Page 2 – Africa Geographic

Hyena royalty returns to Maputo National Park

Apex predators have serious status. The lion lies in first place in the mighty hierarchy of Africa’s food chain – a fair call given their magnificence and top-down significance. But no species exists in isolation; survival hinges on the interplay between each species. Aspiring to this bigger picture, Maputo National Park in Mozambique (declared in 2021, joining Maputo Special Reserve and Ponta do Ouro Partial Marine Reserve) is topping up its scavenger quota, beginning this month with five spotted hyena incoming from Sabie Game Park. Not to oversell the underdogs, this represents another great if unsuspecting, rewilding win for southern Africa. Peace Parks Foundation shares this report.

“Without impalas and hyenas, the lion cannot be the king of the jungle.” – African proverb

For a time, wildlife suffered across Mozambique’s protected areas and, as a result, so did ‘functionality’ – how well the environment could work, by and for itself. Rebuilding this rhythm at scale is a highly sensitive, strategic process since every living thing has its place and dependencies within the system. This includes spotted hyena, previously eradicated in the park, but for a small leftover population. To fix this and restore the balance that comes with a vital scavenging role is precisely what Mozambique’s National Administration for Conservation Areas (ANAC) and Peace Parks have set out to do.

A new age and status for Maputo National Park

Maputo National Park was proclaimed in 2021 after merging Maputo Special Reserve, and Ponta do Ouro Marine Reserve. It forms an integral 1,700km² of the Lubombo Transfrontier Conservation and Resource Area. (To learn more about safaris in this special area, click here.) Remarkably, the park falls within the Maputaland-Pondoland-Albany Biodiversity Hotspot, one of 36 hotspots among Earth’s most biologically diverse and endangered ecoregions. This has been a powerful motivation in presenting it to the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) for assessment and approval as a World Heritage Site, an extension of the adjoining iSimangaliso Wetland Park in South Africa, which already carries World Heritage status.

ANAC, which directs the management of Mozambique’s National Parks and Reserves, and Peace Parks Foundation signed a 15-year agreement in 2018 to restore, develop and manage the park – taking joint responsibility for the health and wealth of its supernature in the wake of a civil war. Among this region’s remaining biodiversity bank were many species needing rehab – and not just the iconic ones.

The art of revival: go big with hyena to go wild

And so began an ambitious wildlife translocation programme to Maputo National Park. The aim is to bring back nature by reintroducing animals historically found in the area. Boosting the recovery of their populations is essential to developing the park as a tourist destination. Still, it is vital to restoring balance and abundance far and beyond the acclaim of re-building the Big Five and friends.

Rewilding began with kudu, impala, giraffe, buffalo, wildebeest, eland, zebra and other plains game species being trucked in. By 2022, 5,101 animals had been successfully translocated into the park from wildlife-plentiful parks and reserves, including 11 species that had become locally extinct. Many are now bouncing back naturally under the renewed protection of the park’s rangers, and thanks to natural animal ‘walkways’ restoring connectivity between historical ranges.

The park’s 2021 aerial census counted more than 12,000 animals, a marker of richness and progress but not necessarily completeness. And so the need has been recognised for the reintroduction of scavengers: the five hand-picked hyenas from Sabie Game Park, a protected area in western Mozambique which shares its borders with South Africa’s iconic Kruger National Park. Sabie can happily and healthily spare a small clan thanks to its wildlife revival.

No rewilding operation is a basic case of shifting species X from A to B. An expertly coordinated and carefully executed plan is tailored to each translocation, often involving multiple teams and partners. The Mozambique Wildlife Alliance, an organisation key to the success of this move and many gone before, makes the vastly complex process of relocating animals safely and smoothly orchestrated. Its vets have seen many a species land successfully in their new homes and go on to flourish. With a quarter of Mozambique declared conservation space equipped with a visionary rewilding outlook and great motivation, their services will be valued here for many years.

When moving hyena, micro-management is required from the start, given the complex hierarchical clan structure. Family ties and hierarchy must be respected for the founder population to get along with each other and their neighbouring kin. The capture is equally complex; successful baiting in the dark depends on duping and doping the suspicious scavengers. Once caught, they are loaded onto vehicles and translocated directly to bomas in Maputo National Park. Resting and refuelling in these holding pens allows them time to build reserves and get new bearings until they’re declared good to go by the vigilant vets and the Maputo National Park conservation team.

Bad-turned-good friends with benefits

With plains game thriving and a prey stockpile mounting nicely, it is now the predators’ time to shine in the park. The spotted scavengers are vital in paving the way for the much-anticipated big cats and helping things run smoothly and cleanly.

The new clan will act in a supporting predation role to the cheetah that is hoped to be introduced soon – and all eyes will be on them as they do. Some of them will have satellite collars fitted pre-release. This data feed, along with the park’s considerable camera trap network, will allow teams to monitor group composition and condition and to understand each individual’s patterns of movement and behaviour.

Their new home is full of hope and opportunity, which is long overdue for a species with a history of coexisting on the edge. It is also a new era richly deserved by a park where dedicated efforts to rewild, protect, connect and sustain already influence entire landscapes and communities within and beyond its bounds. It is a promising prospect for hyenas as they gradually re-establish and extend their range to benefit the entire transboundary tree of life.

Gaining this species which values kinship so highly for its survival, Maputo National Park can be proud to forge this ecological friends-with-benefits relationship between hyenas, humans and ecosystems. It is a testament to the will to revive great spaces and their many wild assets… and uplift the underdog.

“Declare kinship with the hyena, and all hyenas are your friend.” African Proverb.

THIS WEEK

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Best safari month + talking testes + elegant impala

There is a debate going on in our office about the best time to go on safari, and several of our safari experts swear October is the best month for an African adventure. With predators easy to spot at waterholes in southern Africa, fewer crowds at those Mara River wildebeest crossings and warm weather favouring relaxation on the beach, there are plenty of reasons to start planning an October safari now. Read why in our first post below.

And then, as common as mud yet far more captivating, impalas are a staple of any safari experience. Described by ecologist Dr Richard Estes as “the perfect antelope”, impalas are known for their resilience and athleticism. We still enjoy spending time observing herds of these doe-eyed mammals, and our second story below may have you seeing them in a new light.

Finally, the vets at Provet this week are treating one of their tiniest pangolins yet – a newborn pup whose mom clung to him with all her might to protect him from poachers. Read more about our Save a Pangolin campaign and find out how you can help below.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/travel/october-best-african-safari-month
OCTOBER SAFARI
Several of our safari experts view October as the best month for a safari in Africa

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/impala/
ELEGANT IMPALA
Impalas are one of the most common yet remarkable antelope species. We celebrate these doe-eyed safari stalwarts

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From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Let’s talk (briefly) about testicles. In particular, their position in relation to the rest of the body. Those among you that are a) in possession of testicles and b) have ever suffered some kind of trauma to that general vicinity should be able to attest to the fact that their placement makes them vulnerable. And a cursory glance at a galloping buffalo bull should be sufficient to convince you that life could be worse.

Why would nature have designed things so? Thermoregulation, right? We were all taught that the testes hang outside the body to keep them cool for sperm production. But did you know that the reason for external testicles is actually contested in the study of evolutionary sciences? Because we don’t know what came first – cooler testicles or the requirement thereof. And there are plenty of exceptions to the rule. Elephants and rhinos have internal testicles without significant reproductive challenges and, perhaps more appealingly, without wandering around with an additional exposed appendage.

Temperature control aside, there are several competing theories to explain external testes, including a “training” hypothesis, a “galloping” hypothesis and, somewhat entertainingly, a “display” hypothesis. You can read more about the subject here.

PANGOLIN PUP!

Another pangolin pair has been saved by Provet Animal Hospital. A Temminck’s ground pangolin was recently confiscated from the illegal wildlife trade in the Northern Cape. On inspection, local vets discovered she was clutching and protecting her little newborn pup, still wrapped in afterbirth. In extreme trauma situations, pangolins often deliver pups early. She was found with a head wound inflicted by poachers who had attempted to pry her curled body open using a spade.

The pair were then airlifted to Provet for treatment and rehabilitation. Unfortunately, the mother had no milk to offer her pup. The little male had already lost 30g since his initial weigh-in and had extremely low blood sugar levels. Dr Debbie English and her team made the tough decision to separate the mother and pup to give them the best chance of survival.

The team is hopeful that the mother’s wound will heal quickly and she will be released back into the wild soon, while her pup has a very long road of recovery and rehabilitation ahead of him as he needs to be hand-reared. Please donate and lend your support to the hardworking teams who are dedicated to saving Africa’s pangolins.

PLEASE NOTE ALL PANGOLINS ARE HOUSED OFF-SITE AT A SECURE LOCATION FOR SECURITY PURPOSES

WATCH: Go behind the scenes of one of the largest ever animal translocation projects in the world. Watch how African Parks and partners embarked on a project to reinvigorate the elephant population of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve (4:34). Click here to watch

Impala

Ask any safari guide or returning guest about their favourite animal in Africa. The answer is invariably one of the more “charismatic” creatures – lions, leopards, giraffes, elephants and so on. The chances of their saying “impala” are small. Ubiquitous as impala are, these elegant antelope are generally overlooked by all but the most enthusiastic of nature lovers. Yet viewed through appreciative eyes, the impala is one of the most remarkable animals in the African bushveld: doe-eyed, resilient and effortlessly athletic.

Impala basics

In his seminal book on the behaviour of African mammals, celebrated ecologist Dr Richard Estes describes the impala (Aepyceros melampus) as “the perfect antelope”. Though he does not explain his reasons for this sentiment, it isn’t difficult to understand his thought process. Impalas are widespread and abundant throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa and are easily one of the most common antelope species. Moreover, the impala hit upon the perfect recipe early in its evolutionary history. Research shows they have remained relatively unchanged for at least five million years.

While previously believed to be a sister taxon to the hartebeest family, genetic studies have revealed that the impala’s closest relative is the diminutive suni (Neotragus moschatus). However, the impala is the only member of its genus and is the sole member of the Aepycerotini (“high horned”) tribe. Though there is only one recognised species of impala, the black-faced impala (A. m. petersi) of Namibia and Angola is listed as a valid subspecies on the IUCN Red List.

One explanation for their early evolutionary success is the impala’s unfussy approach to sustenance. They are mixed feeders, meaning they will graze, browse, and switch between feeding modes depending on the season. They focus on grasses during the early rainy season, when the grass species are green and still growing, before slowly switching to browsing foliage, shoots and forbs as the dry season progresses. This flexibility in feeding is also seen in different habitats. It confers an unusually abundant and reliable food supply and ensures that the impala ewes generally have sufficient sustenance to produce a lamb yearly.

Impala drinking — Impalas are widespread throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa

An impressive production of new lambs each year is essential, as impalas are a staple prey species for all large predators (including martial eagles and other birds of prey). Mortalities are high year-round, but especially during lambing. Therefore, it is somewhat unsurprising that impalas are alert and observant antelope. Their keen eyes are usually the first to pick out the creeping outline of a stalking leopard or cheetah. If a predator is spotted, the herd will let out a cacophony of sharp barks – unless the predator is a pack of painted wolves, in which case the herd may scatter without so much as a sound. However, research has shown that impalas tend to adopt a “better safe than sorry” approach and may be so jumpy that they give off a false alarm call. Consequently, other animals take the warning vocalisations of impalas less seriously.

The males and females are sexually dimorphic – the rams are larger and sport an impressive set of lyre-shaped horns.

Quick impala facts

Shoulder height:	Males: 75–92cm
	Females: 70–85cm
Mass:	Males: 53–76kg
	Females: 40–53kg
Social structure:	Variable depending on region and season. Mixed herds, bachelor groups and territorial males
Gestation:	194–200 days (six and a half months)
Conservation status	Least Concern

In leaps and bounds

The spring-loaded impalas are undoubtedly one of the most impressive athletes in the animal kingdom, capable of leaping over three metres into the air and covering ten metres in a single bound. They are also exceptionally fleet of foot, capable of reaching top speeds of over 90km/hour. When running from predators, a herd of impalas will explode into a series of spectacular leaps in every direction, cutting in front of each other or jumping over other individuals in a way that makes it more difficult for the attacker to select a target.

These impressive physical displays are poetry in motion and a pleasure to watch, but even the impala seem to enjoy their abilities at times. On cooler mornings, individuals break out into a unique jumping style where the hindlegs are thrown upwards into a “handstand” before rebounding and leaping upwards again. This rocking high jump is still not fully understood and seems infectious – once one goes, many others follow. While impossible to prove, anyone who has ever witnessed impalas bounding about like this would be hard-pressed to deny that they – adults and youngsters alike – seem to be having fun.

Colours, contours and cleanliness

The rufous two-tone coats of the impalas are another distinguishing feature, with the dark fawn-coloured top half contrasting with tan flanks and a white underbelly. This is theorised to be an example of countershading in nature, breaking the pattern of light and shade of a three-dimensional animal. The idea is that the darker dorsal colouration helps disguise ventral shadowing when lit from above and hides the shape of the impala from potential predators. The flank stripe may also visually amplify the vertical leaps of fleeing impalas, making them seem even more impressive and thus deter predators. Interesting but so far unexplained is the astonishing similarity in the colouration of the impalas and the gerenuk – two antelope with no close phylogenetic relationship.

The dark line markings on either side and through the middle of the impala’s tail are likely signalling devices, particularly during a chase. When impalas are running from a threat or displaying stotting (showing off) behaviour, the tail is also raised to expose the fluffy underside, which may help individuals stay together as a group. The black metatarsal glands on the back legs – found only on the impala – are also believed to serve a similar function by releasing pheromones during high stress.

Of all antelopes, impalas are perhaps the most meticulous about grooming. They are also one of the few that engage in both self- and allogrooming (where one individual grooms the other). The loose teeth of the front lower jaw form a functional toothcomb that helps to remove ectoparasites.

A roaring good time

Impala social structures and spatial arrangements vary depending on region and seasonality. In Southern Africa, impalas have a strict breeding season that begins during the dry season and lasts only about a month. This seasonality is governed by decreasing day length. During the rut, the males’ androgen levels increase dramatically, and the physiological effects manifest as a thickening of the neck and enlargement of the testicles. During this time, mature rams are territorial, defending their patch from interloping males and working overtime to keep females herded around them. The impalas of East Africa (which are much larger) often have a more extended breeding season that may last for most of the year. Here the rams usually dispense with territorial defence for only a few months over the dry season.

rams in the rain — Three males on high alert in the rain

These territorial males become single-minded to the point of recklessness, barely stopping to eat, groom, sleep or watch for predators. They produce a loud roaring sound so unexpected from an antelope that more than one safari guest has mistaken it for the terrifying sound of a fearsome predator. These highly-strung rams are far from conflict-averse, and violent clashes and serious injuries are frequent. This constant activity takes a considerable toll on their physical health, and a male will often find themselves ousted by a fitter competitor. This is even more pronounced in East Africa, where the males have to try and maintain territories for longer.

Interestingly, this behaviour is also seen during the lambing season in Southern Africa, albeit less dramatically. There is a corresponding spike in androgen levels in the males, which is still not fully understood, though it is probably related to the pheromones of the females in late-stage pregnancy.

The lambs of spring (well, summer)

There is a prevalent misconception that female impalas can delay the birth of their lambs for up to a month in anticipation of the arrival of the rains. However, this is a physiological impossibility – a ewe cannot control her fetus’s growth, and labour is triggered when the lamb reaches its full size. The arrival of some lambs later in the season can easily be explained by a later conception time – either because the ewe came into oestrus late or the first oestrus did not result in conception. Poor nutrition may also slow the growth of the foetus slightly.

lamb birth — A newborn, fresh out the womb, struggles to its feet. Within minutes it will be walking

In Southern Africa, the lambs are born around November and early December (check them out on your next safari to Greater Kruger), during this region’s “baby season”. A couple of days after birth, the mother will lead her lamb back to the herd, where it will join a nursery with the other newborns. These nurseries may be guarded by a few ewes or even left to fend for themselves for hours each day. When it comes time for the ewe to feed her baby, both mother and offspring bleat frantically until they are reunited. Like all ungulates, the lambs are quick to find their feet, and the sight of them bouncing around and showing off on absurdly spindly legs is utterly beguiling. Play fighting is a common sight, and the male lambs begin butting heads long before their horns grow.

The lambs are weaned as early as four months old, with just enough time for the females to try and recover body condition before the rut begins. To put her life into perspective, an impala ewe is pregnant for over six months, lactating for another four, and then has about a month to herself before the rams start chasing her from pillar to post. She will then fall pregnant again and grow a 5kg lamb during the dry season when available food is at its least nutritious. And, as if this weren’t enough, she can still run at over 75km/hour to escape predators. This should give some idea of the evolutionary marvel that is the svelte impala.

Final thoughts on impala

The next time you happen to find yourself on safari, take a moment to stop with a herd of impalas and spend some time simply observing them. The impala is the one animal you are almost guaranteed to spot on every game drive, so why not take the opportunity to appreciate them?

THIS WEEK

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Trophy hunting exposé + expedition Iona

My opinion editorial in the stories below speaks for itself. We follow the money and shed some light on the opaque trophy hunting industry. This process – of shining a spotlight into dark corners – is essential for any industry claiming to be sustainable and responsible.

It seems like government decision-makers are happy to sell off the last of Africa’s roaming giant tuskers for a relative pittance and set trophy hunting quotas for leopards without the benefit of accurate population stats. That said, they could at least make sure that local people receive enough compensation from trophy hunters to drag themselves out of extreme poverty. One way to achieve this is to enforce transparency, supervision and audits of signed contracts between trophy hunters and communities and the related flow of money.

As usual I am open to interesting discussions and fact-based analysis with anyone that can add to my understanding of the situation – regardless of your opinion.

A responsible safari tip: when you book your next African safari please allocate some time in a remote area not blessed with guaranteed sightings of charismatic species. By doing that, you monetise those areas and so empower local people to tolerate wildlife and to live without trophy hunting as a source of revenue. Just a thought. We are here to guide you through those decisions.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

A few weeks ago I met up with a few dozen well-wishers at Lesedi Cultural Village in Gauteng, who had gathered to see off Kingsley Holgate and his team of adventurers for their 41st expedition into Africa – to much fanfare and ululation. Fed up with stories of doom and gloom around conservation, Kingsley’s Afrika Odyssey expedition team have set out on a journey of purpose to connect 22 protected areas managed by African Parks and showcase their positive stories of hope for the continent. We are pleased to share the first in a series of stories they will tell from the road. Read expedition member Sheelagh Antrobus’s raw and whimsical narrative on the team’s journey to Iona National Park in our second story below.

And then, check out Simon’s Op Ed below as we follow the money on a major elephant hunt in Botswana.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/trophy-hunting-in-botswanas-ng13-we-follow-the-money/
TROPHY HUNTED
We follow the money to reveal how this trophy hunter makes huge profits by not adequately compensating the NG13 communities in Botswana

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/journey-to-iona-kingsley-holgates-afrika-odyssey-expedition/
EXPEDITION IONA
Kingsley Holgate & his Afrika Odyssey expedition team set out to connect 22 parks managed by African Parks. Read about their quest to Iona NP

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From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that, like most young humans, young leopards go through a dumb teenage phase? This is particularly true of adolescent males. Driven by a soup of hormones, youthful curiosity and (I assume) an underdeveloped prefrontal cortex, they may start doing strange things like following lions, stalking rhinos, and even observing people or jumping on cars.

Of course, this “abnormal” behaviour immediately sees them labelled as dangerous or problematic. And when humans permit, encourage, and promote this behaviour, the animal invariably suffers.

The fact this week was inspired by a video doing the rounds of a young leopard in the Kruger that leapt onto the hood of a car and set about investigating the occupants (I will not be promoting it further). It has been widely shared, including by a well-known media platform, without reference to how this behaviour should be discouraged. I continue to be amazed at how people will exploit wildlife for their social media fame. And then, when called out on it, fail to show any humility or admit to mistakes (which we all make).

I cannot believe I have to say this, but please don’t let leopards or other big cats climb onto your car. And for guides, photographers and wildlife “influencers” – please be aware of the message you send out into the world.

The perfect Botswana trip

Nina Chambers and five friends travelled with us on an unforgettable trip to Botswana. She shares feedback on her experience:

“There are a lot of choices to make in planning a safari. Africa Geographic put together a trip for me that gave me the experience I was looking for in a way that I would not have been able to do on my own.

I’ve been dreaming about this trip for years, and the reality was even better than I could imagine. The agent we worked with, Nadia, was absolutely wonderful! She understood what I was looking for, was very responsive with excellent information and answers to our many questions, and all her suggestions for the trip hit the mark perfectly.

Bakwena Lodge was a perfect start… The mobile safari was excellent, and the Chobe River trip and Khwai mokoro were great additions. Moremi Crossing was an excellent cap to the trip.

Africa Geographic tailored the trip specifically to what I was looking for—every component of the trip was thoughtful and demonstrated their knowledge of the services and experiences available. They were very helpful in arranging all the details; I’ve never felt more taken care of than on this trip. Don’t mess around trying to figure this out on your own: work with Africa Geographic to create your perfect trip.”

Feeling inspired to book your next Botswana safari with Africa Geographic? Click here to check out our Botswana classic mobile safari.

WATCH: A once in a lifetime sighting. These safari goers thought they had hit the jackpot when they came across a mating pair of leopards. But the action was only just beginning, as the pair were surprised by one unlucky impala (0:58). Click here to watch

Journey to Iona – Kingsley Holgate’s Afrika Odyssey expedition

Renowned African explorer Kingsley Holgate and his expedition team from the Kingsley Holgate Foundation recently set off on the Afrika Odyssey expedition – an 18-month journey through 12 African countries to connect 22 national parks managed by African Parks. The expedition’s journey of purpose is to raise awareness about conservation, highlight the importance of national parks and the work done by African Parks, and provide support to local communities. Iona National Park in Angola is one of the first stops on their journey. Sheelagh Antrobus shares news from the road.

Follow the journey: see stories and more info from the Afrika Odyssey expedition here.

The Iona challenge

Our first Afrika Odyssey challenge is to cross the continent from the Indian Ocean in the east to where the Kunene River pours into the Atlantic Ocean, and reach the first park on our list: Iona National Park in the southwestern corner of Angola.

In the southern city of Lubango, we meet up with Brad Hansen (veteran of many past expeditions and an ambassador for African Parks) and Ken Wilcox. Ken is the patron of this Iona leg of the expedition, and in support is the larger-than-life Angolan character Stefan van Wyk and his crew of Raol, Fernando and Paulo.

Spirits are high as the adventure begins on the granite cobblestone road to the Tundavala Gap on the rim of Angola’s central plateau. The plateau’s awe-inspiring abyss abruptly drops 1,000 metres, providing endless views over far pavilions of jagged mountains and vast plains stretching down to the Namib Desert and the cold South Atlantic coast beyond.

Iona National Park — The dangerous hairpinned Serra da Leba pass en route to Iona

The big, heavily loaded expedition Land Rover Defender 130s expertly handle the dangerous hairpin bends of the Serra da Leba pass that twists and turns through several climatic zones down to the plateau below, its steep retaining walls covered in colourful graffiti. And then, down on the coast, the pastel shades of the old Portuguese houses mark the port town of Mossamedes.

Here, we’re joined by the African Parks team of Leon Lamprecht (regional operations manager), Iona park manager Pedro Monteroso and new conservation manager Dan van de Vyver – all determined to resurrect and protect Iona. Their enthusiasm is infectious, and they exhibit the same grit and determination as the ancient Welwitschia mirabilis that dot this desert landscape, across which we’re going to zigzag. Stefan leads us to one of the oldest and biggest welwitschias – as large as the Defenders – surrounded by hyena tracks. This ancient, leathery desert plant is reputed to grow only a few millimetres a year and lives for a thousand years or more. We set up a wild camp with the golden glow of the setting sun reflecting off massive sandstone outcrops. We are surrounded by cliffs softly lit by the spotlight from Stefan’s camp kitchen.

An expedition is born

It’s great to see Leon again. We had first met when he was managing Zakouma National Park in Chad, where we had shared many a campfire. This was when we first became fascinated by the success story of African Parks and their ability to resurrect, manage and protect vast tracts of African wilderness, sometimes against seemingly impossible odds. It’s a conservation miracle. In Zakouma, we had met rangers and the tough, experienced anti-poaching units. We learned how, in partnership with the government and local communities, they had stopped the mass elephant poaching in Zakouma by the Janjaweed (the feared ‘devils on horseback’) from neighbouring Sudan.

It was then we decided that one day if the ‘Zen of Travel’ was on our side, we would undertake a journey of hope for Africa’s wildlife by connecting all 22 African Parks-managed areas across the continent. It’s great when a plan comes together. Four years later, we are on this exciting Afrika Odyssey expedition.

The Afrika Odyssey Expedition and Iona teams

Hope and change in Iona

In the morning, with the expedition map stretched out on the Defender bonnet and using the Zulu Talking Stick, Pedro points out what lies ahead across the vast plains, dry riverbeds, rocky mountains and the track down to Foz du Cunene and the Atlantic Ocean.

Crossing into Iona National Park, there’s not another tourist in sight – just us on this journey of discovery. Iona was proclaimed a reserve in 1937 and was upgraded to a national park in 1964. However, as is true for most Angolan parks, the Civil War significantly disrupted the area. Poaching and the destruction of infrastructure have also caused considerable damage to the once-rich park. But now, there is hope and change.

It’s a race against the setting sun to meet ‘Platoon Two’ from the Himba community. They recently passed a stringent training programme to become the eyes and ears of the reaction force that is, under African Parks, bringing new energy and professional management to this area of well over a million hectares – making the rebirth of Iona a recipe for success, just like we had already seen at Zakouma.

We fill up with fuel and water at AP’s Forward Operations Base Camp at Esphinheira. The two original rondavels that had been the park headquarters in the days of Portuguese occupation remain, but now the camp buzzes with activity. In the control room, Leon uses a pointer and maps to show us what it’s taking to resurrect Iona: staff and vehicle movements, water, fuel, supplies, weaponry, personnel, and anti-poaching units. Such control rooms exist in all 22 African Parks stretched across the continent and are at the very heartbeat of the professional management that African Parks brings to the gold standard of running conservation at scale.

Art and glasses

But our visit to Iona is about more than wilderness. It also includes doing community work with the African Parks team. We’ll long remember judging a vibrant, educational wildlife art competition – the kids’ smiles, how beautifully the girls are dressed in their traditional colours. We’ll also remember the delight on the crinkly faces of the elderly at the gift of reading glasses – all part of using this adventure to add to the quality of the lives of others. In Ken’s words, “It gives me a warm feeling and adds meaning to the journey.”

Afrika Odyssey expedition humanitarian work includes provision of reading glasses

We’ll also remember the delightful interaction with the OvaKuvale, the semi-nomadic pastoralists. Women covered in colourful cloth wear ‘Ompata’ – large, square wooden headdresses. Not forgetting the OvaTwa people, believed to be related to the San-Bushmen, who have been in this area much longer than other tribes.

After presenting a homestead with gifts of maize meal, rice and sugar, Stefan explains how the OvaTwa women have adopted the traditional dress of the Himbas, the dominant tribe in the area. Despite their laughter and the kids pulling nervously on Kingsley’s beard, we can see their life is even more of a struggle than others, as they don’t own cattle – the equivalent of currency in this remote, desert region.

On the road again in the heat and the dust, the wreck of an old American Ford sedan on the roadside serves as a reminder of the time when the Portuguese had to pack what few personal belongings they could and make a dash across the desert and use a hurriedly built pontoon bridge to cross the Kunene into the safety of Namibia.

Shifting dunes

We reach the isolated, crumbling police outpost at Foz du Cunene. The cold Benguela Current flows northward along this coast, chilling the air above and producing the fog that is a lifesaver for the fauna and flora of this arid landscape. In the sand, we use a stick to write ‘Foz du Cunene’ and add the first sip-full of water from the Kunene River mouth to the expedition’s symbolic and well-travelled Zulu calabash, to mark the beginning of this Afrika Odyssey.

Kingsley and Leon grasp the Zulu calabash, used to collect symbolic water along the route

Then, it’s a dash up the coast, racing the incoming tide and an adrenalin rush as Ross Holgate, Kingsley’s son, leads us across the high, shifting dunes of the most ancient desert in the world. What an adventure!

We drop down a steep sand track to camp wild again on the banks of the Kunene, with the backdrop of a towering Namib Desert dune glowing red in the late afternoon light. Across the river is Namibia and the Skeleton Coast National Park, which, together with Iona, makes up 50,000km² of land dedicated to trans-frontier conservation.

Iona’s raw wilderness

And so, the adventure continues, following a long, single-track slowly zigzagging through dramatically beautiful scenery, Fairy Circles, said to be the largest on Earth and endless green blobs of Euphorbia virosa that survive in the ancient desert dunes of the Namib. The San people used the milky sap – highly toxic to humans – as an arrow poison for hunting, and the only animal able to stomach the plant were the black rhino that used to inhabit these areas. We see ostriches on the move and the occasional springbok, as Leon points out, on the oldest fossilised sand dunes in the world.

True raw wilderness: massive areas of no people, no mobile phone signal, no Wifi, no laptop, no distant car lights, no aircraft flying overhead… just starlit skies, mopane hardwood coals, the sparks disappearing into the night sky. Just us and these magnificent, primaeval landscapes and the ongoing journey below the rugged Serra Cafema Mountains with their zebra-stripe designs as we follow yet another remote track through the Marienfluss.

Further into our Iona journey, Leon shows us rhino “rubbing stones”, shining with age and patina. Some of them could also have been used by elephants and could be thousands of years old. One can imagine the rhinos of the past wandering up from the nearby river, rubbing ticks off their thick, tough skins on these ageless rubbing stones. We meet an elderly Soba (Himba chief), Mutili Mbendulu, who, at close to 100 years old, still remembers rhinos at the rubbing stones. Using his hands, he expertly describes what a rhino looks like with its two horns and snorting character and clearly remembers features of the big, grey-coloured elephants – how softly they walked on their large, padded feet, flapping imaginary ears and mimicking how they used their trunks. “And then they were all gone,” he says sadly. Victor Agostinho (Iona’s community officer) translates as Leon gently explains that one day, these great animals may return so that the Soba’s grandchildren can see them.

DID YOU KNOW that African Parks offers safari camps (lodges and campsites) where 100% of tourism revenue goes to conservation and local communities? Find out more and book your African Parks safari.

At the village of Kuroko in the buffer zone south of Iona, the local government administrator and staff endorse the expedition’s Scroll of Peace and Goodwill (which is signed with messages from well-wishers along the journey). We follow this with malaria educational work at the district hospital and outlying villages with the support of the Iona community leadership team. Malaria is rife in this area, so pregnant women, and moms with young children, receive long-lasting, insecticide-treated mosquito nets.

(Left) An ancient rhino rubbing post in Iona; (Right) 97-year-old Himba Chief Mutili Mbendulu places a handprint on the Scroll

Wild freedom in Iona

What we’ll all remember about this journey to Iona is the freedom of it all. Our last two nights were wild camping in a mopane grove, and at last light, the smell of freshly slaughtered goat meat being cooked down on the dry riverbed. We’ll remember Chicipissa, the Himba drummer and his yellow plastic container of Canjombe self-brew. We’ll remember the dance of the Himba ladies with red mud ringlets in their ornate hair, the gleam of their red-ochred bodies shining in the firelight and the twirls and the laughter of the girls who so value their traditions.

The Afrika Odyssey expedition also highlights ancient indigenous cultures

Then it’s a race to the border post at Ruacana to cross back into Namibia. Not an official in sight – just some Himba girls in full traditional dress. Finally, the friendly official arrives – down comes his exit stamp with a smile and a thud. And then, on the Namibian side, the rubber snake in the Defender glove box frightens the rather officious Customs official who, fortunately, once she had recovered, saw the fun of it all.

This expedition quest to Iona was a magnificent journey of hope for the future of Angola’s largest national park. Thank you and Muinto Obrigado to all involved in this exciting first chapter of an Odyssey to link all African Parks across the continent.

Ken’s handwritten note in the expedition’s Scroll of Peace and Goodwill for Conservation says it all:

“I would like to thank the Kingsley Holgate expedition team and African Parks for inviting me to participate in this historic expedition across the stunningly beautiful lands of southwestern Angola and the ancient Namib Desert. I have felt honoured to share in this quest for preserving and conserving wilderness lands, wildlife and ancient indigenous cultures and wisdom across 12 countries, 22 parks and over 22 million hectares of land under African Parks management. It is such a privilege to be able to contribute to the success of these efforts. All the Best!” – Kenneth D Wilcox

Members of the Afrika Odyssey expedition wild camp amongst dramatic sandstone cliffs

Bush note for adventurers

A visit to Iona is an excellent extension to a 4×4 overland adventure – especially if you’ve travelled up through Namibia and want to add a true feeling of wilderness to your journey. Angola should no longer be referred to as ‘war-torn’. It has shrugged off its past and is upbeat, optimistic and welcoming. In time, guides will be available to lead adventurers through the infamous Z gap. By visiting Iona, you will be helping to make a difference in resurrecting and conserving the area. Don’t delay – a great adventure awaits you!

Resources

Read about the return of Angolan giraffe to Iona National Park here.

Inspired to head out on your own African safari adventure? Check out these safari experiences here.

Trophy hunting in Botswana’s NG13: we follow the money

Post-publishing amendment (22 August 2023): After this post went live, we received the results of an audit of the Tcheku Community Trust, reflecting significant financial irregularities. The most serious involves the trophy hunter featured below. According to the audit report, the 2022 trophy hunting fee of US100,000 paid by the hunter was about half of the stipulated reserve price. The audit report reveals that the Trust general manager accepted the lower offer from the trophy hunter without the required approval of the Trust Board. This accounts partly for the extremely high gross profit made by the trophy hunter, as revealed below.

NG13 is a remote, largely unpopulated 2,907km² (290,000ha) region in northern Botswana zoned for multiple uses, including photographic tourism and trophy hunting. It shares its 100km northern border with Namibia’s Bwabwata National Park. Much of the boundary fence is broken, resulting in the free movement of wild animals.

This is where Botswana professional hunter Leon Kachelhoffer bagged one of Botswana’s largest elephants in a trophy hunt last year for his client – a giant of a beast and one of the dwindling population of tuskers (elephants with tusks weighing at least 100 pounds each) left in Africa. When we reported on the hunt, we questioned how beneficial this hunt was for local communities in desperate need of a sustainable livelihood. Now we have access to information and figures documenting the likely profit made by Kachelhoffer in 2022 and the scraps that go to local communities.

Trophy hunters — This tusker was killed in NG13 in 2022 by Leon Kachelhoffer and his client. The tusks weighed 201 pounds – making this one of a small and diminishing population of tuskers.

What are the benefits for local people of trophy hunting in NG13?

The people in and around NG13 are few and far between – they eke out a subsistence living from this sandy, arid landscape. The Tcheku Community Trust was established to represent them and to channel revenue from the commercial exploitation of the area via tourism and hunting.

The aforementioned Kachelhoffer has tied up the Tcheku Community Trust in a five-year deal that gives his company, Old Man’s Pan Pty Ltd, exclusive trophy hunting rights. The Botswana government allocates annual trophy hunting quotas to each region, and, in NG13’s case, they are obliged to sell those rights to Kachelhoffer. In 2022, Kachelhoffer paid Tcheku Community Trust the total sum of BWP 1,346,000 (+/- US$100,000) for that year’s quota. The quota included five elephants and two leopards, amongst other species. These are verified figures taken from the NG13 management plan, of which we have a copy.

What are the benefits for the NG13 trophy hunter?

The revenue assumptions per species hunt below are based on information provided by Botswana professional hunters.

Old Man’s Pan Pty Ltd
Trophy hunting NG13 income statement – 2022 estimate

REVENUE FROM NG 13 TROPHY HUNTING	5 elephants – US$ 75,000 each	US$375,000
	2 leopards – US$ 35,000 each	US$70,000
Total revenue (excluding minor species)		US$445,000
DIRECT COSTS
Payment to Tcheku Community Trust	BWP 1,346,000	– US$100,000
Government trophy tax	5 elephants at BWP 70,000 each	– US$26,000
	2 leopards at BWP 50,000 each	– US$7,500
Total costs		– US$133,500
Annual gross profit		US$311,500

Assuming that the quotas remain consistent, Kachelhoffer stands to pocket about US$1,6 million over five years. Add in the likely addition of lions in the future, and his revenue will skyrocket. Not bad off zero long-term or infrastructural investment, and when your only other material costs relate to attending hunting shows to market this and other trophy hunting areas. Note that this revenue estimate excludes what Kachelhoffer charges his clients for accommodation and other services, on which he will also likely earn a margin.

AS AN ASIDE, the surgical removal of Africa’s remaining giant tuskers makes no conservation sense

Current anecdotal estimates indicate that fewer than 100 tuskers remain in Africa (mostly in Kenya, which is free of trophy hunting), of which fewer than 30 are true giants, whose tusks touch the ground. Killing them has no impact on human-wildlife conflict, as these big bulls are not the culprits, and it does not solve Northern Botswana’s ‘elephant overpopulation problem’. NG13 lies within the KAZA Transfrontier Conservation Area, established to enable wildlife – especially elephants – to disperse away from human-wildlife conflict areas. So what is the conservation benefit of hunting the last remaining giant elephants? This is an important question that is unfortunately brushed aside by those who benefit financially and politically from removing the last giant elephants.

I also believe that setting leopard hunting quotas when leopard population estimates are vague at best and often non-existent is absurd and not scientific. Surely the term ‘sustainable utilisation’ cannot be applied when no reliable data exists?

For now, though, let’s ignore the glaring conservation issues and focus on the supposed benefits to local people of trophy hunting in NG13.

It’s clear from the analysis above that local communities receive a financial pittance for their resources. What about the rights, dignity and upliftment of NG13’s people? Menial seasonal jobs and a few servings of meat do not cut it, in my opinion. This is nothing more and nothing less than the plundering of local community resources by hardened wealthy businessmen.

Is this the true face of Botswana’s much-acclaimed ‘sustainable’ trophy hunting strategy? In May 2019, Botswana’s President Masisi justified the decision to recommence trophy hunting by emphasising that local communities will be guaranteed more than just menial jobs and enjoy sustainable wildlife management’s economic benefits. I have no conceptual issue with controlled, sustainable hunting based on sound scientific principles in areas where photo tourism fears to tread – because Africa’s people HAVE to be incentivised to have wild animals in their midst. Otherwise, we will end up like much of the ‘developed’ world – devoid of free-roaming wildlife. But is this how President Masisi envisaged involving impoverished, marginalised communities in the wildlife industry?

Why does the Botswana government allow its people to be taken for a ride and their natural resources to be plundered? What hold do Kachelhoffer and his cronies in the trophy hunting industry have over decision-makers at the local and government level? Why do local people sign these abusive binding contracts? So many questions. But we know that asking the perpetrators and trophy hunting representative bodies is a waste of time – they either ignore us, make legal threats, attack our integrity and/or provide nonsense spin.

To add further dimension to the situation, my sources inform me that some members of the Tcheku Community Trust are accusing its management of embezzling BWP 1.3 Million (about US$100,000) and have requested the District Commissioner to intervene with an audit to trace the missing funds.

I could go on about many aspects of this pillaging of African people and their resources, but I won’t. Hopefully, the abovementioned situation is sufficient to convince you that all is not well and that the decision-makers must step in and root out the rot.

A luta continua …

THIS WEEK

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Untamed Nkhotakota + intelligent giraffes + iconic Kenyan safaris

Every safari client has some form of experience in mind – be it a species, event or activity. Some will request a specific place like a national park – but usually because of the hoped-for experience. Of course an exceptional safari also includes those little golden moments we remember forever – like delicious pressed coffee in Kigali on the way to trek for gorillas and those heavenly snacks served with handcrafted gin slings during yet another stunning Botswana sunset. Crafting epic safaris is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early / late or a few kilometres off course and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity? We seldom receive requests to visit a specific lodge, for example, unless that lodge offers some unique experience. And so every hand-crafted package starts with an experience, and we add accommodation based on budget and luxury preference.

This brings me to answer the question I am often asked by long-standing safari clients. If there was one safari you would suggest RIGHT NOW, what would it be? My reply is this: Big 5, chimps and gorillas in one country. Here’s where and how!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve in Malawi is a captivating land of miombo forests and rivers, teeming with elephants and thriving wildlife. Thanks to efforts by African Parks to revitalise this protected area, Nkhotakota is now an ideal destination for experiencing untamed Africa, away from traditional safari destinations. Read our first story below to help you plan your own adventure to Nkhotakota!

Giraffe are a source of fascination for naturalists and scientists, and a highlight on any African safari. In remarkable new research, scientists have uncovered the surprising fact that giraffes employ statistical reasoning, making strategic choices based on probability. Read our second story below to delve into the magnificent minds of these mesmerising mammals.

Finally, if you’re planning your next African adventure, Kenya is likely high on your list of possible destinations. Kenya is home to iconic favourites such as the Maasai Mara, Tsavo, Samburu and Lamu, and captures the essence of the traditional safari. Read our last post to discover all there is to know about your Kenyan safari.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/nkhotakota-wildlife-reserve/
NKHOTAKOTA, MALAWI
Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is Malawi’s land of miombo forests, vast river networks, ample elephants and revitalised wildlife

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/towering-intellect-how-scientists-discovered-that-giraffe-can-use-statistical-reasoning/
TOWERING INTELLECT
Giraffe are an endless source of fascination for scientists. A new study reveals that giraffes are capable of statistical inference

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/travel/places/kenya
KENYAN SAFARI
Kenya embodies the essence of traditional safari, with ‘Out of Africa‘ nostalgia and a wide variety of things to see and do

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Immerse yourself in Malawi’s best national parks or start your true African experience with a stay on a private concession in Hwange. Chat to our safari experts to craft your authentic tailored safari.

Best of Malawi’s Safari Parks – 10 days / 9 nights – from US$4,115pps
The best-of-Malawi safari takes you to the Big Five havens of Majete Wildlife Reserve, Liwonde National Park and the rugged wilderness of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. Come and find out for yourself and make a real difference where it counts.

Stay at Bomani Tented Lodge, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
Bomani Tented Lodge is located on the vast and wildlife-rich Ngamo Plains in Hwange National Park. Book a four night stay & receive a free, one way, experiential transfer on the elephant express train. Get in touch for more info.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that an almost pure white puppy has been born to a pack of wild dogs in the Kwando region of the Okavango Delta in Botswana? All baby animals are cute (to varying degrees), but this little creature is particularly enthralling. Keep scrolling to see the video of this unusual natural oddity tumbling about with its tiny siblings.

Its pale colouring can probably be attributed to a genetic quirk called “leucism”. The definition for this particular descriptor is fairly broad and encompasses several conditions that cause decreased pigment production in certain areas of the body. It is distinct from albinism, which affects only melanin production and results in white colouring with pale pink/red eyes. (You can read more about leucism, albinism and melanism here.)

The “leucism genes” in the wild dogs of the Okavango Delta have been floating around for generations, though generally somewhat diluted and manifesting as more “golden” individuals. A puppy as white as snow, so to speak, is a rare find indeed.

Supporting rangers

On our forum: This week saw people around the globe paying tribute to rangers on World Ranger Day, 31 July. Rangers play a critical role in conservation. They are custodians of our planet, and their work is crucial in ensuring that we make progress towards achieving global biodiversity targets. On our forum this week, Andrew Campbell from Game Rangers Association of Africa has penned a tribute to the world’s rangers:

“On World Ranger Day, we honour the memory of our fallen ranger colleagues around the globe, acknowledging their unwavering dedication. Our heartfelt tribute goes out to these brave rangers and their families, who have made immense sacrifices in safeguarding our natural world.”

Towering intellect? How scientists discovered that giraffe can use statistical reasoning

Giraffe are an endless source of fascination for scientists and a highlight on any African safari. In recent years, ground-breaking research has revealed the secrets of their complex physiology and unexpected nuances to their social structures. Now, a new study has uncovered another startling revelation: giraffes are capable of statistical inference.

The basis for the methodology of the study (conducted on zoo animals) was simple: in a giraffe’s world, zucchini pieces are okay, but carrot pieces are delicious. The animals were individually presented with two transparent tubs – one with many zucchini and a few carrot pieces and the other with more carrots than zucchini. The experimenter would simultaneously grab one piece from each tub (in view of the giraffe but without the giraffe being able to see what the piece was) and offer both hands to the giraffe. The giraffe then “selected” a hand by touching it and received its reward in the form of a zucchini (ugh!) or a carrot (yum!). Almost unfailingly, the giraffe chose the hand from a tub with a higher proportion of carrot pieces, thus increasing their chances of receiving a carrot.

The next question was whether the giraffe were actually using statistical inference or just comparing the absolute quantities of carrot in each tub. To rule out the latter, the amounts and proportions of carrot and zucchini pieces varied as the experiments continued. The giraffe continued to select the hand with a higher probability of containing a carrot, suggesting they could use the visual evidence of relative frequencies to draw a statistical conclusion. (You can watch a brief video of the various tests here.) The researchers also conducted the experiment without allowing the giraffe to see the tubs, as a control trial to ensure that the animals were not using their sense of smell to guide previous selections.

For a long time, the ability to use probabilities as a reasoning tool had been considered an adult human trait. However, studies in recent decades have shown that very young children (and possibly even infants) have the ability to a certain degree. Similarly, the ability to use statistical inference has been found in great apes, long-tailed macaques and keas (a parrot species found in New Zealand). But all these species have a large brain relative to body size, which led to the hypothesis that large brain size is necessary for complex statistical analysis. Giraffe have a relatively small brain size, so these results disprove this hypothesis. In fact, the authors suggest that such statistical inference might be far more widespread in the animal kingdom than we ever realised.

Either way, this study adds to a growing body of evidence suggesting that giraffe have complex cognitive abilities.

Reference

Caicoya, A. L., Colell, M. and Amici, F. (2023) “Giraffes Make Decisions Based on Statistical Information,” Scientific reports, 13(1), pp. 5558–5558

Further reading

The giraffe is a wonder of evolution and a vital part of Africa’s ecosystems. Read all there is to know about the planet’s tallest creature here.

Giraffe social structure is as complex as elephants’ – consisting of intricate communication, stable kinship and supportive mothering. Read more here.

Read about genetic research on giraffes that reveals evolutionary secrets of how they cope with high blood pressure and maintain bone density.

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve

The matriarch pauses for a moment – trunk raised, head held high – before she takes the first steps into her new home. At the behest of her gentle rumbles, the rest of the herd follows, and, in a few short minutes, the elephants have melted into the woodlands of Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. Where once these woodlands were at risk of falling silent forever, she and her family are there to breathe new life into the reserve. They are the emissaries of Malawi’s wildlife renaissance and the protagonists of Nkhotakota’s bright new chapter.

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve is Malawi’s oldest and largest reserve and encompasses 1,800km² (180,000 hectares) of wild and rugged terrain. It extends east from the edge of the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley and stops just five kilometres short of the shoreline of Lake Malawi. From high in the mountains, rivers and streams plunge inexorably downwards towards the freshwater lake, cutting deep valleys and yawning caverns into the earth before reaching the plains below. In Nkhotakota, these waterways dissect the reserve, weaving through rough outcrops and rock-strewn ridges and bringing life to its inhabitants.

