My Guide to Sark

Ever wanted to escape modern life and journey back in time? Then look no further than Sark.

Located in the British Channel the beautiful island of Sark is part of the Bailiwick of Guernsey. From its shores you can see Jersey and the French coast line. What makes Sark so special is how untainted it is by modern life. Life moves at a much slower pace on the 5.45km² island. Amongst many quirks it has no cars or streetlights. The roads have no tarmac on them and bicycles and tractors are the main mode of transport. The lack of outdoor lighting during the evenings means that it gained “Dark Sky Island” status in 2011. The starscape is truly unforgettable. On a dark night when there is no moon the sky is completely saturated with little white stars, you can even see the milky way clearly on these nights. You will not find any modern buildings protruding the skyline either. Most of the buildings on the island are stone cottages with quaint little gardens. There is also an absence of consumerism. You won’t find any billboards and advertisement is to a bare minimum so while you are there you can completely forget about all those new and glamorous things you wanted and be truly content with everything you already have. The nature of the island is equally as charming. There are many beaches around the island most of which can be accessed via stairs and footpaths (the island is elevated approximately 100m above sea level) all of which are pristine and characterful. Due to the large tidal range the coastline constantly changes appearance so you can never get bored of the seascape (even if you’ve spent three consecutive summers there!) If you are lucky you might see some dolphins playing around the coastline.

For this guide I want to tell you about my favourite places to visit and activities to do as well as events worth planning your trip around. I will also give you an idea of what to bring and things to bear in mind for your visit so you can go there better prepared and with a better idea of what to expect. For any seasonaires interested in doing a season there I will write a separate guide to go with this one to give you an idea of what it is like to live on such a unique island. So without further a due lets dive in to the guide!

Things to do on the Island

Because the island is small most of the areas can be visited in just a few days. I will try and organise this guide so you can visit each site in a logical order.

Sark Henge and Derrible Bay

Sark Henge and Derrible Bay are located on the south side of the island. The henge was erected in 2015 to mark the 450th Anniversary since Queen Elizabeth I granted the Fief of Sark to Helier De Carteret. As well as being a great photo opportunity the view from the henge is stunning. You can see the French coastline and Jersey in the distance and on a sunny day when the visibility is good you can even see the traffic moving on the Franch coastline.

Derrible Bay is located just below the henge and can be accessed via a winding footpath and a set of steep steps. Because of the vast tidal range depending on when you go Derrible Bay looks completely different. To access the beach you have to clamber over some rocks. During high tide the beach is quite uneven and rocky and is surrounded by impressive boulders. Amongst them you can find little rock pools. On low tide a beige sandy beach extends into the ocean. What makes Derrible bay unique is the caves that can be found towards the end of the bay. On low tide you can walk into an impressive cave with an open ceiling.

Prime time to visit: Low tide. That way you can see the caves and enjoy the sandy beach.

Hogsback

Hogsback is a headland located between Dixcart Bay and Derrible Bay. Historically it is the point at which the Germans invaded Sark during WWII and there is a plaque there to remember the event. What’s great about Hogsback is the view. I went up there one morning to watch the sunrise and it was a truly spectacular sight. Even during the day it is a good spot to sit and enjoy the sea breeze and view.

Dixcart Bay

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This is the beach that I most frequently visited while I lived on Sark, partly because it was the closest beach to my accommodation but also because it is one of the most accessible beaches on the island. The beach itself is a combination of pebbles and sand and is almost stripy. Towards the back of the beach are little pockets of sand, perfect for setting up camp on. Then there is a patch of pebbles and finally a vast expanse of sand by the sea. Depending on the tide the amount of sand varies but regardless it is a great beach to relax on. What’s great about Dixcart is the variety of “Chilling” you can achieve there. You can put your towel down and sunbathe, there is enough sandy space that you could play catch or run around. When the tide is high there are a few good spots to jump or dive off of. There is also a little stream that is great for keeping your drinks cool in as well. Dixcart is also a prime spot for having a little campfire in the evening. Just like the rest of the island the starscape is absolutely stunning and if you go for a little dip at night the water will sparkle and glow as you move about. This is caused by bioluminescent plankton. There is something truly magical about swimming around in the starry water while staring up at the milky-way.

