What is julmust?
Julmust is a non-alcoholic Swedish drink that’s associated with the festive season. The name itself means “Christmas juice”. When translated from Swedish, Jul means Christmas (yule), with the second part of the name, must, being the term used for unfermented juice or berries.
Commercial julmust is made from carbonated water, malt and hop extracts, sugar, citric acid, and preservatives. A caramel coloring is added, along with a secret combination of spices. The flavor is often described as being a cross between Coca-Cola and root beer, although to some people it tastes more like Coke and apple juice.
Home-made julmust is made from naturally carbonated ferments, and begins with a basic must, called sodastart. Once the sodastart is ready, it’s added to a fruit and spice maceration, and then left to ferment further. This results in a sweet, rich, and dark effervescent beverage.
What is the origin of julmust?
Julmust was created by Swedish national, Harry Roberts, who first heard of a non-alcoholic alternative to traditional festive drinks while studying chemistry in Germany. He later received a recipe for what eventually became julmust.
In 1910, and in partnership with his father, Robert Roberts, a soft drinks manufacturer himself, Harry Roberts founded the company, Roberts AB, in Örebro, Sweden. The company is still privately owned by members of the Roberts family.
A teetotal, Roberts junior created non-alcoholic Roberts Julöl (Roberts Christmas ale) as a sweet alternative to beer and porter, which were the preferred festive drinks in Sweden at the time.
While it is hugely popular today, the uptake of this Christmas ale was relatively slow. Sales didn’t really pick up until 1922, when Sweden introduced a new prohibition law limiting the production and sale of strong alcoholic drinks.
Julmust facts
- In Sweden during the Christmas season, julmust outsells Coca-Cola by 50%.
- It’s common practice to age bottles of store-bought julmust for a year before consuming.
- The exact recipe is a well-guarded secret. Even to this day, there are only certain members of the Roberts family who know the original recipe.
- Roberts AB sells the syrup used in julmust to many different soft drinks manufacturers. The final product is then manufactured to each company’s own specification.
- In 2004, PepsiCo created its own version of julmust, and named it Pepsi Holiday Spice. The drink was not popular, and was only sold for two Christmas seasons, in 2004 and 2006.
- The largest Swedish producers of julmust are Nygårda and Apotekarnes. In a similar vein to the Pepsi and Coca-Cola rivalry, each brand has its own devoted following.
- In 2007, McDonald’s sold Coca-Cola’s version of julmust, Bjäre Julmust (which was made with syrup from Roberts AB). As with PepsiCo, this recipe proved to be unpopular, and by 2008, it was removed from all of Coca-Cola’s Christmas products. It made a brief comeback in 2011 but overall revenue failed to compare to that of the market leaders.
- IKEA stores in the UK, USA, Hong Kong, Russia, Ireland, and many more sell Dryck julmust at Christmas. In 2017, the name was changed to Vintersaga (“winter fairy tale”) as part of a rebranding exercise.
- 12 million gallons (45 million liters) of julmust are consumed during December in Sweden. This equates to around half of the total soft drink consumption of the month, and makes up 75% of the manufacturers’ totally yearly sales.
- Must was the year-round version of julmust but it’s no longer sold, and the only other variant now available is the Easter one, påskmust (påsk being Swedish for Easter).
- Despite the only change being the label on the bottle, Swedes claim that there is a distinct difference between julmust and påskmust.
Purchasing julmust outside Sweden
In Sweden, during the run-up to Christmas, julmust can be found in abundance across many big retailers, markets, and smaller stores. However, it’s not always easily found in other countries, which is why the Swedish diaspora sometimes make it for themselves.
In the UK, big brand shops such as Ocado and Sainsbury’s stock julmust over the winter season. There are also a number of online retailers which sell it.
It is sold during Christmastime in the US at the Cost Plus World Market. There may be independent European food retailers, particularly in Swedish-settled towns and cities (for example, Lindsborg in Kansas, and Lindström in Minnesota), where this festive drink may be purchased.
This recipe is validated by our expert in Swedish cuisine, Chef Stefano Catenacci. Chef Stefano is the co-owner of Nobis Hospitality Group, including Michelin-starred Operakallaren in Stockholm.
Julmust
Ingredients
For the basic must (sodastart)
- 2 cups water
- 2 tablespoons fresh ginger , finely grated
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar
- 1½ tablespoon sugar
For the julmust (Christmas must)
- 3 oz. raisins
- 3 dried figs , cut in half
- 4 prunes , pitted
- 3 oz. fresh ginger , finely chopped
- 3 oz. juniper berries , lightly crushed
- 2 pieces orange peel
- 1 teaspoon nutmeg , freshly grated
- 3 cloves
- 10 green cardamom pods
- 2 star anise
- 5 cinnamon sticks
- 2 teaspoons citric acid
- 3½ quarts water
- 16 oz. dark muscovado sugar
- ¾ cup sodastart (previously prepared basic must)
Equipment
- Glass jar
Instructions
Basic must (sodastart)
- Mix all the ingredients in a previously sterilized glass jar. Cover with a thin cloth held in place with a rubber band.