Dense but characterful miombo (Brachystegia) woodland covers most of the reserve, interspersed by dambos (shallow wetlands) and stands of lush grassland, which give way to the thick riverine forest along the rivers. Looming above it all, Chipata Mountain reaches an elevation of 1,614m, with a small patch of rainforest at its peak.

The reserve is surrounded by a substantial population of some of Malawi’s most impoverished people. When it fell into a state of neglect, the abuse of its natural resources was inevitable. Dwindling tourism meant negligible revenue was available for reserve upkeep and security, a vicious cycle resulting in charcoal burning, logging and poaching. From an estimated 1,500 individuals, Nkhotakota’s elephant population numbered just 100 at the start of 2015.

But Malawi’s conservation journey in recent years has been a triumphant one, and Nkhotakota is just one of its successes. Today, the reserve offers the perfect escape for elephant and nature lovers– a rugged piece of Africa at her most raw and beautiful, removed from the indignities of mass commercial tourism.

Find out about Nkhotakota for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

The agents of success

The reserve’s revival can be attributed to a partnership between the non-profit organisation African Parks and Malawi’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife. Buoyed by the success of their work in Majete Wildlife Reserve, African Parks assumed managerial responsibility for both Liwonde National Park and Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve in 2015.

Their first task was to repair the relationship between the reserve and local communities while ensuring the safety of both. Thus, the erection of a fence around the reserve became a priority, which was immediately executed after careful consultation with relevant community stakeholders. Within the perimeters of Nkhotakota, a smaller sanctuary was established as a more manageable region for initial restoration efforts. This inner sanctum has since been extended over 80,000 hectares of the reserve to include the Bua River.

Next came repairs to the reserve’s existing infrastructure and improvements to the road network, along with an overhaul of its law enforcement and anti-poaching efforts. With the help of community teams, law enforcement teams have collected hundreds of wire snares, filled in existing pit traps and confiscated several illegal firearms. Increased staffing and reserve coverage, improved training and upgraded equipment have resulted in a 50% decline in criminal activity since 2015.

There are believed to be over 100,000 impoverished people living within a few kilometres of the reserve’s boundaries, and, for the first time in decades, they are beginning to experience the benefits of their country’s heritage. In 2021, 215 scholarships were awarded to orphaned and vulnerable school children, and every year, around 400 children are brought into the reserve on environmental education outings. Older community members are permitted to harvest park resources (such as palm fronds and wild fruits) in a sustainable manner under the Resource Use Programme, the rules of which are implemented in agreement with local leaders. The Nkhotakota District Community was also established to discuss the reserve, conservation, and human-wildlife conflict and as a platform for residents to air their views.

500 (ish) elephants

No two parks are the same, so management plans must adopt an adaptive and comprehensive long-term vision. With Liwonde and Nkhotakota, African Parks inherited two regions with vastly different challenges. Historically, Liwonde had always supported a very healthy population of elephants, and with increased park security, it was proliferating and placing pressure on the park’s ecology. So too, in Majete, elephants were flourishing. But Malawi is a relatively small and densely populated country with scant options for wildlife corridors and dispersal. So it was that the historic “500 Elephants” operation was conceived.

From July 2016 until August 2017, over 520 elephants were translocated from Majete and Liwonde to Nkhotakota. Like proverbial ducks to water, the elephants quickly adapted to their new home. Even before the operation was complete, newborn elephant calves were taking their first stumbling steps in Nkhotakota. There are now well over 620 elephants in the reserve, filling the woodlands with the sounds of cracking branches and trumpeting once again.

And thousands more

Several thousand tonnes of transported pachyderm and a red-headed royal hogged the media limelight at the same time that 2,000 other animals, including sable antelope, eland, impala, buffalo, waterbuck, impala and warthog, made the journey to restore Nkhotakota’s wildlife.

Several canny but increasingly relaxed leopards have gradually revealed themselves to lucky guests. A camera-trap project recently confirmed the presence of roan antelope and honey badgers, which were believed to be locally extinct. And for the chiropterphiles (we know this is not a word, but there should be a word for bat enthusiasts), Nkhotakota is the only place in Malawi where the lurid orange rufous trident bat can be spotted. Naturally, the return of other iconic animals such as black rhino, lion, cheetah and African wild dog (painted wolf) is a distinct possibility.

280 bird species have been recorded in the reserve, but this number is expected to increase dramatically with further exploration. For birders, discovering a previously unrecorded species must undoubtedly be an attractive prospect! As would the search for the Taita falcons believed to be breeding along the escarpment.

A half-collared kingfisher perched above the river

Explore & stay

A charm can be found in Nkhotakota which few wild spaces offer. Its austere beauty, tumbling rivers, and dappled paths are an escape to a piece of untamed Africa that is far off the traditional safari track. With the hard work of African Parks and Malawi’s burgeoning popularity as a safari destination, there is little question that the reserve’s future is bright. To be able to experience a part of that journey and to see and feel conservation happening around one in real-time is undoubtedly a privilege.

While game drives are an essential part of the experience, being on foot in the company of expert guides is the best way to explore the untrammelled wilderness. For those feeling particularly energetic, it is also possible to hike up Chipata Mountain and breathe in the majesty of this unique reserve. At certain times of the year, it is possible to follow the path of the Bua River by canoe.

For all its wild feel, there are lodges in Nkhotakota on par with any high-end luxury lodges across the continent. These are discretely hidden in the woodlands, facilitating a total immersion and escape to nature. For those travelling on a tighter budget, there are campsites, and the reserve permits self-drives. Alternatively, Livezi Camp is a self-catering camp featuring four ensuite tented chalets (canvas and stone) that sleeps 8-12 people in total (up to 3 per tent). The thatched central area – dining and kitchen – overlooks the non-perennial Livezi River.

Exploring the winding waterways of Nkhotakota is a wonderful way to experience the reserve.

The best time to visit is during the dry season, which runs from April to October, as the animals are drawn to available water. However, September and October can be sweltering and are best combined with a few days of cooling off in the waters of nearby Lake Malawi. The heavy rains from November until March can damper activities, but the spectacular storms over the escarpment or the lake are breathtaking.

Check out this video on Nkhotakota:

Final thoughts

Of the many attractive attributes of Malawi’s Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, its elephants are the true stars. Not only is their history a testament to the work and commitment involved in Malawi’s wild spaces, but their presence is symbolic of the triumphs to come.

THIS WEEK

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Nairobi National Park + captivating genets + big-cat safari

I had a reality check a few days ago during a discussion with our scientific editor Jamie – about the introduction of Southeast African cheetahs to India to replace the locally extinct Asiatic cheetah. During teamAG discussions, I had expressed concern about swapping out different subspecies in the name of conservation. Surely that amounts to moving against nature’s long-term intention via evolutionary processes? My line was drawn in the sand. Then Jamie pointed out that the recent introduction of southern white rhino into Garamba National Park (DRC) to replace the extinct northern white rhino – which I supported – amounts to the same thing. Touché Jamie!

As an aside, you can use the search function on our website to access our vault of fascinating natural history articles and safari information going back many years. Oh, and it’s free of charge. Did you know that we have been around since 1991? What a journey!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

The image of a lion bounding across the savannah juxtaposed against Nairobi’s cityscape may seem surreal. But this is exactly the sighting awaiting visitors to Nairobi National Park, directly pressed up against Kenya’s capital city. This park is no less wild than some of Kenya’s more renowned offerings. The park provokes a poignant metaphor of wildlife and man, and the effect is a safari experience unlike any other. Keen to visit this unique landscape, suspended at the interface of wilderness and civilisation? Read our first story below.

Most safari-goers have had the pleasure of encountering a genet while out on a game drive, or even back at camp, hanging out near humans to try to scavenge tasty morsels pinched from the dinner offering. While they are frequently spotted, genets are no less captivating. These solitary, cryptic animals are beautiful and graceful to behold. Read all about these cat-like carnivores in our second story.

In our last post, we delve into a rather novel way to experience the delights of Africa: the mobile safari. Can you see yourself returning from the day’s safari activities to a brand new destination every day? On a mobile tented safari, a seasoned support team will be there to pamper you and move your mobile tented camp from location to location while you are out there exploring. Read more about this authentic safari concept below.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/nairobi-national-park/
NAIROBI NP
In the heart of Kenya’s capital, wilderness meets civilisation in Nairobi National Park

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/genets-of-africa/
GENETS OF AFRICA
Genets are cat-like carnivores of Africa, frequently spotted on safari

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/travel/experiences/mobile-safari
MOBILE SAFARI
Mobile tented safaris are an authentic way to travel across African landscapes

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Immerse yourself in Greater Kruger’s big cats, or soak up the soothing tranquility of the Cape’s Cederberg Mountains with these delightful offerings. Our travel team is waiting to assist!

Sabi Sands big-cat safari with Jamie Paterson – 6 days / 5nights – from ZAR 69,285 pps
Join our scientific editor & NatGeo Wild guide Jamie Paterson for a limited-offer safari in the Sabi Sands, Greater Kruger. With a maximum of just 6 guests and exclusive use of Jaci’s Sabi House, this intimate trip is designed to make the most of this big-cat paradise. Track down lions or spend hours getting to know an individual leopard as Jamie offers her insights into the wonders of her old stomping ground.

Simbavati Cederberg Ridge, Western Cape, South Africa – Stay 4, Pay 3 special offer
Simbavati Cederberg Ridge is a luxury wilderness lodge, with panoramic views of South Africa’s Cederberg Mountains. Here you will find untamed open spaces and charming rural hospitality, a two-hour drive from Cape Town. With this Stay 4, Pay 3 special (valid until 20 December 2023, and from 8 January – 20 December 2024), you can experience this raw and rugged wilderness. Experience the Cederberg’s famous hikes, spring flowers and sandstone rock formations by booking your stay now.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Since Simon brought it up, did you know that the division of living things into species/subspecies is one of the most controversial points of contention across all ecological fields of study? Feathers have flown in ornithological circles, entomologists bug each other on the subject and don’t even get me started on microbiologists. Insults like “lumper” and “splitter” (possibly coined by a botanist colleague of Darwin) are bandied about without concern for hurt feelings.

Because the distinction between species and subspecies is complicated by so many factors: geographical isolation, differences in genetic sampling approaches, politics…Some scientists have even posited that one’s approach to the matter is influenced by individual personality.

However, it is a subject that poses some important philosophical questions about the conservation of large-mammal species. When we seek to protect subspecies, what is the priority? Their genetics, morphology, ecological role or simply their intrinsic value? Because that will influence the decisions we make on everything from translocations to making little inbred test-tube babies.

WATCH: Wish you were here? Make your African safari dreams a reality with us. Choose from our carefully curated safari packages or customise your own adventure with our travel team. Why wait? Start planning your perfect trip now! (00:58). Click here to watch

Genets of Africa

For an entirely terrestrial animal, it is astonishing how genets seem to embody the very essence of water. Perhaps this seems a somewhat tortured comparison, but there is no other way to describe how these lithe little predators flow over obstacles, up trees and through the undergrowth. Though frequently encountered on safari (albeit usually just a brief glimpse), few realise how diverse the genet family truly is.

A genet-ic confusion

In fairness, one might be forgiven for failing to keep track of the complexities involved in genet taxonomy – even the scientists are still battling to get it right. Genets belong to the Viverridae family, with civets as their closest relatives. But the viverrids (genets and civets), mustelids (badgers and otters) and herpestids (mongooses) have always presented something of a taxonomic imbroglio for experts. For now, suffice to say that the IUCN Red List currently recognises 14 species of genet that slink, bound, and prowl across the continent. However, this list is likely to increase, and genetic and behavioural research has already identified at least three genets due to graduate from subspecies to a fully-fledged species classification.

Before the DNA technologies that have made such phylogenetic calls infinitely easier, the historic confusion surrounding the viverrids could be attributed to their mixed-bag morphology. Genets look for all the world as though a cat and a mongoose became entangled in an amorous muddle a few thousand years ago. Their bodies are indisputably feline, albeit with shorter legs and longer tails, but their facial features are sharp and mongoose-like. This only shows how decidedly deceptive looks can be because, while genets are indeed family cousins of the mongooses, they are more closely related to hyenas than cats.

Whatever their species and subspecies status, most genets are all but identical at a cursory glance. They all have a black dorsal stripe, spotted coats, banded tails and high-set oval ears. With needle-sharp teeth and a pounce to rival any African felid, these nocturnal little predators spend their nights terrorising tiny mammals, birds, and reptiles on the ground and in the trees (or begging chop bones from delinquent lodge guests).

Spot the difference

Of the 14 recognised species, the rufous-coloured servaline genet (Genetta servalina), the not-actually-all-that-big giant forest genet (G. victoriae) and the mysterious but presumably piscivorous aquatic genet (G. piscivora) all inhabit the Central African rainforests of the Congo region. The delicate Hausa genet (G. thierryi), the obscure Bourlon’s genet (G. bourloni), the vulnerable crested genet (G. cristata), pardine genet (G. pardine), the Johnston’s genet (G. johnstoni) and the long-missing (but probably not extinct) king genet (G. poensis) all occupy West Africa. The Ethiopian genet (G. abyssinica) lives up to its name by inhabiting Ethiopia (and Eritrea, Somalia, Djibouti, and Sudan), and the miombo genet (G. angolensis) wanders the woodlands of Angola, Zambia and southern Tanzania. The Cape genet (G. tigrina) is restricted to the southern and eastern regions of South Africa.

The common genet (G. genetta) theoretically has the widest distribution of all species, extending across most of Africa and is the only species to occur outside of the continent, in southwestern Europe and the Middle East. It is closely followed by the large-spotted genet (G. maculata – also called the rusty-spotted genet), also found throughout most of sub-Saharan Africa.

The observant among you will have noticed the glaring omission of the small-spotted genet from the list. That is because, for now, the small-spotted genet is still officially considered a subspecies of the common genet. This could potentially come as a rather devastating realisation for southern African guides who have spent their careers double- and triple-checking which of the two species usually has the black tail tip (it’s the large-spotted, by the way) when hurriedly trying to distinguish between the two by the light of a spotlight. The good news is that the South African small-spotted genet (soon to be G. felina) is one of the three genets that will likely soon be recognised as separate species. The same goes for the Letaba genet (G. letabae), previously a subspecies of the large-spotted genet (happy news, but for those tasked with distinguishing the various individuals!)

Both the common and the large-spotted genets are believed to be “superspecies” comprising several valid species as yet unknown to science. This would explain their extensive distributions and makes it likely that there are far more genets in Africa than we realise.

A genet by any name (will still smell)

With the possible limited exception of the aquatic genet (of which almost nothing is known), the genet species all occupy a similar ecological niche as small and adaptable predators. Their palate is diverse, and while they are capable and ferocious hunters, they will readily scavenge and consume seeds and fruits. Most hunting and foraging activities are conducted on the ground, but genets are equally at home in the trees and generally opt for arboreal hiding spaces where possible. Apart from mothers and kits, they are strictly solitary and most active just after dusk and before dawn.

Genets are naturally cryptic animals, making the study of their behavioural nuances challenging. Olfactory communication appears to be the cornerstone of their social interactions, and they have well-developed scent glands on the flanks, hind legs and perineum. The pheromones in the exceptionally pungent secretions communicate the usual combination of sex, social and reproductive statuses to other genets. The males also mark home ranges with urine spray, and both sexes contribute faeces to specific latrine sites. Genets also use body language cues and a variety of vocalisations, from “chirps” and purrs to growls and hisses.

Kitted out genets

The courtship dance of genets seldom observed in the wild is a brief but sinuous affair. The male follows enthusiastically behind the female as she slinks in random circles and patterns. Around 70 days later, the female will seek out a suitable tree hollow or burrow and give birth to up to four babies (known as genet kits), each weighing less than 100 grams. They begin to eat solid food at around six weeks old but will only start hunting for themselves by about four months.

Though the kits grow quickly, theirs is a scary and wild world, and everything from owls to leopards are potential threats. Those that survive promptly learn to stay close to cover and dash between hidey holes, so sightings of genets are usually fleeting. The exception to this occurs around human habitation and lodges, as they are quick to habituate to the presence of people and may even begin to associate these areas with an abundance of food and a (relative) absence of predators. Many a safari guest is treated to the sight of a genet curled in the rafters of the thatch or padding insouciantly through the dining area.

A young genet kit takes refuge in a tree

Pet genets

As with many of Africa’s small- and medium-sized (and even, on occasion, large) predators like servals and otters, there is a well-established but ever-increasing trend of keeping genets as exotic pets. While the majority of genet species populations are considered stable, and the pet trade does not threaten them at this stage, the practice of keeping wild animals in domestic situations almost invariably ends poorly for the animal. Young kits are cuddly and affectionate, as is natural for most mammal babies. However, as they mature, adult genets revert to their solitary state and may become aggressive, particularly around food. They also retain the instinct to scent mark and are subjected to invasive surgeries to remove the offending scent glands. Robbed of natural expression of their wild inclinations, pet genets often become neurotic and may even self-mutilate from anxiety and boredom.

Final thoughts

A wild genet, viewed in its natural habitat, is a beautiful and graceful creature to behold (to book your African safari and spot genets in the wild, click here). The fluid movements of their lithe and agile forms, combined with alert and intelligent eyes, make them one of the continent’s more captivating offerings.

Further reading

Check out this rare sighting of a melanistic genet in Kafue National Park.

See bizarre camera trap images of genet hitching a ride on a buffalo – and also on a rhino!

Nairobi National Park

It’s an iconic yet incongruous image: a lion strolling on rolling grasslands, all attitude and defiance against the backdrop of the shimmering sprawl of a city’s skyline. In the heart of Kenya’s capital, Nairobi National Park is one of Africa’s most unique landscapes, suspended at the interface of wilderness and civilisation. No other protected space engenders this deeply poignant metaphor of wildlife and man, and the effect is a safari experience unlike any other.

Nairobi National Park

Nairobi National Park is exactly what the name suggests – a national park pressed against a capital city. Some of Nairobi’s busiest road networks run along the northern boundaries, and the runway of Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is less than five kilometres from the park’s fence. Schools, shopping malls and every conceivable modern convenience lie just a stone’s throw from an open savannah where prides of lion stalk through the grass and herds of wildebeest and zebra migrate with the seasons.

Herds of wildebeest and zebra migrate with the seasons

Apart from the intrinsic convenience of such an arrangement, it is the bizarre cognitive dissonance that attracts the park’s annual flood of visitors. This is no zoo, and the animals are as wild as those of the rural regions more often associated with traditional safari fame. Moreover, though the 117km² (11,700 hectares) park is small compared to other Kenyan giants like Tsavo East and West National Parks or the Maasai Mara National Reserve, it punches far above its weight in historical and conservation value.

For fairly obvious reasons, the entire northern curve of the reserve, including the western and eastern edges, is fenced where it abuts the city. However, the southern boundary, which follows the undulating Mbagathi River, is open to the Kitengela Game Conservation Area to the south. The animals can move in and out of the park through a wildlife corridor stretching to the Athi-Kapiti Plains to the southeast. Nairobi National Park thus forms a vital aspect of the greater Athi-Kapiti ecosystem, allowing for the seasonal migration of many of Nairobi National Park’s animals.

Nairobi National Park — A giraffe strides along the Nairobi skyline

Kifaru’s Ark

Seemingly unperturbed by their proximity to civilisation, the park’s wildlife thrives in the surprising diversity of habitats available, including rolling plains, lush forests, marshlands and stretches of riverine valley. Of the Big 5, only elephants are absent, and the park’s black rhinos are probably the most celebrated residents (to find African safaris that offer the whole Big 5 experience, click here). There are few places in Africa where the chances of encountering a black rhino are as high as in Nairobi National Park. According to Kenyan authorities, the park is home to around a hundred of these endangered pachyderms. Southern white rhinos are present as well, though in smaller numbers, and the park’s success in rhino conservation has earned it the nickname “Kifaru (meaning ‘rhino’ in Swahili) Ark”.

The IUCN Cat Specialist Group recognises the park as a Lion Conservation Unit. At the latest count, over forty lions are wandering the park’s confines. Cheetahs and leopards are less frequently seen, and encounters tend to be fleeting. However, their smaller spotted cousin, the serval, is a common sight. Nairobi National Park is considered one of the best parks in Kenya for these magnificent little hunters. Time spent with servals is guaranteed to be rewarding as they are almost constantly on the move, usually hunting for rodents and birds in the long grasses. Watching the spring-loaded pounce of a serval in action is wild poetry in motion.

Long-limbed giraffes and ostriches delicately pick their way across the plains, outcompeting distant skyscrapers to dominate the horizon while herds of eland nibble through the open woodlands. Impalas, hartebeests, gazelles (Thomson’s and Grant’s) and zebras are ubiquitous, and hippos and crocodiles lurk in the park’s rivers and dams. As evening draws in, the whoops of spotted hyenas and howls of black-backed jackals set up the nightly chorus, cloaking the sounds of the city and creating the impression of a wilderness far removed from humanity’s mark.

Kenya’s many migrations

Kenya is famed for the Maasai Mara section of the Great Migration – an annual circular journey of nearly two million wildebeests and zebras endlessly searching for fresh grazing. However, few people realise that East Africa was once home to several migrations and animal movements as the seasons and rainfall dictated water availability and food abundance. As is the case for thousands of ecosystems across multiple continents, humanity’s relentless growth and development put paid to these ancient cycles as fences, roads, and cities sprung up to block their paths.

However, some of these migrations still occur on a far smaller scale. One such example is the movement of animals from Nairobi National Park to the plains of Athi-Kapiti and beyond. During the wetter months, herds of wildebeest, along with an assortment of other antelopes and zebras, disperse across the open plains of Athi-Kapiti. As the rain dries up and the long dry season sets in, many of these animals travel back north to the reliable water points in Nairobi National Park.

Gauging the historic routes and scale of all-but-extinct animal migrations is a complex exercise, often involving no small amount of guesswork. Though impossible to know for sure, it is likely that the Athi-Kapiti migration once consisted of vast numbers of animals (including elephants) and saw wildlife moving all the way north past Nairobi to the permanent streams flowing off Mount Kenya. Sadly today, the Athi-Kapiti migration has all but virtually collapsed due to habitat loss and fragmentation. The thousands of wildebeest seen in the park at the end of the 20^th century are down to just a few hundred. Yet migrations are known to recover when obstructions are removed, and nascent Kenyan conservancies hold much promise for maintaining wildlife corridors.

A small herd of Coke’s hartebeest, known locally as a “kongoni”

Free as a bird

Less restricted by terrestrial impediments, the annual migration of bird species to Nairobi National Park continues largely unabated. The birding in the national park is even more impressive than the diversity of mammal life. An astonishing 520 bird species have been recorded – one of Kenya’s highest counts of any national park. Iconic Kenyan grassland species like the oddly stylish secretary birds and loquacious yellow-throated longclaws abound, and flocks of flamboyant grey-crowned cranes are commonplace. Jackson’s widowbirds, lesser falcons, Madagascar pond-herons, corncrakes and even the occasional shoebill: with the diversity of habitats on display, it is not impossible for keen birders to rack up a checklist of 200 different species in a day.

Explore & stay in Nairobi National Park

Want to go on safari to Kenya and Nairobi National Park? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

There are three public campsites in Nairobi National Park for adventurous souls. Still, many of its visitors opt to take advantage of the proximity to Nairobi and select one of the more luxurious lodge options on the park’s periphery. Alternatively, some choose to stay in the city and immerse themselves in Nairobi’s vibrant (if occasionally chaotic) atmosphere.

The park’s small size means it can be easily explored in a day, but the natural kaleidoscope of plant, bird and animal life ensures that extended stays are never dull. The remaining migrating ungulates return to the park during the long dry season from late June until October, making this the best time for wildlife viewing. However, the park is generally accessible throughout the year.

Within Nairobi National Park, there are several unfenced picnic sites to stop for a few hours, absorb the ambience and munch on some brunch (nothing builds an appetite like an early morning safari). One such picnic area can be found at the park’s most popular attraction: the Ivory Burning Site Monument. Here the Kenyan President, Daniel Arap Moi, set fire to twelve tons of ivory in 1989. The image of the burning tusks made headlines worldwide – a profound and powerful statement of conservation intent from the Kenyan nation. Since then, several stockpiles of seized ivory and rhino horn have been set alight as a commitment against poaching.

After a meaningful but emotionally taxing visit to the Ivory Burning Site, a trip to the world-famous David Sheldrick Trust’s wildlife orphanage may be in order. Here visitors are treated to the opportunity to meet hand-reared baby elephants and, occasionally, rhino orphans before they are deemed old enough to be released back into the wild. The nearby Giraffe Centre also offers a close encounter with endangered Nubian giraffes (also termed Rothschild’s giraffe under a different classification approach).

Find out about Kenya for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

Over forty lions are present in Nairobi National Park

Final thoughts on Nairobi National Park

Aside from its proximity to the conveniences of modern life and a host of unusual attractions, there is something far more to the appeal of Nairobi National Park. The fact that it lies against a capital city does not mean the safari experience is inauthentic.

Further reading

Have a look at Wildebeest migration routes under threat to learn more about East Africa’s less well-known migrations.

THIS WEEK

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Bush & beach + vultures released + everything Mara

It’s almost August – prime safari season – when we get all twitchy to head out. Oh, the smell of wild sage, those epic dusty sunsets and dawn choruses. AND a last-minute special offer has landed on our desks!

Fancy 11 days (21-31 August) on a fully catered mobile safari in Botswana – touring Moremi, Khwai, Savute and Chobe Riverfront? How about tracking the big cats and wild dogs across the dry savanna, gliding silently down meandering Okavango Delta waterways in search of glittering birds and drifting along Chobe River seeking the large elephant herds?

Due to a last-minute cancellation, the price of this prime-season safari in paradise has been slashed – and there is no single-person supplement! If you need convincing about how special this experience is, read this client review and my account of a few legs of this safari. More details under the Travel Desk.

Contact our passionate safari experts to discuss this opportunity. Safari njema!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

A few weeks ago, curious conservationists and vulture lovers gathered to witness an incredible spectacle just outside Hoedspruit, near Greater Kruger. A number of vultures, treated after surviving a mass poisoning event, were set to be released back into the wild. A few members of teamAG stood by to watch these lucky vultures crash out of their crates and dart towards freedom – all thanks to efforts by the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT). Our first story below highlights the plight of these vultures, and the innovative new vulture ambulance launched by the EWT.

Choosing between bush or beach for a holiday break can be a conundrum that tears friends and families asunder. Witness wildlife in action or relax on Africa’s sandy beaches? Luckily, we’ve found the solution: seven incredible African destinations that offer the best of both worlds, allowing you to explore the bush in the morning and head to the ocean or inland lake in the afternoon. Check out our second story below.

The Maasai Mara is one of Africa’s most popular safari destinations. Countless visitors are drawn to the Mara River crossings during the wildebeest migration season, while others choose to seek out the incredible wildlife action taking place in the low season. For everything you need to plan your next Maasai Mara safari, check out our third post below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/vultures-successfully-released-after-poisoning-incident/
VULTURES RELEASED
Vultures are in crisis, threatened by human-wildlife conflict and poisoning events. See how organisations like EWT are saving vultures

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/one-stop-bush-and-beach-safari/
BUSH / BEACH
Bush or beach? There’s no need to choose, with these African safari destinations offering the best of both

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/travel/places/maasai-mara
MAASAI MARA
The Maasai Mara is one of Africa’s most famous landscapes and attracts visitors from near and far

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Fancy a last minute special on a fully catered mobile safari in Botswana? Or a special offer that will have you on the beach before the end of September? Read on, and reach out to our travel team now.

Botswana Classic – Fully catered mobile safari – Special rate – US$5,130pps
Explore all of northern Botswana on a fully catered mobile safari. Beginning in Maun and ending in Kasane and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River. Book this authentic Botswana safari experience today and don’t miss out on this last minute special high-season rate of US$5,130pps, valid from 21-31 Aug 2023. Only 6 spots left!

Stay at Thonga Beach Lodge, KZN, South Africa
Thonga Beach Lodge is a luxury beach lodge that lies deep in South Africa’s iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Expect white beaches, blazing corals and freshwater lakes in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Get in touch and don’t miss out on this stay 4, pay 3 special offer – valid for September 2023 only.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

As a general rule, I avoid repetition when it comes to the facts I select for our newsletter each week. However, I simply couldn’t resist this week – partly due to the fortuitous timing but mainly for the beautiful irony.

Last week, I spoke about the link between the shape of birds’ beaks and the nesting material they select. One thing I failed to mention was that some bird species fortify their nests with a barrier of spears in the form of thorns, spines and even, on occasion, barbed wire. But here is the irony: in Europe (and probably many other parts of the world), it has become popular to use “anti-bird” spikes to deter birds from sitting in trees or on buildings. Without putting too fine a point on it, the intention is to stop them from defecating on whatever happens to be below.

In a laughable turn of affairs, did you know that Eurasian magpies have been found using these anti-bird strips as nesting material? They have taken these horrendous representations of our disconnect from nature and turned them into works of art. I love it.

An exceptional Kafue wilderness experience

Ulrike Krocker, who recently travelled with us to Kafue National Park, shares the highlights of her safari:

From the moment I was met at Lusaka till I arrived back from my stay at Kafue National Park, everything was perfectly organised.

Fig Tree Camp captured me with it’s charm and dedicated staff and inspired “Out of Africa” moments. At Mukambi Lodge I loved my tent with a balcony facing the river. The wildlife sightings continued daily, but the highlight was witnessing hunting wild dogs. During my six days I counted 19 individual lions. I did not count the hundreds of pukus and many other antelope species, elephants, numerous crocs, and hippos that we spotted. And of course we marked the obligatory leopard off our list too.

A big thank you to all the people who made this wonderful safari possible!

Feel inspired to book your next safari with Africa Geographic but hesitant to book a solo safari? Not to worry, teamAG have some advice for you.

WATCH: David Daballen is an ambassador and warrior for elephants. During the past 20 years, he’s been involved in more than 100 collaring operations. In this video, the Tusk Award celebrates David’s work with elephants as he continues to advocate for the importance of wildlife corridors (03:55). Click here to watch

Vultures successfully released after poisoning incident

On a bright clear day in July, just outside the small bushveld town of Hoedspruit, members of the public (including several members of teamAG) gathered to watch the release of rehabilitated vultures back into the wild. It was a joyous moment for the crowds as 10 birds (six white-backed, one lappet-faced, one hooded, and two Cape vultures) launched themselves from their crates and took to the skies. But these vultures were the lucky ones – eight of these had survived a mass poisoning event that claimed the lives of one bateleur, four lions (including three cubs), and 45 vultures.

The surviving vultures owe their lives to the concerted efforts of the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) Birds of Prey Programme Lowveld team. On the 16th of June, 2023, John Davies and Dr Lindy Thomson responded to a report of a poisoning incident in the Greater Kruger area. The first two white-backed vultures were found in grave condition just before darkness descended and rushed to Moholoholo Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre (Moholoholo). The next day, the rescue team (now supplemented by SANParks rangers, SANParks Honorary Rangers and veterinary professionals) continued the search over several gruelling hours, scouring the area and carrying critically ill birds back to the EWT’s specialised Vulture Ambulance. Ultimately, six white-backed vultures, one lappet-faced vulture and one hooded vulture made it to Moholoholo to be rehabilitated over the next two weeks.

Vultures in crisis

Poisoning incidents such as this are devastatingly common, especially in high-risk areas such as the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (which includes the Kruger National Park and surrounding reserves). Since January 2019, 796 vultures have died in this region.

Vultures in Africa are in crisis. Since the early 2000s, populations of most species have plummeted, with some populations declining as much as 97% in just a few short decades and many on the verge of collapse. Though habitat loss and fragmentation, collisions with powerlines and wind turbines, nesting disruption, and lead poisoning (from lead-based ammunition used in hunting and culling) are all contributing causes, mass poisoning events have the most destructive consequences for local populations. Depending on the time frame and the size of the poisoned carcass, one such incident can claim the lives of hundreds of vultures at a time. To date, the largest known mass vulture mortality event occurred in Guinea-Bissau in 2020 and resulted in the deaths of over 2,000 vultures.

The poisonings are usually motivated by the trade of vulture parts for ritual and religious use (or bushmeat consumption, depending on the region). Across sub-Saharan Africa, but especially in Southern and West Africa, vultures are valued for their use in traditional medicine. They are utilised to treat various physical and mental ailments and provide clairvoyant powers, good fortune, foresight and increased intelligence. The trade is supplied by poachers who lace carcasses with easily accessible agricultural pesticides such as Temik (aldicarb), a potent carbamate poison colloquially known as “Two Step” (so named for the two steps its victims take before they die). The approach is indiscriminate and frequently results in a massacre of other scavengers and predators.

Apart from deliberate poisoning, vultures may also be incidental victims of poison-laced carcasses meant to target land-based livestock predators such as jackals or lions. Furthermore, the rapid increase in elephant and rhino poaching has also increased the risk to vultures. Poachers have been known to poison the carcasses to kill vultures to avoid alerting authorities to their activities.

Vultures are long-lived birds that are slow to mature and breed. They are fascinating to witness while on safari (let us help you see them in the wild), and each breeding pair is estimated to raise a single offspring to fledging once every one to two years. With mass poisoning incidents on the rise and vulture populations in steep decline, scientists have warned that many of Africa’s vulture species could be extinct within the next few decades. In response to these alarm bells, the IUCN Vulture Specialist Group prompted a reassessment of the conservation status of several species. The severity of their findings is summarised in the table below:

Threatened vulture species of Africa and their IUCN Red List conservation status in 2021

Hooded vulture	Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
Ruppell’s Vulture	Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
White-backed vulture	Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
Cape vulture	Vulnerable
Lappet-faced vulture	Endangered (Vulnerable in 2006)
White-headed vulture	Critically endangered (Least concern in 2006)
Egyptian vulture	Endangered
Eurasian griffon vulture	Least concern (but with several African populations now locally extinct)
Lammergeier	Near-threatened (Least concern in 2006)

The Vulture Ambulance

These mass poisoning events often occur in inaccessible areas far from rehabilitation centres. The birds that survive are invariably in critical condition and desperate need of emergency medical treatment. These realities prompted the EWT (with the assistance of various donors) to create a world-first Vulture Ambulance designed explicitly for mass poisoning events. The ambulance includes a mobile clinic, first-aid station and all equipment necessary to stabilise poisoned survivors. The customised crates can accommodate up to 20 birds at a time and allow easy access to each patient without disturbing neighbouring birds. They can even remain in the ambulance overnight when rescue efforts prove time-consuming.

The ambulance had been strategically placed in the high-risk Great Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area and proved effective in the latest poisoning event. The EWT hopes to develop more ambulance units to increase the number of birds that survive these catastrophic events.

How can you help?

Vultures play a vital ecological role in Africa and are essential to maintaining healthy ecosystems. As obligate scavengers, they rapidly remove carcasses and substantially limit the spread of disease. Their absence will have dire consequences for other wildlife and human health throughout the continent.

The EWT and other conservation organisations should be lauded for their efforts to protect the continent’s remaining vultures. It is a labour-intensive, emotionally draining and extremely costly process and support from the general public is always greatly valued (and indispensable).

African safari — A white-backed vulture, tagged for tracking, is released into the wild

One-stop bush and beach safari

To take in the best of Africa’s wildlife offerings or relax on its sandy beaches, soothed by the sound of the azure ocean waves? Bush or beach – a conundrum that could tear friends and families asunder when selecting their next holiday destination. Fortunately, there are a few magical destinations on the continent where one can have the best of both worlds in one spot.

So, where in Africa can you find these all-in-one destinations, where both the bush and beach are a hop, skip and jump away from your lodge? Where species such as whales, dolphins, beach-loving elephants and lemurs can add to your bush experience? Have a look at a list of our favourites.

For our recommendations on Africa’s best traditional tried-and-tested bush/beach combo safaris – which require some travel in between destinations – check out our ultimate guide here. Want to go on a one-stop bush-and-beach safari? Check out the various African safari experiences we have on offer here. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or we’ll help you plan your dream safari.

The beach safari

Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa

As the name suggests, Addo is famous for its elephant sightings, but recent years have seen the park expand to include the Woody Cape Nature Reserve, the Alexandria dune field and a marine portion extending to St. Croix Island and Bird Island. Thus, Addo is the only place in Africa where visitors can see the ‘Big 7’ – the ‘Big 5’ plus dolphins and whales.

bush and beach — Addo Elephant National Park offers visitors the chance to see the Big 7 (the Big 5 plus dolphins and whales), presenting a rich wildlife-viewing experience

The greater Addo ecosystem extends to several private reserves offering all the bells and whistles of the conventional safari experience, with the bonus of being just a short drive from the magnificent Eastern Cape coastline.

For breathtaking views and luxurious chalets, check out Kuzuko Lodge, bordering the national park.

iSimangaliso Wetland Park, South Africa

“iSimangaliso” translates as something “wonderous” or “miraculous” in Zulu, the perfect description for this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hippos abound in the lake systems and reedbeds, while buffalo, rhinos and elephants graze across coastal dune plains and leopards and lions lurk in the thickets.

Offshore migrating humpback whales breach, and from November to February, loggerhead and leatherback turtles drag themselves up the long stretches of sandy beaches. From snorkelling to safari and the Big 5, the massive iSimangaliso Wetland Park has it all.

Kosi Forest Lodge offers an affordable escape amongst the rich biodiversity of the area. At Makakatana Bay Lodge, guests can explore the ecological gem by boat from within the world heritage site. Or try Thonga Beach Lodge, situated deep in this wilderness of white beaches, blazing corals and freshwater lakes.

The beach with added safari

Maputo Special Reserve, Mozambique

Mozambique is famous for its spectacular coastlines with soft white sands and crystal-clear waters. It is the perfect spot to settle in the shade of an overhanging palm tree with a cocktail in hand.

However, venturing further inland, intrepid explorers will find a wide variety of wildlife, including elephants, buffaloes, giraffes, and a plethora of antelope species. A founding population of cheetahs were also recently released into the park. For a pristine base from which to explore both the bushveld and beach of Maputo Special Reserve, check out barefoot-luxury beach lodge, Anvil Bay.

Hermanus, South Africa

Nestled against the Olifantsberg Mountains and surrounded by nature reserves, the charming seaside town of Hermanus is the complete package. It is famous for whale-watching, shark diving in Walker Bay, and strips of rugged and rocky coastline give way to long stretches of sand.

Hermanus is famous for whale-watching, and long stretches of sand

Not far from Hermanus lies the city of Cape Town, known for its spectacular hikes that look down over the world-famous beaches. Table Mountain National Park, Cape Peninsula National Park, Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and several other protected areas display the best of the region’s indigenous flora and fauna, making this a nature lover’s playground.

The safari-style suites at Mosaic Lagoon Lodge, on the edge of the Hermanus Lagoon, border a bird sanctuary and offer many special and picturesque spots for photography enthusiasts.

Incredible coastal wilderness

Loango National Park, Gabon

Nowhere better epitomises the meeting of bushveld and beach than Gabon’s Loango National Park, renowned for its ocean-frolicking hippos and beach-loving forest elephants. Imagine watching the sun rising over the sea as forest buffaloes snooze in the distance in the sand. Away from the beaches, the forests of the Congo basin extend as far as the eye can see, hiding a precious population of Western lowland gorillas in their midst.

Loango National Park is known for its beach-loving forest elephants

Skeleton Coast, Namibia

The beaches of the Skeleton Coast mark the point where the Namib Desert tumbles towards the perfidious, icy currents of the Atlantic Ocean below. Admittedly this is no place to settle on a beach towel with a suitably light novel, but the eldritch setting is astonishingly beautiful. Even more remarkable in this desolate setting, the Skeleton Coast is home to desert-adapted lions, elephants, rhinos, brown hyenas and jackals. Their ability to eke out an existence under such extraordinary conditions truly encapsulates the resilient spirit of wild Africa.

Striking Shipwreck Lodge is the perfect escape for enjoying game drives in search of desert-dwelling fauna, and days spent beachcombing.

The Skeleton Coast offers striking desert landscapes, vast beaches along the cool Atlantic, and interesting wildlife including desert-adapted elephants, and lions

Nosy Komba, Madagascar

Madagascar is an island of fascinating evolutionary oddities and myriad diverse travel experiences. Unbeknown to most, its beaches rival those of the more conventional, tropical island paradises like Seychelles or the Maldives.

The best place to enjoy them is on one of the volcanic islands on the country’s northernmost tip. Nosy Komba is unofficially nicknamed the “island of lemurs”, as the densely vegetated interior is home to a vital population of endangered black lemurs. This otherworldly escape will delight wildlife enthusiasts and beach lovers.

With specials such as black lemurs and exquisite marine life on offer, Nosy Komba is a must-visit for wildlife enthusiasts and beach lovers alike

THIS WEEK

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Magnificent Matusadona + Giraffe return to Iona

There are leopards in my garden and I think this could end badly – for one particular leopard. Let me explain.

I live in a wildlife estate on the border of the Greater Kruger; leopards come and go as they please. That’s one of many joys of living here. Lizz and I let them be, keep our dogs safe and just get on with it.

But respectful co-existence is not enough for some people. One estate resident not far from us built a waterhole meters from their back porch (not permitted in terms of the estate rules), rigged up infra-red cameras and offered video feeds for Facebook friends. A well-known female leopard got used to bringing her two cubs to the waterhole – and they would hang out. One of those cubs is now all grown-up and hanging around the estate – he recently killed two pet dogs and has been seen following people walking their dogs in the estate. There are many such illicit waterholes on our estate – influencing wild animal behaviour.

What if he kills a child? I bumped into him when cycling recently – and he was very relaxed in my presence – a mere 25m away.

Habituating leopards, be it a commercial tourism strategy to meet client expectations, or for some personal need, has many implications and layers. My observations above relate to leopard habituation to people on foot in residential wildlife estates and leopard attraction to dogs as food, whereas here is an interesting article about habituation for tourism purposes.

Where will this end for this leopard? Whether he remains here or moves elsewhere with domestic dogs and enthralled humans on tap, I fear this will not end well for him.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

Post publishing edit: I changed ‘lights’ to ‘infra-red cameras’ and ‘live streaming’ to ‘video feeds’. I also added, ‘There are many such illicit waterholes on our estate – influencing wild animal behaviour.’

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

On the shores of Lake Kariba in northern Zimbabwe lies a remarkable piece of African bushveld: Matusadona National Park. Once dogged by rampant poaching, this park is fast on the way to becoming one of Zim’s top safari destinations. Matusadona is also the site of one of the most extensive wildlife relocations in history, with the famous “Operation Noah” putting the park on the map. Read more about this top safari spot in our first story below.

In another, more recent, relocation, giraffe have returned to Iona National Park, Angola. This week, 14 Angolan giraffe made the long journey from Namibia to their historical range in Angola as a part of a long-term plan to restore and enrich the biodiversity of this sublime wilderness area. Read more in our second story below.

A safari in South Africa offers the world in one country and delivers on most safari bucket lists requests – from the Big 5 icons and lodges of Greater Kruger to the beaches and cosmopolitan buzz of Cape Town. Start planning your South African adventure with the help of our third post below.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/matusadona-national-park/
MATUSADONA NP
Matusadona National Park is a remarkable African wilderness & one of Zimbabwe’s top safari spots

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/giraffe-return-to-iona-national-park/
ANGOLAN GIRAFFE
Giraffe have returned to Iona NP, Angola, through efforts to restore biodiversity to the region

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/travel/places/south-africa
SOUTH AFRICA
Everything you need to know about the perfect safari in South Africa

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Bush or beach? We’ve got it all: from the floodplains of Kafue to the island paradise of Mozambique. Our safari experts are on standby and ready to book your trip:

Kafue Explorer – Kafue National Park, Zambia (6-8 days) – from US$ 2,290 pps
Visitors to Zambia’s vast Kafue National Park are treated to magnificent displays of Africa at its most spectacular through the miombo woodlands and across verdant floodplains. Explore this extraordinary wilderness and its waterways, encountering the park’s abundant wildlife along the way. Our packages showcase the best that Kafue has to offer.

Stay 4, pay 3 at Santorini, Mozambique
Nestled above the red cliffs of Kingfisher Bay in Vilanculos, Santorini’s unfurling view of the Bazaruto Archipelago in the distance is unsurpassable. Santorini is like a small Greek village in the heart of a raw African landscape – a magical combination. Stay 4 and Pay 3 in 2023 and 2024 (excluding 20 Dec-10 Jan). Your stay will include a complimentary private snorkeling trip to Margaruque Island.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

We all know that the beak/bill shape of birds is related to dietary function: the sharp, hooked beaks of the avian predators, the stabby, harpoon-shaped beaks of herons, the flat, spoon-like bills of many waterfowl and so on.

But did you know scientists have found a strong correlation between beak shape and nesting material? Think of the variety on display – most raptor chicks hatch onto a perilous platform of sticks held together by a wish and a prayer, while the tiny hatchlings of sunbirds enter a delicate world wrapped up in spiderwebs. Hammerkop chicks grow up in a veritable mansion, while the most that a baby plover can hope for is learning to fly before it gets stepped on.

The point here is that animal behaviours and physical forms are shaped by millennia of selective pressures that are not necessarily as obvious as they first appear.

Save a pangolin

Yet another pangolin has been treated by Provet Wildlife Services in the bushveld town of Hoedspruit, near Greater Kruger.

This time, the patient, a female pangolin, was found caught on an electric fence. Her arm was severely damaged and required intensive treatment and bandages for over three months. This lucky girl has recovered well and is now able to use her arm for foraging and feeding again.

Thank you to all who have generously donated and joined the fight to save these pangolins. Without your support they would not receive the vital emergency care provided by Provet. Learn more here.

Note all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security purposes

WATCH: When you’re a plant, it’s not easy to make sure your seeds are spread far and wide and safely buried. Unless you can trick a dung beetle into doing it for you… (02:24). Click here to watch

Matusadona National Park

It’s got mountains; it’s got rivers; it’s got sights to make you shiver… There is something intensely gratifying about watching wild animals do something purely for enjoyment. Swimming elephants are the perfect example as they bob and wrestle in the water, using their trunks as built-in snorkels. For the elephants of Zimbabwe’s Matusadona National Park, Lake Kariba dominates their landscape like the world’s wildest swimming pool, there for them to plunge into at the end of a hot, dry day.

The carousing elephants of Matusadona National Park paint a carefree picture that belies the intense work going on behind the scenes to secure the park’s future. Yet, for all its challenges, Matusadona seems set to reclaim its rightful place as a top safari destination in one of Africa’s most spectacular wildlife regions. For more top African safari destinations, click here.

Matusadona National Park

Matusadona National Park lies on the southern shore of Lake Kariba in northern Zimbabwe, consisting of over 1,400km² (140,000 ha) sandwiched between the Sanyati Gorge to the east and the perennial Ume River to the west. The park’s character is defined by its magnificent scenery imparted by an unusual combination of engineered geography and natural geology. The vast flats of the floodplains and grasslands rapidly give way to the steep wooded slopes of the Matuzviadonha Mountains. These mountains form part of the undulating Zambezi escarpment and tower some 700 metres above the Zambezi Valley floor, dominating the park’s southern horizons. The name “Matusadona” derives from a colonial mispronunciation of “Matuzviadonha”, which, in turn, roughly translates to “fallen dung” – probably a reference to the region’s longstanding status as an elephant paradise.