Prime time to visit: Mid to High tide if you want to jump off the rocks and enjoy swimming.

La Coupeé and Grande Greve Beach

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La Coupeé is the causeway that joins Little Sark to the Mainland. This is probably the most iconic landmark on Sark. From La Coupeé there is a good view both to the east and west side of the island. On the east you can see Jersey’s coast and on the west side is Guernsey. On either side of the causeway is a sheer drop and on the west side is where you will find Grande Greve Beach.

Grande Greve is one of the sandiest beaches on Sark. It is one of the largest. Getting there is quite a mission as the footpath and stairs leading down to it are very narrow and very steep but it is totally worth the trek down (and back up). When the tide is low there is a vast expanse of sand and you can explore the corners of the beach where you will find small caves and rocks to clamber over and jump off of.

Prime time to visit: Low to Mid tide that way you can make the most of the sandy beach.

Little Sark and The Venus Pool

There are plenty of things to see on little Sark as well. After La Coupeé there is a long winding road that will take you into little Sark. Along the way you will come by La Sablonnerie, one of the two hotels on Sark. Here you can stop off for a spot of lunch or some afternoon tea. Their gardens are secluded and quite charming so a perfect spot for a quick break. The Venus Pool, one of my favourite spots is also located on Little Sark. This little pool is located on the south end of the island and is only accessible two hours either side of low tide. This is because the pool is completely submerged under seawater when the tide is high. This is a great spot to go for a quick dip and you can dry off on the flat rocks that surround the pool afterwards. The pool is easy enough to spot though it is a little hard to reach. Though if you are wearing good walking shoes or trainers you shouldn’t have a problem getting down. Keep an eye out for the silver mines (You can see several shafts) and the big white chair on your walk.

Prime time to visit: Low tide if you want to find the Venus Pool.

All of the above are on the same route so you could plan to do them all in one sitting although you might not be in each place for its prime time if you do.

Pilcher Monument and Haver Gosselin

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If you look over towards the west coast of Sark you might see a tall monument that looks a little bit like a small lighthouse from a distance. That is Pilcher Monument. It looks like a war memorial but it was actually erected in memory of a Mr Pilcher and three other men who were drowned at sea when they tried to get to Guernsey during a storm. It is there as a reminder of how powerful the sea can be. Pilcher Monument is a great spot to watch the sunset. I spent many an evening with my camera photographing the sun setting over Guernsey. The sunsets on Sark are truly stunning. There is a little footpath that leads from the monument down to Haver Gosselin which is a little harbour. During high tide this is a great spot to jump into the water. There is also a rocky bay you can swim out to if you are a strong swimmer.

Prime time to visit: High tide if you want to jump into the sea. Sunset if you want to go to the monument.

Gouliot Caves

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Located on the west coast overlooking Brecqhou Island is the Gouliot Headland. From there there is a little footpath that leads down the side leading to the Gouliot Caves. The caves can only be accessed during low spring tide and is worth visiting because of the wealth of marine life that can be found in it. As you walk around the inside of the cave you can see sea anemones stuck to the walls alongside other alien looking marine life. It is definitely worth checking out if you happen to be there during low spring tide but I would caution people who go there to be vigilant as you wouldn’t want to get stuck in the caves if the tide starts coming in.

Prime time to visit: If you want to go in the caves you will have to visit on a low spring tide.

Window in the Rock and Port du Moulin

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Located on the west coast window in the rock is a small manmade opening cut into the side of some natural stone. The opening looks out over Port du Moulin and you can also see Herm Island in the close distance. (I would definitely recommend a day trip over to Herm, the beaches there are incredible and you can try Herm oysters there as well.) Port du Moulin is a great spot to go swimming but it can only be accessed during low tide. It is also a great spot to watch the sunset.

