Honouring the woman who led the ‘Messy French Girl’ revolution: Jane Birkin

grace o’brien
5 min readJul 16, 2023

Jane Birkin, the English-French it girl of the 60s and 70s, has unfortunately died at the age of 76. She led a life of fame and stardom, sparking the ‘Parisian Chic’ and ‘Messy French Girl’ crazes prevalent in the media of today. Her timeless looks and open sexuality revolutionised the world of modelling and fashion, with her impact set to maintain a firm grip long after her passing.

Jane’s career in the artistic industries kick-started in 1969 when she began a relationship with the controversial Russian-French songwriter and actor Serge Gainsbourg. Despite their eighteen year age gap, Birkin and Gainsbourg led a relationship of eleven years. The pair first met behind the scenes of the French satirical 1969 film ‘Slogan’, following Serge Gainsbourg’s character and his infidelity with the attractive Jane Birkin. Their relationship resulted in Jane’s breakthrough in the land of fame after their hit song ‘Je t’aime moi non plus’ gained international recognition, despite being banned from various radio stations and the Vatican due to its ‘vulgar’ and ‘sexually suggestive’ nature.

The French love song “Je T’aime… Moi Non Plus” (“I Love You… Me Neither”) features Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg passionately narrating their lovemaking session, which climaxes with Birkin’s moans of ecstasy. It caused such a scandal, it was banned by the BBC – which of course only piqued the public’s curiosity, and it soared to #1 in the UK. Incidentally, it took more than a decade for another BBC-banned song to hit #1 in the UK: “Relax” (1984) by Frankie Goes To Hollywood. (source: songfacts.com)

Birkin and Gainsbourg’s 1969 interview for ‘Cannabis’ and ‘Slogan’ is significant on social media platforms such as Tiktok. This particular interview radiates the ‘Messy French Girl’ aesthetic which many fashionable Tiktok users are eager to replicate. The interview shows Birkin justifying her scandalous love for Gainsbourg, claiming that she takes no notice of the backlash and uses her childhood parrot as a metaphor for her relationship with Gainsbourg.

It suits me fine that everyone finds him horrible. When I was little, I had a parrot who bit everyone but me. He loved me, because I dared tickle him under his wings. He adored me. Everyone said: “How can you love that awful parrot?” I thought: “He’s adorable but I don’t want others to know.” It was my secret. (Jane Birkin in 1969 interview)

Perhaps the most mainstream and modern aspect of Jane Birkin was the holy grail ‘Birkin’ bag. Designed in the 80s by French businessman and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas, the Birkin remains an iconic piece highly sought after in the fashionista world. With international celebrities sporting the accessory, such as American billionaire and reality television star Kylie Jenner owning a grand total of thirteen bags, the Birkin will definitely be remembered and appreciated for the striking cultural impact it has bestowed upon high-end fashion.

The fairytale story of the Birkin supposedly begins with an abrupt upgrade to first class for our protagonist Jane. When she arrives, she is encountered with Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas, clutching her signature wicker basket. As she placed the wicker basket down, her belongings had scattered all across the floor. Dumas considerately aids Birkin in the act of transferring her belongings back into the basket, joking that she needs a handbag with pockets whilst doing so. Birkin replies, “the day that Hermès made a large everyday bag that could hold all the items a busy mother carried, she would give up her signature oversized basket in its favour.”

Dumas, influenced by Birkin’s reasoning, reportedly began to sketch the first ever edition of a Birkin on an airplane sickness bag. And alas, one year later, in 1984 the world saw the precious birth of the beloved Birkin! A spacious and sturdy design, with a convenient lock to ensure that your belongings are kept enclosed. The aesthetics of the Birkin embodied Jane’s personal style perfectly: a casual minimalist bag which also broadcasted her distinct and glamorous flair. She personalised her Birkin bag with stickers, which only paved the way for the ‘used Birkin vibe’ craze, a trend which accentuated the beauty of ‘worn-out’ and ‘used’ bags.

Jane Birkin carrying her signature wicker basket, consequently leading her to becoming the muse of the Birkin.

In Jane’s later years, she was often praised for her interests in political activism. Participating in campaigns and raising money for serious causes, Jane Birkin was recognised for many in France and beyond for her determination and support for such issues. She often campaigned for Amnesty International, a non-governmental organisation focusing on human rights. She openly supported democracy in Myanmar, a country in which pro-democratic individuals are ruthlessly executed by orders of the regime.

“You can always do something. You can say, ‘I’m not okay with that.’” (Jane Birkin)

In 2022, the year prior to her passing, Jane Birkin openly refrained against the oppressive regime targeting the women of Iran by chopping off her hair in an act of support. The chopping of her hair acted as a direct opposition to the brutal slaughter of Iranian woman Mahsa Amini by the morality police.

French President Emmanuel Macron and various other influential people have been swift to express their condolences and reminisce on Jane Birkin’s impact via social media such as Twitter. Macron tweeted:

“Because she embodied freedom, because she sang the most beautiful words of our language, Jane Birkin was a French icon. A complete artist, her voice was as sweet as her engagements were fiery. She bequeaths us tunes and images that will never leave us.” (Emmanuel Macron via Twitter.)

Jane Birkin, a stunning captivating soul and true beauty, a strong political activist alongside an influential woman in the fashion community. Sparking the ‘Parisian Chic’ and ‘Messy French Girl’ aesthetics, she will forever be remembered as a symbol of expression, French fashion and sexuality.

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