It would perhaps be deceptive to describe Matusadona as a “pristine” wilderness, given that its most prominent geographical feature is Lake Kariba, the world’s largest artificial lake (by volume). Instead, it is a fascinating illustration of how human forces can shape a landscape, but nature will eventually adapt around it. However, at the time, the construction of the Kariba Dam and the gradual taming of the mighty Zambezi River necessitated one of the most extensive wildlife operations in history. From 1958 until 1964, Operation Noah facilitated the movement of 6,000 wild animals – from elephants and rhinos to birds and snakes – away from the rising waters. The vast majority were relocated to Matusadona National Park.

It seems impossible to imagine that such a slight to the very fabric of the Zambezi Valley could be endured with such natural grace, but some 60 years later, nature has rebounded. The lake has become part of the landscape, creating an atmosphere, not unlike that on the shores of one of Africa’s natural Great Lakes. Its water levels have a tremendous cyclical effect on the life surrounding it. On its banks, rich and nutritious grasses flourish during times of low water, providing myriad herbivores with plentiful grazing. Away from the floodplains, the thick mopane and Combretum woodlands of the Zambezi Valley floor hide the park’s browsers. Only the ghostly skeletons of a drowned forest rising from the waters serve as a reminder of the lake’s history while simultaneously furnishing the perfect backdrop for dramatic photography.

Out of sight…?

Operation Noah put Matusadona on the map, and the park earned a reputation as one of Africa’s elephant strongholds. However, the park has always been somewhat off the beaten track. As Zimbabwe plunged into political instability, Matusadona dropped off all but the most dedicated radars. The park’s rugged terrain and limited manpower, financial resources and infrastructure made protecting it almost impossible. Rampant poaching wiped out the black rhinos and severely reduced the elephant population. Fortunately, the inaccessibility favouring the poachers hindered agricultural ingress, and the park’s habitat integrity has remained intact.

In 2019, the non-profit organisation African Parks partnered with the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, signing a 20-year agreement to take over the management of Matusadona. While the park’s larger animals have suffered the abuse of the past, the fact that much of Matusadona’s diversity has endured offers a unique opportunity for restoration. In keeping with African Parks’ well-established methodology, increased security, improved community relations and carefully planned wildlife reintroductions will secure the park’s long-term future and allow Matusadona to live up to its phenomenal potential.

Lake Kariba is the world’s largest artificial lake

Matusadona is full to the brim

The intervention of African Parks was well-timed, and the park remains one of Zimbabwe’s wildlife tourism destinations. Naturally, elephants are the park’s most iconic residents. Not much can top the sight of these magnificent pachyderms frolicking in the lake or dwarfed by the vast floodplains surrounding them. Herds of waterbuck, zebra and impala dot the shore, while hippos and crocodiles inhabit its waters (hence why it would not be a good idea to follow the elephant’s example into the water!). Leopard, wild dog (painted wolf), spotted hyena, eland, sable and roan antelope are all inhabitants.

Many crocs call Lake Kariba’s waters home

Matusadona is home to substantial herds of buffalo, though their numbers over the years fluctuate depending on the lake water levels (and thus available grazing). At one point some 50 years ago, increased grazing supported enormous numbers of buffalo, feeding what was then one of the highest densities of lions in Africa. However, as water levels rose to flood parts of the grasslands, the buffalo numbers declined, as did the lion population. Since then, environmental and human pressures have kept lion numbers low. However, around 40 or so of these iconic big cats reside within the park.

While their numbers are not substantial, about 40 lions roam Matusadona

It should come as no surprise that with such diverse habitats, the birding in Matusadona is thrilling for experts and amateurs alike. Fish eagles are ubiquitous, as are many other water-loving birds, including herons, storks, egrets, cormorants and darters. African finfoots inhabit the Sanyati Gorge in the east, while the eastern Ume basin provides the perfect habitat for nesting marabou storks and vultures. Trumpeter hornbills regularly pass overhead, uttering their child-like cry, and, with a bit of luck, the tiny Kittlitz’s plover may even perform its broken wing display. Brightly coloured kingfishers and bee-eaters complete the avian feast for the eyes.

Explore & stay in Matusadona

Want to go on a safari to Matusadona? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages or get in touch with our travel team to arrange your safari, scroll down to after this story.

For the wildlife enthusiast, the best time to visit Matusadona is during the dry season, from June until October. As the smaller pools and rivers begin to dry up, animals are drawn to the edge of Lake Kariba, setting the scene for some spectacular sightings. However, by September and October, temperatures can easily top 40°C during the day. Those that enjo safaris beyond the search for the Big 5 will enjoy the rugged beauty of the green season from November onwards. While temperatures are still high, migrant birds arrive, and baby animals are everywhere. The gathering of cumulonimbus clouds of the first summer thunderstorms over the lake also offers the chance for some breathtaking photography.

Matusadona is a park that encourages more than one approach to its exploration. Of course, there are the standard open-vehicle game drives, but Zimbabwe is home to some of the best walking guides in Africa, and it would be a shame to miss out on the opportunity to wander this magnificent wilderness. Of course, water-based activities are essential, and visitors can opt for a slow boat cruise to take in the scenery or a more thrilling canoe safari past elephants feeding on the lake shore. Though the park is somewhat off the more traditional Zimbabwean safari route, it is most easily accessed by air or boat. There are also several beautiful luxury lodges, some neatly positioned on a private island. There are campsites for the more budget-strapped, and hiring a houseboat and mooring in one of the park’s scenic lagoons for a night or two is also an option.

What could be better than sundowners alongside the lake?

Final thoughts

As a safari destination, Matusadona National Park faces some stiff Zimbabwean competition where names like Mana Pools National Park, Chitake Springs and Hwange National Park have become the stuff of legend. However, Matusadona’s history is a testament to the potential of this remarkable piece of African wilderness. In the capable hands of African Parks, there is no question that the park is heading towards an extraordinary future.

Giraffe return to Iona National Park – Angola

Giraffe have finally returned to Iona National Park, Angola, after a long absence. This week, 14 made the long journey from a private game farm in central Namibia to their historical range in Angola.

The Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF), African Parks and the Government of Angola collaborated to relocate the animals to Iona National Park and bring back Angolan giraffe to the area. The Angolan giraffe is considered a subspecies of the southern giraffe, and is found in small populations in Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and now, once again, Angola. The successful relocation forms part of a long-term plan to restore and enrich the park’s biodiversity.

After their capture in Namibia, the animals travelled over 1,300km before their release in Angola on 5 July. The reintroduction will help restore Iona’s ecosystem and re-establish the region’s ecological processes, as giraffe assist in shaping the vegetation through browsing and dispersal of seeds due to their selective feeding habits.

giraffe, African safari — The animals being captured on a game farm in central Namibia

“By reintroducing giraffe to their historical range, we re-establish their range, ensure their long-term survival and contribute to restoring the ecological balance in the region,” says Stephanie Fennessy, executive director and co-founder of GCF.

Before the move, a feasibility study was conducted by a Namibian student from the Namibia University of Science & Technology and GCF. The study evaluated the source population of the animals, habitat suitability, human dimensions, risks during and after the operation and financial feasibility. African Parks also surveyed the communities in and around the periphery of Iona to evaluate perceptions of the proposed giraffe translocation. The assessment revealed that most Iona inhabitants are highly receptive to the presence of giraffe in the park and the safari tourism potential they may bring.

“The reintroduction of giraffe to Iona marks a critical moment in the park’s history,” says Pedro Monterroso, Iona park manager. “These graceful animals will contribute to the restoration of the park’s biodiversity and serve as a symbol of Angola’s commitment to conservation.”

Whilst giraffe populations, in general, have declined in the past 35 years due to habitat loss, poaching, and other human-induced factors, recent targeted conservation efforts have seen positive effects, and several populations have started to rebound. The successful translocation of the animals to Iona is a testament to the importance of cross-border conservation efforts for protecting Africa’s biodiversity.

THIS WEEK

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Rhino dehorning impacts + Ethiopian wolves + Great Migration

Just say no. A rant.

When your travel agent offers a visit to any establishment that offers touching a wild species as entertainment – say no. When your child wants to ‘save’ lions, tigers or cheetahs by volunteering at a big-cat breeding or cub-petting facility – say no. When you are asked to donate to any charity or facility that offers petting or walking with wild species – habituated or not – say no. Elephant-back riding or chimp cuddling – no. Do the research beyond the glossy brochures and claims of conservation benefits such as research and re-introduction to the wild, ask pointed questions and say no if there is any element of touching as a benefit for visitors or volunteers. It’s that simple. Most of these abusive facilities are in South Africa – check out this valuable resource to inform your decisions. If you are not yet convinced of the insidious evil of the captive big cat industry in this country, scroll down to watch this week’s featured video.

So, a few days ago, a little sparrowhawk joined me in my home office. She hurtled in after mistiming an attack on red-billed firefinches and blue waxbills at the garden bird bath. No harm done; she was duly caught and released – after giving me her most threatening glare. Life is good 🙂

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

We have a rhino-poaching crisis on our hands, and dehorning has emerged as one of the vital strategies in curbing incidents of poaching. But for years, many have wondered what impact dehorning has on the individual rhinos that have faced the chainsaw. A new study suggests concerning implications for black rhinos. Read our first story below.

In the Serengeti and Maasai Mara ecosystems, an incredible spectacle unfolds as large herds of wildebeest and zebra embark on their tireless quest for sustenance and water. Our second post below celebrates the wonders of the Great Migration, outlining the best safaris on offer for witnessing the Greatest Show on Earth.

High up in the Ethiopian Highlands, amidst the spectacular massif of sharp crags and cliffs, lives one of Africa’s most unique animals: the Ethiopian wolf. This stealthy canid is the most endangered carnivore in Africa. Fortunately, there are still places where these wolves are thriving. Read all there is to know about Ethiopian wolves in our third story below.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/missing-the-point-new-study-suggests-that-dehorning-can-negatively-impact-black-rhino-social-behaviours/
DEHORNED RHINOS
A new study suggests dehorning can negatively impact black rhino social behaviours

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/travel/experiences/great-migration-safari
GREAT MIGRATION
Our guide to safaris celebrating the Greatest Show on Earth

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/ethiopian-wolf/
ETHIOPIAN WOLF
The Ethiopian wolf is the most endangered carnivore in Africa, found only in the Ethiopian Highlands

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Experience the ultimate African adventure in Botswana or uncover a hidden paradise in Lake Malawi. Our travel experts are waiting to help you:

Botswana salt pans – 4days/3nights – from US$945 pps
Embark on a safari against the backdrop of one of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful landscapes. From the stark figures of ancient baobabs and the imposing forms of elephants, to habituated meerkats and zebra migrations, this tour of the world-famous salt pans in Botswana – Makgadikgadi Pan and Nxai Pan – goes far beyond the average “Big 5” safari to create a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Stay at Kaya Mawa, Likoma Island, Lake Malawi
Beach-front lodge Kaya Mawa is hidden away on Likoma Island in Lake Malawi – one of Africa’s best-kept secrets. This fresh-water lake is surrounded by gorgeous beaches and interesting fauna and flora, including the greatest diversity of fish anywhere on the planet. All internal flights and transfers (from the nearest international airport) are included when you book a minimum of 4 nights for travel in 2024.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Lately, my nights have been filled with a series of vivid and bizarre dreams, none of which I can remember in any great detail when I wake. If I had more faith in the mystic and the occult, I might be rushing to a dream guide or offering up prayers to Morpheus in search of understanding, but as it is, I suspect they are just a product of exam-brain. (Fourth year of veterinary science has proved challenging!)

The mysteries of slumber occupy researchers studying many different species. Last year I told you about dreaming spiders, but did you know that there is a strong possibility that octopuses dream too? Neuroscientists have found remarkable similarities in the brain patterns of sleeping octopuses and humans, including a REM-like state. Like the spiders (and dogs, cats, and people), the octopuses twitch and move their eyes around. However, the best part is that they also rapidly change colour – putting on a fascinating display of patterns that flicker over their skin. It is really quite beautiful.

WATCH: Blood Lions, the award-winning documentary exposing the terrible truth behind the cub-petting, predator-breeding, canned lion-hunting and lion-bone industries in South Africa, is now available free to view on Youtube. Check it out (1:24:40). Click here to watch

Missing the point: new study suggests that dehorning can negatively impact black rhino social behaviours

In an effort to address the rhino poaching crisis of the past two decades, removing the horns of at-risk rhinos has become a vital prong of anti-poaching strategies across southern Africa. However, a new study has shown for the first time that dehorning may change the natural behavioural ecology of black rhinos.

Black rhinos are primarily solitary animals living within delimited home ranges and are generally considered less gregarious than their larger white rhino relatives. Previous studies have shown that horns directly affect territoriality and agnostic activities. This is particularly true for male-male interactions, with one study indicating that males with larger horns dominated 65% of encounters. Thus, removing their horns can influence competition for mating rights, territory and, ultimately, their social demography. There is a growing body of research on the effects of dehorning on rhinos, yet prior to this study, little was known about its long-term impact on black rhinos in particular.

The paper’s authors analysed 15 years’ worth of rhino sightings from ten reserves in South Africa (from 2005 to 2020). This included temporospatial data from 368 individual black rhinos and all natural and poaching mortalities. During that time, the percentage of dehorned black rhinos increased from 0% to 63% across the study sites.

Dehorning rhinos is considered an essential anti-poaching strategy in Southern Africa

They found that home range size of individual animals decreased by an average of 45% of their previous size. The effect was most pronounced in females, with a 53% reduction compared to 38% in males. Individuals sometimes lost as much as 80% of their previous territories. Further investigation from three of the study sites with robust data (Ithala Game Reserve, Phinda Private Game Reserve and Manyoni Private Game Reserve) also revealed a significant decline in the frequency and strength of social interactions, especially between bulls. The researchers speculate that this decline may be due to increased feelings of vulnerability in dehorned rhinos, causing them to retreat into smaller territories and avoid confrontation. However, the scientists acknowledge that they could not evaluate the exact mechanisms behind the behavioural changes.

The authors highlight at least three reasons these behavioural changes could have “cryptic but powerful population-level consequences” for black rhinos. First, dehorned individuals may be forced into “ecological traps” in poorer-quality habitats. Second, decreased social interactions could alter their dominance patterns and reproductive success. And finally, with decreased home ranges and reduced explorative behaviour, dehorning black rhinos could reduce recruitment (the addition of individuals through immigration or birth and maturation) in new landscapes. Furthermore, the changes brought about by dehorning could significantly impact the calculation of the carrying capacity of reserves.

However, it is essential to note that the study found no link between dehorned rhinos and increased mortality. Dehorned black rhinos are no more likely to die of natural causes (for example, in a fight between individuals) than those still possessing their horns. Poaching mortalities also declined across all ten study sites, though the authors do not believe this data is sufficient to infer a causal relationship between dehorning and poaching. They point to several other variables that would have influenced poaching rates, including increased security measures and COVID lockdown regulations.

Final thoughts on rhino dehorning

There are many variables and parameters to consider when evaluating the impact of dehorning on the individual well-being, social demography and overall population dynamics of rhinos. These include everything from stress hormone levels, breeding intervals, calf mortality, home range, and habitat usage. Ultimately, the choice of what to analyse will significantly affect the conclusion about the potential harm of dehorning the rhino population (none, slight, significant). Long-term population effects may also take several years to manifest, meaning we are only now in a position to start observing them. Furthermore, inferences cannot be drawn from research conducted on one species of rhino (white or black) and applied to the other. However, every piece of research on dehorning – both in terms of its efficacy as a poaching deterrent and its effect on the animals – will add another piece to the puzzle.

There can be no question that removing rhinos’ horns (whether white or black) will impact them in some way. It is more important to establish the severity of these effects so that the costs can be balanced against the potential benefits. As the authors conclude: “While dehorning may yet prove to be an essential anti-poaching measure, it must be implemented with extreme caution and be accompanied by rigorous monitoring to understand its long-term impacts.”

Reference (available through a paywall)

Duthé, V. et al. (2023) “Reductions in Home-Range Size and Social Interactions among Dehorned Black Rhinoceroses (Diceros bicornis),” Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, 120(25)

Resources

More than half of Africa’s rhinos are in private hands. With rising protection costs, what will it take to build a resilient private industry? Read more on the importance of private-sector rhino conservation here.

Rhino poaching continues to decimate Kruger National Park’s rhino populations. Read more on the latest rhino population figures here.

Read our analysis of the IUCN report containing the most recent rhino numbers, trends and poaching incidents here.

Ethiopian wolf

High upon the Afroalpine plains of Ethiopia’s Bale Mountains, a big-headed African mole-rat raises its head cautiously out of its tunnel. Showing off an impressive pair of incisors, it glares myopically at the surroundings from beneath a deep-set brow before venturing forth from its bolt hole to feed. The mole-rat has good reason to be so vigilant – it occupies one of the last bastions of Africa’s most endangered and intriguing carnivores: the Ethiopian wolf. And they are expert rodent killers.

The Ethiopian wolf

Ethiopian wolves (Canis simensis) are handsome, russet-coated canids found only at altitudes above 3,200 metres in the Highlands of Ethiopia. As unusually specialised predators, they have the lamentable honour of being the most endangered carnivore in Africa and the rarest canid species worldwide. Given their particular habitat preferences, it is unlikely that Ethiopian wolves ever occurred at high numbers or densities, but due to anthropogenic pressure, their populations are now highly fragmented. Today, Ethiopian wolves are restricted to a handful of isolated mountain enclaves, threatened by encroachment and disease. This understandably dominates most of the available commentary on these unique animals.

One regrettable consequence of their conservation plight is that the more nuanced aspects of their evolutionary history and fascinating ethology are often overlooked. Yet, the Ethiopian wolf is a marvel in its own right – a creature closely related to Eurasia and North America’s more familiar grey wolves but with a distinctly African twist. Millions of years ago, as canid ancestors trotted in from Asia and Europe to the welcoming lands of Africa, some of them gravitated to a less hospitable realm. Largely freed from competition with rival predators, the ancestors of the Ethiopian wolves found themselves in rodent heaven on the “roof of Africa”.

The cursorial hunting techniques so popular with many large canid species (like grey wolves or the African wild dog) are of little use on the sparse Afroalpine plains. Thus, Ethiopian wolves adopt a more patient, almost feline approach to hunting. They stalk through the heath and grasslands, using keen hearing to pinpoint rodent burrows. When a suitable target is identified, the wolf will wait for the rodent to emerge before leaping into the air and descending serval-like from above. By necessity, this hunting style is a one-wolf job, and Ethiopian wolves are predominantly solitary hunters (though interestingly, they often hunt within large herds of foraging geladas). However, there are rare instances when packs band together to hunt larger prey like the calves of mountain nyala.

Ethiopian wolf — Ethiopian wolves are stealthy and solitary hunters

Quick facts

Height:	53-62cm
Mass:	Males: 14.2-19.3kg
	Females: 11.2-14.1kg
Social structure:	Packs
Gestation:	60-62 days
Conservation status:	Endangered (formally Critically Endangered)

Wolf, jackal, or fox?

Like the African wild dog (painted wolf), the Ethiopian wolf has several alternative (and potentially confusing) monikers. They are sometimes referred to as Simien foxes, Simien or Ethiopian jackals, Abyssinian wolves and even a horse’s jackal (a local name supposedly in reference to their habit of consuming the expelled placentas of post-parturient horses and cows).

In terms of size and shape, Ethiopian wolves are not dissimilar to coyotes, though lankier and with longer muzzles. Their ambush-based hunting habits resemble smaller canid species like jackals, while their social structures are unequivocally wolf-like. And finally, their ochre-hued coats are positively vulpine.

Perhaps this foxy colouring led Oscar Neumann, a German naturalist of the early 20th century, to describe the Ethiopian wolf as “only an exaggerated fox,” but Oscar was to be proven mistaken. We now know that the Ethiopian wolf’s closest African relative is the African wolf (Canis lupaster), an animal which, until 2015, was thought to be a golden jackal. What’s more, the ancestor of the African wolf was a genetically admixed canid of 72% grey wolf (Canis lupus) and 28% Ethiopian wolf ancestry. To put it simply, as far as we know, the Ethiopian, African, and grey wolves, together with coyotes and golden jackals, all evolved from the same common ancestor. The Ethiopian wolf is the most basal member of that group, meaning that it diverged early on, about a million years before the rest. All species appear to be sufficiently closely related to hybridise and produce fertile offspring.

Wolf pack

Ethiopian wolves have pack structures similar to both grey wolves and African wild dogs. The family groups may number up to 20 individuals, though they are generally smaller, with an average of six pack members. These packs occupy territories (the size of which varies depending on rodent populations), and all individuals contribute to the defence of these territories through scent-marking, vocalisations and aggressive interactions.

A breeding pair monopolises the reproductive affairs of the pack, and the remaining females are reproductively suppressed. Furthermore, the breeding female will only accept the advances of her pack mate (or males from other groups if she happens to sneak away). The helpless pups are born into an underground den, and it will be three weeks before they emerge to peer out at their new, chilly world. Raising the next generation is a team undertaking, with all wolves helping protect and feed the pups (view a gallery featuring the antics of a young Ethiopian wolf pack here). Subordinate females may even lactate and help suckle larger litters.

At around two years of age, subordinate females tire of life under their mother’s reproductive tyranny and disperse in search of a new pack – either forming their own with a suitable dispersal male or integrating into an existing one.

Keeping the wolf from the door

Most available reading on Ethiopian wolves suggests their current range is limited to seven mountain populations. However, this is dated information, and the situation is likely worse than most realise. The last formal population assessment came in 2011 when the IUCN Canid Specialist Group suggested that they are now extinct in Mt. Gunda in South Gondar (one of the seven listed remaining ranges). Only a handful of wolves remained in the North and South Wollo Highlands at the last count in 2000. The Simien and Bale Mountains (sections of which are protected by eponymous national parks) are the last remaining population strongholds of Ethiopia’s wolves.

For the most part, direct persecution has not contributed enormously to the decline of the Ethiopian wolf, as they very seldom prey on livestock and thus do not represent an immediate threat to farmers. They are also well protected under Ethiopian law. It is habitat loss that has driven them to the verge of extinction. The wolves are designed to thrive at high altitudes in particular habitats, and over 60% of all land above 3,200 metres in Ethiopia is now farmland.

Worse still, with people comes disease in the form of canine distemper and rabies spread via domestic dogs. Many of Africa’s large carnivores (including lions, wild dogs and Ethiopian wolves) are incredibly susceptible to these highly fatal viruses, and they can spread like wildfire in social species. In the already tiny populations of Ethiopian wolves, the effects of an outbreak can be devastating to the point of local extinction. An additional challenge posed by domestic dogs is the ability of the two to interbreed, endangering the already dwindling genetics of the wolves.

The complexities of the threats facing Ethiopia’s wolves and the efforts to save them are dealt with in greater detail in a previous article, “Cry Wolf: What it Takes to Save Africa’s Most Endangered Carnivore”. Fortunately, nature is always resilient if given the chance, and the Ethiopian Wolf Conservation Programme recently recorded 94 pups born during the 2021/2022 breeding season.

An Ethiopian wolf, tagged for research purposes, in the Bale Mountains

Final thoughts

As canids spread across the globe millions of years ago, their versatility and opportunistic natures proved a recipe for success. But the more specialised they became, the more vulnerable they were to the impact of humans. For the Ethiopian wolves, their niche requirements combined with the inexorable advance of people, farms and the associated dangers have been disastrous.

Fortunately, there are still places where the wolves are safe and thriving, and concerted conservation efforts have seen them reclassified from “Critically Endangered” to “Endangered” – one step closer to ensuring the future for Ethiopia’s exquisite and unique wolves. To book your African safari to see Ethiopian wolves in the wild, click here.

THIS WEEK

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Water safaris + marvellous wildebeest + ultimate Botswana

It’s that time of year here in Southern Africa when crepuscular temperatures are somewhat crisp, the static air is bone-dry, trees are bare, and the remaining grass is like straw. It’s safari time! Well, actually all year is safari time, but this is the favourite time of year for many to visit Africa. Wildlife is easier to find because of the lack of vegetation cover and their need to find water.

We are receiving more last-minute requests than usual (a sign of the times?) – which are often challenging to fulfil because many lodges are fully booked during peak safari season. Of course my team will bust a gut to find your desired safari experience at short notice, BUT did you know that the BEST time of year for epic wildlife encounters is late in the dry season – September to mid November (before the short rains)? The dry is at its peak, temperatures are rising and there is an air of desperation to proceedings. This is when I choose to do bushtime. Drop us an email for advice and to plan your late dry-season safari.

Meanwhile, here at home on the Greater Kruger border our nights are filled with lions, leopards and hyenas calling and elephants trumpet-squealing. While Verreaux’s eagle-owls and southern white-faced owls provide a soothing background audio. Life is good.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

There is an Africa to be explored beyond game drives and bush walks: an Africa buzzing with incomparable vitality. Along the continent’s rivers, streams and lakes, you will find a distinct kind of safari, one that celebrates the very lifeblood of the land. In our first story, we’ve compiled a list of the top water safaris to experience in Africa, from gliding down the waterways of the Okavango Delta, to floating down the Chobe on a riverboat or kayaking the Nile.

They’re the subject of many a dream safari – the unlikely heroes of an epic African adventure. And not for nothing do thousands of visitors head to witness them in action during the Greatest Show on Earth. This week, we pay homage to the wildebeest. See our second story below.

Lastly, as host to the Okavango Delta, Chobe, Savute, Makgadikgadi and more, Botswana is the ultimate safari destination that offers a complex web of wildlife habitats to satisfy even the most demanding traveller. We’ve put together everything you need to know about a safari in Botswana.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/nine-legendary-water-safaris/
WATER SAFARIS
Africa’s rivers, streams and lakes are its lifeblood. Here’s a list of some of our favourite water safaris on the continent

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/wildebeest/
THE WILDEBEEST
Star of the Great Migration and one of Africa’s toughest (and most comical) animals

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/travel/places/botswana
ULTIMATE BOTSWANA
Botswana is a veritable whose-who of Africa’s top safari destinations. Here’s why

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Zambia is calling… Our safari experts are on standby and ready to book your trip:

Affordable South Luangwa safari – from US$2,625pps
This fantastic combination of walking and vehicle-based game viewing will appeal to experienced safari-goers and novices alike. Expect exceptional wildlife, tracking on foot, scrumptious bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners in Zambia’s premier safari destination.

Stay at Chisa Busanga, Kafue National Park, Zambia
Chisa Busanga Camp lies on a beautiful island in the heart of Busanga Plains, Kafue National Park, overlooking vast floodplains and dambos that teem with wildlife. Book 4 nights at Chisa Busanga In 2024, and all internal flights and transfers will be included.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Languages evolve in weird and wonderful ways, along with a host of colourful idioms and expressions. Naturally, animals feature heavily in these creative turns of phrase, occasionally perpetuating some rather glaring misconceptions.

For example, did you know that most bats have keen eyesight, with some even postulated to see better than humans? Obviously, different species use this sense in combination with echolocation and smell depending on their diet, but no bat is truly blind. So the common simile “as blind as a bat” is way off the mark and probably arose from their erratic flight patterns.

Likewise, owls do not have a penchant for wisdom and goldfish actually have a rather remarkable memory.

THE SNARE SCOURGE

In our forum: The illegal practice of setting snares to hunt animals is a widespread problem in Africa, posing a risk to biodiversity. In South Africa’s Western Cape, snaring poses a serious threat to leopards. The Cape Leopard Trust (CLT) is developing a multi-pronged strategy, including research, conservation and education, to grapple with this complex issue.

Read more about how CLT is addressing snaring & attempting to combat the scourge.

WATCH: The country of Gabon aims to protect 30% of its land, ocean, and freshwater habitats by 2030, and is emerging as a conservation leader in Africa and globally (03:37). Click here to watch

Wildebeest

Every year, a sense of anticipation hangs over the grassland savannahs of East Africa. A light breeze ruffles yellow grass that stretches as far as the eye can see over rolling hills dotted with sparse trees. Hungry predators lounge in the shade, watching, waiting… Then a dark form appears on the horizon, followed by another and another until the looming wall of lowing animals begins to descend into the first valley. The herd is on the move – the wildebeest are coming.

Colourful characters

Compared to the graceful kudu, winsome nyala or even ubiquitous impala, the wildebeest is not an antelope appreciated for its natural beauty. It is an ungainly-looking creature with a front-heavy body and an aquiline nose that does not inspire portrait photography. Indeed, apart from the spectacle that is the Great Migration (to book your African safari to see the Great Migration, click here), few visitors to Africa are content to spend more than a few passing minutes observing wildebeest. Yet beneath the rather homely exterior beats the heart of one of the toughest animals on the continent, and their social interactions can be profoundly entertaining for those who stop to enjoy them.

There are only two species of wildebeest – the well-known blue/common wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus) and the black wildebeest (C. gnou) of southern Africa. The Connochaetes genus falls under the family Bovidae and subfamily Alcelaphinae, making their closest relatives the hartebeest, hirola, topi, tsessebe, blesbok and bontebok antelopes. Fossils of blue wildebeest indicated that they evolved at least 2.5 million years ago. Analysis of mitochondrial DNA suggests that black wildebeest diverged as a separate species in southern Africa around 1.5 million years later.

Blue wildebeest are found throughout much of East and southern Africa in various habitats, from dense woodland to floodplains. In contrast, the black wildebeest is found only in South Africa, Lesotho, and Eswatini in open grasslands and Karoo scrub. Though the two do not generally overlap, each species is distinctive and relatively easy to distinguish from the other. The most obvious difference is the shape of the horns – in blue wildebeest, these extend outwards from either side of the head before curving upwards at the tips. Those of the black wildebeest project forward towards the muzzle and then loop vertically. As the names imply, the coat colour is another distinguishing feature. However, the black wildebeest is more of a rich chocolate brown than black, and the colouration of the blue wildebeest varies depending on region and subspecies.

Differences in distribution and behaviour are usually sufficient to prevent the two species from interbreeding in the wild, but they have been known to hybridise to produce fertile offspring. The calves of both species are born tawny and will only start showing their adult colours after a few months.

Quick wildebeest facts

	Blue wildebeest	Black wildebeest
Av. Height	M: 150cm F: 135cm	M: 120cm F:108 cm
Av. Mass	M: 250kg F: 180kg	M: 180kg F: 155kg
Gestation period	8.5 months	8.5 months
Colour	Grey-brown	Brown with a cream-coloured tail
Habitat	Wide range of habitats	Exclusively open grasslands
IUCN Red List	Least Concern	Least Concern

Blue wildebeest subspecies

Nominate species: blue/common wildebeest ( t. taurinus) – southern Angola, Namibia, Botswana, South Africa, Zimbabwe and southwestern Zambia
Nyasaland wildebeest ( t. johnstoni) – northern Mozambique to central Tanzania
Eastern white-bearded wildebeest ( t. albojubatus) – northern Tanzania to central Kenya
Western white-bearded wildebeest ( t. mearnsi) – northern Tanzania to central Kenya, west of the Gregory Rift Valley
Cookson’s wildebeest ( t. cooksoni) – Luangwa Valley in Zambia

Wildebeest migration madness

No article on these antelope would be complete without mention of the Great Migration of East Africa, where over a million blue wildebeest make their never-ending circular journey through the Mara-Serengeti ecosystems. Their quest for fresh grasses drives them onwards in enormous herds through predator-rich savannahs and across crocodile-infested rivers. It is a chaotic and often adrenaline-tinged phenomenon as hungry big cats, wild dogs (painted wolves), and hyenas throw themselves into the melee with joyous abandon to take advantage of this annual glut of prey. When not diving headlong off plunging riverbanks or leaping out of reach of snapping jaws, the herds gather on the plains from horizon to horizon, grunting, lowing and snorting at each other constantly. It is a sensory extravaganza for visitors to one of Africa’s greatest spectacles.

However, few people realise that Africa was once home to many such migrations. These have been stopped in their tracks over the centuries by fences and human encroachment (this is true for almost all large herbivore species, to some extent). Though perhaps not on the same scale, black wildebeest also migrated from the Karoo scrublands to the grasslands of South Africa’s highveld during the wet season. Similarly, many blue wildebeest herds in different ecosystems would have covered massive distances depending on rainfall and grass availability. Some of these migrations have survived, like that between Tarangire National Park and Lake Manyara National Park in Tanzania, albeit involving far fewer animals. The removal of some veterinary fences in Botswana also allowed zebra and wildebeest to resume their yearly journey between the country’s Okavango Delta and Chobe ecosystems to the Boteti River and associated salt pans. Other wildebeest migrations have all but collapsed, such as the migration of the Athi-Kaputiei ecosystems in Kenya and, due to veterinary fences, the movement of an estimated half a million wildebeest through Botswana’s Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Given the impact of the Great Migration on the habitats and inhabitants of the Maasai Mara and the Serengeti (everything from food provision to supplementing phosphorus in the rivers), there is no question that the loss of these migrations must have a profound effect on the ecosystems they left behind.

It is also important to note that not all wildebeest migrate, even in areas known for their migratory events. Sedentary populations are found throughout the range of the blue wildebeest, including the Mara, Serengeti and Tarangire. In these populations, dominant males maintain small, set territories throughout the year while breeding herds and groups of non-territorial bachelors move across more extensive home ranges.

A massive herd attempts a river crossing

Bewilderbeest*

Wildebeest are not considered among the great thinkers of the African plains, but that does not detract from their entertainment value, even at the more “ordinary” sightings. When large herds gather in their thousands, the constant contact grunting creates a din that resounds in one’s ears long after the day has ended. During the rutting season, these are interspersed with the hilarious groans of the males looking to establish a temporary territory of just a few square metres. They do this through threat displays and the occasional clash of horns, all while trying to keep half an eye on the females wandering into their little patch. By the time a male has seen off an opponent, the females have usually ambled away, and the whole process has to begin again.

The males of sedentary populations defend permanent territories, with the most coveted being around waterholes. The lord of any such desirable patch stakes his claim through scent marking, which he deposits by rubbing facial glands on suitable trees and scraping the pedal gland between the toes on the ground. His efforts will be rewarded by a more regular presence of breeding herds.

Whether migratory or sedentary, wildebeest are seasonal breeders, and up to 90% of the calves are born within a three-week interval. The timing of the birthing season is regionally dependent, with southern African calves born around the beginning of December and birthing reaching its peak in February in East African populations. The wobbly brown calves are quick to find their feet and, despite the precarious nature of their very existence, are exceptionally playful and clownish.

Want to see wildebeest in the wild or follow the chaos of the Great Migration? Get in touch with our travel team to discuss your safari – details below this story.

* Our use of the term “bewilderbeest” with credit to the late Sir Terry Pratchett

Nine legendary water safaris

Every river has a character, and every waterway symbolises vitality. Life in Africa revolves around its rivers, streams and lakes, defining the essence of the wildernesses they flow through. A safari can be more than game drives, so why not opt for one of the continent’s numerous water safaris and explore Africa through its lifeblood?

Below is a list of our favourite water-based safari destinations.

Want to go on a water safari? Browse our African safaris on offer here.

Okavango Delta, Botswana: Water safari by mokoro

The swampy wildlife oasis of the Okavango Delta is one of the most extraordinary safari destinations in Africa, and a ride in a mokoro is an essential part of any exploration. These traditional dugout canoes cut silently through the wetlands’ many channels, propelled by expert guides’ poles. Aside from the peaceful immersion in one’s surroundings, this is the perfect way to encounter wildlife – from elephants to frogs and everything in between.

water safaris Okavango Delta — Glide by mokoro on the waters of the Okavango Delta

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe and Zambia: Rafting on Batoka Gorge’s white waters

At Victoria Falls, the mighty Zambezi River plunges 100 metres off a basalt plateau before being forced through a narrow and twisting path of Batoka Gorge. The rapids below the falls are classified as Grade V and are widely acknowledged as offering some of the best white water rafting in the world.

Adrift on inflatable rafts, armed with just a plastic oar and a lifejacket, visitors throw themselves at the river’s mercy. Nothing is quite as humbling as experiencing the sheer power of a churning river (especially while underneath it). And after the rather steep climb out of the gorge on somewhat shaky legs, a sundowner imbibed looking out over the “smoke that thunders” is a must! This is one of the most epic water safaris you’ll ever experience.

water safaris Victoria Falls — White river rafting on Batoka Gorge, Victoria Falls

Jinja, Uganda: Kayak the Nile

The Nile River is the longest in the world, and its journey begins at the edge of Lake Victoria as it spills out of the lake into a series of plunging rapids. Not much compares to the thrill of riding the tumbling waves, pitting skill against the tremendous power of the torrent. And there are plenty of long flat stretches of calm water to steady the nerves, recover the muscles and marvel at the beauty of rural Uganda.

If this sounds too much (or perhaps when one’s shoulders and arms have had enough), opt for an ice-cold drink on a sedate sunset boat cruise.

water safaris Nile River — Kayak the River Nile at Jinja

Chobe River, Botswana and Namibia: Cruise on a riverboat

The Chobe River is Africa’s elephant Eden, its lush floodplains and surroundings home to the world’s highest density of these magnificent pachyderms. This corner of the continent is renowned for its water safaris. Explore the various channels and side creeks or meander peacefully, watching elephants snorkel and wrestle in the water. From predator to prey, the abundance of life on display along the riverbanks tinges any voyage with more than a hint of excitement.

water safaris - Chobe — Spot Chobe’s abundant wildlife from a riverboat

Lake Tanganyika, Tanzania: Float or dive lazy waters

Only two parks in Tanzania offer chimpanzee trekking: Gombe Stream and Mahale Mountains National Parks, and both are found on the banks of Lake Tanganyika. The terrain of these parks is mountainous, and if the chimps are particularly capricious, a trek might entail several hours of strenuous hiking. As such, there is no doubt that the only way to celebrate a successful day is to leap with joy into the cool embrace of the clear waters of the world’s longest freshwater lake. Sandy beaches are perfect for lazing the days away or soaking up romantic sunsets. Or, to make the most of a water safari at Lake Tanganyika (which hosts over 350 fish species), explore the waters by diving or snorkelling.

Chill out on sandy beaches by the peaceful waters of Lake Tanganyika

Lake Kariba, Zimbabwe and Zambia: Explore vast shorelines

The fertile shores of Lake Kariba and its fresh waters attract diverse birdlife and wildlife, including elephants, buffalo and various antelopes. Keep an eye out for lions and leopards too. Lake Kariba’s water safaris can be enjoyed in simple pleasure or luxurious style. Dozens of lodges perched on the water’s edge allow you to awaken to the copper glow of the sun rising over the endless lake. Spend the day admiring the scenery or watching elephants browse the shoreline of Lake Kariba. And at the end of the day, the calm waters are the ideal place to admire the starlit skies. There are plenty of opportunities to explore the shorelines from the water, whether on a catamaran cruise, motorboat or even a houseboat.

Explore Lake Kariba’s shorelines on a catamaran cruise or motorboat

Lake Malawi, Malawi: Barefoot safari

Lake Malawi offers a plethora of fun for every intrepid safari goer, from the super active to the deeply relaxed. Across the shoreline of Lake Malawi, tiny beach villages and lodges offer many opportunities to explore the waters – above or below the azure ripples. Boat trips provide the perfect vantage to appreciate the lake’s blazing sunsets. Snorkel or dive beneath the surface to take in the fishy kaleidoscope darting around the rocks in the shallows. Sailing and kayaking are at the top of the list for those eager to investigate the various bays and coves along the shoreline. And for beach lovers, there is ample opportunity to lounge along Lake Malawi’s sandy shores and breathe in the crystalline waters, drink in hand.

Storms River Mouth, South Africa: Adventure in the breakers

Along the ocean’s edge in the Tsitsikamma section of Garden Route National Park, a microcosm of adventure can be found within a rocky ravine where breakers pound rocky shores beneath rolling forests and fynbos. Here, 5kms of sea, reefs and ocean life around Storms River Mouth are protected by the national park. Mere metres from where dolphins romp in the waves and southern right whales visit, thrill-seekers can negotiate the narrow passages of the magnificent Storms River Gorge by kayak, cliff jump into secret pools, lounge on a raft or hop aboard a lilo to float on cool waters after a long day of activity.

Storms River Mouth will enthral adventure seekers

Lake Kivu, Rwanda: Kick-back, beach style

There are plenty of active ways to entertain oneself on a visit to Lake Kivu, from water sports to birding. But why not embrace the Caribbean-like tropical atmosphere of this Great Lake, and take a few days to kick back and relax on sandy shores? Besides, it is the perfect spot to let it all sink in after a life-changing trek with gorillas in nearby Volcanoes National Park.

THIS WEEK

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Magical Mana Pools + African civets

Africa’s safari destinations and their charismatic creatures offer the chance to escape from reality, but few match up to the magic of Mana Pools. Beyond lions dwarfed by towering forests, large herds of elephants, lily-covered ponds, and regular encounters with African wild dogs, Mana Pools offers catharsis for the soul. Irene Amiet visited the famed area in Zimbabwe to photograph the other-worldly wilderness of this Zambezi kingdom. Check out her photos and read more about her experience in our first story below.

And then… They’re the silent phantoms of the African safari, the bandits of the bushveld – stalking the night and eluding all who seek them… Our second story takes a closer look at the African civet, one of the continent’s more mysterious mammals. Not often seen, these fierce and agile predators should not be overlooked. Find out why.

Taryn van Jaarsveld – Editor

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/enchanted-mana-pools/
MANA POOLS
Traveller Irene Amiet visits Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools National Park to photograph this other-worldly wilderness

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/african-civet/
AFRICAN CIVET
Occurring throughout sub-Saharan Africa, the African civet is a rare but welcome sight on safari

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

We have TWO safari specials to choose from this week. Get in touch with our safari experts and YOU could soon be jetting off to incredible wild places.

Botswana Classic: fully catered mobile safari – Special rate – US$6,238 pps
Explore all of northern Botswana on a fully catered MOBILE safari. Beginning in Maun and ending in Kasane and led by experienced guides, you’ll track big cats and wild dogs, and meander along the Chobe River. Book this authentic Botswana safari experience today and don’t miss out on this special high-season rate of US$6,238pps, valid from 21-31 Aug 2023.

Stay at Kisima Ngeda Camp, Lake Eyasi, Tanzania
Kisima Ngeda Camp is nestled in a thick stand of doum palm and fever tree forest under a rocky granite hill overlooking the seasonal Lake Eyasi, Tanzania. Book your stay and meet the Hadza tribe in an immersive cultural experience. Stay 5 nights and pay for 4 – valid all year round!

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that pangolins’ tongues extend all the way through the thorax to their last ribs? These they use to lap up termites and ants during their nightly myrmecophagous feasts.

Except, of course, when poachers find them. Then they are thrown roughly into sacks and go for days without food or water; their well-being and even survival of little interest to those seeking to trade their scales. By the time they are rescued (if they are rescued), their little bodies are traumatised and desperately depleted.

The toll of caring for these forlorn rescues is immense, both from an emotional and physical point of view. They require intensive medical intervention and, if their lives are saved, weeks and months of rehabilitation before they can be safely returned to the wild.

Read on to learn about another extraordinary rescue, and then please join me in donating to their cause. Every little bit counts in the fight to try and right the wrongs wrought upon these innocent animals.

Save a pangolin

Another pangolin has been rescued! The little male was confiscated in a recent sting operation near Hoedspruit, just outside Greater Kruger. The pangolin was severely emaciated and has now begun the slow process of medical treatment and rehabilitation, with help from Provet Wildlife Services. Thanks to all who have already supported our campaign to assist these pangolins.

Consider donating to Provet to assist in intensive cases like these which require thorough and in-depth medical care.

Save a pangolin

Please note all pangolins are housed off site for security purposes.

WATCH: For the first time in 150 years, lions are once again roaming the rolling hills of Babanango Game Reserve, in Zululand, South Africa. In this historic move, two male lions have been reintroduced onto the reserve, as part of an ambitious rewilding journey (09:48). Click here to watch

African civet

As the sun dips below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of burnished sienna, the cast of the graveyard shift begins to stir. Leaves rustle, feathers are fluffed, lions stretch out sleep-stiffened limbs, and somewhere in the distance, a lone hyena whoops. The creatures of the African night emerge to continue the ceaseless dance of survival. Among them, an African civet pads silently along well-trodden paths in search of its next meal – another furtive ghost of the continent’s mysterious darkness.

The bandits of the bushveld

With their bright, intelligent eyes, sharp features, round ears and black markings, African civets are often described as racoon-like in appearance, but the two species are unrelated. The African civet (Civettictis civetta) belongs to the Viverridae family, along with genets and the lesser-known oyans (also known as linsangs) of West and Central Africa. (Despite its common name, the African palm civet is only very distantly related to African civets and belongs to an entirely different family – the Nandiniidae.) African civets are the sole surviving member of the Civettictis genus, the largest member of the Viverridae family in Africa, and the second-largest civet species after the Asian binturong.

While they occur throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa, these curious animals are primarily nocturnal, occupying favoured hiding places in dense vegetation during the day. As a result, sightings are generally brief unless a lodge happens to have a resident civet that moves through it each night. If the opportunity is presented, close observation reveals that civets are oddly lopsided, with disproportionately large hindquarters. Their thick fur is decorated in unique patterns of spots and blotches that merge into bands running down the legs and tail. Masquerade facial markings and a long crest of fur erected when threatened convey the distinct (and accurate) impression that this is not an animal to be trifled with.

Though generally docile, civets are fierce and agile predators, and when cornered, their defensive growl is surprisingly deep and profoundly intimidating. It is also interspersed with an explosive sound described as “cough-spitting”. The well-developed sagittal crest along the top of the skull and robust zygomatic arch provide strong points of attachment for the temporal and masseter muscles, conferring a powerful bite that belies the animal’s stature.

Quick civet facts

Height:	40cm
Body length (without tail):	67-84 cm
Mass:	7-20 kilograms (females smaller than males)
Social structure:	Solitary
Gestation:	Around 80 days
IUCN conservation status:	Least Concern

Unpalatable preferences

Civets are creatures of habit at night, moving along regular pathways at a slow, tentative walk with heads held low and relying on an acute sense of smell to guide them to their next unsuspecting meal. They have a broad and indiscriminate palate that extends to small mammals, birds and their eggs, invertebrates, fruit and even carrion. However, it is their taste for toxicity that sets civets apart. Millipedes secrete hydrogen cyanide and hydrochloric acid – a noxious combination that deters all but the most determined predators. Though the mechanisms are not fully elucidated, civets can eat and process these toxins, presumably without any discomfort, as millipedes form one of the main components of their diets. They have also been known to casually snack on the fruits of plants belonging to the Strychnos genus, which contain high levels of strychnine.

This gastronomic flexibility allows civets to utilise different resources and thus reduces competition with other medium-sized carnivores.

Their broad and capable palates reduce civets’ competition with other carnivores

Ode de civet

The munched millipedes proceed as usual through the digestive tract and are eventually deposited in characteristic civettries. These civet middens are unmistakable, decorated as they are with the white exoskeletons of invertebrate prey (and the sheer size of the droppings, which almost defy the physical limits of anatomy). The trees beside civettries and along popular paths are marked with a pungent pale-yellow secretion from large perineal glands known as civetone. Civets essentially live through their noses and have been known to be driven to a rubbing and marking frenzy by strong-smelling objects. Things like rotten fruits attract their attention, and they “neck-slide” against the offending stink, repeatedly smearing their contribution of civetone along the way. Even unsuspecting pangolins have found themselves victims of this scent-induced delirium.

Civetone may be putrid smelling when concentrated, but diluted formulations create a pleasant scent. For this reason, civetone has been included as a base in perfumes for hundreds of years. While today, most commercial perfume companies have replaced civetone with synthetic ambretone, the practice persists, and boutique scents made from civetone remain popular. Most of this natural civetone is sourced from caged male civets in Ethiopia, caught in the wild and kept under appalling conditions.

