara moorii
• Placidochromis johnstoni
• Protomelas annectens
• Protomelas ‘steveni taiwan’
• Protomelas taeniolatus

 

These species prefer a more open aquarium. With more rockwork arranged to form caves the following species can be considered:

• Aulonocara spp
• Otopharynx lithobates
• Placidochromis milomo
• Sciaenochromis fryeri (=ahli)

 

As with mbuna, avoid mixing similar species. The best option is to avoid keeping more than a single species of any genus together to avoid possible hybridisation and excessive competition. Please note that many of the above are still referred to as Haplochromis. Although coming from a different lake, many Victoria basin cichlids are suitable for this kind of community. 

 

In a tank 150 – 200 cm and above, a number of the more robust predatory ‘Haps’ can be kept – possibly alongside the moderately aggressive mbuna, although rockwork should be kept to a minimum. These include some familiar fishes:

• Aristochromis christyi
• Buccochromis spp
• Champsochromis caeruleus
• Dimidiochromis compressiceps
• Nimbochromis spp - livingstonii, venustus etc.
• Tyrannochromis spp

 

The easy availability of these large predators mirrors the situation seen with the most aggressive mbuna and like them they should only be stocked in very large tanks.

 

As a general rule, Malawi cichlids should only be mixed with one another and then with caution. Tanganyikans are generally unsuitable as tankmates due to their different territorial requirements although Tropheus can be mixed with some of the more placid mbuna. Tanganyikan catfish such as Synodontis multipunctatus mix well with most Malawian cichlids and will often breed when kept as a group. 

 

Although many of the fishes listed above are held in stock in a few of our more cichlid-oriented stores, they can be supplied to order from a number of sources – ask your local branch for details.