- Let stand for 5 days, in a warm place away from drafts, stirring 3 times a day.
- When bubbles appear on the surface the sodastart is ready. Filter it.
Julmust (Christmas must)
- Combine 4 cups (1 liter) of water with the fruits, spices and citric acid in a large saucepan.
- Bring to a boil and simmer over low to medium heat for 20 minutes.
- Add in the sugar, mix well and let it melt completely.
- Remove the pot from the heat and add the remaining 2½ quarts (2,5 liters) of water.
- Cover cooled saucepan with plastic wrap or a tight fitting lid. Let sit for 12 hours
- Filter this mixture and add ¾ cup (200 ml) of filtered sodastart.
- Cover with a thin cloth and let stand at room temperature for 4 to 5 days.
- Pour everything into a previously sterilized jar or glass bottle. Close the jar.
- Let the jar or bottle sit at room temperature for 1 to 2 days to carbonate naturally. Carbon dioxide will form naturally.
- To stop the fermentation, place the drink in the refrigerator for 1 month.
Video
Venetian-Brit Nicole has always lived a nomadic existence, and has had 56 homes around the world. As a chef, she has cooked in pro kitchens in Thailand, India, and Britain, and has consulted on menus for restaurants & hotels from Japan to the USA. Her work has been featured in some of the world’s best-known publications, including Better Homes & Gardens, Grazia, Femina, Stylecaster, Buzzfeed, and The Guardian. At yumsome.com, she shares stories and recipes from her travels.
Jessica says
I’m getting a late start to my Christmas cooking this year. Can the yulmust be consumed while the fermentation is still active or do I have to wait one month?
Nicole Rossetti le Strange says
Hi Jessica!
The point of keeping it in the fridge for up to a month is to stop it fermenting further but it’s actually ready to drink a couple of days after bottling.
If you’re pushed for time, and want a quicker method, which requires no fermenting (I call it ’emergency julmust’!), follow steps 1-3 of the actual Christmas must recipe (not the sodastart) to make a syrup. Don’t add the extra water (or sodastart!) when it’s done. Once cooled, strain into a bottle with a screw top, and store at room temperature. To use, simply mix with carbonated or soda water. The syrup will keep for a month or so.
Do let us know how you get on with it, won’t you? And have a wonderful Jul! x
Denis says
How much soda water would you use in the Emergancy version?
Nicole Rossetti le Strange says
It’s entirely down to personal taste, Denis. Think of it as making up squash or cordial! Add some of the syrup to a glass, and top up with soda water. Stir well, and give it a taste. If it’s not strong enough, add some more syrup. If it’s too strong, add more water!
Enjoy! x
Zuriel says
This drink is so refreshing. We love it!
Rachel Ingleston says
Nicole,
Can I bottle it in individual bottles to let it ferment the 1-2 days. I do not have that big of a jar. I love Julmust and having a hard time trying to buy the extract from the company in Sweden.They offer all extracts but julmust. This recipe looks great. Thank you so much for sharing.
Best
Rachel
Nico | yumsome food and travel says
Hi Rachel,
You should be fine to make in individual bottles.
I’ve never heard of Julmust extract being on sale to the general public (although that’s not to say it isn’t) but the bottles of soda are widely available. If you’re outside Sweden, there are many specialist Scandinavian stores, both online and bricks and mortar, where you’ll be able to buy it at this time of year.
Good luck with making your own; I hope you love it as much as commercial varieties.
God jul!
Rachel Ingleston says
Nico,
thank you for the reply. I have tried the Yulmust from Ikea, it is a little sweeter than the Yulmust I started drinking. My mom has a Swedish friend who used to make it and sell it locally. Her and her husband actually contracted with a bottler in Colorado to make their Yulmust.
I have a few more questions. So I am okay to use my bottle capper to cap the bottles and let them sit for 4-5 days then place in the fridge? Also does it matter the size of the bottles? I have 650 mL bottles or I have 750 mL bottles? Also can I double the recipe?
Good Jul to you!
Rachel
Amanda says
Should I notice any bubbling or changes while the julmust is sitting for 4-5 after having the sodastart added to it? I dont know if it should be bubbling the way the soda start did. My house is rather cold.
ah says
re-read the recipe a few more times for the answer to your question….