While, unlike their Asian cousins, African civets have escaped the bizarre tradition of making coffee from beans in their faeces, they are believed to be extensively hunted for bushmeat in parts of Africa. Though the impact has not been thoroughly studied, experts believe that thousands of civets are killed every year in the forests of Nigeria and Cameroon, which could well be contributing to local population declines.

The solitary civet

Left to their own devices, civets are solitary, though little is known about the extent of their social dynamics or sex territoriality. A female in oestrus will call to prospective mates with a sound described as a “moaning meow” by biologist Richard Estes. Some 80 days after her amorous songs are answered, she will seek a suitable den site and give birth to between one and four kittens.

Civet kittens are born well-developed compared to other carnivores and are walking within a few days and exploring outside the den at around three weeks old. Adorably, they display what is known as clustering behaviour, where if one gives out a contact call, its siblings will immediately move to join it. They are weaned quickly, eating solid food from about a month old and reaching independence as early as four months.

Find a civet in the wild

Civets favour savannah and forest habitats and are absent from the more arid areas of Botswana, Namibia and South Africa. Though widely distributed, their nocturnal and elusive habits make encountering one in the wild a rare treat. In southern Africa, the dry and cold winter months offer the best chance of a sighting, as the civets are more likely to move at dusk.

Given Africa’s profusion of charismatic animals, it is perhaps inevitable that some of the smaller, more obscure species might be overlooked in all the excitement of a safari. Yet the Africa civet is one of the continent’s unique offerings – a silent phantom that stalks the African night.

Enchanted Mana Pools

After years of exploring Southern Africa’s wildlife havens, Irene Amiet finally had the chance to take her camera to Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools National Park. The resulting experience brought enrichment beyond compare. Irene’s gallery of images reflect the other-worldly wilderness of Mana Pools’ buzzing floodplains, nebulous forests and hidden gems.

“Capturing a sense of what we’ve lost in our world of connectivity isn’t always simple. But, every day, on a dusty airstrip somewhere in Africa, a traveller breathes a sigh of relief as they step out into the bush to escape the grind and experience Africa’s wilderness, taking the opportunity to try.

Mana Pools provides more than thriving ecosystems and lily-covered ponds. Its waters dispense nourishment to the tired minds seeking adventure in its mopane woods. The magic of Mana Pools lies in the secretive glimpse it provides into a world almost too manifold to capture visually (to start planning your African safari to Mana Pools, click here). But I was determined to soak up the experience and photograph the extraordinary moments I experienced while there.

While visiting the park, I learn of its trajectory of conservation success. No elephant has been poached in the park in the past three years. The reason? According to Nick Murray, a driving force behind local anti-poaching successes and founder of Bushlife Conservancy, it’s simple: ‘Boots on the ground and proper vehicles’. It comes down to money and means to equip rangers appropriately to do their jobs well.

It’s fitting then that we witness the famous bull ‘Tusker’ in action while visiting Mana Pools. We find Tusker browsing the soft grass on the islands in the floodplains one evening. We watch him from a boat as he towers above us, the last sunlight highlighting his silhouette against the Zambezi Escarpment, creating an unforgettable moment I am pleased to capture through my lens.

As Zimbabwe allows visitors to step out of their vehicles in national parks when accompanied by a guide, the area of Mana Pools along the floodplains, dotted by groves of towering ana trees, provides for artists and photographers in an unparalleled way. Sitting under a mopane tree as elephants approach from a woodland of dusty jade-green, heartbeats don’t accelerate but slow with our breathing. We witness elephants reaching up into the trees, finding seed pots, and breaking off branches. An impala snorts in the distance, and a flock of bright little lovebirds flutters past. Three baboons break the silhouette of trees further down, traced by the sun in gold. For a moment, the world is at balance.”

Radio collars are a helpful tool for monitoring elephant migrations through the Zambezi Valley. Irene and her party spotted Tusker the elephant wearing one of these collars

Zebras highlighted by the day’s first rays

Resources

Mana Pools is Africa’s iconic park for bushwalking without a guide – renowned for encounters on foot with wild dogs & relaxed elephant bulls. Read everything there is to know about Mana Pools National Park here.

Want to see more of Mana Pools? This fantastic photo gallery capturing the magic of Mana Pools will have you grabbing your camera, packing your bag and booking your African safari with us. See how to book below this story.

|Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park

In the mirage-like desert setting of |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, the unearthly shapes of strange trees lean longingly north towards the blazing sun. At a distance, they look uncannily like people, and they were once – or so the Nama legend goes. When fierce conflict drove the defeated Nama tribespeople out of more fertile lands in Namibia, they fled to the boulder-strewn desert of the south. Yet for some, the grief and yearning proved insurmountable, and they stopped to gaze back toward their beloved homeland. The gods took pity on these lost souls and turned them into “halfmens” trees (“half-human”, half-plant) to be forever consoled with their last view of home.

These eldritch plants are just one of the many ecological oddities of the rugged and seemingly inhospitable |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park. From an unparalleled array of succulents and an unusual subspecies of zebra to a river oasis and spectacular canyon views, it is a land for adventurous souls and enthusiastic naturalists. With an emphasis on self-sufficiency and wilderness appeal, the park is a place to lose phone signal and find peace beneath the dazzling expanse of the Milky Way.

|Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park

As the name suggests, |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park straddles the border between South Africa and Namibia. The South African Richtersveld National Park and the Namibian |Ai|-Ais Hot Springs Game Park combine to protect over 6,000 km² (600,000 hectares) of mountainous, arid habitat. The border between the two countries follows the sinuous curves of the sluggish Orange River – the longest river in South Africa and the only permanent water source in the entire region. On the South African side, the UNESCO Richtersveld Cultural and Botanical Landscape World Heritage Site is contiguous with the southern section of the national park. This vast area is communally owned and managed by the semi-nomadic Nama people, many of whom still follow the day-to-day traditions of their forefathers.

It takes time for the eye to adjust and appreciate the sharp geology and haunting beauty of this corner of Africa. At first glance, it is a remote desert that appears almost surrealistically harsh, baked hard under the searing sun, with some areas receiving less than 50mm of rainfall each year. Yet nature, in its indomitable manner, always finds a way, and the sharp quartz fields, plunging valleys, and sandy plains are bursting with endemic life for those who know where (and when) to look.

Much of this life is centred around the Orange River valley, an oasis of green where even Cape clawless otters are occasionally spotted frolicking in the murky water. Away from the river, the region’s fauna and flora are sustained by the thick mists rolling off the nearby Atlantic Ocean, floating life-giving water inland to be soaked in and supped up by thirsty desert dwellers. The Nama people call these mists “Ihuries” or “malmokkies”, and they provide a vital supplement to the scarce rains. Though the timing and amount vary, these rains usually arrive in winter over the park’s western section. They, in turn, are followed by an explosion of colour as flowers emerge to drape the landscape in a multi-hued blanket.

The allure of the almost alien landscape is coupled with the thrill of transcending the frills and fancies of modern life. To visit is to humble oneself in a vast and silent wilderness, untamed and all but untouched. It offers the chance to truly vanish “off the grid” – to drive for hours without another person in sight, to picnic on the banks of the Orange River and pitch a tent beneath the inky sky.

Sticks and stones

Strange though it may seem, rocks and plants are the superstars of the |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park experience. Some of the fascinating geological formations date back billions of years, with subsequent layers of rock displaying the history of the Earth’s epochs in an enormous geographic diorama. Massive granite boulders the size of buildings and streaks of blinding white Rosyntjieberg quartzite speak to the power of the ancient forces that shaped the very foundations of our planet. (Indeed, one particular formation even appears to bear the mark of a giant handprint, earning it the name Hand of God.) Moreover, the Namibian side of the park is home to the largest canyon in Africa – the Fish River Canyon (more on this later).

In keeping with the topographical theme, the plant life here is equally hardy and rugged, though nonetheless beautiful in its own way. The botanical hotspot of the Richtersveld is home to thousands of plant species, of which over 30% are believed to be endemic, and some may even be undiscovered. The |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld region is also widely acknowledged by experts as home to the richest array of succulents.

Aside from their poignant mythology, the spikey halfmens trees (Pachypodium namaquanum) are iconic survivors found nowhere else. These rare plants grow during the winter months, facing north to take advantage of available sunlight, and when it rains, the tips are adorned in a headdress of crimson flowers. Equally striking are the towering shapes of the quiver trees (Aloidendron dichotomum), jutting into the sky against the barren backdrop. Charming little rock-like succulents of the Conophytum genus pebble the ground alongside chubby botterboom plants (Tylecodon paniculatus). Botanically, no other desert in the world supports such an abundance of life.

Halfmens trees are found nowhere else on Earth

Though the floristic displays somewhat overshadow the animal life, there are several species of antelope in the park, including grey rhebok, gemsbok, steenbok, klipspringer and kudu, as well as records of elusive caracal and leopard. Keen-eyed visitors may also be fortunate to spot some of the small herds of Hartmann’s mountain zebra – a rare subspecies distinguishable by a well-developed dewlap and stripes extending the entire length of the leg.

Richtersveld National Park

The South African portion of the Transfrontier park consists of several campsites, a network of 4×4 tracks and several seasonal hiking trails. The main entrance to the park can be found at Sendelingsdrift, which acts as the unofficial capital of the park. Here, visitors will find a shop, a swimming pool, the only fuel station, and well-appointed basic chalets with electricity: the last vestiges of civilisation before entering the wilds of the park. There is also a border post here, with a pont available to transport vehicles across the Orange River to the Namibian side of the park.

De Hoop and Richtersberg campsites are positioned on the lush banks of the Orange River, making them ideal for families. The river is crocodile-free, so unsupervised rafting and swimming are permitted, perfect for plunging in to cool off and wash away the day’s dust. Kokerboomkloof campsite lies away from the river, pressed against some of the most exquisite rock formations in the park. And for those that blanch at the thought of erecting a tent and cold showers, Tatasberg and Gannakouriep wilderness camps have chalets with solar-powered lights and gas geysers for the showers.

During winter, visitors can opt for overnight hiking trails ranging from one to three nights in the park. The company of an expert guide is highly recommended, but this is a visceral way to experience the park, encountering an amphitheatre, waterfall, gorges, Tswaies mountains, and springs along the way.

Tatasberg, situated on the edge of the Orange River, offers visitors solar lights and gas geysers

|Ai|-Ais Hot Springs Game Park

Most of the activities and accommodations on the Namibian side of the park are centred around the Fish River Canyon. The name |Ai|-Ais means “burning water” in reference to the springs at the southern end of the canyon. Here, travellers can soak tired muscles and soothe sore joints in the thermal baths.

The canyon is Africa’s largest natural gorge, created by the Fish River, cutting deeply into a plateau over 600 million years. It reaches 160km long, up to 27km wide and around 550 metres deep in some sections. Panoramic views are a given, but it is also one of Namibia’s most popular hiking areas, with visitors opting to explore (or, for some very enthusiastic athletes, run) the entire length of the canyon. (Hiking the canyon must be booked in advance, and permission will only be granted on receipt of a medical fitness clearance.) Within the gorge, hidden caves hide ancient rock art, some dating back over 25,000 years.

Explore & stay in |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld

There is a particular breed of camper for whom no challenge is too great. These are the people with hiking boots practically welded to their feet, equipped with every camping convenience, who can change a wheel with the skill of an F1 pit crew and erect a tent with equal efficiency. |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park is the perfect destination for such intrepid explorers. However, this is not to say that those with less experience should be intimidated; it is simply a matter of preparation.

The winter months, from around May until August/September, offer the best time to visit, both for the chance to witness the short flowering season and because the temperatures are slightly more bearable. This is, after all, a desert, and summer temperatures can peak over 50˚C before plunging towards freezing at night. Route planning is essential, as is a GPS to ensure that the planned route is followed. Throw in two spare wheels, plenty of fuel and an excess of drinking water, and you’re all set to explore the moonscape of the park from top to bottom. Remember not to leave any valuables outside overnight, as the malmokkies may blow in overnight!

A majestic quiver tree – a common sight in the park

Final thoughts on |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld

There is an undercurrent of magic in |Ai|-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, which makes it possible to believe that perhaps strange plants were men once and that giant hands played a role in shaping the landscape. The improbable biodiversity in this beautiful but harsh landscape is infinitely fascinating, offering the opportunity to embrace Africa in all her weird and wonderful ways.

Uganda birding bonanza

Few countries in Africa offer birding opportunities quite as magical as the feast served up by Uganda. A birding safari to Uganda provides the chance to rack up fantastic sightings, with more than 1,065 bird species recorded in the country. Uganda’s varied habitats cover high and low altitude ranges, from afro-montane rain forests and wooded landscapes to grassland savannahs, marshes, papyrus swamps, fallow agricultural lands, lakes and arid areas. And the result is an astronomical diversity of birds to see.

When birding and wildlife photographer Col Roberts challenged teamAG’s resident birding pro, Christian Boix, to weave together a month-long birding safari covering the majority of the country’s habitats, AG’s safari experts were thrilled to oblige.

“To make things more interesting, I specified that I was mainly interested in seedeaters – waxbills, weavers, whydahs and parrots,” says Col. “But, how could I refuse other beauties such as turacos, barbets, papyrus gonoleks and the prehistoric-looking shoebill? I also specified I had a limited budget and was happy to stay in mid-to-budget-range accommodation.”

With that, teamAG got to work, and Col was soon off on a birding odyssey across the country, with Lake Victoria (and Mabamba Swamp), Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve, Kidepo Valley National Park, Masindi, Kibale Forest National Park, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Mabira Forest Reserve, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Lake Mburo National Park lined up on his itinerary.

Enjoy a few of the highlights Col experienced on his trip below. Or to find the ideal African birding safari for you, click here.

Cover image: Great blue turaco in Kibale Forest National Park

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

As home to many endemic and rare bird species, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is the soul of Uganda birding. About 350 species, including 24 Albertine Rift endemics, can be found within Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

Mabira Forest Reserve

Mabira Forest Reserve is the largest natural forest in the central part of Uganda, and hosts about 315 bird species. While conditions for photography can be tricky (as with all forest birding), a trip to the forest guarantees excellent sightings.

Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve

Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve is the largest wildlife reserve in Uganda, hosting more than 242 bird species, including savannah birds, migratory birds and endemics.

Uganda birding — (Clockwise from top) “I was fascinated by how the white-crested helmetshrikes searched for food together and flitted about from tree to tree in a group,” says Col; a red-and-yellow barbet spotted while driving between Pian Upe and Kidepo Valley; a red-cheeked cordon-bleu photographed just outside Col’s accommodation at Pian Upe Wildlife Authority bandas

Kidepo Valley National Park

The remote Kidepo Valley National Park stretches across the Karamoja region of northeast Uganda and is home to over 450 species of birds. Vast tracts of savannah are dotted with hills and rock clusters, traversed by the forest-flanked Lorupei River.

(Clockwise from top) White-crested turaco photographed en route between Pian Upe and Kidepo Valley; a sighting of a purple grenadier within Kidepo Valley National Park, not far from the South Sudanese border; a black-bellied firefinch – a reasonably common sight in Kidepo Valley; Kidepo Valley is also a prolific wildlife-viewing destination, with elephant sightings common in the park

Lake Victoria (and Mabamba Swamp)

Lake Victoria is the largest freshwater body in Africa and is home to about 260 bird species. From Entebbe and Lake Victoria, travellers can easily access Mabamba Swamp and its papyrus-lined marshes – for excellent sightings of shoebills.

Col spotted several shoebills while visiting Mabamba Swamp (Lake Victoria); seeing grey parrots in the lush grounds at Karibu Guest House in Entebbe was a highlight of the trip

Kibale National Park

Six Albertine Rift endemics occur in Kibale Forest, and about 375 bird species can be seen across the area’s wetlands, tropical forests, woodlands and savannah.

Queen Elizabeth National Park

Over 600 bird species have been recorded in Queen Elizabeth National Park across various habitats – from savannah to dense forest, lakes and wetlands. Col visited the south of Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Lake Mburo National Park

Lake Mburo National Park offers epic birding at its lake swamps, Warukiri and Rwonyo. Other habitats include dry hillsides, rocky outcrops and dense savannah. A total of 320 bird species occur here, including papyrus gonolek and shoebills.

Follow Col Roberts at @colrobertsphotography on Instagram and Facebook. His works have been published in the books Finches of Australia and Gouldian – the World’s Most Beautiful Finch.

THIS WEEK

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🌟📷 And the winner is… 📷🌟

It seems impossible to believe, but the moment we have all been waiting for is finally here: it is time to reveal the winner, runners-up and highly commended images for Photographer of the Year 2023!

Over the four months of the competition, we received well over 7,000 entries, 361 of which were selected to feature in our weekly galleries. Given the exceptional standard of photographic talent on display, choosing the best of the best was a formidable task. We are incredibly proud of this year’s gallery of champions – congratulations to you all!

I want to extend our thanks on behalf of teamAG to each and every photographer who shared their celebration of Africa with us. Every year, we comment on what a privilege it is to be treated to such a display of artistry, patience, dedication, good fortune and technical mastery of the photographic craft.

Last but not least, leopards may not be able to change their spots, but they may inherit them. In our story below, fascinating research reveals what genetic conclusions we can draw from leopard pelage patterns.

Jamie Paterson – Scientific Editor, Africa Geographic

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-winners/
WINNING IMAGES
Congratulations to our champions! See the winning image, runners-up and highly commended entries from Photographer of the Year
2023!

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/spot-the-difference-do-leopards-inherit-their-patterns-from-their-mothers/
SPOT THE DIFFERENCE
Research shows that leopards inherit their patterns of rosettes and whisker spots from their mothers – an exciting finding in leopard genetics

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Are you yearning for a travel fix but not sure where to start? Find inspiration for your unforgettable safari getaway from our featured experiences below:

Chitake Springs – Mana Pools – 6days/5nights – from US$ 4,130 per solo traveller
Only two spots left on this epic photographic safari, led by two expert guides and devised for adventurous travellers and photographers seeking raw, untamed wildlife action. There are few better places than Chitake Springs in Mana Pools National Park to witness dry season Africa at its most dramatic. Departing September 2023. The perfect safari for solo travellers, as there is NO single supplement.

Stay at Pelo
Pelo – a remote and charming camp on a heart-shaped island in the Okavango Delta – takes its name from the Setswana word meaning “heart”. A birder’s paradise, this delightful retreat was designed as a light-footprint camp, built using natural materials, operating on 100% solar power and offering low-impact, carbon-neutral activities.

Bucket list gorilla experience

Thank you to the Spencer family for the 5-star review. We are thrilled that you chose teamAG to craft your dream Rwanda safari.

“My family and I have just returned from a wonderful trip to Rwanda to see the gorillas . It was a trip of a lifetime – a bucket list trip that was realised! The sightings of the golden monkeys and gorillas were absolutely amazing and so were the local tours. The guides, rangers and our driver were so professional.
Thank you Christian for arranging an unforgettable trip.”

Want to go on a gorilla trekking safari? Inquire today and let’s start planning!

WATCH: One of those Mara River crossings where the herds just kept coming. What a fantastic experience! Note that the vehicle was not blocking the path of the herds (01:45). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2023 Winners

Ladies and gentlemen, prepare to be dazzled as we unveil the highly anticipated winners of our prestigious Photographer of the Year 2023 competition! After careful consideration, we are thrilled to reveal the talented individuals who have best captured the essence of Africa through their extraordinary photographs.

The winner and two runners-up will share the impressive $10,000 prize money, and they and their partners will join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife, Lizz, on the ultimate private safari in the wilderness paradise of Botswana.

We would like to thank our generous sponsors, Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana, whose support has been invaluable.

A note from our CEO:

This year found us enjoying more high-quality entries in the final selection month than ever before, and this final selection of the winners was a particularly tough one. This gallery of our winners emphasises the gobsmackingly awesome biodiversity of this place. Just wow!

What stood out for us this year was how well our entrants captured movement (sometimes in poor light), and this year we decided to select our top three entries based on that aspect of photography. We don’t decide these things beforehand; each year, the entries lead us down different paths of celebration.

Lastly, a word about the use of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance and generate photos: we suspect that AI will dominate all photographic competitions going forward – including the submission of computer-generated images – and so we will need to change how we manage our selection process. We have no interest in permitting computer-generated images into our space, but using AI to enhance images is another story. AI will become as much a part of photo editing as Photoshop is now, and it’s up to us to draw firm lines in the sand if we are to continue celebrating authentic photography. Technology-driven change is a constant in this industry, some good and some bad. It is what it is; we will keep working hard to deliver on our promise of celebrating Africa (the real Africa) and doing good. On that note, every photographer in this Winner’s gallery submitted RAW photographic files for our inspection.

Congratulations to every photographer that made it through thousands of entries to appear in our weekly selections, Top 101, Finalists and these Winners. Thanks for trusting us with your beautiful work, and please keep the flag of authentic photography flying high. See you again in 2024!

WINNER – PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR 2023

Photographer of the Year winner — Soaked after an afternoon shower. “The rains in Mara open doors for some very unique and magical frames.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Remya Warrier

Judges’ comment:

Capturing this big male lion shaking his mane in such sharp focus is no mean feat. The challenges of rapid movement and early morning light are met with great skill, and the excellent post-production edits create a dramatic yet moody image worthy of our award. The backlit halo of water droplets creates an otherworldly effect.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“‘It’s all about learning to dance in the rains.’ At the line of the equator at an altitude of over 5,000 ft (1,534 m), the Mara rains create a captivating display of water and sun, blending together in a vibrant tapestry of light and shade. This breathtaking phenomenon is rarely witnessed elsewhere but is unknown to many who avoid visiting during the monsoon season. On that particular day, dark rain clouds were gathering, and we decided to venture out in search of male lions as they presented our best photographic opportunity. Fortunately, the Black Rock lion pride had been spotted near our camp earlier that day. We quickly located the pride, consisting of a dozen lions, including two males and a few cubs. The next step involved waiting patiently, peering through the viewfinder in anticipation of capturing the golden moment when the lions would shake off the water from their manes. It was crucial to find an angle with a dark background for the composition, as only against such a backdrop could the flying droplets of water gleam like stars. By utilising a higher shutter speed, I was able to freeze those airborne, luminous droplets, resulting in the captivating image presented here.”

About photographer Remya Warrier

Remya Warrier is a passionate wildlife photographer, naturalist and conservationist hailing from Kerala, India. She completed her wildlife field guiding course in Botswana’s Mashatu Game Reserve in 2018. Her childhood love of wildlife has taken her to various biodiversity hotspots around the world. Remya was settled in Singapore and used to conduct nature walks and talks for kids and adults, spreading flora & fauna knowledge among them. She, along with her husband & friends, also set up a farm in India. There she established afforestation projects that have restored natural water cycles and seen the return of several bird species. In 2021, Remya moved to Maasai Mara, Kenya, to pursue her passion for wildlife photography and conservation initiatives. She also co-founded Rhino Lovers NGO & Osero Sopia River Camp, Maasai Mara, Kenya.

Social: @warrier_remya

RUNNERS-UP

(in no specific order)

Judges’ comment:

This is the leopard picture that everyone wants to get – that split-second after mating when the male bounces away to avoid the inevitable backlash. The low angle, shallow depth of field and sharp focus capture the moment perfectly and emphasise that unique leopard ability to exude power and grace simultaneously.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“I located these leopards in a tree during the mid-morning. While in the tree, the female leopard would approach the male and nudge him to initiate mating. However, he showed no interest in her. Returning later, I waited for the leopards to descend the tree. After a few hours, they began to show signs of getting active. I had photographed this male leopard before and recognised him as a younger individual. Shortly the leopards began the mating ritual. However, the male’s inexperience seemed to exacerbate their confrontation, and the action and expression were quite intense. Capturing this image was challenging as the light was fading quickly. I used a 2.8 aperture and higher ISO to maintain a fast shutter speed. This image was selected and presented to the president of Botswana from the safari lodge and reserve where it was taken.”

About photographer Kevin Dooley

Kevin Dooley, an award-winning Wildlife and Portrait/Wedding Photographer from Placitas, New Mexico, discovered his passion for photography at age 14 when he received a 35mm camera as a gift. He holds a photographic craftsmen’s degree, a master’s degree, and the prestigious imaging excellence award from the Professional Photographers of America’s degree program. Starting as an assistant and darkroom technician in his father’s portrait studio, Kevin embarked on a lifelong photography career. After serving in the US Navy, he established his own photography studio in Albuquerque, which garnered numerous awards and publications over its 40-year operation until its recent retirement. Africa holds a special place in Kevin’s heart, and he enjoys sharing its wonders with others, teaching about wildlife, trees, and the region’s history. He is also a compassionate humanitarian who uses photography to inspire and foster a love for life and nature.

Social: @kevindooley_idubephotosafaris

Judges’ comment:

Few will get to encounter a desert-adapted chameleon in a sandstorm – let alone capture the moment perfectly. The horizontally propelled sand particles ricocheting off the grimacing, slit-eyed reptile creates the scene, and the shallow depth of field and sharp focus do the rest. To lie down to achieve the low-level perspective in a sand storm that could damage your equipment speaks to the authentic journey of a passionate wildlife photographer

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“The Namib desert is one of the most extreme environments on Earth, with a complete lack of surface water and temperatures exceeding 45˚C in the daytime. Despite this, life is abundant if you know where to look. Sandstorms are frequent, with winds blowing down from inland mountains that stir up fine sediment and particles. A Namaqua chameleon has to endure the sting of the sand pebbles blowing against its skin while we were lucky enough to escape to the relative comfort of our 4×4.”

About photographer Dewald Tromp

Originally from Windhoek, Namibia, Dewald grew up in a small rural town called Belfast, Mpumalanga. As a child, all his family holidays were spent in the Kruger National Park or camping or hiking. This is where his love for nature was cultivated. Although he works in the medical field, wildlife photography has been his passion for the last 20 years. Dewald and his wife have travelled extensively around the globe to photograph rare and interesting wildlife. Through his images, he would like to influence people to start thinking about conservation and protecting the last remaining wild places on Earth.

Social: @dewald.tromp.9

HIGHLY COMMENDED

(in no specific order)

Judges’ comment:

The moment of bliss as this old soul fills his lungs is well-captured. We can almost smell the smoke and feel the sensual overload as he is transported into a relaxed state. The low angle and shallow depth of field create distance between him and us; the portrait does not seem to be at the expense of his personal space.

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“We had sat down for a rest one afternoon under the shade of some trees while on our walk, and this San elder took out what I first thought was a pipe. It turned out to be his smoking apparatus, and upon closer inspection, it was an old artillery shell. He had just danced himself into a trance last night before passing out, and I was curious if it had something to do with what he was smoking. We swapped, and I took a puff. It was nothing I was familiar with, but it didn’t have any expected effects – it was natural and slightly herbal. We had spent two nights with this San tribe in Xai Xai to understand their lives in modern Botswana better and to experience a taste of what it used to be like. This photograph was taken on Expedition Kalahari, as part of a trilogy on Botswana’s three habitats: the Okavango Delta, the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans and the Kalahari Desert.”

About photographer Alwyn Chong

Alwyn Chong is a photographer based in Singapore, where he also shoots for Leica Camera. He has a passion for black and white photography, and his motivations extend to storytelling through his photographs. He is a self-published photographer of two books: “Odyssey ‘Picturing and Imaging the Okavango Delta'” and “Finding the Other Side, Horizons Upon the Makgadikgadi” which document his expeditions in Botswana (a country that holds a special place in his heart).

Social: @alwyn.chong

Judges’ comment:

There are about 125 mature Perrier’s sifaka left in the wild – making this critically endangered primate the rarest lemur on Earth. As if the task of finding one is not challenging enough, the photographer overcame bright sky, jet-black lemur fur and poor woodland light to create this evocative image of a sifaka seeming to peer out of the abyss of its conservation status.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“This image was captured in the forests of Anjahakely, northeast Madagascar. The hope for the day was to locate and photograph the critically endangered Perrier’s sifaka, not an easy task with an estimated 125 mature individuals left in the wild. Luckily, with the help of local guides, I found them and started shooting. Let me tell you, photographing such dark animals while looking up into a bright forest canopy is not easy. Eventually, after following the lemurs through the rough terrain, one stayed still long enough for me to capture this shot. I loved how the sifaka looked up into the light breaking through the canopy high above. Amazingly we both held still long enough for me to shoot this at a shutter speed of 1/80 of a second, adjusting my ISO to compensate for the dark forest. A matter of seconds after this shot, it had bounded through the trees and was at least 50 metres away. A memorable day in the wilds of Madagascar.”

About photographer Andrew Macdonald

Andrew Macdonald is a freelance photographer and videographer from Scotland who currently resides in Cape Town. He is passionate about all things wildlife and nature, and he hopes that viewers of his work can see the photos and feel them, too, as he tries to capture the most emotive moments. His photography has taken him from his small hometown village in Scotland all the way to the South Pole, and he is always ready for an adventure with his camera in hand.

Social: @a_mac_photo

Judges’ comment:

This layered chocolate cake forest elephant in the middle of a muddy baï seems caught in a moment of indecision. The whiff of humans has triggered a silent alarm, but the protection of cover is some way off. The photographer has perfectly captured the body language of this secretive giant of the dense, gloomy rainforest

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Dzanga Baï is one of the most famous gathering places for elephants anywhere on the continent, if not worldwide. This enormous clearing, located deep in the heart of the seemingly impenetrable Central African forest, can be occupied by up to 150 elephants per day as they amble from the surrounding forests into the baï to mine for minerals, paint themselves in the varying tones of earth that are all around the clearing, and socialise. Mining is a key part of the daily ritual for forest elephants, fulfilling a dietary niche, and baïs such as Dzanga are essential in allowing this activity to occur in peace. Whilst photographing the region for an upcoming book, I had the privilege to work there for a couple of weeks and witness the comings and goings of these gentle giants from ground level…some a bit more curious than others!

About photographer Andy Skillen

Andy Skillen has been a wildlife photographer and photojournalist for nearly 30 years, covering natural history on all continents. In addition to books and magazine articles, Andy supplies fine art limited edition prints to collectors worldwide and engages in talks and trip-leading on an international basis. Andy’s passion is conservation, and as such hopes that the places he visits, documents and reports on inspire others to see the wonder in the wild that surrounds them and step up to take an active part in its preservation.

Social: @andyskillenphoto

Judges’ comment:

This photograph had us marvelling at how much food can be stuffed into the gaping maw of such a tiny bird – rigid carapace, wings and all! But also about how hard the parents work to fledge their broods. An excellent natural history portrayal that makes us appreciate less popular photographic subjects!

Photographer and photo details – read more

“After a long morning self-drive in Pilanesberg National Park, I decided to stretch my legs and visit Mankwe Hide. This hide, located on the western edge of Mankwe Dam, provides great opportunities for photographing birds and other wildlife. While standing in the hide, I heard the familiar noises of chicks begging for food and found two juvenile white-throated swallows perched on a support beam. They were in an awkward position, the difficult angle making it challenging to maintain stability and focus. Luckily, I did not have to wait long as one of the parents swooped down, resulting in a flurry of movement. I was not sure if I managed to get the shot, but I was delighted when viewing the results on the back camera screen. What a surprise to see the size of the dragonfly caught and fed to the chick!”

About photographer Dustin Van Helsdingen

Dustin, a 39-year-old nature and wildlife enthusiast based in Rustenburg, South Africa, discovered his passion for wildlife photography in 2014 when his wife gifted him a DSLR camera for his birthday trip to a private game reserve. Since then, he has been captivated by the world of nature and wildlife. Regular visits to game reserves have provided him with countless opportunities to observe and capture the behaviour of animals, granting him a deeper understanding and unique perspective of their world. It’s not just about the iconic Big 5; Dustin has developed a newfound appreciation for the beauty of landscapes, trees, insects, and all living things. Through his lens, he perceives the world with a new lens (excuse the pun!).

Social: @dustin.vanhelsdingen

Judges’ comment:

The swirling mud and choice of black & white combined with the front-on, low-down perspective grabbed the eyes and left us pondering—a marvellous portrayal of this threatened and seldom-seen gentle creature of the seas

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“‘ Critically endangered.’ Once a common sight around Africa, dugong populations have drastically declined due to seagrass habitat loss, human pressure, and the potentially devastating impacts of climate change on their main food source. Thankfully, the Lagoons of Abu Dabbab in Egypt still offer refuge for a few of these majestic sea creatures. In August 2022, I had the incredible opportunity to observe a large male dugong feeding in the area. After hours of studying its behaviour, I positioned myself to capture an image showcasing its raw power and beauty as it vacuumed up seagrass amongst the billowing sediment clouds.”

About photographer Francis Glassup

Francis Glassup, a graduate in Oceanography from the University of Plymouth in the UK, is an accomplished underwater photographer whose works have garnered recognition in several underwater photography competitions. With a deep affinity for the ocean, Francis finds solace and fulfilment beneath the surface, capturing captivating moments as he patiently awaits the unexpected. Through his photography, he aspires to raise awareness about the imperative need for robust conservation efforts to protect our precious oceans.

Social: @francisglassup

Judges’ comment:

So, how many words is a picture worth? This poignant photograph has a specific raison d’être – to generate international awareness and support for the plight of Central Africa’s primates. The onslaught of poaching for bushmeat, muti and the pet trade threaten the remaining populations of great apes and other primates. We think the photographer has succeeded admirably in his mission.

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“Bakossi, a Nigeria-Cameroon chimpanzee (Pan troglodytes ellioti), explores her surroundings with curiosity in the comforting presence of her dedicated caregiver, Queen. Orphaned chimpanzees, like Bakossi, require intensive care and compassion to recover from the trauma of losing their mothers. Shockingly, for every infant chimpanzee captured alive, an estimated 5-10 chimpanzees are killed in the wild. Queen is part of the team at Limbe Wildlife Centre, a rescue and rehabilitation centre focusing on the unique species of Cameroon. With 30 years of experience, the centre provides love and commitment to help traumatised chimpanzees build trust and embark on their rehabilitation journey. Currently, the Limbe Wildlife Centre cares for 41 chimpanzees, 14 western lowland gorillas, 67 drills, and more.”

About photographer Gerard Carbonell

Gerard Carbonell, born in Barcelona in 1999, is a biologist and dedicated conservation photographer. Through his captivating images, Gerard endeavours to deepen our comprehension of the natural world and our intricate connection with it. His primary objective as a photographer is to raise awareness about the significance of biodiversity and its habitats, shedding light on the commendable efforts undertaken by various organisations and local communities to protect them. Gerard’s compelling visual narratives aim to instil a sense of urgency among people, encouraging support for conservation initiatives.

Social: @geri_carbonell

Judges’ comment:

The photographer’s journey to achieve the desired result you see here is what makes this an epic capture. Hannes (our 2021 Photographer of the Year) combines detailed planning, patience, the right equipment and exceptional technical skill to tell the story of a small waterhole in a South African private game reserve.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“After months of monitoring the waterhole, I noticed the spotted genet’s interest in the fish underwater. To capture this moment, I placed a camera in a homemade waterproof housing and triggered the camera from a distance. I utilised three different light sources: a soft light for underwater and two bounce sidelights. I worked on this particular image for a few years: photographs like this need a lot of planning, and you need to know exactly where, when, and how long these animals are in the area. Then, they must do exactly what you hope they will do. That’s why it took me quite a few years to get this image.”

About photographer Hannes Lochner

Hannes Lochner is an acclaimed wildlife photographer with over 15 years of experience. He has produced five stunning photographic books, three focusing on the Kalahari. Hannes dedicated six years of his life to living in the Kalahari and spent hundreds of hours capturing mesmerising images of its unique landscape and enigmatic inhabitants. He then ventured to Botswana’s Okavango Delta, spending two and a half years there with his wife, Noa, who handles the filming for their projects. Hannes is working on his sixth publication, “Once Upon a Time.” The image provided is the cover of his upcoming book, set to be published this year.

Social: @hannes_lochner

Judges’ comment:

Less is more. Tree frogs make delightful photographic subjects, and we receive many fantastic entries displaying them in various poses and locations. This entry stood out for us because the peering frog creates the impression of a show about to start – of actors gathered nervously behind the curtains, peering out at the hushed, expectant audience.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“During our visit to Durban in December 2022, we enjoyed staying near a small stream. I had hoped to spot a little forest tree frog in the area. I could hear their calls every night, but they remained elusive in the treetops. One rainy night, I ventured out and diligently searched until I found a couple of frogs to photograph. Two days later, just after sunset, I spotted this particular frog (having a rough idea of its hiding spot) and seized the opportunity to capture this unique photo. The frog was quite shy, as it was still early evening, creating the perfect conditions for this shot. While they blend seamlessly into their daytime surroundings, these frogs come alive at night, vocally announcing their presence and showing no fear of human scrutiny.”

About photographer Hendrik Louw

Hendrik has been an amateur photographer for the last 24 years and still enjoys it to its fullest extent. His love for photography started with a second-hand camera in 1999 when he joined a photographic club. He enjoys all genres of photography, but his real passion is macro photography. Frogs, mantises, and spiders tend to visit his camera fairly often when in the right environment since he is madly in love with these colourful little creatures. He is also one of the few macro photographers playing with alternative techniques such as wide-angle macro. His macro photography has earned many achievements, including several awards in multiple international photographic competitions. Despite being an amateur, he enthusiastically shares his passion through workshops and participation in photographic congresses. Outside of photography, Hendrik is an environmental manager and climate change specialist.

Social: @hempieslouw

Judges’ comment:

Who doesn’t like a great predation action photograph? This, too, is a popular theme amongst entries to Photographer of the Year, and for us, there has to be more than blood and crazy eyes. The photographer caught this fast-moving moment perfectly, as the large male topi fights for its life, and the cheetah coalition males combine forces to bring him down.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“These cheetahs are part of the renowned “Tano Bora” coalition, originally consisting of five cheetahs, and we were closely monitoring them as their hunting skills are legendary in the Maasai Mara. On this day, a lone topi approached the cheetahs, triggering their swift transition into hunting mode. While camera settings and tracking skills are important, understanding animal behaviour and terrain is crucial for success. Our guide, Jackson Ronko, skilfully positioned us about 150m away, anticipating the hunt’s trajectory along the ridge line. The cheetahs chased the topi against the backdrop of a clear sky and successfully made their kill. The image captures the moment when the cheetahs brought down the topi, showcasing their hunting prowess to bring down such large prey. Overall, the experience highlighted the importance of knowledgeable guides like Jackson, who can anticipate animal behaviour and position photographers for incredible opportunities.”

About photographer Ivan Glaser

Ivan was born into a family of wildlife and photography enthusiasts in South Africa, where his deep passion for African wildlife and wildlife photography took root at an early age. Sharing this passion through his photography has always brought him joy. In his mid-twenties, Ivan emigrated to Australia and began his corporate career. During those years, his focus shifted away from wildlife and photography as his professional responsibilities and family took precedence. However, in 2019 an extraordinary opportunity presented itself when Ivan joined an Africa Geographic photo safari to the Maasai Mara. Under the expert guidance of renowned Norwegian wildlife photographer Arnfinn Johansen and in the welcoming embrace of Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp, Ivan’s wildlife photography skills radically transformed, reaffirming his love for Africa. Now in retirement, he is wholeheartedly pursuing his lifelong passion for wildlife and wildlife photography. Ivan continues to make regular trips back to the Maasai Mara, hosting guided safaris for small groups of fellow wildlife and photography enthusiasts who share his love for the natural world.

Website: https://madaboutmara.com

Judges’ comment:

Two things stand out for us about this photo. Firstly, the clarity around the eye of the ground-hornbill. We optimise images for web purposes but rest assured that this image is crystal clear. Secondly, the subject matter – any bird eating a tortoise is an eye-opener for most people, and seeing the tortoise all mushed up in the hornbill vice-grip brings home the message of the ruthless cycle of life.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“As the sun set over the Okavango, I was pressed for time. With Fabio as my guide, we ventured out from Duke’s Camp, aware that daylight was fading fast. In the marshland of the Delta, we unexpectedly came across a group of southern ground-hornbills. Amidst them, I spotted a striking solitary individual perched on a withered branch, its vibrant red collar contrasting with its dark feathers. Seizing the moment, I brought out my camera and aimed. I rarely use continuous shooting in my photography, so I took my time and held my camera as still as possible on a lower shutter speed to minimise blur. Back at camp, eager to review my shots and armed with a rusk and a cup of hot tea, I discovered a surprising detail: the ground-hornbill was feasting on a baby leopard tortoise! Excited, I couldn’t wait to share this remarkable find with Fabio.”

About photographer Jack Swynnerton

Jack Swynnerton, a professional photographer and videographer, was born in Australia but raised in Africa. Coming from a lineage intertwined with Tanzania’s history, Jack’s great-grandfather was the first game warden of Tanganyika (present-day mainland Tanzania), and his connection to the country runs deep. Growing up in Africa, Jack developed a profound affinity for the continent, its diverse cultures, and its people. After completing his high school and tertiary education in Scotland, Jack eventually answered the call to return to his homeland. Armed with newfound knowledge and a love for photography, he embarked on a journey to capture the beauty of Africa in his unique style. Recently, Jack has relocated to Nairobi, Kenya, where he offers his skills to prominent camps and companies in the region. With a passion for showcasing the beauty and soul of Africa, Jack continues to explore new areas and is emerging as one of the rising stars in African photography.

Social: @jackswynnerton

Judges’ comment:

This photograph is a raucous celebration of the gaudy blooms and delicious bounty of the brief boer-bean tree flowering season. The shallow depth of field and crystal focus on the parrot’s eye completes the sense of zooming in on this private moment of party-time gluttony.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“During a family visit to Kruger National Park in August 2022, we witnessed a beautiful sight—a brown-headed parrot feeding on vibrant red flowers. The contrasting colours of the green parrot, red flowers, and blue sky created a picturesque scene. Exploring the campsites on foot provides excellent opportunities for bird photography, and I have been pleasantly surprised by capturing unique moments of smaller animals within the campgrounds. This particular parrot was remarkably relaxed, allowing us to observe it up close as it fed on the flowers. Getting close to wildlife and observing their behaviour is always a remarkable experience, and sharing this special sighting with my entire family brought me great happiness.”

About photographer Joschka Voss

Joschka Voss, a 33-year-old medical doctor from Niederkassel, Germany, has a deep passion for travel, particularly in wild and untamed places, with a special affinity for exploring Africa. His love for these destinations developed during childhood trips to remote locations like Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Okavango Delta, South Luangwa National Park, Hwange National Park, and more. Over time, Joschka’s interest in wildlife photography grew, and he self-taught himself through online resources and tutorials. He always carries his camera when on vacation, eager to capture captivating moments. Wildlife and landscape photography have become cherished hobbies and passions for Joschka, who relies on a Sony Alpha 7RV and Sony Alpha 9, along with the 200-600mm and 100-400mm lenses, for his wildlife photography endeavours.

Social: @joschka.voss

Judges’ comment:

Seeing giraffes in a sea of sand dunes warps the mind somewhat and makes us question our perception of where the world’s tallest terrestrial animal hangs out. Add to that the curves of their duelling necks against the wavy dune backdrop, and you have a photograph that catches the eye and asks questions.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“The early morning light in the African bush provides exceptional photographic opportunities. While searching for desert-adapted lions in the Hoanib riverbed, the sound of repetitive thudding drew our attention. We discovered two bull giraffes engaged in a fierce sparring match. They took turns ramming their heads and horns into each other or evading the blows, creating a violent yet dance-like spectacle. This intense encounter lasted nearly an hour, and the barren backdrop of the Namib desert enhanced the beauty of their patterned coats as the sun rose over the horizon. Witnessing this extraordinary scene was a truly unique and special experience.”

About photographer Mark Nissenbaum

Mark, a Maxillofacial and Oral Surgeon originally from South Africa, moved to the USA in 2002, but leaving the African wilderness was heart-wrenching. To fill the void, he delved into photography, exploring nature in North America and Southern Africa, taking numerous courses and photo expeditions with professional wildlife and landscape photographers. Nature and landscape photography became his passion, and he finds joy in exploring the natural world with his wife and three sons and capturing its beauty. Mark believes life is an incredible journey, and his goal is to inspire others and foster a love for conserving and protecting our environment through his images.

Social: @mark_nissenbaum

Judges’ comment:

We do love a bit of blood and gore to emphasise the brutal reality of wild Africa. And this is a fantastic study of why vultures have long necks with few neck feathers. Africa’s clean-up crew are under-appreciated by those who don’t get to see them in action; hopefully, this photo changes that!

Photographer and photo details – read more

“In the heart of the Maasai Mara during the wildebeest migration, we stumbled across a fresh kill and decided to wait for the lion pride’s return to resume their feeding. However, the lions did not reappear. Instead, the skies were soon filled with a flock of Rüppell’s vultures descending upon the carcass, transforming the scene into a frenzy of competition. Amidst the chaos of flying flesh and blood, one vulture stood out, thrusting its entire head into the carcass and emerging drenched in blood. Captivated by its determination, I followed its movements through the lens, aiming to capture a frozen moment of its feast.”

About photographer Michael Stavrakakis

Michael Stavrakakis is an Australian photographer who quickly developed a deep passion for the people, culture, and wildlife of South Africa during his first visit in 2016. Mesmerised by the experience, he decided to make Johannesburg his home from 2017 – 2018, using his free time to explore neighbouring countries and national parks with his camera in hand. Ever since, he has regularly returned to the continent to spend time doing what he loves most – being immersed in the African bush and capturing the beauty of its wildlife.

Social: @pics.stavtook

Judges’ comment:

This epic capture of that geronimo! moment as a wildebeest commits to the abyss celebrates the chaotic melee of the river crossings during the Great Wildebeest Migration. A wonderful capture of a frenetic split-second in time.

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“‘One decides, the rest follow.’ The Great Migration is one of the greatest natural spectacles on Earth, and the crossings at the Mara River are chaotic, dramatic, and action-packed. Thousands of wildebeest gather on the riverbanks before one dares to take the first plunge. I remember watching documentaries and looking at photos of this moment, wondering if I would ever have the chance to witness and immortalise the scene. After several years and failed attempts, nature granted me that perfect unforgettable moment—the majestic leap of a wildebeest over the water I had always envisioned. I froze that instant in time, capturing the intensity of the event through the image, allowing us to feel the energy and survival instinct that drives the animals during their migration.”

About photographer Nando Morales

Nando Morales, born in 1982 in Spain, is a passionate photographer who grew up with a deep connection to nature and always showed a great interest in the animals and nature around him. He was gifted his first film camera as a teenager, and his love for nature merged with his newfound passion for photography. He has sought many opportunities to immerse himself in pristine landscapes far from civilisation, but it is in Africa, particularly Kenya, where he found the most magical corner. He always strives to immortalise moments that will profoundly impact the senses of viewers, conveying emotions and telling stories that take them on a journey, enriching their lives through visual experiences. His photographs have been selected for exhibitions, and he has been a finalist in several international photography contests. Although he doesn’t pursue photography as a professional career, he continues to enjoy every opportunity to capture special moments and tell stories through his images. His love for photography and his desire to improve and grow keep him seeking new challenges and opportunities.

Social: @nandomoralesphoto

Judges’ comment:

The story is in the eyes. Is this the end for me? Grim determination shrouded by the realisation that life may soon end is written all over this youngster’s face as it struggles against an ancient foe. The crocodile, on the other hand, is all reptilian business as it tries to secure another meal. What a story this photograph tells!