Prime time to visit: If you want to go to Port du Moulin you need to go at low tide.

The North End

Last but not least, the north end is my favourite area on the whole island. This is the wild side of the island. If you walk or ride your bike past the turning for the window in the rock and further the road will come to an end by some fencing. Beyond it is a vast expanse of brambles and grass. Here the wind blows strong and the waves crash against the cliff face and there are several footpaths that will take you to the very end of the island. Along the way you will come by some Buddhist carvings that were engraved by a Tibetan monk to mark the new millennium. You will also come by an old firing range marked by some tall stone structures, a good spot to take a break out of the wind. And if you are very observant you might even come by a Geocashing box too. What I love about the north end is the tranquility and wilderness. You can truly feel at one with nature there.

There are plenty of other areas on the island to explore but those are my favourite spots. I would also recommend checking out the boat trips which will take you on a tour around the island. See https://sarkboattrips.com for more details. Adventure Sark is also worth checking out. They do walking, coasteering and kayaking tours and much more. Check out http://www.adventuresark.gg/ for more details.

Events Worth Going To

While Sark is a small place there are some events worth checking out. Even if you don’t go to them I’m sure you will be amused by some them none the less. Due to Covid 19 I won’t bother putting specific dates down but I will put a rough estimate of when the events are usually held.

Sark 10

For those of you who love a good run Sark 10 is perfect for you. This is a 10 mile race which will take you around the whole island.

Event Date: Usually held in May.

Sark Festival

This is a three day festival held in some fields overlooking the sea. There is a good variety of music including Folk, Rythm, Country, Blues, Reggae and Rock over multiple stages as well as good local food and plenty of other fun activities for people of all ages to enjoy. There is something truly special about going to a festival on such a special island.

Event Date: Usually the event is held in July.

Sheep Racing

Have you ever seen a sheep with a teddy bear riding on its back racing around a little course? Sark Sheep racing is a truly hilarious event and a local favourite. There are plenty of other activities to do as well. To top it off theres some bands that play in the evenings as well.

Event Date: Usually held in July or August.

There are some other great events to go to including a Lawn Mower Race and Boat Building Competition/Race but the dates for these events vary. For more information on what’s on in Sark check out:https://www.simplysark.co.uk/en/events/daterange/-?startdate=2020-05-25&enddate=2020-06-26.

Sark Tips

Finally here are my tips for you if you decide to go to Sark.

2. Bring a Torch

Your phone torch will do but I would recommend bringing a separate one too. At night it is pitch black because there are no street lights and its important to use a torch not just for your sake but for the people around you. After all you don’t want to get flattened by a bicycle because they couldn’t see you!

3. Always Wear Suncream!

I get it, your on holiday and you want a tan but trust me, you will burn really badly if you don’t wear suncream. Due to the lack of pollution in the atmosphere around the island there isn’t anything blocking the sun. The UV is much stronger than other areas around that part of the world.

4. Bring Comfy Clothes

Due to the nature of the island I would recommend packing plenty of comfy clothes so you can comfortably wonder around the island. Remember you will probably spend a lot of your time walking and cycling around the place. It is worth bringing a couple of nice outfits if you decide to go for a nice meal out but apart from that comfy is the way!

5. Bring food (if your on a budget)

The food on Sark, whether its in a restaurant or in the shop is a little on the steep side (expect to pay £15 + for a burger and chips). I would definitely recommend that you eat out and try some of the local seafood during your stay but if you are staying at a B and B or the camp site it might be worth picking up your basic food supplies in Guernsey (There is an M&S supermarket by the port). Saying that French cheeses and wines are relatively cheap due to Sark being close to France (and because its a tax haven) so I would definitely recommend buying those on island.

That concludes my guide to Sark. It was a hard guide to write! I love Sark, its one of my favourite places in the world and I wanted to make a guide that would do it justice. I hope that if you make it out to Sark you will enjoy it as much as I have.