Photographer and photo details – read more

“When I arrived at the scene, I noticed several baboons gathered along the dry riverbank of the Tsavo River. I spotted a baboon in a puddle and began to film its supposed bath. Little did I know what was about to unfold…Suddenly, chaos erupted. The baboons began screaming frantically as the baboon in the water tried to escape. It wasn’t a simple fight between baboons but a struggle between the baboon and the crocodile. Each time the baboon tried to move or break free, the crocodile pulled it back into the water, attempting to drown it. The water level in the puddle was low, allowing the baboon to keep its head above the water and breathe. In moments of stillness, the baboon demonstrated remarkable composure, seemingly aware that movement could increase the risk of being submerged in deeper water. It patiently waited for the right moment, inching closer to the edge where it could find more support on the ground. After several attempts, the baboon finally managed to break free. It re-joined the group, and they swiftly departed from the area. The baboon bore several wounds on its face, suggesting that the crocodile had seized it while it was drinking from the river. Throughout the entire sighting, I stood alone, witnessing the intense encounter and capturing this moment on camera.”

About photographer Nicolas Urlacher

Nicolas Urlacher, a French photographer born in 1970, is currently based in Nairobi, Kenya. Despite starting his career as a teacher, his passion for images led him to explore various artistic fields, including cinema, photography, and painting. In 2013, Nicolas seized the opportunity to work as a Spanish teacher at the French School of Nairobi. His focus shifted from reportage to wildlife photography after capturing images of the Samburu and Maasai people. This transition allowed him to unite his passions for photography and nature, and he has dedicated most of his free time to a personal project: creating a bestiary showcasing Kenya’s wildlife. Nicolas emphasises the importance of field knowledge and species understanding in his approach to wildlife photography. He acts as his own driver and spotter in the savanna, valuing the solitude of the bush and the thrill of independently seeking and capturing the animals he wishes to observe.

Social: @nicolas.urlacher.photographer
Website: www.wildlifeofkenya.com

Judges’ comment:

The last thing lemurs see before their premature end? This photograph perfectly captures the athletic agility of the rarely encountered fossa, even in the arboreal dimension inhabited by lemurs, birds and other prey species. This arresting photo held our attention because of the unusual tree-level perspective.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“I was looking for lemurs near the camp and saw this predator, which had its own plan for them. It didn’t catch a lemur this evening, but I captured its furious intent. The fossa is the largest mammal predator in Madagascar and an endangered species. This animal was photographed in Kirindy Mitea National Park. About 4% of Kirindy Mitea National Park and the nearby Menabe Antimena Protected Area disappear yearly. According to scientific projections, the entire protected area will have vanished by 2050.”

About photographer Sergey Savvi

Sergey is an accomplished wildlife photographer recognised for his captivating images capturing the beauty of nature. With numerous awards and accolades, including participation in renowned exhibitions and festivals such as Golden Turtle, National Geographic, Sienna Awards, and more, Sergey’s work has significantly impacted wildlife photography. He conveys the natural world’s remarkable moments and diverse wonders through his artistry, inspiring others and promoting conservation awareness.

Social: @wildphotosapiens

Judges’ comment:

GoPros are often used for up-close-and-personal photographs – because the robust camera can be left in position while the operator retires to a suitable distance. This unusual capture of a perilously-close elephant’s foot with the rest of the herd following on grabs the eye and intrigues.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“Capturing elephants from unique angles on the ground has always intrigued me, especially when photographing their herds. I aimed to add my perspective to the collection of low-angle shots showcasing these magnificent creatures and their strong character. To achieve this, I opted for a discreet tool like the GoPro, allowing me to stay close without disturbing the elephants. The results of this experiment exceeded my expectations, leaving me in awe. The image revealed remarkable details, such as the massive foot—an often-overlooked feature symbolising their strength and resilience. It also showcased the elephants following their matriarch, set against a harsh environment of drought-stricken soil and the vast expanse of the sky. These elements combined to create a moment of intimate proximity that is otherwise hard to experience. Of course, GoPro loved sharing these!”

About photographer Vijayram Harinathan

Vijayram Harinathan, a wildlife photographer hailing from Chennai, India, has been dedicated to documenting the wildlife of East Africa since 2016. His expeditions have spanned various parks in Kenya, with Samburu, Maasai Mara, Amboseli, and Tsavo being his personal favourites. With a longstanding fascination for birds, he embarked on a photography journey in 2010, which has evolved into a profound passion for capturing unique perspectives, characters, and behaviours in the wild. Notable for winning the NaturesBest Mkapa 2022 category, he utilises his images to convey conservation messages and inspire others to explore the wonders of nature. Beyond photography, Vijayram also takes pleasure in reproducing his works as fine art/giclée prints in his own home.

Social: @vijayramh

Judges’ comment:

How often do you see a flying hyena? This unusual ground-level perspective of the often-seen melee at a carcass grabs the attention and makes one wonder if they (the hyenas) ever manage to catch a vulture and what they would do with it if they did.

Photographer and photo details – read more

“A group of lions had been feasting on this giraffe carcass for several days. Once they left, the waiting hyenas and vultures eagerly seized their chance. Approximately 30 hyenas and over 100 vultures descended upon the scene, creating an incredibly interactive sighting. The hyenas were constantly on edge, fearing the return of the lions, and would temporarily retreat from the carcass, allowing the vultures to take over. However, the hyenas would quickly return, chasing off the vultures in a playful dance of dominance. Guided by my father’s expertise, we alternated positions under the Land Rover to capture low-angle shots. As luck would have it, I found myself in the right place at the right time, capturing a captivating image of a hyena leaping in the air in an attempt to catch a vulture. The entire experience unfolded in approximately two hours, etching an unforgettable memory in my mind.”

About photographer Wayne Donaldson

Wayne was born in Zimbabwe but spent most of his childhood in the renowned reserves of the Sabi Sands and the Timbavati in the Greater Kruger. His father, the legendary ranger Pat Donaldson, has dedicated his life to wildlife conservation, allowing Wayne and his brothers the unique opportunity to grow up in the African wilderness. 1996 Wayne became a qualified tour guide and co-founded a business with his wife Catherine in 1998. With a specialisation in wine guiding and holding a FGASA level 2 Nature Guide certification, Wayne has honed his skills as a keen photographer. Currently, Wayne focuses on organising and leading privately guided safaris and tours in Southern Africa. When he’s not guiding others, he can be found capturing precious moments of his children on the beach or indulging his passion for fishing.

Social: @wildtrackersafaris

Spot the difference – do leopards inherit their patterns from their mothers?

leopards rosettes — Research shows that leopards inherit their patterns of rosettes and whisker spots from their mothers

Leopards may not be able to change their spots, but they do inherit them – to an extent. This is according to new research published in Mammalian Biology, which details the findings of scientists who set out to investigate whether images of leopards could be used to draw conclusions about relatedness.

One of the significant concerns with any decline in species population is the accompanying loss of genetic diversity, thus increasing levels of inbreeding and relatedness. This effect is exacerbated as the remaining populations are fragmented and isolated due to habitat loss. Loss of genetic diversity, in turn, makes animals vulnerable to inbreeding depression and offers less resilience in the face of stochastic events like drought or disease. Thus, monitoring the genetic health of a population is a priority for conservationists but can be extremely difficult where cryptic species like leopards are concerned.

Every leopard sports a pattern of rosettes and whisker spots as unique to that individual as a set of human fingerprints. Furthermore, motion-triggered cameras have long proved an invaluable tool for leopard researchers, allowing them to visualise leopards even in areas where the animals are all but impossible to observe directly. Thus, researchers wanted to determine whether or not the phenotypic similarity of individuals (the extent to which they share physical traits) could be used as a “proxy” for genetic similarity.

To do this, they used images gathered from the Sabi Sand Game Reserve in South Africa. This reserve was selected because records of leopard sightings date back to the 1970s, with detailed life history records of mothers and their cubs. (Paternity in leopards is impossible to establish without genetic analysis, as females will mate with multiple males and cubs in the same litter may not have been fathered by the same male). As a consequence, photographs of known related individuals could be compared.

The authors focused on flank rosette patterns, using sophisticated software designed for image analysis of individual animals (not unlike facial recognition software) to quantify the similarities between leopards. This meant examining characteristics like the number of rosettes, the total area covered, and the angles and distances between spots. They also investigated whisker spot patterns using a scoring method already established for lion identification.

Researchers were able to establish an important baseline on phenotypic variation within a healthy, free-ranging leopard population

They found that mother-offspring pairs showed some phenotypic similarities in rosette markings and whisker spot patterns for six of the 15 traits measured. This finding aligns with similar research on giraffes and cheetahs and provides an exciting insight into the relationship between leopard genetics and their physical expression in pelage patterns. However, these similarities were not apparent across all samples from the population, and the authors conclude that phenotypic similarities cannot reliably be used to draw conclusions on the relatedness of individuals. As such, it cannot be used for biological monitoring.

Inheritance of physical traits is a complicated process, usually influenced by multiple genes and further complicated by environmental effects. The foundations have been laid for further research, along with an important baseline on phenotypic variation within a healthy, free-ranging leopard population.

Resources

Reference (available through a paywall): Smyth, L. K. et al. (2022) “Like Mother Like Daughter: Quantifying the Relationship between Relatedness and Phenotypic Similarity in Leopard Pelage Patterns,” Mammalian Biology

Read all there is to know about the African leopard.

Read how human activity is resulting in leopard inbreeding.

Find out the seven best places to spot leopards in Africa.

THIS WEEK

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Amboseli’s speared lions + pangolins in need

Some artificial intelligence (AI) wisdom for you. I was discussing the state of wild rhinos in Africa with ChatbotGPT, which offered that “Botswana is also home to a significant population of endangered black and white rhinos, which can be found in certain protected areas.“ It also recommended Hwange NP in Zimbabwe as a good place to find rhinos. Not so much, on both counts.

Then, a HUGE thank you to those who responded to our appeal last week to save poached pangolins going through rehab before release back to the wild. You know who you are. Meanwhile, poaching victims continue to arrive. The pang with broken ribs and tail is recovering slowly and has started to forage under supervision – her journey will be a long one. A new male that was brought in this week is going to be in hospital for quite some time as his tail is full of abscesses. And a large male confiscated from poachers has been released back into the wild.

Finally, I leave you with two (related) slices of inspiration:

a warning from the management team of my home wildlife estate: “Dear residents, please be aware that we have increased leopard activity on the estate. Please keep this in mind when walking with your pets.“;
and a quote from the book Where The Crawdads Sing: “It has always been enough to be part of the natural sequence of things.“

Till next week

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

This week we feature a guided safari plus a lodge option perfectly suited for all you solo travellers out there. Start the conversation with our safari experts and lets start planning your ideal safari.

Sabi Sands big cat safari with Jamie Paterson – 6days/5 nights – from ZAR 69,285 pps
Join our scientific editor & NatGeo Wild guide Jamie Paterson on a limited-offer safari in the Sabi Sands. With a maximum of just 6 guests and exclusive use of Jaci’s Sabi House, this intimate trip is designed to make the most of this big cat paradise. Track down lions or spend hours getting to know an individual leopard as Jamie offers her insights into the wonders of her old stomping ground.

Stay at Mkulumadzi
Tucked away in a riverine forest at the confluence of the Shire and Mkulumadzi Rivers, Mkulumadzi Lodge is set within a private 7,000-ha concession in Malawi’s Big 5 Majete Wildlife Reserve. Expect epic river views & top-notch wildlife sightings. The perfect place for solo travellers, as there is NO single supplement.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Two weeks ago in our newsletter, Simon wrote about the tragic spearing of six lions in Amboseli. They were killed inside the headquarters of Big Life Foundation – an non-governmental organisation dedicated to protecting the remaining wildlife of the Amboseli ecosystem. This week, Big Life CEO Benson Leyian offers his transparent comment on the incident in our first story below.

His account speaks to the devastating circumstances that led to the deaths of the lions but it also tells a tale of success against astonishing odds. Human-wildlife conflict is a veritable gauntlet where the stakes are quite literally life-and-death. It is one of the single greatest threats facing the planet’s remaining wildlife and is only going to get worse as climate change influences weather phenomena.

The grim journey towards balancing the needs of human beings and wildlife is set to be a long and painful one and not every step is going to be forward. What Big Life has managed to achieve in the last 20 years to mitigate this conflict in Amboseli should be lauded. I suggest reading Dr Leyian’s editorial below with a healthy dose of compassion for the trauma experienced by everyone involved.

And on a more cheerful note: are your eyes always drawn to the hills? Do mountains fill your soul with a sense of adventure? Well, Africa boasts some of the most spectacular and unique mountain kingdoms and we have selected some of favourites in our second story for the week. Feast your eyes on their panoramic views and otherworldly scenery.

Next week: brace yourself for the big reveal of our Photographer of the Year 2023 winners!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/about-those-six-speared-lions-comment-from-big-lifes-ceo/
SPEARED LIONS
Six lions were speared to death by local residents in Amboseli. Big Life CEO Dr Benson Leyian explains what occurred, offers his comment on the complexities of human-wildlife conflict in the area and reaffirms that mitigation strategies are having a positive effect

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/africas-must-visit-mountains-kingdoms/
MOUNTAIN KINGDOMS
Our list of Africa’s must-visit mountain kingdoms – discover their mystery, magnitude, and magnificence

SAVE A PANGOLIN

Since the launch of this appeal, another poached pangolin has arrived at Provet, requiring intensive treatment and care. That is a total of five pangolins in under two weeks. Africa’s pangolins and dedicated veterinary staff need your support. Every little bit counts when it comes to raising the funds essential to saving the world’s most trafficked animal.

Note all pangolins are housed at offsite locations for security reasons

Click here to make your donation

WATCH: Wish you were here? (00:36). Click here to watch

About those 6 speared lions – comment from Big Life’s CEO

EDITOR’S COMMENT: On Saturday, the 13^th of May 2023, six lions were speared to death by angry local residents inside the headquarters of Big Life Foundation – a non-governmental organisation dedicated to protecting the wildlife in Kenya’s Greater Amboseli Ecosystem through a community-based collaborative approach. The retaliatory killings came after the lions killed 12 goats and a dog near Mbirikani town the night before.

In response to Africa Geographic’s coverage of the incident in our weekly newsletter, representatives from Big Life Foundation requested us to publish their transparent account of events. In the following editorial, Big Life CEO, Dr Benson Ntoyian Leyian, explains how the lions came to be killed, the challenge of reducing human-wildlife conflict and the complexities of the issues at play.

No one wants to wake up with a lion in their home. I know because it has happened to me.

I have had lions break into my boma (a Swahili word for an enclosure protecting animals and people). I’ve had them kill my livestock. I’ve felt the resultant anger. I’ve participated in a retaliatory lion hunt.

That was long ago. Today I am the CEO of Big Life Foundation (Big Life), a community conservation organisation based in the Greater Amboseli Ecosystem of southern Kenya. Humans and nature are inseparable here, and we implement a range of conservation programs designed to meet the needs of both.

But I still have livestock, lions still kill them, and I still get angry.

On the 13^th of May 2023, we witnessed an appalling expression of this type of anger in the form of a crowd that speared six lions to death on a community ranch between the Amboseli and Chyulu Hills National Parks.

A pride of nine lions had entered a boma overnight and killed 12 goats and a dog. They were in an area of dense human settlement, and after being chased from the boma, the lions retreated to the nearest patch of thick bush they could find, which happened to be a revegetation site within Big Life’s fenced headquarters. Big Life community rangers could move some of them out that night, but six remained inside at daybreak.

The Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) and local community leaders soon arrived to meet with Big Life’s senior staff, and the decision was made to leave the lions in the compound. The intention was to wait until the arrival of a vet to assess the potential for translocation. All was calm, and staff from KWS and the Kenya Police Service were on site in case that changed.

News of lions in town travelled quickly, and a crowd soon began to swell, including the irate owner of the livestock killed the night before. The tension was building with each new arrival until, eventually, the collective control snapped. The crowd of about eighty men, most armed with spears, broke through the fence to go after the lions.

Some of the rangers standing in the way were armed, but any gunfire or use of force would have quickly escalated the violence and likely resulted in human injuries or deaths. The rangers stood down, and despite what followed, we believe this decision was the right one.

By the time the dust had settled, all six lions were dead.

The staff of Big Life are all shaken, and my intention in writing this piece is not to diminish the significance of what happened or to try and explain it away. Those of us working at the interface between humans and wild animals need to be honest and self-critical to progress. Big Life values transparency and welcomes constructive criticism.

In this editorial, I aim to address emerging suggestions that this incident is symptomatic of larger issues and trends and that community conservation efforts in Amboseli are failing. I want to counter this with some context, partly involving the story of one of Africa’s most extraordinary recoveries of a local lion population.

The Greater Amboseli Ecosystem is an area of approximately two million acres (just over 8,000 km²). However, only a fraction of that (around 5%) is protected by National Parks, with Amboseli National Park perhaps being the most famous. There are few fences, and many wild animals, including species such as elephants and lions, spend most of their time on Maasai community-owned lands outside of these formally protected areas.

As a result, conflict between predators and livestock has always been a part of life here. This conflict reached its zenith in the late 1990s and early 2000s, when irate livestock owners, aided by the emergence of poisons like Carbofuran (a carbamate pesticide), drove the Amboseli lion population to near extinction. At least 108 lions were killed between 2001 and April 2006, and while no one knows for sure, the population is believed to have dipped as low as 15-20 individuals in the entire ecosystem.

In response, Big Life and the leaders of the 330,000-acre (1,335km²) Mbirikani Group Ranch came up with the Predator Compensation Fund (PCF) in 2003. The idea of compensation for livestock losses was not new, but the innovative design of this program definitely was.

When a livestock animal is killed by a wild predator, Big Life sends a verification team to the site by motorbike within 24 hours. Evidence is gathered to determine what predator was responsible and what the circumstances were (including whether there was negligence on the part of the herder). The compensation figure payable depends on several such factors, and the livestock owner is issued with a ‘credit note’.

Every two months, these credit notes are redeemed at a PCF payout. That is Big Life’s commitment. However, the community has also made a commitment, which is not to kill predators or face stiff penalties if someone does. If anyone does kill a lion (or any predator), all credit notes for that area are invalidated. Anyone who was owed money doesn’t get it, and any lion killer faces the collective wrath of their community. In addition, the killers must pay a fine of seven cows for each lion killed, a hefty penalty in Maasailand.

With an extensive network of community rangers and undercover informants, almost no predator deaths go unnoticed, and the agreement can be enforced.

Almost overnight, the lion killings stopped. In the one and a half years before the Predator Compensation Fund launched, at least 31 lions were killed on Mbirikani Ranch. By comparison, in the twenty intervening years (prior to this recent incident), only 13 lost their lives to conflict with farmers. That’s a 97% reduction in lion killing. Since 2003, Big Life has compensated the loss of 48,648 livestock to wild predators (the majority were sheep and goats killed by spotted hyenas) across the area covered by PCF (currently 550,000 acres – 2,226 km²). It is an astonishing number, particularly compared to how few predators have been killed in retaliation.

PCF has not been solely responsible for the steep reduction in lion killing: many organisations and interventions have contributed, including Lion Guardians and the Born Free Foundation. However, the ‘available-to-all’ principle of PCF has made it the furthest reaching, and we believe it has been at the core of the behaviour change and increased tolerance of wild predators.

The lions have done the rest. Lion Guardians have identified at least 250 individual lions in the ecosystem today. That’s equivalent to a six-fold increase in lion density. It’s a stunning turnaround, and all the more remarkable that it has been achieved on community-owned land outside of a national park or reserve.

The recovery of the Amboseli lion population is one of the great conservation successes of the modern era, and the sheer number of lions now brings its own set of human-lion co-existence challenges.

And that’s just one piece of good news from Amboseli; the story is similar for other species. In 1978 the elephant population of the ecosystem was approximately 700; today, it is 2,000. Community participation in conservation efforts has been fundamental to these successes, and this participation was recently affirmed when the collective landowners of a million acres (over 4,000 km²) agreed to set aside 31% of their land for conservation areas.

What comes next is always difficult in a situation like this, particularly when attributing blame among a large group of people involved in a chaotic incident. Compensation payments are stopped as per the PCF agreement, but given the severity of this incident, Big Life has stopped funding for all community programs in Mbirikani. Following meetings with the community leaders, it has been agreed that this will remain the case until such time that the main participants in the killings have been identified. In addition to paying the fine that will total 42 cows (seven cows for each of the six lions), all those involved will be disqualified from receiving conservation-related benefits, including scholarships or employment. Whether the culprits will be prosecuted is yet to be decided and is a decision that will be made by the relevant government authorities.

Community conservation efforts are seldom linear. There are steps forward and steps back, and we must learn from both. Co-existence is challenging, but in Amboseli, Big Life is showing that humans and wildlife can share space when conservation programs are designed with the needs of wildlife AND people in mind.

Further context and reading:

The Amboseli-Tsavo-Kilimanjaro ecosystem (or Greater Amboseli ecosystem) in Kenya and Tanzania is one of the most iconic of Africa’s wilderness areas. It encompasses five world-famous national parks: Amboseli, Chyulu Hills, Tsavo East and West, and Mount Kilimanjaro. These parks are unfenced, allowing for habitat connectivity and wildlife movement. However, the Group Ranches between them encompass areas of rural agriculture, homesteads and villages with high potential for human-wildlife conflict.

For more information on the Amboseli Ecosystem, see our article on Amboseli National Park

To learn more about human-elephant conflict in Amboseli, Josh Clay of Big Life Foundation explains the situation in Maasai, Maize & Mammoths

Africa’s must-visit mountain kingdoms

Though not everyone is a born hiker, there is no question that mountains speak to the souls of many of us. From mysterious valleys to towering peaks with panoramic views, there are mountains and massifs in Africa that are simply begging to be explored. We’ve compiled a list of our must-visit mountain kingdoms – selected for everything from their singular scenery to the creatures that call them home.

Amphitheatres, castles and cathedrals:
explore the Drakensberg Mountains of South Africa

The “mountains of dragons” reach the highest elevations in South Africa and stretch along the eastern edge of the country’s Great Escarpment, separating the fringe lowlands from the central plateau. The Tolkienesque landscape, with its vertigo-inducing rock faces and plunging gorges, is a hiker’s paradise, with a network of trails suited to every experience level. It is a land steeped in history and legend, with ancient San rock art depicting scenes of giant serpents and “eland men” and fossilised dinosaur footprints forever etched in rock.

Gorillas and montane forests of the Albertine Rift: Virunga Mountains

There are only two remaining populations of mountain gorillas, and, as the name implies, they survive in the cloud forests at high altitudes. Whether the search begins on the slopes of the Virunga Mountains (in either Virunga National Park, Volcanoes National Park or Mgahinga National Park – spanning Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda and Uganda) or within the forests of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, finding the gorillas requires a hilly ascent. These mountains are also home to many other natural and geographic treasures, including an assortment of mischievous primates and volcanic crater lakes. To find the ideal gorilla-trekking safari for you, click here.

Fire and brimstone:
look into the heart of Mt Nyiragongo, DRC

The Virunga Mountains earn their second spot on this list because two of the eight major volcanoes are still active. Mount Nyiragongo in Virunga National Park, Democratic Republic of Congo, reaches a height of over 3,000 metres, and visitors who brave the climb to the summit are rewarded with a view of the world’s largest lava lake as it churns and bubbles. This sight is most impressive at night, so most camp on the crater’s rim, braving its fury for a glimpse of life below the earth’s surface.

Follow in the footsteps of explorers:
Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda

The journey through the mystical Rwenzori Mountains begins at the terraced layers of the foothills and, for experienced climbers, continues to the snow-capped peaks of Mount Stanley at over 5000 metres. Here, alpine scenery meets tropical Africa, and climbers will move first through hardwood forest, and towering bamboo stands before reaching the alien-like vegetation of the Afro-alpine moors.

Mountains of Africa — Explore the Afro-alpine moors of the Rwenzori Mountains

Climb to the roof of Africa in Ethiopia:
Simien Mountains

In northern Ethiopia, a spectacular massif exists where sharp crags and cliffs plunge into sweeping valleys decorated in a gentle palette of brown, green and amber. The primordial landscape of the Simien Mountains is home to some of the continent’s most unique creatures, including the Ethiopian wolf, the endemic Walia ibex and cheeky “herds” of scampering geladas. To the south, the Bale Mountains are equally enthralling, offering the opportunity to explore the fascinating alpine vegetation existing only 3,000 metres above sea level.

Summit the legends of Tanzania:
Mt Kilimanjaro and Mt Kenya

The majestic, snow-capped mountain of Mount Kilimanjaro needs little introduction, as every year, thousands of amateur and expert hikers set out to summit Africa’s highest peak. As the climb is not particularly technical, Kilimanjaro is considered one of the easiest of the world’s tallest mountains to tackle. Not far from Kilimanjaro lies its “little brother” – the dormant volcano of Mount Meru. Less crowded than the more popular Kilimanjaro, Mount Meru lies in Arusha National Park, and the trail to the summit offer hikers spectacular wildlife encounters en route up the mountain.

Explore the wilds of Kenya:
Mathew’s Range

The lush riverine valleys and forested slopes of the Mathews Range are an island of green surrounded by the red, arid lands of northern Kenya. This wonderfully remote mountain range is one of Kenya’s best-kept safari secrets. Visitors can explore the forest trails and mountain streams with local guides and encounter some of the region’s unique wildlife.

Mountain kingdoms of Africa — The lush slopes of the Mathew’s Range

Admire the beauty of Cape Town:
Cape Fold Mountains

Cape Town is unequivocally one of the most attractive cities in the world, nestled between the rugged Cape Fold Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean. From the iconic Table Mountain to Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head, hiking is a popular pastime for locals and tourists alike. All are crisscrossed by a series of well-established trails which offer the chance to take in the breathtaking vistas and appreciate the unusual flora of the Cape. (And there is always the cableway for those looking for an easy route to the top of Table Mountain.)

Explore Morne Seychellois:
Mahe, Seychelles

The granite island of Mahé – the largest of the Seychelles islands – rises out of the azure Indian Ocean and continues upwards to its highest point atop Morne Seychellois. 20% of the island is covered by the Morne Seychellois National Park, where visitors can explore the mangrove swamps and jungles before climbing to the island’s highest peak to admire the extraordinary view. (Remember to keep an eye out for the elusive Seychelles scops-owl and Seychelles kestrel on the way up!)

Experience ancient Namibian history:
Erongo, Brandberg Massif

In the heart of Erongo (formerly Damaraland), the granitic intrusion of the Brandberg Massif is visible for miles from the flat Namib gravel plains. It takes several days to reach the peak of Namibia’s highest mountain, which can be a hot and challenging hike. However, the effort is amply rewarded by a sense of total isolation, distinctive rock features and countless examples of ancient rock art. En-route, explore the valleys and slopes of the Erongo mountains, and the iconic wildlife found in between.

Meet the oddities of Madagascar:
the Andringitra Massif

The Andringitra Massif is one of Madagascar’s most popular hiking destinations and is considered one of the island’s most biologically diverse regions. Away from the sharp cliffs offering impressive views of the plains below, moist tropical forests on the eastern flanks and dry forests on the west support a wide variety of endemic life, including 13 different lemur species.

Madagascar’s lush Andringitra Massif, situated in Andringitra National Park

Visit a shield volcano on a tropical island:
Piton des Neiges, Réunion

While Réunion is known more as a tropical beach paradise than a hiking destination, it is home to the highest mountain in the Indian Ocean – Piton des Neiges – which reaches over 3,000 metres above sea level. The park’s volcanic landscape is a designated World Heritage Site. The somewhat challenging hike to the summit is usually broken into two days, with many hikers rising early on the second day to watch the sunrise from the peak.

Dare to traverse Piton des Neiges, the highest mountain in the Indian Ocean

* Note: Due to political instability in parts of Ethiopia and DRC, travel advisories may be in place. Chat to our safari experts for guidance – see details below this story.

THIS WEEK

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.

Save the pangolins + our Photographer of the Year finalists

Join me in making a tangible difference in the war to save poached pangolins?

Early winter here in the bushveld means that peak pangolin poaching season has kicked off. The evil ones target the most trafficked animal in the world to feed the insatiable appetite in the Far East for imaginary medicinal remedies and culinary fads amongst the wealthy. Sad, disgusting, infuriating.

Last winter I visited a young female pang undergoing rehab here in Hoedspruit before her planned release back into the wild. This fragile cherub died from complications resulting from her being poached, stuffed in a box and kept without food or water for days before she was confiscated and brought to a local vet for rehab. I shed silent tears when I heard the news…

I hope with every part of me that YOU will join me by donating even a modest portion of your hard-earned money to this cause. Please go here to read more and to make a real difference at ground level in the war to save poached pangolins and return them to the wild. A luta continua!

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Africa Geographic is all about crafting exceptional experiences for ALL varieties of safari enthusiasts. So if you want to inspire your next safari with us, check out some options below.

Akagera walking safari – 8days/7nights – from US$ 3,990 pps
Explore one of Africa’s most remarkable wild spaces in the company of professional wilderness trails guides. This 8-day package will see you walking the 60km north-south length of the Big 5 Akagera National Park in Rwanda. With five nights of rough-camping and two nights in the comfort of lodges, this is a fully immersive experience guaranteed to nourish the soul. Click the link above for a detailed itinerary

Stay at Sentinel Mara Camp – $3380 pps / $4205 per single
Nestled in a forest along the banks of the Mara River, Sentinel Mara Camp is an exclusive, owner-run tented eco-camp. It offers the perfect base to witness the Great Migration or soak in the other wonders of the world-famous Maasai Mara National Reserve. Take advantage of this high season “Stay 5 Pay 4” special, which includes flights! Valid from 01Jun-14Jul & 16Oct-19Dec 2023.
Contact our safari experts at travel@africageographic.com for further details

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

As you may have noticed, generative AI tools and their “creative” content seem to be everywhere at the moment. And while we are probably still some way away from machines taking over Terminator-style, few industries will escape the changes that ever-improving machine learning will effect.

For teamAG, this has particular relevance for our annual photography competition. Sure, there are clues one can look for in AI-generated images, but they are more subtle by the day. This year, and for all future competitions, we will require our winners to submit RAW files before the final announcements are made – for obvious reasons.

And with that out of the way, it is finally time to announce our impressive selection of the Photographer of the Year 2023 finalists! Congratulations to those who made it into the Top 50 – the competition was perhaps the fiercest since its inception. We are entering the home stretch now: the winners will be revealed in the coming weeks, so take a look through the galleries below and see if you can pick them out.

Finally, an answer to a question inspired by our social media community. Did you know that many of the wounds commonly seen on black rhino are caused not by fighting (as is often assumed) but by a tiny parasitic roundworm? You can read all about filariasis below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-finalists-gallery-1/
PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR TOP 50 – GALLERY 1
A round of applause for our amazing finalists in 2023’s Photographer of the Year competition – winners to be announced in the coming weeks!

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-finalists-gallery-2/
PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR TOP 50 – GALLERY 2
A round of applause for our amazing finalists in 2023’s Photographer of the Year competition – winners to be announced in the coming weeks!

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/a-wounded-rhino-or-a-parasitic-worm-filariasis-explained/
WOUNDED RHINOS?
Ever noticed wounds on rhino skin? These lesions have an interesting source. We examine filariasis, caused by parasitic worms

Story 4
https://africageographic.com/campaigns/save-a-pangolin/
SAVE A PANGOLIN
Join Simon in donating to rehab and release poached pangolins

A Namibian adventure – pelicans and all!

A very special message (and a truly entertaining image!) from our clients who recently returned from their Namibian safari:

“It was really good dealing with Africa Geographic, especially when having the perfect attention of Risette, who was able to read and feel our profile and demands as clients perfectly…Everything was so well organized.”

WATCH: Did you know that a pangolin eats up to 70 million ants per year? And that the ground pangolin can climb trees? (00:31). Click here to watch

A wounded rhino or a parasitic worm? Filariasis explained

Every year, park authorities of protected spaces across much of Southern and East Africa deal with reports of injured black rhinos from well-meaning and concerned members of the public. In some cases, the injury is a genuine cause for concern. However, most cases involve something else entirely – a nasty, raw-looking, but generally harmless skin lesion. The culprit? A microscopic filarial worm.

Stephanofilaria dinniki belongs to the Filarioidea, a superfamily of parasitic nematodes (roundworms). These highly specialised parasites are spread by blood-feeding insects such as flies and mosquitoes, and many different species can infect people and domestic and wild animals. Infection by these filarial worms is known as filariasis and, if they invade the skin, causes severe dermatitis (inflammation of the skin) and severe itching. In people, they cause elephantiasis – massive swelling and thickening skin.

The open and weeping sores commonly observed on black rhinos (particularly in summer) were a subject of considerable speculation amongst experts for decades. For a long time, the dominant theory was that it was associated with the seasonal activity of secondary sex skin glands. However, in 1960 South African veterinarians and pathologists were finally able to isolate the cause. They collected several tissue samples from the ulcers and found the characteristic serpentine coils of nematodes in the superficial lymphatic vessels and tissue spaces. The surrounding cells – plasma cells and eosinophils (white blood cells) – were a testament to the host’s attempt to mount an immune response to remove the unwanted lodgers.

The infestations follow typical phases defined by the somewhat complex life cycle of the nematode. Larval nematodes (termed microfilariae) dominate when the wounds are most florid (red and raw). In the more chronic phases, the mature female Stephanofilaria dinniki burrow close to the surface, with uterine tubes filled with larvae. The inflammatory defensive response of the host’s immune system, followed by healing attempts, results in a fragile and highly vascularised granulation (pre-scar tissue) that bleeds very easily. This is why the wounds are often seen bleeding – even the lightest brush against a tree or rubbing post can damage the tissue. Eventually, the lesions become dormant, but often the damage causes scarring and thickening of the epidermis.

Though the life cycle of Stephanofilaria dinniki has not been conclusively researched, other members of the Filarioidea require an intermediate host, which could explain the seasonal pattern of the sores seen on black rhinos. Newly birthed microfilariae are not fully developed and need to mature in a blood-feeding insect before becoming infective and invading the next definitive host. As flies, mosquitoes and adult ticks are more abundant in the wet summer months, it makes sense that the wounds would be at their worst stage when the microfilariae are more likely to be spread. The open abrasions are attractive to ectoparasites and oxpeckers, which can also delay healing.

Fig 2 Photo showing treatment and sampling of an immobilised white rhino affected by filariasis. Photo courtesy Mutinda, M., Otiende, M., Gakuya, F. et al

Though black rhinos are particularly susceptible to invasions of these parasites, white rhinos, giraffes, and several other wild species have also been found with filarial lesions. However, it is still not fully understood why so few cases involve white rhinos, particularly given that the two species are sympatric across much of their range.

Fortunately, concerned observers of these somewhat painful-looking sores can rest assured that these are generally mostly just surface wounds that will clear up on their own each year.

References

Mutinda, M., Otiende, M., Gakuya, F. et al. Putative filariasis outbreak in white and black rhinoceros at Meru National Park in Kenya. Parasites Vectors 5, 206 (2012).

Photographer of the Year 2023 Finalists – Gallery 2

Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is now closed for submissions. Cash prizes of US$10,000 have been set aside for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023. ALL winners (winner, runners up and highly commended) must provide raw files of their winning submissions before our winners are announced.

This is Gallery 2 of the finalists. To see the other Photographer of the Year finalist gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Wait for me! A young lion cub races through the water to join its mother at a feast. Liuwa Plain National Park. © Andrew Macdonald

Bakossi and Queen. Bakossi’s family were killed by bushmeat poachers, and she was taken for the pet trade. Now an orphan at the Limbe Wildlife Centre, she is cared for by an expert team of rehabilitators, including Queen. “This image is part of a photographic project about the trafficking of primates in Central Africa and the rehabilitation of those lucky ones that arrive at rescue centres. My big goal is to bring international awareness and support to those fighting to protect our closest relatives.” Limbe Wildlife Centre, Republic of Cameroon. © Gerard Carbonell

“This is an Afar Salt Caravan crossing the desolate Danakil Depression. These Caravans deliver salt to Marakiele in the Ethiopian Highlands.” Danakil Depression, Ethiopia. © Hesté de Beer

Feasting on fate. A southern ground-hornbill snacks on a young leopard tortoise. Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Jack Swynnerton

Young herders tend to their cattle as the sun rises. Omo Valley, Ethiopia. © Kevin Dooley

The gory details of a Rüppell’s vulture tucking into a fresh wildebeest meal. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Michael Stavrakakis

In the shadow of Mount Kenya lies one of East Africa’s most successful rhino sanctuaries. Solio Conservancy, Kenya. © Preeti John Chacko

Spot the odd one out. A giraffe bull looks on at the chaos of a migration river crossing. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Tomasz Szpila

A wildebeest succumbs to the teeth and claws of its four cheetah pursuers. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Amith Krishna

Feeding frenzy. After some effective teamwork, social spiders (*Stegodyphus sp.*) devour a garden fruit chafer (*Pachnoda sinuata*). National Botanical Gardens, Harare, Zimbabwe. © Anjuli Rebelo

A parent’s work is never done. A white-throated swallow feeding a beak full of dragonflies to its almost fully-grown chick. Pilanesberg National Park, South Africa. © Dustin Van Helsdingen

All that glisters is not gold. A moment of peace for this young male leopard on a misty morning at Transport dam. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Garry Mills

A Natal forest tree frog peeks out from behind a leaf. Durban, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. © Hendrik Louw

A male dugong grazing on the ocean floor. “Once a common sight in the Red Sea, populations have plummeted in recent decades. The seagrasses of Abu Dabbab still provide refuge for a few of these magical creatures of the sea.” Abu Dabbab coast, Marsa Alam, Egypt. © Francis Glassup

The new arrival. Recent research indicates that the social lives of giraffes are more complex than we ever imagined. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Jenny Zhao

The thaumaturgy of water, soda, and sand transforms Lake Magadi into a swirling palette of colour. Every year, hundreds of thousands of greater and lesser flamingos gather to feed and breed in the salty, shallow waters. “Seen from the sky, everything suddenly seems unreal.” Lake Magadi, Kenya. © Alexandre Bès

Photographer of the Year — A dawn desert duel between two bull giraffes. Namib Desert, Namibia. © Mark Nissenbaum

Photographer of the Year 2023 Finalists – Gallery 1

This is Gallery 1 of the finalists. To see the other Photographer of the Year finalist gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

The tragic culmination of severe drought and agricultural extraction as the Ewaso Ng’iro River runs dry. This river is a lifeline for wildlife (like these elephants) and people alike in the arid lands of northern Kenya. Samburu National Reserve, Kenya. © Alexandre Bès

A San Bushman elder inhales deeply on his makeshift pipe, fashioned from an old artillery shell. Xai Xai Village, Botswana. © Alwyn Chong

A critically endangered Perrier’s sifaka, one of the world’s rarest lemurs, clings to a tree – its profoundly disproportionate limbs designed for arboreal life. Anjahankely, Madagascar. © Andrew Macdonald

“Shall we dance? One of Dzanga Baï’s more elegant forest elephants, fresh from its mudbath make-up, takes its turn on this remote stage.” Dzanga Baï, Central African Republic. © Andy Skillen

The beast below. A Nile crocodile surfaces beneath the photographer’s drone. “The turbulent waters around make for a more interesting backdrop than the usually still waters of the Shire River. It stayed for a second or two before retreating into the depths.” Liwonde National Park, Malawi. © Daniel Badger

Stoicism in a sandstorm. A Namaqua chameleon must endure a harsh Namib wind that sent the photographer and crew scurrying for their vehicle. Namib Desert, Namibia. © Dewald Tromp

A yellow-billed kite swooping in to steal the limelight. Nxai Pans National Park, Botswana. © Ernest Porter

From dust thou art…At the height of the dry season, Chitake Springs turns into a dust bowl. The buffalo have no choice but to walk the lion gauntlet to drink each evening. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe © Gail Odendaal

Every year during the sardine run, millions of sardines journey up the South African coast, prompting a feeding frenzy. These bait balls are typically formed by dolphins, but in this case, the photographer reports that the ball was kept together by hundreds of black tip sharks, later joined by Cape gannets, skipjack tuna and kingfish intent on partaking in the feast. Port St. Johns, Eastern Cape, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

In a land of sand and rock, the desert horned viper has made the harsh Sahara Desert its home. This image was taken during a herpetological expedition. Sahara Desert, Morocco. © Gerard Carbonell

When worlds collide. A plan comes together for the photographer, who spent years looking to create this moment using a waterproofed, remote-controlled camera. Using two separate light sources, he was able to capture this small-spotted genet coming to drink at a small waterhole, along with the fish swimming below. Makgokolo Private Game Reserve, Limpopo, South Africa. © Hannes Lochner

Leaps and bounds. “This young Maasai warrior and his friends challenged one another to see who could clear this stream flowing into Lake Natron”. Lake Natron, Tanzania. © Hesté de Beer

You go left, I’ll go right. A pair of male cheetahs work together to tackle a lone topi. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Ivan Glaser

THIS WEEK

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Mining Mana Pools + tragedy in Amboseli + Top 101 Photographer of the Year selection

A pride of lions has been speared to death in Kenya. The context surrounding this tragedy is important – so that we can direct our reactions with purpose and support those working hard to keep free-roaming lions safe:

Nine subadult lions broke into a livestock enclosure near Mbirikani town on the night of May 12th, killing 12 goats and a dog
Three of the lions were chased away and the remaining six were killed by angry villagers
Mbirikani is a settlement within Mbirikani Ranch – a wildlife conservancy in the greater Amboseli ecosystem – about 30km from Amboseli National Park
The area is unfenced and human-lion conflict is an ongoing issue, although 97% reduced since Big Life (who are based at Mbirikani) started a livestock compensation program in 2003
In a separate incident a few days prior to this, a 19-year-old lion known as ‘Loonkito’ was speared to death after he left the unfenced national park in search of food
In 2019, a lion mauled a man to death just outside the park, and in 2016 another lion was shot dead after attacking and injuring a local
The Governor of Kajiado County had this to say: “I would like to condemn this as a serious tragedy to us people who are pro-conservation, and as a community that has started to enjoy the benefits that go with conservation and wildlife. We are yet to fully establish what went wrong, but it is important for us to say that as a government, we support conservation and we condemn the act. I am sure that as a resilient community, a resilient people, we will overcome this.”
An investigation is ongoing

Updates from Biglife
More about the Amboseli ecosystem

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Is your creative side neglected? Check out our professional-led art safari and let Africa’s wildlife inspire you. Or take advantage of our incredible special offer and explore some of Kenya’s most iconic wild spaces. Contact our safari consultants soon so you don’t miss out!

Art Safari with Alison Nicholls – Timbavati – 7 days/6 nights – from ZAR60,150 pps
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Fantastic special offer: Kenyan safari
Book your four-night stay at Mara Expedition Camp and only pay for three. And it gets better: why not add four nights at ol Donyo Lodge between Tsavo and Amboseli National Park? The same deal applies, and you have an eight-night safari for the price of six! Valid until the 14th of June.
Contact us for enquiries.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that the oldest known cheetah ancestor came from a fossil found in the depths of the Silberberg Grotto in South Africa’s Sterkfontein caves? Scientists believe the animal lived over three million years ago and were larger but less speedy than our modern-day zippy cats.

I mention this because several cheetahs raced their way into our Top 101 selection for 2023’s Photographer of the Year competition. And what a collection it has turned out to be! The Big 5 all grace us with their presence, along with an abundance of iconic African wildlife and an eclectic collection of the weird and wonderful. Did your favourites make it in? You’ll have to peruse all FOUR galleries below to find out!

And now for a call to arms, so to speak. The Zimbabwean government recently announced that a local mining company had applied for an exploration licence for gas and oil. Their chosen land? The wilderness paradise of the Mana Pools ecosystem and surrounds. Though progress in the form of tearing up land and exploiting its resources seems to be an inevitable human pastime, are we seriously going to let it happen in one of Africa’s most precious wild spaces? Read the story below and then add your name to the petition.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-1/
PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR TOP 101 – GALLERY 1
The first of four galleries featuring some of our 101 favourite images from this year’s Photographer of the Year competition

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-2/
PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR TOP 101 – GALLERY 2
The second of four galleries featuring some of our 101 favourite images from this year’s Photographer of the Year competition

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-3/
PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR TOP 101 – GALLERY 3
The third of four galleries featuring some of our 101 favourite images from this year’s Photographer of the Year competition

Story 4
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-top-101-gallery-4/
PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR TOP 101 – GALLERY 4
The fourth and final gallery featuring some of our 101 favourite images from this year’s Photographer of the Year competition

Story 5
https://africageographic.com/stories/mining-in-mana-pools/
MINING IN MANA POOLS
Mining in Mana Pools? Zimbabwean government announces application by Shalom Mining to explore one of Africa’s greatest wilderness areas

Sharing the love

Our 2023 Photographer of the Year entrants share their thoughts on having their images selected for our weekly galleries.

“Thx a lot for featuring a piece of my work in one of the weekly galleries! I’m honored that you reckon it worthy of showing! There are amazing submissions, I’m proud and happy about all those photographers sharing the passion for our beautiful world and in this case, particularly Africa!” – David Heucke

“Thank you so much…”Groom with a View”!..I wish I had your way with words!” – Turgay Uzer

“Thank you so much. Love this contest every year.” – Dylan Lee

“Thank you so much for the wonderful news and inclusion of one of my favourite photos in your weekly gallery. The quality of entrants this year seems to be a step above the already high standards of the past, so I really feel like I am part of a very select group and am truly honoured.” – Dirk Uys

Check out all 2023 weekly selections and the Top 101 and stay tuned! Photographer of the Year 2023 winners announced end May 2023

WATCH: Is this the best leopard & cub video you have ever seen? (03:32). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2023 Top 101 – Gallery 4

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.

This is Gallery 4 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 2, Gallery 3.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

A resounding display of puppy love from expectant African wild dog (painted wolf) pups hoping for some regurgitated breakfast. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Andy Skillen

The many elegant textures of elephants. Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa. © Ernest Porter

A local fisherman on the serene waters of the Okavango Delta, surrounded by lily pads and patiently waiting for the next catch from his mokoro. Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Jack Swynnerton

Elephant trunks are believed to be one of the most sensitive body parts in the animal kingdom. They are also very heavy! Sabi Sands Game Reserve, Mpumalanga, South Africa. © Karen Blackwood

The dry season colour palette. MalaMala Game Reserve, Mpumalanga, South Africa. © Michael Raddall

Soaked after an afternoon shower. “The rains in Mara opens doors for some very unique and magical frames.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Remya Warrier

A young male mountain gorilla tentatively reaches out to poke his week-old baby brother in a sibling tale as old as time. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda. © Tomasz Szpila

Take the road less travelled. An aerial drone photograph of a safari vehicle in the Namib dunes. NamibRand Nature Reserve, Namibia. © Andrew Morgan

“When we visit the Masai Mara, I make a point out of getting out early for sunrise near the Mara River. It’s a magical spot, especially if you can find a good foreground for sunrise.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Bill Klipp

In a land of sand and rock, the desert horned viper has made the harsh Saharan Desert its home. This image was taken during a herpetological expedition. Saharan Desert, Morocco. © Gerard Carbonell

Brawl at the buffet. Tensions are high as scraps run low at Piper’s Pan, where a wake of white-backed vultures and lappet-faced vultures had hoped to grab a hearty meal. Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana. © Jannes Drotsky

Photographer of the Year 2023 Top 101 – Gallery 3

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.

This is Gallery 3 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 2, Gallery 4.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Is all of me covered? A concerned western lowland gorilla attempts to shelter from the oncoming downpour. Ndzehe Forest, Democratic Republic of the Congo. © Andy Skillen

A herd of oryx climb the dunes in a desert of vast eternity. “It seemed impossible for any life to exist in this harsh landscape, but they were set on their course to a destination known only to them.” Namib Desert, Namibia. © Dewald Tromp

A southern ground-hornbill revels in a dust bath. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

A herd of wildebeest gallop down precipitous banks and surge through the Mara River. Mara River, boundary of Tanzania and Kenya. © Jenny Zhao

White rhinos make the dust fly. South Africa. © Kevin Dooley

“Sometimes I sits and thinks. And sometimes I just sits.” Mark, the 40-year-old leader of the Nyakagezi gorilla family, enjoys some alone time in the dense bamboo forest. Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, Uganda. © Michael Stavrakakis

Could I interest you in a napkin? Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Tomasz Szpila

Out of the darkness. A portrait of one of Laikipia’s melanistic leopards. Laikipia Wilderness Camp, Laikipia County, Kenya. © Ateeb Hussain

Nothing looks more objectively miserable than a wet cat. The size of said cats is irrelevant. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Laura Dyer

Photographer of the Year 2023 Top 101 – Gallery 2

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.

This is Gallery 2 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 3, Gallery 4.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

The victor and the vanquished. Hostilities reach a head in an extended battle between two rival males. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Andy Skillen

Houston, we have lift-off! A white-backed duck gathers momentum on its Chobe River runway. Chobe National Park, Botswana. © Christo Giliomee

A white rhino cow gently blocks her curious calf from investigating the photographer. Pilanesberg National Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

A tender moment between a mother and her cub. Thornybush Game Reserve, Mpumalanga, South Africa. © Michael Raddall

Just keep swimming. Zebra brave the currents of the murderous Mara River. Mara Triangle, Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Nicolas Urlacher

Fubu, the western lowland gorilla. Lésio-Louna Wildlife Reserve, Congo-Brazzaville. © Tomasz Szpila

In Ancient Rome, the flamingo was among the most prized gourmet dishes. This epicurean African rock python, with his greater flamingo meal, appears to have been a fan of Apicius. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Alison Mees

A young boy in a cattle camp of the Mundari tribe. South Sudan. © Anne-Françoise Tasnier

Two disgruntled hippo pods forced to share a small pool, prompting explosive displays of irritation. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Darren Donovan

Come into my parlour…A common rain spider folds itself up beneath a branch, seeking refuge from the rain. Jan Marais Nature Reserve, South Africa. © Grant Evans

Photographer of the Year 2023 Top 101 – Gallery 1

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.

This is Gallery 1 of the Top 101. To see the other Photographer of the Year Top 101 galleries, follow the links: Gallery 2, Gallery 3, Gallery 4.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Capture from a mokoro. An elephant feeds gracefully in the swamps of the Okavango. Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Jack Swynnerton

Blue-eyed beauty. A southern white rhino with fully functional, blue eyes instead of the usual brown – a rare genetic abnormality. “What an incredible, unique gift from nature!” South Africa. © Karen Blackwood

The mating game: a tense moment between two amorous leopards. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley

Shhh, my mom is sleeping. Chamobonda National Park, Zimbabwe. © Liz Lane

“At the top of my list was to capture the incredible and similar hands we share with gorillas. As luck would have it, some of the very first images I captured were of this mother and her infant tenderly holding hands. It remains one of my favourite images but also my favourite moment in the field.” Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda. © Michael Stavrakakis

To get to the other side…Three cheetahs make the treacherous crossing to the opposite bank of the Talek River. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Preeti John Chacko

A misunderstood Kenyan sand boa (*Eryx colubrinus*) waits for prey in the red sands of Tsavo. They are sometimes called the “snake of seven steps’, based on the traditional but erroneous belief that if it bites you, you will take seven steps and die. It is non-venomous. Tsavo National Park, Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

An unusually large ostrich “nursery” under the care of one adult male. Young ostriches grow at almost 30 cm every month, so they are almost the height of adults by the time they reach six months old. Damaraland, Namibia. © Tomasz Szpila

Battle ensues at a giraffe kill. Timbavati Private Nature Reserve, South Africa. © Wayne Donaldson

Mining in Mana Pools

Shalom Mining has applied for permission to explore Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools for oil and gas, according to a recent announcement by the Zimbabwean government. The region is a designated World Heritage Site, and the application has been met with local and international condemnation.

Mining in Mana Pools — Mining operations threaten the vast and fragile ecosystem of Mana Pools and surrounding wilderness areas. Photo: Matt Parvin

In a notice in the Zimbabwe Gazette dated the 28th of April, 2023, the Ministry of Mines and Mining Development revealed that Shalom Mining Corporation Private Limited (Shalom Mining) had applied to explore mining potential in the Zambezi. The exploration license – if granted – will allow the Zimbabwean company access to 130,000 hectares of wilderness habitat.

The proposed mining area falls mainly in Hurungwe Safari Area but will also include a section of Mana Pools National Park

Available information suggests that the exploration area falls mainly under Hurungwe Safari Area but will also encroach into a small section of Mana Pools National Park. The national park is part of an enormous, connected ecosystem that extends over some 1.7 million hectares and includes multiple safari areas and Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park. Farai Maguwu, the executive director of Zimbabwe’s Centre for Natural Resource Governance, has warned that mining in this region could result in an “ecological disaster”.

“It is very offensive to anyone who cares about Zimbabwe, nature, and conservation…it’s a piece of land that is of global significance…it has been recognised globally, and the government of Zimbabwe has committed itself, which means it produces reports every year on the status of conservation of that heritage site,” he said.

As per Zimbabwean law, formal objections to the application must be submitted by the 19^th of May, 2023.

This news comes in the wake of the decision of the Zambian Environmental Management Agency to approve the controversial Kangaluwi open-cast copper mine in neighbouring Lower Zambezi National Park.

Take action:

Legal stakeholders are encouraged to submit their formal objection (outlining their involvement in the area and the likely economic impact) in writing to the Mining Affairs Board addressed as follows:

To: The Secretary
Mining Affairs Board
Private Bag 7709
Causeway.

If you want to support the cause: sign the petition “Objection Against Shalom Mining Licence Within Mana Pools” and use the #SaveManaPools for social media updates.

THIS WEEK

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Final weekly selection + epic travel ideas + Uganda’s secret valley

Lizz and I were walking the dogs a few days ago when a group of rutting impala bachelors came skittering through the receding autumnal woodland. Some with clacking horns locked as they jostled on the go, others snorting and growling loudly with exuberant energy. We stood quietly, our dogs entranced, as two grappling gladiators hurtled towards us with locked horns, seemingly blind to the world – total dedication to the cause of natural selection. They shot past a few meters away and melted into the bushveld. Sharing silent smiles, we resumed our evening stroll.

Just a gentle reminder that your place in this limited-availability rhino conservation safari is waiting for you. This is a genuine conservation program – not a faux clipboard pantomime. Opportunities like this with responsible operators do not come around often; my advice if you would like to participate in a veterinary rhino program is to contact our safari experts via the prompts in the above link. Safari njema 🙂

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Have you been dreaming about looking deep into the eyes of a gorilla in the forests of Rwanda or wanting to play your part in rhino conservation in South Africa? Chat with our expert consultants for all your safari desires.

Gorilla trekking safari in Rwanda – 3days – From US$ 1,970pps
Rwanda’s world-famous Volcanoes National Park is renowned as one of the leading gorilla trekking destinations in Africa. This safari presents the perfect opportunity for intimate encounters with endangered mountain gorillas and enthralling sightings of endemic golden monkeys, flashy Rwenzori turacos and prehistoric-looking chameleons. Check out the link above for a detailed day-by-day itinerary of this life-changing adventure.

SADC rates available – please inquire from travel@africageographic.com

Rhino conservation safari – malaria-free- 4days – from R58,075 pps
Book 3 nights/4 days at Marataba Explorers or Founders Camp & take part in a rhino immobilization experience. Join the experts in Marataba Contractual National Park in the heart of the magnificent Waterberg as they go about darting, notching and collecting DNA from their precious charges. Spaces are limited for this exceptional seasonal experience, so don’t delay: browse the detailed itinerary above to find the dates that work for you.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

True to form, our photographers delivered en masse for our final weekly selection in the AG Photographer of the Year 2023 competition. The last rush of entries was so spectacular that we are able to treat you to a trilogy of galleries this week, each one telling a different, unique story of Africa.

It is a bittersweet moment for teamAG when entries close for the year, and I think I can speak for all of us when I say that looking through the snapshots is the highlight of our week. I would like to take a moment to thank everyone who shared their photographic artistry with us and – by extension – the rest of the world. Every one of you is appreciated.

And now, of course, comes the painstaking process of selecting our finalists, and I can assure you that this is no easy task. Keep an eye out in the following weeks as we whittle our way down to this year’s top images.

Finally, with its lush forests, gently rolling savannas and vibrant papyrus swamps, all beneath the looming shadow of the Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda’s Semliki Valley safari experience is unlike any other in Africa. Set in the heart of the Rift Valley, at the geological crossroad of Central and East Africa, it is the ideal destination for the consummate nature lover. You can read all about it in our final story of the week below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-13-gallery-1/
PHENOMENAL PHOTOGRAPHS 1
The first of three galleries featuring our final weekly selection – a smorgasbord of goosebump-eliciting photographs

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-13-gallery-2/
PHENOMENAL PHOTOGRAPHS 2
Revel in our second of three spectacular galleries and marvel at the skill (and occasional good fortune) of our entrants

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-13-gallery-3/
PHENOMENAL PHOTOGRAPHS 3
An extra treat for you in the form of our third and final weekly selection gallery, where every image is as mind-blowing as the last

Story 4
https://africageographic.com/stories/semliki-valley/
SEMLIKI VALLEY
Semliki Valley is a land of extraordinary wild beauty, dense forest, vast savannah and magical hot springs – and Uganda’s best kept secret

In our forum this week

Kate Church from African Wildlife Vets (AWV) discusses snaring – one of the greatest threats to wildlife across Africa. She commends those working hard to remove snares found in protected spaces and praises the conservation teams that dedicate their time to saving and treating snare victims.

Join the discussion and support these dedicated teams by donating to the AWV emergency fund.

WATCH: Twenty years of drought – and then the floodwaters returned to Botswana’s Boteti River (49:32). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 13 – Gallery 3

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.

Here is Gallery 3 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 2.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

The lifeblood of arid lands – the Kunene River marks the division between Namibia and Angola. Marienfluss Conservancy, Namibia. © Fabian Michelangeli

Double trouble. A rare and privileged sighting of serval siblings. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Paolo Torchio

Niete and Cyrille. Niete was taken by poachers for the pet trade after they killed the rest of her family. She is now an orphan at the Limbe Wildlife Centre, where caregivers must impart vital life skills. Here, Cyrille is teaching Niete all about grooming, which will be central to her future interactions with other chimpanzees. Limbe Wildlife Centre, Republic of Cameroon. © Gerard Carbonell

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 13 – Gallery 2

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.

Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links: Gallery 1, Gallery 3.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Snatched from the jaws of defeat. An exhausted young yellow baboon fights for his life as he is repeatedly pulled under the water by a crocodile. Amazingly, the photographer reports that he later escaped – undoubtedly painful, but perhaps somewhat the wiser for his misadventure. Tsavo River, Tsavo West National Park, Kenya. © Nicolas Urlacher

“Local Lozi women fishing with baskets in Liuwa Plain.” Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia. © Andrew Macdonald

Maybe if I stay really, really still, they’ll think I’m a piece of lichen. A baby Johnston’s three-horned chameleon clings to the end of a branch. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda. © Beate Riedmann

Common brown water snakes are expert divers, using their aquatic skills to prey on smaller fish species like these Clanwilliam redfin fish. However, the photographer observed that the fish were relaxed despite their relative proximity and appeared to have a good understanding of the snake’s striking distance. Cederberg Mountains, Western Cape, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

In a fit of bravado, this male lion decided to stand his ground when confronted by a small herd of elephants but was forced to turn tail at the last moment. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Ivan Glaser

Even the fiercest of predators need a mother’s support now and again. Nairobi National Park, Kenya. © Nicolas Urlacher

Frozen in mid-air: the photographer captures the moment a cheetah attempts to catch a warthog. “The hunt was…a flop!” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Paolo Torchio

The aptly-named and profoundly adorable eastern rock elephant shrew (eastern rock sengi). Kimberley, South Africa. © Sergey Savvi

A juvenile pale chanting goshawk lives up to its name. Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, Botswana. © David Heucke

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 13 – Gallery 1

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.

Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other galleries, follow the links: Gallery 2, Gallery 3.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

No king is afraid of getting his feet a little wet. Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia. © Andrew Macdonald

The peaceful approach of a white rhino bull. Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa. © Darren Donovan

A group of Konso elders playing gabata (a type of mancala played in Ethiopia). Konso, Ethiopia. © Ephrem Gebru

The elephants of Linyanti are perfectly content to spend hours in the water, rinsing the roots of the water lilies and munching them like spaghetti. Linyanti, Chobe National Park, Botswana. © Fabian Michelangeli

The photographer was exploring the Cederberg Mountains when he discovered these endemic Clanwilliam redfin fish in a rock pool, grabbing food in the turbulent waters below a waterfall. Cederberg Mountains, Western Cape, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

Beggars at the wake. A spotted hyena and a mob of white-backed vultures in a fight for the scraps of an eland kill. Zambezi National Park, Zimbabwe. © Hanna Wigart

The leopard crawl. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Ivan Glaser

“The Thinker.” Nairobi National Park, Kenya. © Josh Cooper

I’m just going to rest my eyes for five minutes…. Kibale National Park, Uganda. © Kunal D. Shah

A dawn desert duel between two bull giraffes. Namib Desert, Namibia. © Mark Nissenbaum

The photographer staked out this tree for hours before a black mamba eventually emerged from one of its holes. Thornybush Game Reserve, South Africa. © Michael Raddall

Semliki Valley

In the heart of Africa’s Albertine Rift lies a geological crossroad, where primordial forces have given rise to a land of extraordinary wild beauty. In the folds of Uganda’s Semliki Valley, beneath the shadows of ancient mountain peaks, time seems to stand still. Here, the great forests of Central Africa gradually give way to the rolling savannahs of the East, creating a zone of transition that epitomises the best of both worlds.

Semliki Valley

The Semliki Valley is one of Uganda’s more remote wilderness regions, unspoilt by mass tourism and considered by many (especially avid birders) to be one of the country’s best-kept safari secrets. It runs the short length of the Semliki River from where it enters the country until it empties into Lake Albert and encompasses two distinctive protected areas: the Semuliki National Park and the Semliki Wilderness Reserve. The contrasting characters of the two wilderness regions – from ancient and eldritch forest to gentle savannah – ensure an astonishing array of biodiversity and centre the Semliki Valley experience around a profound appreciation of nature’s marvels.

Semuliki National Park lies on the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), contiguous with the northernmost corner of Virunga National Park. Semuliki protects the easternmost extension of the mighty Ituri Forest, which stretches more than 500km to the Congo River and represents the only true tract of lowland tropical forest in East Africa. The landscape is dominated by Ugandan ironwood trees (Cynometra alexandri), interspersed with lush palm fronds and verdant ferns. Juxtaposed against this backdrop of green, a kaleidoscope of over 350 butterfly species of every size and hue flutter between shafts of light, and the forest is alive with a cacophony of birdsong. The dark woods are broken by startling open patches of papyrus swamps, the dramatic scenery of the Sempaya Hot Springs, and views of the glacier-tipped Rwenzori Mountains.

In contrast to the perpetual twilight of the national park, Semliki Wilderness Reserve (formerly Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve) is a breath of light and air. But for small patches of forest, most of the reserve is a mosaic of dry savannah grassland, riparian woodland and Borassus palms. Herds of elephant, buffalo and antelopes gather on the plains beneath the looming peaks of the Blue Mountains in neighbouring DRC to the west and the dramatic slopes of the Rift Valley escarpment to the east.

While names like Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks command the safari scene in Uganda, the Semliki Valley is perfectly positioned between the two – offering the unique opportunity to immerse oneself in a land before time. The region’s setting at the intersection between key habitats guarantees an electrifying combination of weird, wonderful, endemic, and unusual creatures.

All aflutter in Semliki

While the national park and the wildlife reserve are home to some of the more iconic mammal species on the safari checklist, the Semliki Valley is best known for its remarkable birding. Uganda is one of Africa’s prime birding destinations, and many of the country’s most exciting species can be found in the west, where forest meets savannah. Over 435 bird species have been recorded in Semuliki National Park alone, including many Guinea-Congo forest biome species not found elsewhere in East Africa. Congo serpent eagles haunt the dark understories of the forest, while the lyre-tailed honeyguide’s crescendo taunts scores of frustrated birders every year.

An assortment of hornbills, including the red-billed dwarf, black dwarf and black-casqued hornbills, are generally considerably more conspicuous, and the nkulengu rail is an invariable highlight, as are the shoebills of nearby Lake Albert. Red-throated bee-eater, spot-breasted ibis, Oberländer’s ground thrush, piapiac, blue swallow, snowy-headed and blue-shouldered robin-chats, red-rumped tinkerbird, yellow-throated and western nicators, Bate’s nightjar – the “specials” bird list of the Semliki Valley is enough to have aviphiles itching to reach for their binoculars.

Shoebill — A shoebill photographed in Semliki Valley

Down to earth

If visitors can tear their gaze away from the feathered extravaganza, mammal life in Semliki is fascinating. Forest rarities like the fire-footed rope, red-legged sun and Beecroft’s flying squirrels share their arboreal space with grey-cheeked mangabeys, mantled guerezas, red colobuses, red-tailed monkeys and De Brazza’s monkeys. The elusive water chevrotain (also known as the fanged deer) lurks in the undergrowth along with a host of duiker species, including the bay duiker.

red-tailed monkey — Red-tailed monkeys are one of the many primates that roam the forests of Semliki

Encounters with the larger residents like buffalo and elephant (including both forest and savannah varieties) are intermittent, and lions are more commonly heard than seen. However, large herds of Ugandan kob are ubiquitous, especially in Semliki Wildlife Reserve. Both protected areas are home to populations of chimpanzees, and while they are less habituated than those of nearby Kibale Forest, chimpanzee walks are among the activities on offer. The reserve’s chimpanzees are of particular interest to the scientists of Indiana University’s Semliki Chimpanzee Project, as they survive in an unusually arid habitat.

Bubbling with excitement

The Sempaya hot springs are situated not far inside Semuliki National Park and are accessed via a short boardwalk that runs through the forests. As the park’s most famous attraction, the two springs are a testament to the region’s rich geological history and hold a deep cultural significance to the local Bamaga people.

Bitende: the “male spring” at Sempaya Hot Springs

The “male spring” – called Bitende – is a calm pool some 12 metres in diameter, while the “female spring” – called Nyasimbi – spews boiling water and steam into the air (perhaps the less said about that difference, the better). The Bamaga people believe their female ancestors live beneath Nyasimbi and their male ancestors beneath Bitende. Annual rituals are carried out at the springs to appease these spirits.

The warm waters are also used for cooking, a tradition in which visitors can participate. Alongside the springs, mineral-encrusted swamps attract forest-dwelling mammals searching for au natural dietary supplements.

Explore Semliki & stay

Want to go on a safari to Semliki Valley? To find lodges, search for our ready-made packages, or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.

With its relatively low densities of large mammal species, Semliki Valley is not the best choice for first-time safari-goers. However, for birders and those with a genuine capacity to appreciate Africa’s more unusual offerings, there are few destinations as delightfully unspoilt and jaw-droppingly scenic. Moreover, a few days spent in Semliki can easily be combined with gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest or Mgahinga National Parks, chimpanzee trekking in Kibale National Park and a Big 5 safari in Queen Elizabeth or Murchison Falls National Parks.

Much of the exploration of the Semliki Valley is done on foot, with both the national park and reserve offering guided trails of varying lengths and difficulty levels. As such, a sturdy pair of comfortable walking boots is essential! These walks can be tailored to particular interests (a birding or primate focus, for example) or simply to take in the majesty of the surroundings. Game drives and night drives are conducted in Semliki Wildlife Reserve, along with boat cruises on the crystalline waters of Lake Albert.

Visitors can explore Lake Albert by boat

Budget bandas (basic huts) are operated by the Uganda Wildlife Authority in both Semuliki National Park and Semliki Wildlife Reserve. The latter also has one privately run luxury lodge. The region experiences rain throughout the year, but during the two peak rainy seasons from March to May and September to December, many parts of the park are flooded and become entirely inaccessible.

Whether walking the paths of the dense forests or admiring the savannah scenery, exploring the remote Semliki Valley is an experience unlike any other in Africa. It encompasses the wildest aspects of Central Africa and the convenience and beauty of East Africa, making it the perfect destination for novice and experienced travellers alike.

THIS WEEK

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Rhino conservation safari, jaw-dropping photographs + the world’s largest antelope

Today I bust a myth and recommend a life-changing safari experience.

One claim I often hear from those who feel we should cull elephants is that they (elephants) destroyed the Chobe riverine forests. This straight-line logic is misleading. Chobe’s riverine forests were decimated by historic logging of hardwoods – especially Rhodesian teak Baikiaea plurijuga – for mine timber, railway sleepers, paper and furniture. If you bought converted railway sleeper furniture, you have played a role, albeit unknowingly. Commercial logging began prior to World War I and continued to 1994. The riverine areas were most hammered because the river was used to transport the wood. The larger lumber mills along the river closed down in the mid-1950’s because most of the large riverine trees had been removed, but smaller-scale harvesting continued. What remains after that devastating period of waste and mismanagement is an irreparably damaged ecosystem that is susceptible to fire and elephants, with recruitment almost impossible due to impalas and other herbivores feasting on saplings. So there you have it. As the linked report states, elephants are now PART of the problem, but they are not the cause, and culling them is unlikely to cure the damaged ecosystem.

My team has unearthed a limited-availability opportunity to be involved in a rhino conservation program in South Africa’s Marataba – a stunning chunk of bushveld in the malaria-free Waterberg. Be warned that being part of a veterinary procedure on Africa’s giant unicorns is an intensely emotional experience. I have shed a few silent tears each time, and cannot recommend the experience enough. This is a genuine conservation program – not some faux clipboard pantomime. Take your family or take your colleagues – just get there. More details here.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Have you always wanted to experience the culturally diverse tribes of Ethiopia or perhaps explore the world-famous open savannahs of Hwange? No matter your safari requirements, our passionate travel experts are on hand to offer the best advice.

Ethiopia’s Omo Valley and tribes – 10 days – from US$ 2,740pps
Omo Valley is one of Ethiopia’s most fascinating melting pots of tribal diversity. This ten-day cultural experience offers the unique opportunity to learn about the ancient customs and practices of Ethiopia’s indigenous tribes. Join us and experience the wonders of this extraordinary region and its fascinating people.

Special offer
Take advantage of this ‘stay for 4 & pay for 3’ offer at Camp Hwange – Hwange NP, Zimbabwe – a wildlife haven surrounded by rugged mopane woodland and sandy soil teak forests. Valid until 31 May 2023.
T’s & C’s apply. Contact our travel team at travel@africageographic.com for more info.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Entries for the AG Photographer of the Year 2023 are now closed, and we are racing towards the nail-biting moment when our judges select their favourite images. As is always the case towards the end of our annual competition, entries have been flooding in, and this week we are treating you to two galleries of magnificent images! I highly recommend taking some time to let the beauty of these pictures sink in – I promise they will brighten your day.

And speaking of brightening the day, our final story of the week details one of my encounters with Mary, the eland of Talek Gate in the Maasai Mara. She became something of a fixture during my time in Kenya and taught me a thing or two about the curious nature of eland. You can read more about Mary (and the world’s largest antelope in general) below.

Finally, I haven’t forgotten to offer up a fact this week. But in light of Simon’s message about our rhino conservation safari, this one feels appropriate. Did you know that the bids for the world’s largest rhino farm auction closed on Monday? There were no viable bids. Apparently, there are still private talks in progress, the results of which are due to be announced at the end of today. The lives of some 2,000 white rhinos – around 8% of the remaining population – hang precariously in the balance. As does the future of private rhino ownership.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-12-gallery-1/
MAGNIFICENT IMAGES 1
The first of two galleries featuring our Week 12 selection – the penultimate round of entries have once again delivered some award-worthy celebrations of Africa

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-12-gallery-2/
MAGNIFICENT IMAGES 2
Feast your eyes upon the second gallery for our Week 12 selection – filled with images guaranteed to lift your hearts and buoy your spirits

Story 3
https://africageographic.com/stories/eland/
ELAND
The eland is the largest antelope on Earth. Somewhat tricky to spot, ticking one off your African safari list is rewarding

Our Mara safari

AG safari client Lex Van Vught recently returned from his stay at Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp in the Mara North Conservancy of the Maasai Mara. Here is what he had to say about his experience:

“Our second stay at the Oltepesi Tented Safari Camp was as excellent as our first, this time not in peak season. We actually now prefer February, as major sightings attracted a maximum of 10 game-viewing vehicles instead of the 50+ we experienced in July/August. The only negative is that there are no wildebeest crossings, but having seen these in the past, we just loved the tranquillity and solitude. Cat sightings were still spectacular and photographic opportunities abounded. We also recorded 161 bird species. As before, the service levels, food and friendliness at the camp made our stay a joy. All arrangements by Africa Geographic were perfect.”

WATCH: Rhino conservation in action – to whet your appetite for the limited-availability safari opportunity Simon describes above (03:28). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 12 – Gallery 2

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.

Here is Gallery 2 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 1.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

When mom returns with supplies (in this case, a regurgitated breakfast for black-backed jackal pups). Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Hugh Michler

An uneasy truce as a pride of lions watch an elephant herd moving past. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid

A mutual alliance between a Ju/’ hoansi Bushman and a meerkat sharing a moment in the Kalahari. Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana. © Jack Swynnerton

A spectacled weaver showing off his beautifully decorated nest in the hopes that his building skills might attract a mate. Bubye River, Zimbabwe. © Quinn Kloppers

A young mona monkey regards the photographer with curiosity. Lekki Conservation Centre, Lagos, Nigeria. © Cristobal Alexis Vergara Fierro

It’s not the lion you see that gets you…Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Licinia Machado

A pair of serval kittens emerge into the open. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Mostahfiz Gani

The unfathomable, sentient expression of a resting chimpanzee. Kibale National Park, Uganda. © Turgay Uzer

“Mellow moments between a cheetah mother and her cub as another day draws to a close”. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Pedro Amaral

A black-backed jackal thinks twice about tangling with a springbok. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Rian van Schalkwyk

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 12 – Gallery 1

Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.

Here is Gallery 1 of the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week. To see the other gallery, follow the link: Gallery 2.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Cat scan. An African wildcat surveys the world from its vantage point. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Hugh Michler

Every mountain gorilla’s nose print is as unique as a human’s fingerprint and can be used to identify individuals. Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda. © Laura Dyer

Postcard from Amboseli. Supertusker Craig strikes another picture-perfect pose in front of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Licinia Machado

Beauty and the beests. Wildebeest file between a vast flock of lesser flamingos. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Mary Schrader

A heart-stopping moment for the photographer as a fast-moving dust cloud turned out to be a herd of elephants stampeding towards the water. “As for me…I cried and cried and silently wiped away the tears and dust from my eyes and cheeks.” Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Mostahfiz Gani

A tiny terrapin turns into a bite-sized snack for a female giant kingfisher. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Ona Ackermann

Standing on the shoulders (heads) of giants. A cattle egret hitches a ride. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Paul Joynson-Hicks

Are the wildebeest here yet? Ndutu region, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania. © Pierre van der Berg

Family portrait. These dwarf mongooses huddled for warmth on a windy day. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Ren Schiffer

Black-faced impala at a natural salt lick, supplementing their mineral intake. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Rian van Schalkwyk

A pearl-spotted owlet with some yellow-bellied greenbul leftovers. Mapungubwe National Park, Limpopo, South Africa. © Stefan Toerien

If you’ve got it, flaunt it. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Yaron Schmid

Eland

Sitting in my safari vehicle, on the back end of very little sleep and with the prospect of a rather long night ahead, I waited patiently at the Talek Gate entrance to the Maasai Mara National Park for the grinding wheels of bureaucracy to spit out my ticket. Shamefully, I had my head buried in my phone and was paying very little attention to my surroundings. That changed the instant something breathed soft, warm air into my right ear. My head whipped around, and I found myself face to face with a deep brown, gentle eye fringed with soft eyelashes. It was Mary, the tame Talek eland, and she had come looking for a snack.

Eland: the world’s largest antelope

Though often admired from afar, few people have the opportunity to observe an eland in close proximity. It is one thing to know that they are the largest antelope in the world, but quite another to have the evidence presented at eye level. Sitting in my raised Land Rover (on a cushion that I might see over the front), the eland cow’s shoulder stood above mine and, had the impulse struck, I could easily have leant forward and kissed her on the nose.

Eland antelope are massive animals, standing just under two metres tall and with some more imposing specimens weighing over a ton. The name “eland” comes from the Dutch word for “moose” (or “elk”), and the comparison is a fair one. Though moose stand slightly taller at the shoulder, eland are bulkier, and the two species are closely matched in mass. Eland belong to the spiral-horned antelope tribe, Tragelophini, along with kudu, nyala and bushbuck but are the only members of the Taurotragus genus. Genetically, they are closely related to the greater kudu and, on one occasion, were observed to interbreed, producing a sterile, hybrid offspring. (Interestingly, eland were reported to interbreed with domestic cattle relatively frequently in Zimbabwe during the late 1800s and early 1900s – consistently producing sterile calves.)

Like the other members of their tribe, eland are handsome antelope with pronounced sexual dimorphism. Their colour varies depending on geographic region, but the cows are usually shaded between ochre and tan, occasionally with faint white stripes running down the flanks. The bulls are darker in colour, almost a deep blue at the height of their dominance. Mature males sport pendulous dewlaps, which may play a role in thermoregulation (and possibly social signalling; see below). While both sexes carry a set of twisting horns, those of the cows are usually longer, and the bulls are substantially more robust.

Despite their considerable bulk and impressive helical horns, eland are generally retiring animals and usually move away at the sight of approaching humans. They are also the slowest antelope, relying on their bulk to intimidate potential predators and protect the more vulnerable calves and adolescents. Yet, for all their unwieldy weight, an adult can still leap over two metres into the air from a standing start (a fact that briefly crossed my mind when Mary gave me the side-eye for refusing her food).

Eland rely on their intimidating size to ward predators off from their young

A giant of giants

There are two recognised species: the common eland (Taurotragus oryx) and the giant eland (Taurotragus derbianus – also known as Lord Derby’s eland). As one might have guessed, the giant eland is slightly larger than the common eland on average. However, the difference is minor, and the name refers more to the size of the giant eland’s horns. The two animals fall into roughly the same weight class, making the distinction between the largest and second-largest antelope more a matter of pedantry.

Common eland occur on open plains throughout much of southern Africa to Ethiopia and the arid zones of South Sudan. Giant eland are divided into eastern and western populations, the former in Cameroon, the Central African Republic and South Sudan and the latter between Mali and Senegal. Visually, the two species are tricky to distinguish, but the giant eland has slightly longer legs and more vivid markings.

The eland is the largest genus of antelope in the world

Quick eland facts

	Common eland (Taurotragus oryx)	Giant eland (Taurotragus derbianus)
Height (shoulder)	Males: 160cm	Males: 180cm
	Females: 140cm	Females: 130cm
Mass	Males: 500-900kg	Males: 400-1,200kg
	Females: 340-445kg	Females: 300-600kg
Social structure	Gatherings of up to 100 (consisting of smaller herds)	Small herds of around 20 individuals
Gestation	Nine months	Nine months
IUCN conservation status	Least Concern	Vulnerable

Eland are nomadic (they do not defend territories) and crepuscular, resting in the shade during the day’s heat. They are predominantly browsers but may take advantage of the nutritious grass growth at the start of the rainy season. Eland are social animals, with males, females and immature animals each forming their own separate herds with a linear hierarchy. Older bulls are sometimes solitary.

Clickity clack – don’t talk back

The surprisingly loud sound heard when eland walk has long confounded biologists and the authors of reference books. Some suggested that the click came from the two halves of the hooves splaying open and snapping together when the foot lifted, while others concluded the sound was more likely joint-related. Today, the commonly accepted explanation is that the clicks are produced as tendons slide over the bones of the front carpal joint. Furthermore, though the joints click while the animals walk, male eland also elicit the sound while standing by lifting and lowering their front legs. So, what is the purpose of this peculiar anatomical anomaly?

The answer appears to be that the clicks are part of a complex system of social signalling between males, designed to intimidate rivals while avoiding physical conflict unless necessary. Bro-Jørgensen and Beeston (2015) examined several features, and behavioural traits of 280 male eland observed over eight years. They found that the frequency of loud “knee”-clicks indicated body size and social status. In other words, the deeper and louder the click, the larger and more intimidating the male.

In addition, they identified several other “status badges” – “long-lasting, but reversible, signals of dominance”. In eland, these include a dense growth of dark fur on the face, which forms a face mask that varies depending on the individual’s social status. The dark masks and thick facial fur characterise dominant bulls but regress if that animal loses status or hierarchy. The dewlap size may also serve a similar function, but this has not yet been confirmed.

Captive male eland have been observed to enter into phases of intermittent heightened aggression similar to musth cycles in elephants. This is termed “ukali” in eland and is probably linked to raised testosterone levels, which may physically manifest in darker fur colour and increased hair growth. Similarly, this could relate to the intensity of the clicks because androgen hormones increase muscle mass and strength, and thus the acoustic frequency of the sound produced. Combined, these characteristics serve as signals to rival males.

Eland and people (beyond Mary)

The eland features heavily in the folklore of many African tribes, especially the San people of southern Africa, who frequently included paintings of the animals in their rock art. There are several myths involving the eland, which often represent good fortune, freedom, courage and self-sacrifice. They are also closely associated with the sun, probably due to their light colouring, and were sometimes kept in homesteads for milk and meat. If the milk of a cow was ever used to treat a malnourished human baby successfully, the cow was transported with a guard of honour back into the wild and released as a show of gratitude.

Eland are docile animals that tame easily. The females produce milk with a higher fat and protein content than cows. These factors, combined with their innate resistance to many indigenous diseases and parasites, made them attractive production animals for homestead or small-scale farming operations, some of which still exist in South Africa and Russia.

Common eland are currently not endangered, and the most recent population assessment conducted by the IUCN in 2016 estimated that between 90,000-110,000, mature individuals remain across their range. Giant eland are listed as “Vulnerable” on the IUCN Red List, and their numbers are believed to be declining. Habitat loss, snaring and poaching for bushmeat represent the most significant threats to remaining populations. At last estimate, there were thought to be 8,400 to 9,800 individuals remaining.

Where to find eland

Though widely distributed throughout much of southern and East Africa, the antelope usually occur at low densities and can be surprisingly tricky to find. A visit to Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe, Etosha National Park in Namibia or Nyika Plateau in Malawi will offer the best odds of encountering them in the wild. They are also abundant in the Mara-Serengeti ecosystem.

Africa is a land of giants. With behemoths like elephants, giraffes and rhinos, the shy eland is often dwarfed by their more iconic presence. But as my close encounter with Mary reminded me (albeit in an unusual situation), they are magnificent animals in their own right.

References on eland

Bro-Jørgensen, J. and Beeston, J. (2015) “Multimodal Signalling in an Antelope: Fluctuating Facemasks and Knee-Clicks Reveal the Social Status of Eland Bulls,” Animal Behaviour, 102, pp. 231–239

THIS WEEK

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Breath-taking images + the majesty of De Hoop Nature Reserve

A quick (true) story. A few years ago, a young couple requested our help to design the perfect gorilla trekking safari in Uganda. We did just that. They took our itinerary and ignored us from then on – conducting research with the assistance of online technology to reduce the package cost by a few hundred Dollars by choosing different accommodation – about 40 km away from our suggested lodge. On the day of their gorilla trek, their transfer to the gorilla trekking centre in Buhoma (Bwindi) took 4 hours. That road is a nightmare after rain and it often rains in that part of the world. They missed their trek – the permits cost $750 each.

The mix of passion, experience and empathy that goes into building the perfect safari is what STILL separates human safari consultants from algorithms. If you think that technology reduces CONSUMER costs, think again. Can you think of ANY service industry taken over by software where you have benefited via reduced costs? Perhaps it’s the feeling of being in control. We are interfacing with billion-dollar software that gobbles up other people’s data which it uses to direct us to an affiliated business. How much control do we really have? Technology is good for many things – as we all know. BUT whether you should outsource your remote-Africa safari decisions to algorithms is up for debate. I am keen to hear your thoughts.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Ready to book your next bucket-list safari in Kenya or Uganda? Chat with our safari experts, and let’s get you out into Africa…adventure awaits!

Gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Uganda – 6day/5nights – From US$ 3,380 pps
You will start this Uganda safari by exploring the stunning biodiversity of Entebbe Botanical Gardens before seeking out the world-famous tree-climbing lions in Queen Elizabeth National Park. From there, explore Bwindi National Park – trekking mountain gorillas and discovering the Batwa culture.

Maasai Mara migration season safari – 7days – from US$ 4,585 pps
Now’s your chance to witness the spectacle of the Great Migration in Kenya’s Maasai Mara as vast herds of wildebeest and zebra plunge through rivers, dodge predators and gallop across the plains. We recommend securing your spot on this seven-day safari between July and October, when the migration is in full swing.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that elephant calves are born with tusks? They are deciduous teeth (“milk teeth”) that grow to around 5cm and then fall out when the elephant is about a year old, to be replaced by a permanent set. This adorable fact often goes unnoticed because they are small and difficult to see for the first few months. But if you look closely at a particularly touching image from this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery, you may just glimpse some tiny tusks peeping out beneath the trunk of a genuinely delightful baby forest elephant.

Precious offspring feature heavily this week, contrasting beautifully with spectacular displays of Africa at its most raw. From curious cephalopods and near misses to gentle light and scenes of agrestic simplicity, the photographers have once again excelled themselves. Entries close on the 30th of this month, so this is your last chance to submit your finest images!

Our second story of the week will take you on a journey to the magnificent De Hoop Nature Reserve in South Africa. This haven of soft white dunes, azure waters, unique vegetation and endangered wildlife is one of the country’s conservation success stories. Read all about it below and then add it to your list of must-visit destinations.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-11/
BREATH-TAKING PHOTOGRAPHS
Our Week 11 gallery is here as Photographer of the Year 2023 enters its final stretch! Our selected finalists stand a chance of winning a share of $10,000 and a Botswana safari

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/de-hoop-nature-reserve/
DE HOOP
De Hoop Nature Reserve in South Africa’s Western Cape offers sea, wetlands, rare plants, diverse wildlife and hiking trails

WATCH: This dramatic video of an elephant rescue in Mana Pools, Zimbabwe, has been viewed over 3 million times (02:45). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 11

Our Photographer of the Year 2023 is open for submissions, with cash prizes of US$10,000 for the winner and two runners-up. Winners and their partners will also join our CEO Simon Espley and his wife Lizz on the ultimate private safari in Botswana.

Photographer of the Year is open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week

Operation Baby Bat-Eared Fox. This pair had to rescue and relocate their litter of young kits after the den was flooded by the first rains of the season. Unusually, male bat-eared foxes bear the brunt of offspring-rearing responsibilities. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Wade Buchan

The shimmering beauty of a bigfin reef squid. This curious little cephalopod followed the photographer around during her dive. “As you might guess from the fishing net in the background, this species is one of the most commercially important squid species for human consumption.” Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. © Brina Bunt

The lanner falcons of the Kgalagadi often lurk around water points, using their formidable speed to ambush the creatures – in this case, a red-billed quelea – drawn to the water’s edge.13th Borehole, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Christo Giliomee

A rockhopper penguin against the beautiful backdrop of Rockhopper Bay and South Africa’s subantarctic station on remote Marion Island. “Few South Africans know that this incredible place is a part of our heritage.” Marion Island, South Africa. © Danielle Conry

“Golden hour gathering. A clan of elusive brown hyenas basks in the warm glow of the setting sun, savouring the last moments of daylight.” Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, Botswana. © Jack Swynnerton

A dawn patrol of leonine intensity. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Jenny Zhao

Bath time is no laughing matter. Zambezi National Park, Zimbabwe. © Liz Lane

The rose among the horns. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Matt Meyer

De Hoop Nature Reserve

Not too far from Cape Town in the Overberg region of South Africa, near the southernmost tip of Africa, lies a protected haven of sand dunes, long white beaches, beautiful mountains and 70km of spectacular, pristine coastline. Here, a marine reserve stretches 5km into the ocean, where dolphins surface and whales breach and play. De Hoop Nature Reserve is a world apart from the bright city lights.

Inland, away from the coast, this stunning 34,000-hectare reserve is a UNESCO Ramsar World Heritage Site, rich in biodiversity, home to an array of unique and rare wildlife, and a favourite destination for hikers, cyclists, bird watchers, and whale watchers.

Once upon a time

Thousands of years ago, Stone Age people hunted wildlife in what is now De Hoop Nature Reserve, followed by Late Stone Age hunter-gatherers who lived off the land and coastal resources. Before the arrival of Europeans, the nomadic Khoisan or Khoekhoen roamed the inland plains. (Today, carefully preserved artefacts from this era are displayed at the tourist information centre at the main entrance.) On guided walks, one can even visit the middens, where the indigenous inhabitants of the southern coast, known as Strandlopers, combed the beaches and consumed shellfish for hundreds of years. The Overberg region was colonised in the early eighteenth century, and over the next 100 years, it became known for sheep farming, horse and cattle breeding, and grain farming.,

The Cape Provincial Administration bought the De Hoop farm in 1956, and De Hoop Nature Reserve was proclaimed in 1957. The further acquisition of land enlarged this. Initially, the reserve served as a wildlife farm, where rare and endangered species, such as bontebok and Cape mountain zebra, were bred for restocking. Since the early 1970s, though, the objective of De Hoop has been the conservation of this unique coastal region, and in 1986 a Marine Protected Area was proclaimed off its coast, contributing to the conservation of the region’s coastal marine resources.

Wildlife and conservation success in De Hoop

De Hoop’s varied habitat supports a diversity of wildlife. The reserve hosts 86 mammal species, including the rare bontebok and Cape mountain zebra, eland, grey rhebok, baboons, yellow mongoose and caracals. Lucky visitors may even spot the occasional Cape leopard. And there are many ways for visitors to De Hoop to get out and enjoy this local wildlife – whether through traditional game drives in a vehicle, guided mountain bike rides or hikes. Cycling past the plentiful herds of eland and bontebok and walking among the zebras is an experience not to be missed.

This experience is all the more precious as De Hoop (along with a neighbouring conservancy) is now home to a slowly growing population of endangered Cape mountain zebra. This achievement is no small feat considering their near extinction at the beginning of the 20^th century, after hunting and habitat loss reduced the population to less than 60 individuals. But conservation efforts by local reserves, national parks and landowners helped bolster numbers, and their story is now one of South Africa’s most successful conservation stories. The population established at De Hoop in the 1960s contributed to their survival, and today their numbers in South Africa have grown from under 100 in the 1950s to 1,200 animals by 2000.

The bontebok in the reserve share a similar history. The bontebok, a sub-species of blesbok, was once so endangered due to excess hunting, agricultural encroachment and competition with domestic stock for forage and water that only 17 individuals remained by the 1800s. Drastic intervention to save them from extinction in 1931 led to the establishment of the nearby Bontebok National Park (near Swellendam). By 1969, the bontebok population number 800 strong, and today the population hovers between 2,500 and 3,000. While not abundant, the bontebok’s future is considered secure (although the bontebok is still listed as vulnerable on the IUCN’s Red List). A current headcount of 308 of these antelope roams De Hoop – more than just a glimmer of hope for a species that was once nearly wiped out.

The abundant plant kingdom of De Hoop

De Hoop forms part of the Cape Floral Kingdom – the world’s smallest and most threatened plant kingdom. Fynbos, confined mainly to nutrient-poor soils in the winter rainfall areas of the Western Cape, dominates this kingdom. De Hoop is important for conserving lowland fynbos, as this is the largest area conserving this rare vegetation type. Of all the approximately 1,500 fynbos species found here, 108 are rare or threatened, 34 are endemic and found nowhere else in the world, and incredibly, 14 species are so newly discovered that they have yet to be scientifically examined and described.

Taking a hike on one of the inland trails, visitors find themselves knee-high in fynbos, bathed in fragrance, and surrounded by shades of yellow, coral, pink, purple and green – including heath-like ericas, wiry reed-like restios, and geophytes that store moisture in their fleshy underground bulbs.

Winged wonders of De Hoop

The De Hoop wetlands are internationally recognised as Birdlife International Important Bird and Biodiversity Area, and over 260 species of resident and migratory birds are found here, including flamingos, African black oystercatchers, great white pelicans, migrant wading birds, African fish eagles, endemic southern boubous and colourful malachite sunbirds.

The reserve is also home to a newly established colony of endangered African penguins – another conservation success story. After BirdLife South Africa partnered with CapeNature and SANCCOB to create a new breeding colony for African penguins by constructing a predator-proof fence in 2018 and introducing 148 juvenile penguins to the colony site, more penguins started spontaneously arriving at the site in mid-2022. In late 2022, the first pair of chicks was recorded at the colony – a promising prospect for the future success of the colony.

Not too far from the colony, on the cliffs of Potberg Mountain, avid birders can view the Western Cape’s last remaining breeding colony of Cape vultures. A short but steep hike up De Hoop’s Klipspringer Trail leads to a lookout platform over the colony, home to around 150 Cape vultures. The hike is worth the climb, and the views are spectacular, with vultures soaring overhead, diving and circling in the sky.

De Hoop’s marine reserve

The De Hoop Marine Protected Area extends 5km out to sea from the coastline of the nature reserve. This is one of Africa’s largest marine protected areas, providing a sanctuary for a fascinating array of marine life. Adventurers can explore the coastal rock pools, fossilised dunes, sandy beaches and rocky shores, where marine life of all shapes and sizes can be seen – from bright orange starfish to purple sea urchins, limpets, barnacles, octopus, and some of the many sea birds that call these shores home. Snorkelling in the large, clear rock pools is one of the best ways to experience this magical marine world.

The protected waters are a haven for endangered southern right whales, and 40% of the world’s population of these gentle giants return from feeding in the far Southern Ocean close to Antarctica in the summer months to the waters off De Hoop annually, to mate, give birth and rear their calves. The marine protected area is an important destination for these magnificent mammals, as it guarantees a safe nursery, and during the season, around 120 whales call De Hoop home.

Southern right whales travel to De Hoop to birth their calves here

At the peak periods of the season (June and December), as many as fifty can be spotted in a day, making the reserve one of the best spots for land-based whale watching in the world. The whales come so close to shore that visitors can simply sit on the dunes and watch them as they breach, blow and belly-flop. Aside from whales, visitors are likely to spot diving dolphins and frolicking seals, and the waters here are home to at least 250 species of fish.

Explore and stay

Want to explore magnificent De Hoop? To find lodges in or near De Hoop, search for our ready-made packages, or get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.

For the keen hiker, De Hoop has one of the best hiking trails in South Africa: the five-day, 55km Whale Trail, which features well-equipped accommodation along the route. The ‘slack-packing’ route offers coastal and mountain walking, with spectacular views and plenty of opportunities for whale watching. Do note that hiking the Whale Trail requires booking well in advance.

Visiting De Hoop between August and November, during whale watching time, is particularly rewarding, but the reserve has something to offer explorers throughout the year.

Various accommodation options are available, from luxury lodges with panoramic views over the Indian Ocean to self-catering cottages and campsites.

Several lodges offer luxury experiences within the reserve

Final thoughts

As the sun goes down on another crisp Cape coast day, and the sky lights up crimson, orange and yellow, there’s nothing better than to sit, gin and tonic in hand, and look out over the endless ocean. Silhouetted against the sky, a southern right whale and her calf make for a sensational sunset spectacle.

De Hoop offers the complete outdoor experience: sea, unspoiled beaches, dunes, wetlands, rare plants, diverse animals, incredible bird life and hiking trails. From adventure, peace and tranquillity to luxury and wilderness, De Hoop has it all.

THIS WEEK

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Sensational snapshots + Madagascar’s vanishing biodiversity

I recently played a minor role in an interesting Facebook exchange that is worth highlighting. It started with the operations manager of a large community-owned Big 5 game reserve posting a photo of a black rhino in the reserve and celebrating her safe existence thanks to ‘24/7 by state-of-the-art surveillance and hyper-alert security’.

Predictably, one person, a freelance safari guide, soon chirped “You really think it’s clever to advertise rhinos while nearby they’re slaughtered daily?”

To which the reserve manager replied:

“Sigh. Do we really, really have to go over this again? As before: Poachers aren’t trawling my social media looking for rhinos. Poachers already know that we have rhinos. It’s no secret. We are a legitimate Big 5 game reserve. We advertise this. Our commercial survival, and the conservation of rhinos, depends on us advertising and marketing our status to paying guests who want to see rhinos in the wild. These guests who want to see rhinos are the ones paying for their conservation, who are supporting their very existence. We cannot keep this a secret. We have hundreds of employees and thousands of close neighbours among our local communities. All know that we have rhinos. Knowing this, we invest heavily in anti-poaching, surveillance, security, information etc. I hope that this informs your thinking as I’ve addressed this before with you.”

Hypocritically, the same freelance guide recently posted a video on Facebook of rhinos they saw in a local national park – with location disclosed. ‘Sigh’ indeed

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

From the urban traveller’s paradise of Cape Town to two spectacular wilderness areas in Botswana, let us romance you with the ultimate southern African adventures…

Cape Town & Khwai – 9days/8nights – from ZAR 58,340pps
Begin this best-of-both-worlds holiday by immersing yourself in the exquisite natural beauty, magnificent beaches, edgy urban delights and colourful history of Cape Town. Then on to a safari in the heart of Botswana’s Khwai wilderness, where you’ll encounter some of the continent’s most iconic wildlife. Explore this magnificent landscape on game drives, guided walks, and boat safaris before returning to the unparalleled comfort of your luxury accommodation—a trip guaranteed to create lifelong memories.

Botswana salt pans – 4days/3nights – from US$ 945pps
Embark on a safari against the backdrop of one of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful landscapes. From the stark figures of ancient baobabs and the imposing forms of elephants to habituated meerkats and zebra migrations, this tour of the world-famous salt pans of Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans in Botswana goes far beyond the average “Big 5” safari to create a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

When we were children, summer holidays stretched on forever, and a year felt like a lifetime. But the older we get, the faster time seems to move. There are some fascinating explanations for why this happens, but the point that I am trying to make is that we are already racing towards the end of April 2023. This, in turn, means that our Photographer of the Year competition is rapidly approaching its eagerly anticipated conclusion. Just two weeks left before we start selecting our top images!

So, for now, take the opportunity to soak in the wonder of this week’s gallery with childlike appreciation. Our most recent exhibition includes zebra violence, feline beauties, unusual encounters and some watchful eyes. Our entrants never fail to amaze us.

And then, did you know that humans have only inhabited Madagascar for around 1,500 years? Coincidentally (?), Madagascar experienced an extinction wave some 1,000 years ago that saw the loss of giant lemurs the size of gorillas and elephant birds larger than ostriches. They were artworks of evolution – gone forever. Tragically, much of Madagascar’s biodiversity has either been lost or is teetering on the brink. To drive home this message, scientists have found novel ways to quantify what it would take to recover. You can read more in our second story below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-10/
SENSATIONAL SHOTS
Don’t miss our selection of Photographer of the Year 2023 entries for Week 10! Just one week left to enter for a chance to win your share of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/measured-in-millions-madagascar-niodiversity-loss/
MADAGASCAR’S CHALLENGE
It would take millions of years to reverse the damage done to Madagascar and its unique and precious biodiversity, according to a new study

Art for Conservation

In our forum this week: Moses Selebatso from Kalahari Research & Conservation (KRC) invites you to take part in an art auction. 100% of the proceeds from this sale will be donated to the KRC’s vital work protecting the remarkable, vast landscapes and wildlife of the Kgalagadi. If you would like to support their efforts, now’s your chance to get bidding!

WATCH: Wish you were here? A simply sublime escape to why we do this. Turn up the volume (00:39). Click here to watch

Measured in millions – the years needed to restore the lost biodiversity of Madagascar

Nature may be resilient in many ways, but sometimes the damage done is so severe that only time – and an abundance thereof – could ever affect a genuine repair. A new study published in Nature Communications suggests that it would take millions of years to reverse the damage done to Madagascar and its unique and precious biodiversity.

Madagascar has been evolutionarily isolated for 88 million years, its geography and climate shaping a host of fascinating plants and animals away from outside influences. As a result, 90% of the island’s fauna and flora is endemic, with phenomenal biodiversity that is worlds apart from anything else on the planet. The island is so large and its environment so diverse that some have even argued for its consideration as the world’s eighth continent. It is home to over 300 recorded species of birds (60% of which are endemic) and 260 species of reptile, including two-thirds of Earth’s chameleon species. There are over a hundred lemur species, with new species being discovered every few years. From mountain rainforests to deserts, the creatures of Madagascar have specialised in inhabiting a wide variety of habitat types.

But Madagascar’s natural marvels are vanishing at an alarming rate – over 90% of the rainforest has been lost to human encroachment, and more than half the mammals on the island are considered endangered. Many of the island’s distinctive creatures are found only in small populations adapted for limited, specific habitats, making them particularly vulnerable to extinction.

To understand the extent of human impact on the island, a team of Malagasy, European and American scientists set out to measure how long it would take before the island’s biodiversity could be restored. This is a complicated question because no two islands or habitats are the same, species diversity develops at different rates, and some take longer to “recover” than others. There are also different approaches to what counts as lost or recovered diversity, including taxonomic and phylogenetic diversity. For this study, the researchers opted to focus on the recovery of taxonomic diversity – measured by total number of species – in Madagascar, taking into account regional rates of colonisation, speciation and extinction. Simply put, they examined how long it would take for the same number of species to evolve to replace those lost to extinction, offering an unusual temporal perspective on existing and potential damage.

This approach required that the scientists ascertain the relationships between existing species and the number and causes of recent extinctions. As not all this information was immediately available for all the Malagasy species, they built comprehensive datasets for each mammal species known to have inhabited Madagascar. This included the 219 mammals alive today and another 30 that have gone extinct in the past two millennia. Their research also required the construction of a genetic family tree to establish relationships and thus estimate how long each species took to evolve.

The authors concluded that it would take three million years to “replace” the species already lost to extinction. However, this period assumes that no further losses be allowed to take place. If Madagascar were to lose all of its endangered mammal life, it would take a staggering 23 million years to return to previous levels of evolutionary complexity and diversity. Furthermore, evolution will not simply recreate the lost species – what is lost is lost forever.

This time calculation took the researchers by surprise, as it is much longer than previous studies have found on other islands such as New Zealand or the Caribbean. This, in turn, emphasises the urgency of protecting Madagascar’s natural marvels to save the species that represent millions of years of evolution. The study’s results “suggest that an extinction wave with deep evolutionary impact is imminent on Madagascar unless immediate conservation actions are taken.”

Reference and resources

Michielsen, N. M. et al. (2023) “The Macroevolutionary Impact of Recent and Imminent Mammal Extinctions on Madagascar,” Nature Communications, 14(1)

Read more about Madagascar’s unique biodiversity here:

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 10

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week

Look me in the eye! A flap-necked chameleon demonstrates its ability to move its eyes independently of each other. Bubye River, Zimbabwe. © Quinn Kloppers

A black crake sets up shop in a dead elephant, catching flies attracted to the rotting carcass. Khwai Private Reserve, Botswana. © Ernest Porter

Those kicks were fast as lightning…An action-filled morning as two Burchell’s zebras (almost) come to blows. Namib Desert, Namibia. © Sanet Rossouw

The latest bright-eyed addition to the Nyakagezi gorilla family filling up on bamboo shoots. Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, Uganda. © Michael Stavrakakis

Finding one’s feet is tricky with legs already over a metre long. Luangwa (Thornicroft’s) giraffe are a rare subspecies of the Masai giraffe endemic to Zambia. South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. © Aaron Mwale

The eternal dance of predator and prey plays out against a backdrop of the Nairobi city skyline. Nairobi National Park, Kenya. © Rajesh Shah

Surf and chirp. A Cape wagtail caught out by an icy Atlantic wave. “After making it to safety, it spent the next twenty minutes drying and cleaning its feathers.” Yzerfontein, Western Cape, South Africa. © Geo Cloete

THIS WEEK

Long-fingered bat. Gorongosa, Mozambique. © Piotr Naskrecki – 2021 Photographer of the Year Finalist

This is a copy of our weekly email newsletter. Subscribe here to receive the newsletter.

Glamorous geladas + fantastic photos

So I challenged ChatGPT – the language processing tool driven by artificial intelligence technology – to come up with a convincing pitch on why your next safari should be with Africa Geographic. This is what it suggested:

“As a fellow lover of adventure and nature, I am reaching out to tell you about Africa Geographic’s hand-made, experience-based safaris.

We craft unforgettable adventures that not only leave a lasting impression on our clients, but also benefit the communities and ecosystems we visit. What sets us apart from our competitors is our unwavering commitment to responsible travel and community development. We believe that our efforts not only provide you with an unforgettable experience, but also contribute to creating a better world.“

Not bad for a bunch of code! My contemplations this morning were fuelled by a dwindling supply of Question Coffee beans – a bag of which I purchased during my recent sojourn in Rwanda. Follow this link to understand how awesome this initiative is. And the coffee is delicious. Nope, not sponsored – just thought I would share the goodness 😉

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

This week we have two hand-picked safaris for you: an authentic wilderness experience deep in South Luangwa National Park and a thrilling adventure in Victoria Falls. And if you can’t choose, why not combine them and get the best of both? Our safari experts are on standby and ready to book your trip.

Affordable South Luangwa safari – expert guide – 5 days – from US$2625 pps
This fantastic combination of walking and vehicle-based game viewing will appeal to experienced safari-goers and novices alike. Expect exceptional wildlife, tracking on foot in the birthplace of the walking safari, scrumptious bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners in Zambia’s premier safari destination.

Victoria Falls – 3 days – from US$ 740 pps
Three days of non-stop action in Africa’s adventure capital – ideal for a short break or add-on to another safari. Either way, unequivocally an iconic destination to tick off your bucket list. Experience the magic of ‘the smoke that thunders’ – one of the seven wonders of the natural world.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Africa is a continent overflowing with photogenic potential, but even amidst all this beauty, there can be no denying that some animals make more dramatic subjects than others. Take the gelada, for example – a primate that, without fail, finds its way into our Photographer of the Year weekly galleries regularly every year.

There is just something about that coiffed mane and deeply-furrowed brow that begs to be photographed. And then, did you know that geladas have forgone the brightly coloured genitals and perineum so favoured by other primate species? This is because they spent the majority of their days foraging on their bottoms, which would make such unambiguous sexual signalling a bit of a waste. Hence the eye-catching scarlet chest patches that set them apart. Check out our first story below to learn more about the fascinating nuances of geladas (and see if you can get through it without singing “Simply the Best”).

Unplanned, though somewhat conveniently, this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery features a male gelada with his chest patch on full display. Also included this week: a lion cub with terrible table manners, a fierce battle between forest giants and one very sharp reflection. How better to celebrate the arrival of the weekend?

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/gelada/
GLAMOROUS GELADAS
With complex social structures & vocabularies, the cliff-dwelling gelada of Ethiopia is one of Africa’s most striking primates

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-9/
AWE-INSPIRING IMAGES
Photographer of the Year 2023 entries for Week 9 have landed! Enter for a chance to win your share of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari

WATCH: “The next 10 years are absolutely critical … solutions are found at a local level …. there are five key pillars to what we do”.
An inspiring video from and about African Parks (09:15). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 9

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week

A spotted hyena keeping ahead of the game with a stolen leopard kill. Manyeleti Game Reserve, Mpumalanga, South Africa. © Karen Blackwood

Hey, back off, buddy! This is my patch. Olkiramatian Conservancy, Kenya. © Benoît Feron

The turning of the tide. The limp body of an unlucky lioness is tossed repeatedly by a herd of buffalo. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Kyle Mills

The aptly named inkblot box kite spider (*Isoxya cicatricosa*) suspended in the middle of its geometrically perfect web. Rooisand Nature Reserve, Western Cape, South Africa. © Grant Evans

Gelada

There are many wonders to behold from the Roof of Africa in Ethiopia. Here in the Highlands, at altitudes over 3,000 metres, a rare goat leaps nimbly between rocks and the continent’s most endangered carnivore – the Ethiopian wolf – stalks through the heather, searching for mole-rats. But of all the weird and wonderful creatures on display, the gelada is unequivocally the star of the show.

Gorgeous geladas

Geladas (Theropithecus gelada) are a species of monkey endemic to the Highlands of Ethiopia, occurring only at altitudes between 1,800 and 4,400 metres above sea level. They are highly social graminivores (grazers) and, given the distinct lack of large trees at their preferred altitude, are the least arboreal primates after humans. They spend their days foraging the plateau’s grasslands before descending to the surrounding cliff faces to pass the night in (relative) safety on narrow ledges.

Astonishingly for an animal so extravagantly adorned with bright colours and coiffed fur, it is only in the past two decades that the gelada has experienced something of a surge in tourist and scientific interest. This is mainly due to Ethiopia’s troubled history, as famine, political turmoil, and civil war laid waste to the country and her people and put paid to any hopes of a burgeoning tourism industry. As the country stabilised, visitors returned to explore a land steeped in history and scenic beauty – and quickly discovered the magic of the geladas.

And, as it turned out, geladas are naturals when it comes to entertaining fascinated tourists and eager photographers. They have an almost uncanny ability to strike a pose, invariably against a backdrop of jaw-dropping scenery. Their bright red, hourglass-shaped chest patches stand out against the muted greens and browns of their habitat, and the thick blonde manes of the males are positively leonine. Geladas also proved to be quick to habituate (like many primate species), allowing visitors the intimate opportunity to observe their social lives. (As we can never resist the opportunity to highlight this, check out this post depicting Africa Geographic travel director Christian Boix’s encounter with a very forward gelada.) Geladas are intelligent and live in exceptionally complex, multilevel societies, so their day-to-day interactions are guaranteed to captivate and enthral onlookers.

Quick facts

Length:	50-75cm
Mass:	Males (average): 18.5kg
	Females (average): 11kg
Social Structure:	Reproductive units, bands and herds
Gestation:	Around six months (approximately 180 days)
Conservation status:	Least concern (for now)

The gelada baboon? No.

The gelada is frequently referred to as a ‘gelada baboon’ – an understandable but incorrect moniker. At first glance, baboons and geladas share several morphological similarities, including basic body and head shapes. The exact phylogenetic relationships between the baboons (Papio spp.), mandrills and drills (Mandrillus spp.), mangabeys (Lophocebus spp. and Cercocebus spp.) and geladas (Theropithecus) have been subject to considerable debate and several changes. However, the most recent genetic studies indicate that baboons and Lophocebus mangabeys are more closely related, and geladas are an evolutionary outgroup. While it is undoubtedly true that common names of animals do not always reflect their exact biological family (think koala bear), using appropriate terminology can help prevent confusion. [For an entertaining, subtle rebuke of scientists referring to geladas as ‘gelada baboons’ – and some clarity on this subject – you can read What is (not) a baboon?]

The gelada is the only surviving member of its genus, though fossil records show that there were once at least three larger geladas spread across Africa and much of Asia. Today, there are two recognised subspecies: the northern gelada (T. g. gelada) and the southern gelada (T. g. obscurus), which is also known as the eastern or Heuglin’s gelada.

Gregarious gelada

If geladan taxonomy was tricky, then their social structure is downright Daedalian. Let’s start with the basics: the fundamental building block of gelada society consists of a small group (two to 12) related females, their babies and a couple of (usually unrelated) mature males. These are called “reproductive units”. The next step up the gelada social pyramid is “bands” – groups of between two to 27 reproductive units. Bands usually share overlapping home ranges with around three other bands, which form a “community”. Finally, there are “herds”: temporary aggregations of over sixty reproductive units (potentially over 1,000 geladas). With us so far? Good, because there’s more.

Within each reproductive unit, the females coexist in a hierarchy, with the more dominant members demonstrating greater reproductive success. The males within the reproductive unit curry favour with the females, often showing a distinct preference for one or two individuals and reinforcing existing bonds through grooming. This diligent approach to caregiving may serve the males well in the event of an aggressive takeover attempt by another male. Though considerably smaller than the males, the females yield formidable power in the unit and may choose to support or abandon a male depending on his contribution.

While females tend to stay within their natal reproductive units for life, young males generally have to strike out on their own once they reach sexual maturity. They form small groups of all-male units and wait for the opportunity to join (or take over) a reproductive unit.

The complexities of gelada societies abound and would occupy several pages if described in full. Scientists are still unravelling fascinating nuggets of information about cheating partners, spontaneous abortions and “contagious” yawns.

Garrulous gelada

These intricate social niceties require considerable communicative abilities. Naturally, body language cues play a central role in gelada intercourse. Perhaps the most famous of these signs is the infamous “lip flip”, where the upper lip is folded upwards over the nostrils, exposing a terrifying set of canine teeth. This is combined with a raised brow, exposing pale rings around the eyes. The message is unambiguous: “If you come closer/do that again/ do not move, I will bite you.” It can be used in aggressive displays or by a defensive animal attempting to submit.

However, geladas are not limited to games of charades to convey their message. They talk to each other. Constantly. So much so that some scientists believe that gelada chattering is about as close to human speech as any primate comes. They mutter and lip-smack and can communicate reassurance, appeasement, respect, appreciation, anger, and aggression.

Sitting pretty

Geladas occupy an extreme habitat at high altitudes, and this comes with certain advantages, including a dearth of competition and predators. Leopards, hyenas, servals and birds of prey all hunt geladas, but they are few and far between in the Highlands and living in groups means that there are plenty of eyes to watch for potential problems. So successful is this approach that over 85% of all infant geladas survive to adulthood – a remarkably high number in the wild. Interestingly, Ethiopian wolves pay them no heed and will often wander into the midst of a herd without any reaction from the grazing primates.

The characteristic coifed coat of the gelada

However, living the high life means that nutritious food is hard to find, and geladas have to spend most of their day foraging. 90% of their diet consists of grass; only a fraction is supplemented with seeds, flowers and the odd insect. They are the only primate species to follow this strict dietary approach. Their constant need to feed means that geladas adopt a specialised shuffle gait to move from grass to grass and spend most of their lives on their bottoms. They even have special fatty pads to act as built-in cushions.

Most “Old World” (Cercopithecidae) monkeys display their reproductive status through bright colouration, unambiguously positioned around the genitals and perineum. In the case of geladas, however, the traditional sexual signalling device is hidden from view most of the time, hence the chest patch, which changes colour and texture depending on hormone levels. The chest patches of females in oestrus become bright red and break out into a “necklace” of fluid-filled blisters. If this primate decolletage fails to spark the interest of her preferred male, she will simply position her rump under his nose until he gets the message.

Living high up in the mountains keeps geladas away from most predatory threats. Check out more pics from @pepexplorer here

Life on the edge of a cliff

A shortage of nutrients also makes geladas something of a crop pest. Popular with tourists though geladas may be, farmers take a far less welcoming view of roaming herds raiding their barley fields. One study showed that each animal causes approximately 100kg of crop damage. This conflict with people (especially in a country where food shortages are rife) and its inextricable link with extensive habitat loss is believed to have resulted in a loss of around 50% of Ethiopia’s gelada population over the past half a century. The gelada is listed on the IUCN Red List as “Least Concern”, but their numbers are believed to be declining.

Fortunately, there are protected areas where geladas continue to flourish. Simien Mountains National Park is home to Ethiopia’s largest population and offers some of the best gelada viewing in the country.

Get in touch with our travel team to help arrange your gelada experience – details below this story.

THIS WEEK

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Incredible images + a pending insect ‘apocalypse’

There has been much hullabaloo recently about the decision by the UK government to ban the import of hunting trophies. Amidst the clamour between the warring factions to gain the ascendency, facts have been cast aside and emotional drivel from both sides has dominated.

I have no truck with the UK government forging their own path in this regard – after all that is their sovereign right. But my fear is that the blanket nature of the ban will not end well for some remote African areas not supported by the tourism industry. A targeted ban would make more sense. For example ban and red-list trophy hunting operators and their clients based on defined standards and reporting requirements not being met and ban the hunting of certain species (or genetically-gifted individuals) based on scientifically-determined local populations. Surely this standard-setting and scientific rigour is already being enforced, you may well ask? After all, trophy hunting has been around since the 1800s. No it’s not in place, but for a few exceptions. Even if it was, this solution (a more targeted ban) is not practical – because experience has taught us that laundering illegal products via legal channels is the norm in the opaque wildlife industries. So the blanket ban by the UK government is more practical to implement and police. It is what it is.

We are stuck between a rock and a hard place when it comes to the vast unfenced areas so favoured by trophy hunters and hammered by poaching – the combo effect is devastating. Something has to change

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

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From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that the word “gorilla” owes its origins to an expedition of a Carthaginian explorer known as Hanno the Navigator? He set sail from Carthage over 2,500 years ago with 65 ships and several thousand people and travelled the west coast of Africa. Though the exact translation is disputed, the conclusion seems to be that “gorillai” means “tribe of hairy women” (no comment). The abridged account of their expedition is well worth a read – the encounter with “gorillas” being the denouement.

I fell down this particular rabbit hole while trying to write some creative captions for this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery. As you may have guessed, gorillas make an appearance or three. However, to me, the unifying theme this week pays homage to Africa’s unique and beautiful textures. You can access the gallery below to see if you agree with me.

This week’s second story is more sobering, especially in light of the latest IPCC report released two weeks ago, which again highlights the urgent need to act before global temperatures rise above the 1.5°C threshold. Though insects are not generally considered a symbol of climate change, they are one of the animal groups most vulnerable to its effects. Read more in our second story below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-8/
INCREDIBLE IMAGES
More spectacular entries in our Photographer of the Year Week gallery for this week. We are past the half-way mark so get those entries in!

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/a-second-silent-spring-the-impending-insect-apocalypse/
INSECT APOCALYPSE
What will happen to insect life on this planet if the earth continues to warm? Scientists warn of an insect “apocalypse” with grave consequences for us

Our family safari in South Africa

The Redshaw family recently returned home from their trip to South Africa. Have a look at their awesome feedback for teamAG:

“Dear Christian & the team at AG – We’ve just arrived back this morning in UK from the most amazing time in SA and all thanks to you! We all want to let you know how much we have enjoyed our trip to Phinda, Camps Bay and finally the Orange River and say a huge thank you for your help and expertise in arranging and putting the whole trip together, we couldn’t have done it without you and your advice and patience turned out to be invaluable, so we’re all very grateful. Best Regards – The Redshaw Family”

WATCH: Protecting rhinos from poachers boils down to uncompromising physical labour at ground level. The pride that these young men have in their jobs to keep rhinos safe speaks volumes … (11:18). Click here to watch

A second silent spring – the impending insect apocalypse

Insects may not be the “poster child” for climate change, but they are one of the animal groups most vulnerable to changing temperatures and weather systems. They also provide several fundamental and essential ecosystem services. Now, a team of over 70 scientists from across 19 countries are warning that unless action is taken, “we will drastically reduce our ability to build a sustainable future based on healthy, functional ecosystems”.

The authors examined hundreds of peer-reviewed studies from across the globe, predominantly from the past two decades. Their review provides a comprehensive, one-stop summary of every vital piece of research relating to insects and the threats they face. Scientists have been aware of declining insect species for decades, with some even labelling it an “insect apocalypse”, but viewed as a whole, the review of new research suggests a bleak picture. Both the short- and long-term effects of climate change have the potential to profoundly affect insect thermoregulation, breeding habits and distribution.

The ecological roles and services provided by insects should not be underestimated, and quite apart from a potential loss of biodiversity, their absence will severely impact human life. These services include pollination (including many crop plants), recycling nutrients, and providing an important food source for animals further up the food chain. On the opposite end of the spectrum, some insect families are pests and parasites, destroying livelihoods and spreading disease. Healthy ecosystems and the presence of other competing insects help to keep these damage-causing insects in check.

Most insects cannot internally thermoregulate as mammals and birds can, meaning their response to changing temperatures is primarily behavioural (shade-seeking, for example). As a consequence, they are particularly vulnerable to extreme temperatures. To survive extreme weather events and cycles, some insects may be forced to shift their distribution, while others may face catastrophic disruptions to their breeding cycles. A loss of genetic diversity, sterility and even extinction could follow. In some instances, species (especially those in the tropics) may vanish before they have even been discovered.

The impacts of climate change on insects can be divided into the short-term and long-term. Short-term effects of climate change include heatwaves and extreme temperatures, increased frequency of extreme temperatures, drought, rainfall and floods, and fire. The long-term effects may be more gradual and subtle but could be equally damaging. These include effects on species distributions, phenology (the seasonal patterns of reproduction, growth, and migration, for example) and the relationships between species. One study suggested that the ranges of nearly half the world’s insect species will decline by 50% if average global temperatures rise by 3.2˚C. Conversely, the range of malaria-carrying mosquitoes could expand.

While the authors acknowledge that insect declines can also be attributed to habitat loss and fragmentation, along with many other anthropogenic factors, they emphasise that the aforementioned effects of climate change could exacerbate many of these challenges and even tip endangered populations towards extinction. The knock-on effects will be felt across trophic levels.

With limited exceptions, insects are not particularly iconic animals. The plights of the polar bears and melting ice caps or starving elephants in drought-stricken Africa make for much more emotive climate-change symbolism. Yet the impact of climate change on insects has the potential to be both immediate and long-lived and will have tragic consequences for both ecosystems and people.

“We need to realise, as humans, that we are one species out of millions of species, and there’s no reason for us to assume that we’re never going to go extinct,” says Anahí Espíndola, one of the co-authors and assistant professor of entomology at the University of Maryland. “These changes to insects can affect our species in pretty drastic ways.”

Reference

Harvey, J. A. et al. (2022) “Scientists’ Warning on Climate Change and Insects,” Ecological Monographs.

Climate change is affecting countless species in ways we could never have imagined. Read about the impacts of climate change on the following species:

Aardvarks
Forest elephants
Turtles
Baobabs
Lemurs
Proteas
Meerkats
Hornbills

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 8

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week

Despite their top-heavy appearance, shoebills are able fliers, well-adapted to soaring. Mabamba Swamp, Uganda. © Jean-Christopher Damond

The tide comes in as the sun rises over Hole in the Wall, a natural rocky archway carved out over millennia by the waves. Coffee Bay, Eastern Cape, South Africa. © John Mullineux

I’m all ears. A curious African wild dog (painted wolf) approaches the photographer. Zambezi National Park, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. © Liz Lane

Eye to eye with a critically endangered Western lowland gorilla in the dense forests of the Congo. Ndzehe Forest, Republic of the Congo. © Andy Skillen

A puddle of spots huddled against the chill of the early dawn hours in the Kalahari desert. Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, South Africa. © Pedro Amaral

Move along; nothing to see here. A baby southern tree agama freezes against the bark, relying on its superb camouflage to conceal its presence. Harare, Zimbabwe. © Anjuli Rebelo

Cognito, ergo sum…or the mountain gorilla version thereof. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda. © Nando Morales

THIS WEEK

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Rise of Liwonde + more phenomenal images

So our story last week about Namibia’s free-roaming horses caused quite a stir. There is usually no straight line solution to complex issues like this, and well-meaning people often stray into angry troll mode when expressing their fears and hopes. These horses are not native to Namibia, and some argue that they should be treated like any other introduced species – culled or relocated to privately-owned land – to preserve the natural balance. Some argue that we should leave nature to sort this out. If hyenas and other predators kill all of the horses then that’s nature’s way of deciding what’s best. Others argue that we should cull or relocate naturally-occurring species to protect this introduced species. The Namibian authorities have in the past culled hyenas that were killing the horses – an unusual move for a conservation authority.

Like most situations where a charismatic species is involved, public sentiment plays a role. Yet again we have conflicting agendas slugging it out, and conservation authorities are caught in the crossfire. There is no solution that will satisfy everyone. I trust the authorities and conservationists at ground level to plot the course – as uncomfortable as that may be for many.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

This week we feature two guided safaris. From searching for big cats in the Sabi Sands to exploring all that Namibia has to offer, teamAG is ready and waiting to make your safari dreams a reality.

Sabi Sands big cat safari with Jamie Paterson – 6 days / 5nights – from ZAR 58,815 pps
Join our scientific editor & NatGeo Wild guide Jamie Paterson for a limited-offer safari in the Sabi Sands. With a maximum of just 6 guests and exclusive use of Jaci’s Sabi House, this intimate trip is designed to make the most of this big cat paradise. Track down lions or spend hours getting to know an individual leopard as Jamie offers her insights into the wonders of her old stomping ground.

Namibia safari – Sossusvlei to Etosha – 13 days/ 12nights – from N$ 112,000 (Namibian Dollars) pps
Experience the best of Namibia, from the red dunes of Sossusvlei and the iconic wildlife of Etosha to the rock art of Twyfelfontein and the country’s adventure capital – Walvis Bay. Over 13 days, your private guide will reveal the majesty of Namibia, its phenomenal wildlife and compelling historical and cultural diversity.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

In the past three years of writing for Africa Geographic, I’ve probably found every possible permutation of praise for the many extraordinary parks and reserves on our beautiful continent. However, some stand out in my mind more than others – they stay with me long after they have been published. Our first story below looks at one such destination: Liwonde National Park in Malawi.

We so often forget to celebrate conservation successes, but the incredible journey of Liwonde should be lauded. Thanks to the involvement of African Parks, the park has been pulled from the brink of destruction and catapulted towards a future as an exceptional safari destination. The message of hope that comes from its transformation cannot be understated.

And then, did you know that scientists have discovered a new species of jellyfish off the coasts of South Africa? Though my jellyfish ID skills are limited, I’m fairly certain that the Chrysaora agulhensis features in this week’s Photographer of the Year gallery. How cool is that? Other gallery stars include several examples of the eternal battles of predator and prey, Rikki-Tikki-Tavi and a profoundly soggy owl. This week has been one of my favourite galleries so far!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/liwonde-national-park/
LIWONDE, MALAWI
Liwonde National Park is an exceptional Big 5 safari destination, revived from the brink & now a key protected area in Malawi

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-7/
STUNNING SNAPSHOTS
Our Photographer of the Year 2023 entries for Week 7 are, as always, phenomenal! Enter for a chance to win your share of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari

Pangolin news

Read about the incredible story of Sujaa, a white-bellied pangolin pup, rescued by a team of dedicated conservations who moved her some 300km through a war zone. To support the vital work done by the African Pangolin Working Group, visit their page on our app and donate to them directly.

WATCH: This large male lion is stranded on a rock in the Olifants River (Greater Kruger, South Africa) and attacked by hippos (01:18). Click here to watch

Liwonde National Park

There are times when the conservation world is so saturated with negativity, bad news and heartrending realities that it is easy to overlook the stories of success and good fortune. So, we forget to celebrate the remarkable progress made by dedicated organisations and individuals. Take the incredible journey of Liwonde National Park, for example – pulled from the brink of destruction and catapulted towards a bright future as an exceptional Big 5 safari destination and one of Malawi’s key protected areas.

We are fortunate that nature is capable of such extraordinary resilience to our impact that her regenerative capacity knows few bounds. We owe our gratitude to those devoted to providing our wild spaces with the opportunity to recover from our trespasses. Because when given that chance, parks like Liwonde prove just how much is possible.

Liwonde National Park

Lake Malawi, Malawi’s most notable geographical feature and the world’s fifth-largest freshwater lake, holds a water volume of over 8,000km³. The only outlet is the impressive Shire River, which flows first into shallow Lake Malombe and then continues onwards to bisect the country’s southern third. Liwonde National Park is situated just south of Lake Malombe (and encompasses a small section of shoreline), its western boundary marked by the sinuous curves of the Shire and extending east over 548km² (54,800 ha) of riverine floodplains, woodlands, and arid savannas.

Naturally, the vast Shire River and its various tributaries form the beating heart of this thriving park, with Borassus palm-studded floodplains, thick reedbeds and towering riverine trees setting an almost Okavango-like scene for spectacular wildlife viewing. Away from the network of waterways, mopane woodlands form natural cathedrals overhead, interspersed with the alien forms of candelabra euphorbias. Ancient baobabs loom out of thickets or dominate clearings, their stolid, gnarled forms somehow both other-worldly and reassuring.

Like many of Africa’s formerly protected spaces, Liwonde’s history is complicated, with dark roots in evictions and relocations of its former human residents during the latter half of the 20^th century. As tourism to Malawi stuttered, the park fell into disrepair, and poaching and human-wildlife conflict escalated to a veritable tipping point. More wire snares existed in the park than large animals, predators vanished, and even vultures avoided the beleaguered region. Liwonde was a park in terminal decline…

Restoring the balance in Liwonde

Luckily, this is not another doom-and-gloom tale but one of blossoming hope for a long-term future. Bolstered by the undeniable success of nearby Majete Wildlife Reserve, a forward-thinking partnership was formed between Malawi’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) and the non-profit organisation African Parks. In 2015 African Parks assumed management responsibility for Liwonde National Park and embarked on the painstaking process of transforming it into a viable ecosystem and safari destination.

What does it take for an ecosystem to repair and flourish? The recipe appears deceptively simple – provide nature with the necessary ingredients and a safe environment to restore balance. In the case of Liwonde, the first step was to fence off the national park to secure the remaining wildlife populations and reduce the incidence of human-wildlife conflict. Naturally, investment in infrastructure brought two-fold benefits: the return of tourists and increased capacity for security enforcement and counter-poaching initiatives. The construction of a ranger training centre provided a facility critical to the training of rangers for parks throughout Malawi.

With a history of evictions and decades of human-wildlife conflict, building a relationship between surrounding communities and the park was the next essential step. No protected area can flourish at the expense of, or without benefiting, its human neighbours and this has always been a fundamental tenant of the African Parks’ philosophy. Education forms a core part of this community development strategy, and today, Liwonde supports two local schools and provides several scholarships. Children are regularly taken for guided tours of the park to learn more about wildlife, conservation, and their country’s natural heritage.

With a newly devised tourism plan in place and the park secure, it was time to bring the animals back.

The march of Malawi’s elephants

No matter how resilient nature may be, a helping hand is often necessary to reverse local extinctions of specific iconic species. African Parks is responsible for managing multiple parks across much of the continent. However, the organisation has a robust presence in Malawi, managing four separate parks: Majete Wildlife Reserve, Mangochi Forest Reserve, Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve and Liwonde National Park. This allows for a cohesive and adaptive management strategy for wildlife populations and for each park’s success to benefit the rest of the country.

In the last decade, Malawi has been involved in some of the most ground-breaking animal translocations in the world. Some founder populations of different species have often made a cross-continental journey from other countries, especially South Africa. However, burgeoning elephant populations in Majete and Liwonde have been used to bolster local elephant numbers in both Nkhotakota, Nyika National Park and, more recently, Kasungu National Park. These enormous undertakings have seen hundreds of elephants translocated safely across the country.

The Big 5 (and others) return to Liwonde

While elephant numbers in Liwonde were historically stable, other wildlife was not quite as fortunate. Cheetahs were the first large predators to be reintroduced after around a century’s absence. The first cheetahs arrived from South Africa in 2017, followed by ten lions sourced from South Africa and Majete a year later. 2021 saw the historical return of wild dogs (African painted wolves) to both Majete and Liwonde. Though the intention was that Liwonde would receive a pack of eight of these endangered carnivores, one of the females was pregnant, and the pack welcomed nine pups six weeks later – the first litter of wild dogs born in Malawi in decades! But in a tragic occurrence in November 2022, 14 wild dogs from this pack were poisoned.

The now thriving ecosystems support massive herds of over a thousand buffalo, and Liwonde is one of the best places in Africa to see the endangered sable antelope. Black rhinos have been translocated from South Africa to supplement the remaining population, and interchanges with individuals from Majete has helped keep rhino genetics suitably diverse.

One welcome consequence of increasing terrestrial predators was the return of aerial scavengers. When African Parks took over the park in 2015, vultures were absent. Today, management teams have recorded hundreds of sightings of at least six vulture species. Birding in Liwonde is exceptional all year round – with over 460 species recorded, including Lillian’s love birds, Pel’s fishing owls, Boehm’s bee-eaters, and Livingstone’s flycatchers as highlights for avid birders.

Mangochi Forest Reserve

In 2018, Mangochi Forest Reserve, contiguous with Liwonde’s north-eastern border, became the fourth Malawian reserve to fall under African Parks’ mandate. This increased the organisation’s footprint in the region by 60% and brought the total area under their protection to 906km² of continuous wilderness. This undulating landscape of ancient forest is a critical ecological extension of Liwonde, serving as an important water catchment and dispersal area for elephants and other species.

As in Liwonde, Mangochi’s mammal populations have suffered in recent decades, but there is a small breeding population of leopards, and over 543 bird species have been recorded in the forest. African Parks has constructed four fenced camps within the national park, increased the road network and is erecting a fence around the entire perimeter of Mangochi. They intend to extend the same law enforcement, habitat management, community engagement and socio-economic development as employed in Liwonde National Park.

Explore & stay

The best time to visit Liwonde is during the dry season, from April to October. As the park is dry, wildlife clusters around the remaining water of the river systems. However, the rainy season offers its advantages. When the first thunderstorms darken the November nights, the bushveld transforms from a veritable dustbowl to an emerald-green paradise.

As one of Africa’s better-kept secrets, the Liwonde experience is incredible value for money, with budget to high-end accommodation options available. For those seeking a self-catering experience in a bush camp, Chimwala Bush Camp is an ideal destination.

Learn more about Chimwala Bush Camp here:

Wildlife sightings are as impressive as those of more renowned destinations in Africa. Floating down the Shire River on a boat safari, watching elephants feed in dense reedbeds, is somewhat reminiscent of a Botswanan safari – at a fraction of the price. Even better, the paradise beaches of Lake Malawi are just a short distance away, making Liwonde a perfect stop on a bush-beach vacation.

Find out about Liwonde for your next African safari. We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or ask us to build one just for you.

Living Liwonde

Malawi is rapidly establishing itself as both an up-and-coming tourism destination, as well as a conservation role model for the continent. Liwonde is a shining example of how a land desecrated by decades of misuse can be transformed into a wild paradise. The change wrought in just a few short years symbolises hope for not just Liwonde, but many of Africa’s struggling wild spaces.

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 7

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week

I spy with my little eye, something beginning with “L”. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Andrew Skinner

It never rains, but it pours. A bad feather day for a spotted eagle-owl after a heavy storm at Piper Pan. Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana. © Christo Giliomee

The uncanny feline ability to make even a leadwood tree look comfortable. Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Cindee Beechwood

Whoops. A tiny terrapin slips from the grasp of a juvenile pale chanting goshawk. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Gerrie Rall

Making Rudyard Kipling proud. A yellow mongoose shows off its best Rikki-Tikki-Tavi moves in a showdown with a Cape cobra. Nossob Camp, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa. © Greg Ewing

In the cold Atlantic kelp forest, a compass jellyfish (*Chrysaora sp.*) floats like a butterfly and stings like a bee. Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa. © Gunnar Oberhoesel

Icons. “Because of Craig’s placid temperament, the Maasai people allow him to wander unhindered through their land. They will go out in the mornings and locate him so that they can take tourists to see him.” Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Hesté de Beer

THIS WEEK

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Inspiring images + wild horses on the brink

Covid reared its head in my life a few weeks ago during my Rwanda exploration. My symptoms were mild – nothing more than a head cold. I am triple-vaxxed and in decent physical shape, which probably contributed to my personal experience. Based on reactions from hotel staff and fellow travellers and the lack of Covid-related processes at airports, the world has moved on (with a few exceptions) and now treats Covid like any other virus. My personal choice to isolate for 4 days and wear a mask in public was a surprise to most people that I encountered.

Thanks to those that have responded to my call last week for population stats for free-roaming lions that are subjected to trophy hunting. Stand by – an article is in the works. Perhaps now that the UK has banned the import of hunting trophies (for better or worse), the trophy hunting heavy hitters will focus on ridding the industry of the rotten eggs that are driving it to extinction. Either way, teamAG will continue to drive for transparency and accountability.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Are you yearning for a tropical beach escape or aching to explore one of Africa’s hidden safari gems? Start the conversation with our travel experts, and we will help to bring your dreams to life.

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Visitors to Zambia’s vast Kafue National Park are treated to magnificent displays of Africa at its most spectacular through the miombo woodlands and across verdant floodplains. Explore this extraordinary wilderness and its waterways over several days, encountering the park’s abundant wildlife along the way. For the discerning traveller looking to experience one of the continent’s best-kept secrets, our packages showcase the best that Kafue has to offer.

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that the Namib Desert horses have one of the lowest genetic variations of any feral or domestic horse population? This is not a criticism, but another complication to an already fraught reality as each subsequent drought threatens another genetic bottleneck. With numbers dwindling and conflict with predators on the rise, their situation is perilous.

This week, our guest opinion editorial by Ron Swilling delves into the complexities of Namibia’s “wild” horses. She explores her own emotional connection to the horses, as well as their intimate ties to Namibian history and tourism and their impact on indigenous wildlife (and visa versa). Read her thoughts in our first story below, and let us know what you think.

This week’s Photographer of the Year gallery features several artistic celebrations of Africa’s renowned displays of light and shadow, along with some genetic quirks of nature. From heart-stopping glances to snapshots of terror, our entrants never fail to amaze. Oh, and there’s also one giraffe with an identity crisis. Go on, have a look!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/namibias-wild-desert-horses/
NAMIBIA’S DESERT HORSES
The fate of the Namib’s wild desert horses is uncertain. There are no easy answers when weighing up their role in Namibian tourism & wildlife

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-6/
STUNNING SNAPSHOTS
Photographer of the Year 2023 entries for Week 6 are here! Enter for a chance to win your share of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari

WATCH: An incredibly rare sighting of Ethiopian wolves harassing and chasing away a pair of honey badgers that had ventured too close to the wolves’ den site (02:03). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 6

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week

Something on your mind? The contemplative, sentient gaze of an endangered mountain gorilla. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda. © Tomasz Szpila

“When we visit the Maasai Mara, I make a point out of getting out early for sunrise near the Mara River. It’s a magical spot, especially if you can find a good foreground for sunrise.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Bill Klipp

Nature’s spotlight. The last rays of the setting sun beautify an already bewitching young leopard. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Danie Hattingh

A brief, familial staredown between two blood-stained African wild dogs (painted wolves) after an impala meal. Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe. © Dylan Lee

We told you so…An unpleasant surprise for a teenage male lion unable to resist the urges of his appetite. “The young lion was fortunate that the crocodile seemed to be more interested in the hippo carcass and not too interested in him.” Khwai Private Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Ernest Porter

A steely-eyed lion joins his brothers-in-arms at a buffalo feast. Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Tomasz Szpila

A moment of peace. “We spotted a couple of bull elephants drinking at a waterhole. I liked the way the water was backlit by the sun, and decided to make the focus of the photo the tusk and water.” Sabi Sands Game Reserve, South Africa. © Karen Blackwood

Silhouettes and sunsets. The vast open plains of Nxai Pans create panoramic twilight experiences. Nxai Pans National Park, Botswana. © Christo Giliomee

For young leopards, descending a tall tree head-first is an intimidating prospect. For some, a more comforting approach is to reverse down and perform a nimble twist just above the ground. Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana. © Thomas Retterath

A wildcat kitten’s first glimpses of the world awaiting it. The image was taken on a 600mm lens with a 2x teleconverter, allowing the photographer to capture the moment without disturbing the mother or her vulnerable offspring. “I stopped there every day for a week and waited for the little one to come out of the hole.” Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Hannes Lochner

“This morning, the light was just right, and I was able to capture this handsome side-striped jackal moving through the grass, looking for prey.” Liwonde National Park, Malawi. © Daniel Badger

On the brink: Namibia’s wild desert horses

On the golden sands of Africa’s ancient Namib Desert in southwestern Namibia, a small century-old population of wild desert horses fights for survival. A corrugated track leads from the main road between Aus and Lüderitz to the Garub hide, overlooking the gravel plains and the waterhole where the horses come to drink. The expanse of dry land is punctuated by the Dikke Willem inselberg and fringed by a series of tawny-coloured rocky hills.

Around the waterhole, narrow ribbons are etched on the sand from years of hoofbeats drumming on the earth. My heart skips along like an excited child. It has become my custom over the last ten years to leave the comfort of my tent at first light to reach the hide by sunrise, where I boil water for coffee on my small gas cooker to warm up from the winter chill, blow on my gloved hands, pull my jacket close to my body and wait for the horses to appear.

The sun peeps from the horizon. And, as if on cue, I catch my first glimpse of a small group of horses in the distance moving towards the waterhole. The wind whips their tangled manes, and dust explodes in puffs as their hooves hit the sand. Nearing the water, they break into a trot and then a gallop. Other groups of horses appear and repeat the performance. I watch the dynamics between them as they meet with greeting rituals and sometimes with a snort and a kick. Taking cover next to the hide to stay out of the wind, I sit in the presence of the horses. As the sun warms their rumps, I soak up the tranquillity of being among some of the last wild equids in Africa.

A herd of Namibia’s wild horses gather at a waterhole at Garub

The extreme elements do not threaten the Namib’s wild horses this time. The cyclic years of drought and abundance are part of life in the desert. This time it is a clan of spotted hyenas targeting the foals one by one, gradually decimating the population and threatening to end the intriguing history of the wild horses, one of southern Namibia’s tourist attractions.

The early morning scene at Garub is one that I have come to cherish through years of research on these horses. The isolated populations of wild horses that grace virtually every continent of the world originate from domesticated horses that have regained their freedom, except the Mongolian wild horse. Very few horses ever have the chance to live naturally – forming bonds, finding partners and being part of cohesive family groups, possibly because wild horses tug at our heartstrings. This is particularly true of the resilient horses that have made their home in the unlikely landscape of the Namib Desert.

The Namib horses are descended from the Kubub stud farm breeding horses, established at the beginning of the twentieth century, only 35km from where they are today. The farm was abandoned during World War One, leaving the unfenced and ownerless horses to follow the grazing. They gradually made their way to Garub, where there was a constant supply of borehole water for the steam trains. Over the years, the desert conditions and droughts kept their numbers low, at around two hundred horses, in proportion to the capacity of the land – and kept their gene pool strong.

According to Dr Telané Greyling, who studied the behaviour of the Namib wild horses extensively and monitored them continuously for 28 years, the Namib horses adapted their behaviour to ensure their survival in the desert, allowing a certain amount of dehydration. This condition would severely stress a domesticated horse.

wild desert horses — The Namib horses are descended from the breeding horses of Kubub stud farm, established at the beginning of the twentieth century

Initially, the wild horses were protected in the restricted diamond-mining area, the Sperrgebiet, only entering the public arena when sections of the Sperrgebiet became part of Namib-Naukluft Park in the late-70s and -80s. By then, they had lived as a wild population in the desert for more than fifty years. As a game-proof fence, erected on the eastern boundary of the desert in the late 1980s, thwarts the horses’ ability to move inland to find water, they remain in the vicinity of the Garub waterhole, which they visit every two to three days to drink, depending on the weather and the proximity of the grazing.

When the Garub hide was built in 1993, visiting the wild horses became one of the highlights of passing through southern Namibia for many a traveller. Images of the horses were increasingly used in marketing Namibia as a wild, free and rugged destination. In 2012, a group of individuals from the safari tourism, veterinary, environmental management and environmental research sectors established the Namib Wild Horses Foundation. The foundation was set up to monitor the population and assist the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) in managing the horses, coordinating support for the horses’ long-term sustainability and administering funds from public donations for supplementary feed in times of drought.

At the time of the foundation’s establishment, the desert was experiencing years of above-average rainfall – but a period of drought would soon follow. The drought brought an additional unprecedented threat to the wild-horse population: the appearance of a clan of spotted hyenas drawn to the easily accessible food source.

The wild horses cut a striking image against the Namib Desert backdrop

Until then, hyenas had occasionally passed through the area preying on a foal or weakened horse but didn’t pose a major threat to the population. That changed in 2010 when individuals dispersed from another clan further north and moved into the area around Garub, establishing a new clan. Between 2013 and 2018, not a single foal survived. In 2013 alone, nearly a hundred horses were killed, fifty of them foals. The numbers of the wild horse population plummeted by more than half. The foundation began a series of talks with MEFT to look for solutions to safeguard the future of the population. But without immediate action, the wild horse population nosedived from 286 to a mere 74 horses.

While the humans were locked in discussions, nothing changed at Garub and horse numbers continued to drop.

In 2017, the foundation was granted permission to feed the hyenas as a short-term solution to draw them away from the horses, which it did until the drought broke in 2018. After a short reprieve by the hyenas turning their attention to domestic animals on nearby farms, they began to target the horses again.

In December 2018, when the situation seemed irrevocable, MEFT agreed to capture the hyenas and relocate them to a different area. They also released an official statement acknowledging the Namib horses as a national heritage and an essential asset for tourism, undertaking to ensure their survival.

wild horses — Young foals are easy prey for hyenas

After unsuccessful attempts to dart the hyenas, the ministry eliminated several animals. In a public meeting held at the end of February 2019, attended by various parties, including predator-interest groups, there was a consensus that the situation could have been averted had it been dealt with and managed before it reached crisis point. MEFT then drew up a management plan for the horse population.

These events silenced the issues for several years until the hyenas started again preying on the foals. And with the horses out of the limelight, the public must be aware that the point of no return is fast approaching. The handful witnessing the population’s demise are losing hope that it will recover with the absence of new foals and the diminishing number of breeding mares.

But, the ray of light remains that the population will still stand a chance of survival if action is taken now. Many believe the clan of hyenas should be relocated. In contrast, others believe the horses should be moved to private land, where they can remain a national treasure and tourist attraction. Both solutions require a green light from MEFT. Until then, as the horses reside in a national park, the fate of the Namib horses hangs in the balance.

On leaving the hide this time, I realise with a sudden pang that although several foals have been born over the summer rainfall months, I haven’t seen a single one in my hours at the hide. I feel a deep sadness wash over me, knowing that this may be one of my last chances to see the Namib horses unless the various stakeholders can work together to find a reasonable outcome that is not merely put down on paper, but followed through with immediate and effective action.

The disappearance of the Namib wild horses would leave an empty blot in the desert where once people entertained magic and magnificence. And the safari industry, too, would feel the loss if these popular icons were to disappear.

Find out about Namibia for your next African safari (select ‘Namibia’ from the country list), find a ready-made safari or ask us to build one just for you.

Editorial note: The opinions offered above are the author’s own. Much debate has evolved from the issues surrounding Namibia’s wild desert horses and to what extent conservation authorities should intervene between endemic wildlife and “feral” animals. What are your thoughts? Share your comments on this story by logging into our app.

Private rhino – the importance of private sector rhino conservation

Private landowners in South Africa now collectively support the largest population of white rhinos on the African continent. More than half of the continent’s rhinos are in private hands. This was the inevitable outcome of declining wild populations and increasing numbers of rhino found on private land. It brings into stark relief the importance of the private sector in rhino conservation. Given the rising costs associated with protecting rhinos, what will it take to build resilience in the private industry?

A new study published in Frontiers examines the contribution of private and communal land to rhino conservation as well as the financial and policy implications of such an arrangement. The authors also outline the policies necessary to create a secure environment for private conservation, including decision-making around trade, hunting and management.

Private contributions to rhino

Across the continent, over half of Africa’s white and a third of its black rhino occurred on private land in 2021. An additional 5% of the continent’s black rhino were held on communal land in Namibia and South Africa.

Despite having suffered considerable poaching losses, South Africa remains home to the largest number of white rhino (81%) on the continent, as well as around a third of the remaining black rhino. However, the focus of poaching on state-run parks such as the Kruger National Park and Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park has resulted in a steady decline in wild rhino on state land. At the same time, the number of rhinos on private land has increased. Consequently, the proportion of the country’s white rhinos on private land has shifted from 25% in 2010 to 53% in 2021.

Data from other rhino range states, such as Zimbabwe and Namibia, also indicates a similar trend. Private lands in Zimbabwe now hold 88% and 76% of the country’s black and white rhino, respectively. 75% of Namibia’s white rhinos are found on private land, while 27% of its black rhinos are on private land, and 7% are in community conservancies.

Costs and incentives

Previous research showed that, on average, private properties spent approximately US$2,200 per animal on security in 2017, amounting to a cost of over US$100,000 per property on average for that year. More recently, this security cost increased substantially – some 50% in only three years. International trade in rhino horn is banned, and the price of live white rhinos sold at auction has declined 75% over the last decade. Furthermore, private and communal landowners receive no direct state funding to support their enterprise or the cost of securing their animals. Consequently, private ownership of rhinos (or land hosting them) has become considerably less attractive.

Without any constitutional mandate to protect these rhinos, some landowners are simply disinvesting. This is not yet a significant trend for private custodians (some are even growing their herds and investing in more rhino), but this may be due to the hope that trade in rhino horn will eventually be legalised. If this reality does not materialise, large-scale disinvestment seems likely.

Furthermore, keeping intensively managed populations (fed and kept at higher-than-natural densities) may prove the more practical (financially and otherwise) strategy in keeping captive rhinos safe. These kinds of captive populations cannot maintain natural breeding or evolutionary processes and do not contribute to ecosystem function.

A new path for rhino?

Future policies must identify ways to incentivise private rhino ownership to compensate for rising security costs. The authors acknowledge that the trade in rhino horn could theoretically provide such an incentive. However, they emphasise the need for context-specific research that takes into account the complexities of the issues at play. They also indicate that trophy hunting is a crucial revenue source in funding protection, which could be hampered by the growing international pressure to ban trophy hunting. In terms of both trade and hunting, the researchers highlight the need for consideration of local contexts.

Given the potential for increasing emphasis on intensive farming systems, there also needs to be additional incentives for extensive systems where the captive animals lead more natural lives. These might include implementing a more favourable tax structure or eligibility for carbon credits or “rhino bonds”. Crowdfunded donations linked to conservation performance are also a possibility.

“If additional incentives are not enabled, we risk losing private and communal rhino custodians, and with them, half of the remaining African rhinos”, concludes lead author Dr Hayley Clements.

In February 2023, the owner of the world’s largest private rhino farm, John Hume, announced that his Platinum Rhino farm, home to close to 2,000 rhino, would be auctioned in April. His press release cited rising security costs as the reason for the sale.

Reference

Clements, H. S., Balfour, D. and Di Minin, E. (2023) “Importance of Private and Communal Lands to Sustainable Conservation of Africa’s Rhinoceroses,” Frontiers in Ecology and the Environment, (20230109)

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 5

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week

The Midas touch. The warm sunrise light transforms this spotted hyena’s ablutions into a bath of gold. Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania. © Andrei Mihalca

It’s a cat-eat-cat world out there. An eight-month-old leopard cub drags a caracal – killed by its mother – to a tree and attempts to hoist it. “A once-in-a-lifetime sighting, very special.” Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Marc Mol

Portrait of a predator. “On this occasion, I was able to get my camera very low and catch this awesome shot of a Hyena on Liuwa Plain. Here, they are the apex predators.” Liuwa Plain National Park, Zambia. © Andrew Macdonald

The diving crossbody. Two heavyweights slug it out during the short-lived desert breeding season. The blue colour of these African bullfrogs’ eyes is due to the nictitating membrane, which protects their eyes during their wrestling match. Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana. © Christian Passeri

Iron jaws made gentle by motherhood as a leopardess transports her precious cargo. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © David Chen

Bath time. A lifetime of firsts ahead for this newborn elephant. Senyati, Chobe National Park, Botswana. © Dawie Maree

Love lifts us up where we belong. The death-defying mating process of dragonflies. Zuka Private Game Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. © Dominic Cruz

The iconic scenes of dry season Etosha. Etosha National Park, Namibia. © Geir Olaf Gjerden

A large male leopard stares down the photographer as evening falls, slinking over the massive limb of a fallen tree. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Marc Mol

The golden gaze of a critically endangered Grauer’s gorilla (eastern lowland gorilla – *Gorilla beringei graueri*). One of the last remaining populations of eastern lowland gorillas is found in Kahuzi-Biéga National Park in the eastern Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). “The current civil war situation in the Eastern DRC and uncontrolled forest destruction make this gorilla’s situation desperate!” Kahuzi-Biéga National Park, Democratic Republic of the Congo. © Hesté de Beer

Go on, try it. I dare you. A wounded bull in the swamps of the Okavango Delta. Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Jack Swynnerton

Dancing with myself. The distinctive sky-blue bill and head shield of the African jacana is well worth admiring. Chobe River, Namibia. © Luigi Carta

A leisurely lunch for a contented lion cub of the Savuti Marsh Pride. Savuti region, Chobe National Park, Botswana. © Andrew Skinner

Peek-a-boo. A male lion ducks in and out of sight, peeping over the head of his subadult son. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Marc Mol

“Currently engaged in a lengthy territorial takeover, these brothers are on high alert.” South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. © Michael Davy

Crunch time for an unfortunate tortoise. © Muriel Moreau

Clash of the Titans. Two rhino bulls vie for dominance in a battle that could last for days. South Africa. © Nico Nel

A leopard cub taking lessons from its mother on how to strike a picture-perfect pose. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. © Pedro Amaral

The floor is lava. A lone flamingo wades across the inhospitable, alkaline waters of Lake Magadi, which are painted in shades of red by colourful algae. Lake Magadi, Kenya. © Silke Hullmann

A fragile baby gorilla, weighing less than 2kg, safely enfolded in its mother’s arms. Populations of the endangered mountain gorilla are steadily increasing and this little gorilla born to the Nshongi family is another valuable addition. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda. © Tomasz Szpila

Africa’s iconic giants. Super tusker Craig poses in front of Mount Kilimanjaro. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Vicki Jauron

Shades of grey. A white rhino calf protected against the bulk of its mother. Nairobi National Park, Kenya. © Vicki Jauron

Kill bill. Two African open-billed storks put their reflexes to the test in a skirmish over snails. Katavi National Park, Tanzania. © Wim Uyttenbroeck

THIS WEEK

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Epic pics + big cat safari

I have just arrived at my guesthouse bordering Nyungwe National Park in southwest Rwanda – looking forward to exploring these ancient primal forests as a guest of African Parks.

Amongst other exciting activities we will be visiting the site where African Parks is building a midrange camp deep in the forest, due to be opened in Q1, 2024. This forms part of our Ukuri partnership with AP that kicks off midyear. Our other Nyungwe plans in the coming four days include chimp trekking, seeking out some of Africa’s most sought-after avian candy (did anyone mention Shelley’s crimsonwing?) and braving the thrilling Canopy Walkway for a top-down view of Afromontane rainforest.

Rwanda is so clean, so well-run and her people so welcoming – what an incredible example to all of what can de done after that tumultuous history! If you are ever in Kigali, make sure to include the Genocide Memorial in your plans – take tissues. #Respect

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Our scientific editor Jamie recently spent six days searching for the renowned leopards of Sabi Sands, sharing her love of the reserve and its inhabitants with fellow leopard lovers on an AG safari. The safari was a bonanza of epic leopard sightings, filled with laughs and the rejuvenation that can only come from time spent in the bushveld. Jamie shares the magical moments from this safari in our first story below. If this has you longing for time in the bush, why not join Jamie for the next one?

The entries for Photographer of the Year are streaming in, and we’re beyond impressed with the quality of this year’s images. This week’s gallery features Amboseli’s giants, elegant snakes in the moorlands of Mount Kenya and the forests of Pongola, intricate portraits of smaller creatures such as tree agamas and mantises, and some striking landscape shots starring the mighty cats of the Maasai Mara. Enjoy the gallery in our second story below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/a-sabi-sands-leopard-safari/
BIG CAT SAFARI
Jamie Paterson spends time with the famous leopards of Sabi Sands Game Reserve, Greater Kruger, on a specialised leopard safari

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-4/
STUNNING PICS
Photographer of the Year 2023 entries for Week 4 are here! Enter for a chance to win your share of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Concerning reports of declining great white shark numbers off the Western Cape coast have been around for years, but the reasons behind the disappearance of our beleaguered sharks remain contested. There are, however, suspects. In case you haven’t heard, a pair of orcas lurking in our waters appear to be specialist shark hunters. Nicknamed Port and Starboard, the two whales are famous for their killer ways and distinctive modus operandi of consuming the oil-rich livers of their prey.

Did you know that Port and Starboard were recently implicated in the deaths of at least 17 sharks in a single day? The carcasses of the female seven-gill sharks washed ashore on Pearly Beach in Gansbaai, devoid of their livers. This is the pair’s largest killing spree to date.

However, whether or not the orcas are solely to blame for declining shark numbers has yet to be conclusively proven. Of course, it is far easier to blame a natural event than to suggest that the actions of fisheries (through depleted food resources, longline fishing and so on) may also be playing a substantial role…

WATCH: Save The Elephants recently shared this rare footage of a critically endangered wild forest elephant, fleeing a technologically generated bee sound in Liberia. The video shows the elephant’s reaction as the buzz of bees fills the air. This video captures a conservation victory: the Buzz Box tool, developed by Wildlife Survivors, is proving effective in safely steering elephants away from farms by emitting the sound of agitated bees – preventing incidents of human-wildlife conflict (01:13). Click here to watch

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 4

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Here are the best Photographer of the Year submissions for this week

Pucker up, sweet cheeks. After a long day of foraging, a meerkat family engages in some canoodling before heading into their den for the night. Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, Botswana. © Daniela Anger

“We followed this mother elephant and her calf for a while – they were very relaxed around our car. In the late afternoon, before returning to the escarpment for the night, they grazed on the plains with Mount Kilimanjaro forming the perfect backdrop.” Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Silke Hullmann

A portrait of the endemic Kenya montane viper in the high-altitude moorlands of Mount Kenya. Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

A sizable eland bull, shrouded in oxpeckers, approaches the waterhole with caution, alert and on the lookout for trouble. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Kevin Dooley

In a riot of lustrous green, a spotted bush snake peers out from the undergrowth. Pongola, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. © Gerrie Rall

Evening shower. An elephant quenches its thirst and cools down after a day of soaring temperatures. Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda. © Byamugisha Hillary

A giant kingfisher emerges from the water with a snack. Intaka Island wetlands, Western Cape, South Africa. © Christo Giliomee

Spiny flower mantis in garland pose. “I visited the Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve, knowing there are a couple of spots where one can find these little creatures. My luck was in and I photographed a few mantises in a variety of colours.” Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve, Durban, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa. © Hendrik Louw

A colourful southern tree agama basks in a sliver of sun, his cobalt-blue scales iridescent in the light. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Joschka Voss

“We were birding in the forests of Kibale National Park when we stumbled upon this chimpanzee, an alpha male. He was relaxed and gave us some wonderful poses whilst taking a break from his troop. He then followed this with a threat display.” Kibale Forest, Uganda. © Carrie Van Reenen Mostert

A young elephant shows affection to its mother, snuggling up close. Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa. © Kevin Dooley

Lone cheetah awaiting the storm. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Luigi Carta

A lioness, one half of a mating pair on honeymoon, awakens from her slumber with a big yawn. Shortly after this photograph was taken, she sauntered over the rocks to awaken her partner. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Preeti John Chacko

A Sabi Sands leopard safari

As I passed beneath the arches of Gowrie Gate into the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, I was hit by an unexpected wave of overwhelming nostalgia. The reserve had been my home on and off for nearly five years, and every second tree and termite mound brought back another precious memory. But nostalgia rapidly turned to excitement when I remembered my purpose for this visit – six days of glorious exploration lay ahead, a chance to share my love for the reserve and its inhabitants with my special group of guests partaking in this Africa Geographic leopard safari.

Summer loving

January can be a tricky month for Lowveld safaris. The vegetation is lush and dense, water is plentiful, and tracking is almost impossible in places. It is often hot and humid, prey species disperse, and predators either cover huge distances at night or are comatose in the shade during the day. Of course, there are rich compensations for these minor challenges: the glorious contrasts of green and gold, baby animals finding their feet around every corner and the cheerful call of the woodland kingfishers providing the crack of dawn trill. It is a magnificent time to visit the bushveld for genuine nature lovers. Fortunately, ours was a group of well-seasoned safari-goers with enough experience and insight to appreciate the majesty of the unfolding summer.

leopard safari — The gang’s all here – our little group in the expert company of Ralph and Chris from Jaci’s Sabi House.

Our bushveld retreat

One of the highlights of this exclusive safari was having our lodge – Jaci’s Sabi House – all to ourselves. This meant we had complete control of the schedule. Want to enjoy the cool mornings? No problem, we just shifted our start time even earlier, departing at 5.00 am and returning only when the heat and hungry bellies finally chased us back to the refuge of the lodge. Similarly, afternoon drives started as early as the temperatures allowed. It was a pleasure to find myself in the company of like-minded individuals, and all thoughts of sundowners were abandoned in favour of letting the Sabi Sands work its magic. (To start planning your African safari to Sabi Sands, click here).

Want to go on a leopard safari with Jamie to Sabi Sands? Click here and follow the prompts to enquire.

Why waste a moment of that potential? By the time we arrived at the lodge each night, the day’s excitement had made the already delicious three-course meals taste like heaven on earth. We ate beneath the star-spangled sky, serenaded by roaring lions and the iconic whoops of spotted hyenas.

We enjoyed our scrumptious brunches on the lodge deck overlooking the dam, and on one occasion, we were interrupted by the appearance of elephants at the water’s edge. In ones and twos, they emerged from the treeline, doing the excited elephant “water walk” and swinging their trunks in anticipation. Soon, the waterhole was surrounded, and elephants everywhere were drinking, playing or greeting each other with low rumbles. The last of the bacon was abandoned as we watched, mesmerised, before they melted back into the vegetation, leaving the very affronted family of Egyptian geese in peace.

Leopard, leopard everywhere

Not for nothing is the Sabi Sands considered one of the leopard capitals of Africa, and it certainly lived up to its reputation for our leopard safari. We saw four different leopards over the six-day sojourn, and nearly every drive delivered a rosetted pelage for our indulgence. Yet the quality of these sightings, not the quantity, made the experience truly special. (It is worth mentioning this was due in part to the patience of our wonderful guests, who were happy to wait for the sleepy cats to move rather than barrel around from sighting to sighting.)

The stars of our trip were two young leopards – a female called Langa (“sun”) and a male known as Maribye (“rocks”). Both are on the cusp of maturity, with Langa set to carve out her territory and Maribye soon to begin the dangerous business of dispersal in search of a space of his own. From a viewing perspective, this is a wonderful age because young leopards are still full of energy and personality, capable predators but still learning the vital rules of survival.

Langa impressed us with her poise, focus and uncanny ability to strike the perfect pose for our eager photographers. However, her dignity was decidedly ruffled when she was chased up a skinny apple-leaf tree by two very determined hyenas. We could hardly believe it when the situation repeated itself two days later, though she sought refuge in a rather uncomfortable-looking russet bushwillow this time around.

By contrast, Maribye was insouciant, bordering on comical. His belly was perpetually full (probably due to the seasonal influx of impala lambs), but he still entertained us by pouncing on emerging termite alates one evening. On another hot afternoon, we found him lying on the damp mud on the side of the road, presumably trying to cool off somewhat. He then led us into a nearby drainage line where he had stashed his latest meal. Following this, he treated everyone to a display of the renowned leopard agility by leaping from bough to bough of a jackalberry tree towering over our vehicle.

Our trip also yielded two different wild dog (painted wolf) encounters – both accompanied by the usual chaos in trying to keep up with these athletic predators

In between our leopard sightings, we were diverted by several performances from the supporting cast of Sabi Sand mammals, birds, insects and reptiles. These included a zebra stallion chasing a pack of wild dogs (known affectionately as the “6-pack”) and several brand-new elephant calves, still pink about the ears. Other highlights were a herd of mud-splattered buffalo, one determined fork-tailed drongo intent on scalping a distinctly miffed brown snake eagle, and two directionally confused teenage elephants.

A fish eagle takes flight during a pleasant hour spent bird watching at one of the region’s larger waterholes

Walking on sunshine

And just like that, the six days of our leopard safari that had stretched ahead of me when I arrived were over and done, and it was time to bid my guests farewell. This I did with no small degree of regret – time spent in the bushveld is always a great bonding experience, and the long hours driving through the reserve had provided countless opportunities for fascinating conversation. In the heart of Sabi Sands, we spoke about everything from conservation and politics to the state of the world and our hopes for the future. But for the most part, we were light-hearted and cheerful, entertained by our in-jokes and sheltered by the bubble of the wilderness around us, the perfect soul-refresher ahead of a new year.

“No wait, please don’t take a photograph, I’m still chewing my breakfast…”

THIS WEEK

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Cheetahs to India + best pics + Mara safari

I am deep within Rwanda’s stunning Akagera National Park on a journey of discovery; prepping for Ukuri – our upcoming partnership with African Parks. Ukuri means ‘truth’ or ‘authentic’ in the Kinyarwanda language spoken across Central and East Africa. Next stop is breathtaking Nyungwe National Park!

A huge thanks to those who have registered to be advised once we go live with Ukuri. It would appear that the appetite for reasonably priced responsible safaris is healthy. If you are hearing about this for the first time, please read my editorial of last week.

Two quotes resonated with me this past week; perhaps they do so for you?

“Facts don’t care about your feelings” – Ben Shapiro
“As scary as it gets it’s just turbulence” – Pink

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

MAASAI MARA MIGRATION SEASON – 7 days – From US$4,585pps
Experience the Great Wildebeest Migration in Kenya with this carefully crafted itinerary. Stay at Sentinel Mara Camp, perched on the high banks of the Mara River in a cool riverine forest, and explore Musiara Marsh and Paradise Plains – known for their excellent cat sightings.

ART ON SAFARI – 7 days – From ZAR60,150pps
Join this popular art safari in Big 5 Timbavati, Greater Kruger – and hone your skills with professional wildlife artist Alison Nicholls. Soak up the peace of the wild, create art on game drives, and enjoy a peaceful stay at Kambaku Safari Lodge. There are only three spaces left, so don’t hesitate to book!

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

This week I am quite taken with our action-packed Photographer of the Year gallery. There are some fantastic pics: from the image of an airborne hyena bursting out of the battle scene surrounding a giraffe kill (which reminds me of an Inferno-esque Renaissance painting) to various scenes of skirmishes and combat; from displays of showmanship to incredible captures of colour, depth and culture from the continent. See this week’s gallery below.

Our second story is a fascinating and poignant read. The reintroduction of cheetahs to India is dividing conservationists. A second group of southern African cheetahs has just made their journey across the world to Kuno National Park. Is this an ecologically unsound vanity project or a conservation victory for cheetahs, and for Indian ecosystems? Read more in our story.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-3/
EXTRAORDINARY PICS
Photographer of the Year 2023 entries for Week 3 are here! Enter for a chance to win your share of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/a-passage-to-india-how-the-journey-of-southern-africas-cheetah-divided-the-experts/
CHEETAHS TO INDIA
Is the reintroduction of cheetah to India an ecologically unsound vanity project or a conservation win?

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that there are fewer than 12 Asiatic cheetahs (Acinonyx jubatus venaticus) left in the wild? This according to a statement from the Iranian Department of Environment at the start of 2022. A few days ago, the only cub in captivity died of kidney failure.

As I was sifting through the controversy surrounding the translocation of southern African cheetahs to India (which you can read about in our second story below), this fact struck me as unbearably sad. And it was so under-emphasised by the media attention surrounding Project Cheetah.

Asiatic cheetahs are now, for all intents and purposes, extinct – vanished from this planet with barely a ripple of concern. And those conservationists that dedicated their lives to protecting the last of them? Some of them languish in prison, and one has died, because their camera-trap monitoring techniques were decreed “spying” by the Iranian judicial system. Where was their outcry?

WATCH: Farmer Jennifer Cloete farms sheep and goats in the mountains of the Kamiesberg, South Africa. But the wetlands her livestock graze are vulnerable. With the help of Conservation South Africa, farmers like Jennifer are able to find alternative ways to access water when the wetlands need to recover (01:58). Click here to watch

A passage to India – how the journey of southern Africa’s cheetah divided the experts

Cheetah translocation to India — A cheetah bound for India in a South African quarantine facility, prior to translocation

On Saturday, the 18^th of February, 12 more southern African cheetahs landed in India to join eight of their cohorts in Kuno National Park. Theoretically, these trailblazing cheetahs are intended to herald the long-term return of wild cheetahs to India. This project has divided conservationists along academic, ethical and philosophical lines. Critics have labelled the reintroduction “ecologically unsound”, “a vanity project”, and “grossly expensive”. Equally, experts with abundant experience in cheetah conservation have thrown their weight behind the project, highlighting the importance of restoring cheetahs to parts of their historic range and the potential benefits to Indian conservation.

Cheetahs have been extinct in India for over seven decades, but plans for their return have been afoot for many years. The first eight individuals from Namibia (after a period in quarantine) made the journey to Kuno National Park in September 2022. Amid the media furore over Project Cheetah, two groups of highly esteemed scientists – one for and one against – penned their opinions in correspondence published in Nature Ecology & Evolution. Each article neatly summarises the arguments put forward in various publications since the arrival of the first cheetahs. Read together, they highlight the complexities of the issues at play.

The argument against Project Cheetah

The first article, published in December 2022, is titled “Introducing African cheetahs to India is an ill-advised conservation attempt” and was authored by a group of experienced big-cat conservationists and scientists (Gopalaswamy et al., 2022). Many of the authors have been critical of the project since its inception. They argue that the costly plan has the potential to serve as a “distraction” instead of aiding global cheetah conservation.

Though there has yet to be scientific consensus on subspecies divisions, the Cat Classification Task Force of the IUCN Cat Specialist Group recognised four distinct subspecies of cheetah. Of these, the Southeast African cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus jubatus) and the Asiatic cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus venaticus) are relevant to the debate at hand. Before their extinction, the cheetahs found in India would have been Asiatic cheetahs. At present, the only remaining Asiatic cheetahs are found in Iran and are classified as Critically Endangered. In the opinion of Gopalaswamy et al. (2022), there are unknown ecological, disease and genetic risks associated with replacing Asiatic cheetahs with African ones.

The authors indicate that the plan to translocate cheetahs from Africa to India is based on three unsubstantiated claims. The first is that cheetahs have run out of space in Africa, the second is that India has sufficient space and habitat to support a cheetah population, and, finally, that translocations have successfully restored cheetah range in the past.

They cite contemporary research from the Maasai Mara from one of the authors (Dr Femke Broekhuis) that shows that cheetahs utilise disproportionately large home ranges and occur at low population densities. The authors argue that this, along with (presumably) declining cheetah numbers in Africa, makes them unsuitable as a source population for translocations. Based on this research, they also believe that the studies in Kuno National Park for the action plan may have substantially overestimated the carrying capacity. According to the action plan, the calculated carrying capacity was based on a density estimate from Namibia, which Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) suggest is outdated and possibly inaccurate.

The site of the first cheetah translocations – Kuno National Park – is a 748 km² (74,800 hectares) park located just over 300km south of Delhi. It is unfenced and surrounded by densely populated villages and farms. Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) imply that the size and surrounding anthropogenic pressures (along with some 500 feral cattle within the park) make it a poor habitat choice for the cheetahs. Furthermore, they argue that the other destinations named in the action plan for future translocations are equally inappropriate.

Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) also distinguish between “free-ranging” and “fenced-in” cheetahs. Most cheetahs in South Africa and many from Namibia come from smaller fenced reserves. These animals cannot naturally immigrate or emigrate, so the populations must be intensively managed. The cheetahs sourced for the translocations came from such a setup. The authors write that to the best of their knowledge, they know of no reintroduction successes where fenced-in cheetahs have been successfully reintroduced into an unfenced area, even within Africa. They argue that where these fenced-in populations are managed independently without achieving self-sustaining populations, there will be an urgency to find release sites that could “trigger unplanned, hastily executed translocation programmes”.

They write that they anticipate that “adopting such a speculative and unscientific approach will lead to human-cheetah conflicts, death of the introduced cheetahs or both, and will undermine other science-based species recovery efforts, both globally and within India”.

Instead, the scientists call on India to redirect the nearly US$ 60 million total cost of Project Cheetah towards global cheetah conservation efforts, including habitat protection and connectivity and enhancing human-cheetah relations in Iran, Africa, or both. Alternatively, they suggest revising the current action plan to reintroduce cheetahs to India using a “science-based approach” to rigorously assess the policies and methods utilised. The focus should be securing India’s threatened savannahs and grasslands and avoiding the disruption of other ongoing conservation efforts, such as the reintroduction of Asiatic lions.

They conclude that “there is an urgent need for international bodies, such as the IUCN and the wider community of cheetah and carnivore biologists, to re-evaluate the purpose and practice of such intercontinental, large carnivore translocation efforts”.

The argument for Project Cheetah

In response to this correspondence, a group of vets, scientists, ecologists and cheetah conservationists published their dissenting opinion in an article titled “The case for the reintroduction of cheetahs to India” (Tordiffe et al., 2023). Many of the authors have been intimately involved in the project since its inception, and all were involved in the scientific advisement on both the Indian and southern African sides of the operation.

Tordiffe et al. (2023) argue that cheetahs once occupied an ecological niche in India, which has been left vacant since their extinction. They cite previous research showing that the return of carnivores is particularly important in restoring the functional ecology of ecosystems. They suggest that the widespread human-wildlife conflict and poaching that precipitated the extinction of cheetahs in India have since been controlled through legislation and effective enforcement. Furthermore, suitable habitat, prey availability and anthropogenic pressures were thoroughly assessed before selecting Kuno National Park and other protected areas as potential reintroduction sites.

According to the Project Cheetah action plan, approximately 100,000 km² (10 million hectares) of legally protected reserves in India lie within the historic range of the cheetah and could potentially support breeding cheetah populations. Tordiffe et al. (2023) disagree with Gopalaswamy et al.’s (2022) approach of using East African cheetah population densities to estimate the potential carrying capacities of the selected release sites in India. Instead, they suggest that the biomass of suitable prey will determine such densities.

In answer to Gopalaswamy et al.’s (2022) discussion around the Asiatic cheetahs, Tordiffe et al. (2023) point to the IUCN guidelines for population reintroductions. These require that potential source populations have adequate genetic diversity and that removing a determined number of individuals would not compromise the source population. Given the recent announcement by the Iranian Department of Environment that only 12 confirmed Asiatic cheetahs remain, there is no way they could be utilised for this initiative. Instead, Tordiffe et al. (2023) argue that the southern African cheetah population has the greatest documented genetic diversity and is sufficiently large to supply founding individuals without negatively affecting their numbers.

The authors highlight that unpublished data indicates that the managed cheetah metapopulation in southern Africa of around 500 cheetahs is currently growing at a rate of 8.8% per year. These animals occur predominantly on smaller, fenced reserves, and translocation is vital to this metapopulation management. In South Africa alone, population viability analysis indicates that this population could sustain the removal of 29 individuals without detriment. Though they acknowledge that there are still areas in Africa that could theoretically support reintroduced cheetahs, the authors suggest that few of the sites are feasible in reality. They suggest that there are several socioeconomic, cultural and religious differences that contribute to a greater tolerance for large predators in India than in Africa, as evidenced by other large carnivore conservation initiatives in India.

Tordiffe et al. (2023) also refute the suggestion that there have been no successful translocations of “fenced-in” cheetahs into “free-ranging” environments. They cite the release of 22 cheetahs into the unfenced Zambezi Delta in Mozambique in August 2021, along with the release of 36 cheetahs onto Namibian farmlands, including some unfenced properties. With respect to the risk of disease transmission, three of the authors (and other experts) have conducted a comprehensive disease risk analysis. Though most diseases were judged to be of low or very low risk, those deemed medium risk are managed through a combination of vaccination programmes and antiparasitic treatments.

Finally, the response concedes that the suggestion by Gopalaswamy et al. (2022) that money for the project might be better invested in other cheetah conservation initiatives is “intriguing”. However, the authors suggest that this is unlikely, given that governments tend to prioritise conservation projects in their own jurisdictions.

Though Tordiffe et al. (2023) highlight the cheetahs’ potential role as an umbrella species that will benefit the “broader biodiversity conservation and livelihood goals in India”, they acknowledge that this must be evaluated once the project is completed.

The team on the ground in Kuno National Park

Final thoughts

On the 26^th of January 2023, the South African Department of Forestry, Fisheries and the Environment confirmed that India and South Africa had signed a Memorandum of Understanding. Under the terms of the MoU, 100 more cheetahs will be translocated to India over the next ten years to establish a healthy and diverse population. At the outset, there are likely to be significant losses. If the project is successful, it will likely be counted as one of the most daring conservation initiatives of the 21^st century. And more importantly, cheetahs will once again stalk the grasslands and savannahs of India. If it fails, the cheetah will die, millions of dollars will be lost, and the project will be consigned to the learning curve of history.

Few meaningful conservation initiatives could ever be labelled as risk-free. With ever-shrinking wild spaces and changing climates, conservation is facing a turning point. Considered interference and substantial risks may be necessary to protect the earth’s remaining megafauna and reverse the mistakes of the past. But with these decisions will come complex ethical debates that cut to the heart of the intrinsic value of an animal, the definition of “natural”, the importance of genetics and the balance of utilitarianism. There are unlikely to be easy answers or universal agreement.

References

Gopalaswamy, A. M. et al. (2022) “Introducing African Cheetahs to India Is an Ill-Advised Conservation Attempt,” Nature Ecology & Evolution

Tordiffe, A.S.W. et al. (2023) “The case for the reintroduction of cheetahs to India,” Nature Ecology & Evolution

Jhala, Y.V., et al. (2021). Action Plan for Introduction of Cheetah in India. Wildlife Institute of India, National Tiger Conservation Authority and Madhya Pradesh Forest Department.

Read more about the Cheetah Conservation Fund, that helped assist wildlife authorities in India with Project Cheetah.

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 3

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Here are the best submissions for this week

African darter inbound for the Kafue River. Kafue National Park, Zambia. © Friedrich Koehler

A bat-eared fox absorbs a Nxai Pan sunrise. Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana. © Christo Giliomee

Dasher and Prancer fly over the water in Busanga Plains. “I was so happy to get a shot of these red lechwe, each with four legs off the ground!” Kafue National Park, Zambia. © Friedrich Koehler

Dampened spirits in Mara North Conservancy. Kenya. © Yaron Schmid

Releasing the Kraken. A giant kingfisher emerges from the depths with a Mozambique tilapia prize. Intaka Island wetlands, Cape Town, South Africa. © Braeme Holland

Bull with a merle earring. Buffalos and red-billed oxpeckers enjoy a symbiotic relationship, with the birds relieving the buffalo of ticks. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Ilna Booyens

Water gathering from the mountains draws a palette of colours down to Lake Natron. Kenya/Tanzania border. © Silke Hullmann

Baatombu horsemen kissing. In a spectacular show of horsemanship, the two men show affection while galloping the streets of Parakou. Kissing is a sign of friendship amongst many West African tribes. Benin. © Inger Vandyke

Hunted hunter. A cheetah tries to evade an advancing lion. Mara Naboisho Conservancy, Kenya. © Thorsten Hanewald

THIS WEEK

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🎤 Our HUGE news + bongos + extraordinary pics

About that exciting announcement I have hinted at a few times …

Next week I head to Rwanda for a few weeks of exploring the incredible Akagera and Nyungwe national parks. These are rising stars in Africa’s bouquet of well-managed destinations; ripe for the all-important international tourist market. Both parks are managed by African Parks (imho by far the world’s most effective conservation organisation operating in Africa) in partnership with the energetic and forward-thinking Rwandan government.

African Park’s reputation speaks for itself – 22 parks and >20 million hectares under management (check out their track record here) – and they keep growing their influence and reach every year. Now that they have secured such vast tracts of wilderness for nurturing they are increasing their focus on safari tourism as a major funding vehicle.

And that’s where we come in. Our two organisations have signed an exclusive agreement to drive bookings to the growing number of AP-managed camps & lodges within these protected areas across Africa – for all visitors except the local tourists in each country, which AP will continue to manage.

Expect much-reduced prices (compared to the norm) for your stay in paradise and genuine responsible safari opportunities where local people are the primary beneficiaries. Forget rim flow pools, crystal glass and Chef de Cuisine darling – we are talking authentic, experiential travel with all the creature comforts that you need.

More to come. For now, if you would like to be notified personally when we go live (mid-year) please email us at ukuri@africageographic.com.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Uganda – 6 days – From US$3,380pps
Trekking mountain gorillas is one of the most exhilarating bucket-list experiences in the world – and where better to do this than Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, the birthplace of mountain-gorilla trekking? On this safari you’ll also seek out the tree-climbing lions of Queen Elizabeth National Park, and explore the biodiversity of Entebbe Botanical Gardens.

Botswana wildlife & Victoria Falls magic – 8 days – From US$3,830pps
This iconic safari combines the wildlife riches of Khwai Community Concession and Chobe National Park in northern Botswana, with the awe-inspiring majesty of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Seek out Khwai’s predators and see the massive concentrations of elephants on the Chobe River waterfront, before being romanced by the awe-inspiring Zambezi River as it plunges into the misty gorges below Victoria Falls.

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Few people know much about the striking antelope which is the subject of our main feature this week. Silent, secretive, and shy, the bongo is one of Africa’s more mysterious characters. But the bongo is also one of Africa’s larger and more distinctive antelope species. Read more about these fascinating creatures in our first story below.

Our Photographer of the Year gallery this week captures some of the finer details of quintessential Africa – from teeny, glistening frogs and majestic and boisterous elephants; to a three-legged leopard and young Omo Valley herders tending to their cattle at daybreak. You can indulge in these experiences in our second story below.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/the-bongo/
SECRETIVE BONGOS
The bongo is one of Africa’s most attractive antelope yet its shy nature keeps it off the safari radar. We shed light on this alluring mammal

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-2/
EXTRAORDINARY PICS
Photographer of the Year 2023 entries for Week 2 are here! Enter for a chance to win your share of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

One of the challenges of finding an exciting fact each week is that after a few years, one risks repeating oneself. This week, for example, I was very excited to tell you all about how the fur of springhares is bioluminescent. Then I realised that sounded a bit familiar…

Luckily springhares are fascinating animals associated with a plethora of fun trivia options. Did you know that in terms of acceleration and speed, springhares are better at hopping than kangaroos? It’s all to do with the cross-sectional area of their tendon structures, which are proportionately thicker and thus rapidly facilitate the transfer of force.

It comes at a cost, though, at least in terms of energy expenditure. Kangaroos and wallabies may be slower, but their energy-efficient hopping allows them to move over vast distances. Springhares are more focused on escaping the terrors of the African night.

WATCH: Madagascar is a unique biodiversity hotspot, with 80% of its flora and fauna found nowhere else on earth. However, many of these species are under threat from climate change, deforestation, hunting and illegal trade in wildlife (03:15). Click here to watch

The bongo

In the gloom of an African rainforest, hulking figures lurk in the shadows between the towering trunks. The air is filled with the relentless sounds of life – chirping crickets, melodious birds and chattering primates – yet the Delphic shapes are silent but for the odd soft snort. Now and again, a break in the canopy lets through a slice of a sunbeam, lighting up a blaze of red fur. Silent, secretive, and shy, the bongo is one of Africa’s more mysterious characters.

The basics of bongos

Surprisingly, few people know of the striking bongo (Tragelaphus eurycerus), despite it being one of Africa’s larger and more distinctive antelope species. This partly concerns their preference for the tropical jungles and dense forests, as well as a somewhat distrustful approach to people. There are two recognised subspecies: the western/lowland bongo (T. eurycerus) in disjunct populations in West and Central Africa and the critically endangered eastern/mountain bongo (T. e. isaaci) in small, fragmented populations in Kenya.

The bongo’s bright auburn coat is perhaps its most distinctive feature, along with the white stripes that run down the flanks from the short dorsal crest. These stripes are believed to act as camouflage in dense vegetation by breaking up the animal’s outline. Bright white chevrons decorate the face and chest, emphasising body language cues in gloomy environments. Unusually for a forest-dwelling antelope, bongos are massive and are one Africa’s heavier antelope species. Though the males and females are similar in height, and both have horns, the males are considerably stockier and darken with age. It is not uncommon for older male eastern bongos to take on a rich mahogany colour.

Anyone familiar with nyala, sitatunga or kudu can immediately see the family resemblance when looking at the bongo. This tribe is known as the Tragelaphini, or spiral-horned antelope tribe and includes nine different species in two genera (for now – genetic analysis is ongoing). Despite their iconic “antelope look”, the spiral-horned antelopes belong to the subfamily Bovinae, and their closest relatives are bovines such as buffalos, bison and wild cattle. Within the tribe, bongo and sitatunga can hybridise and produce fertile offspring (known as a “bongsis”), reinforcing the theory that the two are most closely related.

Quick facts

Shoulder height:	1.1-1.3 metres
Mass:	Males: 220-405kg
Mass:	Females: 150-235kg
Gestation:	285 days
Conservation status:	Western bongo: Near Threatened
Conservation status:	Eastern/mountain bongo: Critically Endangered

Being a Tragelaphid…

Apart from shared physical similarities like white stripes, enormous ears, and lyre-shaped horns, the bongo and other members of the Tragelaphus genus share several behavioural similarities. These antelopes, including nyalas, bushbucks, sitatungas and kudus, all rely on concealment in dense vegetation and are not known for their running stamina. When hiding fails and bongos are forced to flee from a predator, they will do so only as far as necessary before attempting to obscure themselves in a thicket once again. The massive ears and enormous eyes – attractive characteristics of all members of this genus – are likely an evolutionary necessity to this veiled approach to predator avoidance. All the better to see and hear them with…

Nyala — Mountain nyalas share many physical characteristics with bongos, including white stripes, enormous ears, and lyre-shaped horns (males)

Bongo behaviour

Bongos are primarily nocturnal or crepuscular, though occasionally active during the day. They spend most of their time browsing, sometimes supplementing meals of leaves and small plants with mouthfuls of fresh grass. Studies have shown that bongos require permanent access to both water and salt. Of the herds studied within the Dzanga-Ndoki National Park in the Central African Republic, the focal points of their home ranges were all found to be clearings around waterholes and mineral licks. Small herds (seldom more than twenty individuals) of females and their youngsters hid in the forests during the day before emerging at dusk to drink and eat the mineral-rich clay soils (geophagy).

Unlike females, adult males are usually solitary once they reach sexual maturity at around two years old. Though their cryptic natures mean that bongos are relatively understudied across much of their natural distribution, research has shown that they are seasonal breeders in certain parts of their range. During these times (usually around October to January), the bulls will approach and interact with the herds searching for a receptive female. Naturally, competition with other males is likely in the mating season. Like other members of the Tragelaphus genus (especially nyalas), the bulls will avoid conflict if possible, relying on a combination of piloerection, lateral presentation, and slow-motion movements to intimidate rivals. When this fails, male fights can be vicious, prolonged, and potentially fatal.

Roughly nine months after the victor of such battles has claimed his prize, the female will give birth to one calf. These calves are hidden for at least a week before they are introduced to the rest of the herd.

From the west side to the east side

Overall, the bongo is classified as ‘Near Threatened’ on the IUCN Red List, but the distinction between the western and eastern subspecies of bongos has significant conservation ramifications. Both subspecies are under threat due to habitat loss and bushmeat hunting. However, numbers of eastern/mountain bongos have fallen below the minimum level necessary for a viable, sustainable population. There are believed to be fewer than 140 individuals confined to just five fragmented habitats in Kenya: Mount Kenya, the Maasai Mau Forest Complex, the SW Mau Forest, the Eburu Forest and the Aberdares Mountains. Illegal logging continues to reduce already limited available habitat, poaching and predation by lions contribute to declining numbers, and disease transmission from cattle has grave implications for their future survival.

The only things standing between the eastern subspecies and extinction in the wild are multi-pronged conservation efforts to preserve their remaining habitats and maintain genetic diversity. The bulk of this work falls to the Kenyan National Bongo Task Force and the Bongo Surveillance Project. Strategies to save the subspecies include the creation of the Mawingu Mountain Bongo Sanctuary and the gradual rewilding of captive-bred individuals. Their bright colours and placid temperaments have made bongos popular in zoos and private collections. More eastern bongos are in captivity in North America than in the wild. However, these animals are unfamiliar with the Kenyan environment and climate, excessively tame, susceptible to native diseases and predator naïve. It takes many years of intensive work before they or their offspring are ready to enter the wild.

The bongo sasa

Interestingly, one major factor that has played a role in keeping the western bongo safe from the worst effects of bushmeat hunting is a superstition that surrounds them. In Gabon, particularly, the bongo is said to be suffused with sasa – a kind of evil power in certain animals and plants that works hand in hand with witchcraft. The sasa of the bongo is sasa a eye duru, which translates as sasa – “which is heavy”. Many believe that those foolish enough to hunt a bongo risk falling victim to seizures and madness, which can only be treated with rigorous cleaning rituals.

This superstition has probably helped reduce the number of bongos killed for bushmeat, but recent research suggests that these taboos are becoming less prevalent.

Where can I see one in the wild?

The best places to see bongos in the wild are in the Republic of the Congo, in either Odzala-Kokoua National Park or Dzanga-Sangha National Park. Staking out one of the baïs (forest clearings) at sunset offers the strongest chance of catching them as they leave the forest to come and drink.

Want to see bongos in the wild? Get in touch with our travel team to discuss your bongo-seeking safari – details below this story.

Enjoying the rare experience of seeing a bongo in the wild can be nothing but rewarding. The bongo is unequivocally one of Africa’s most graceful and attractive antelope, yet their shy natures and love of obscurity have kept them largely off the safari radar.

Bongos can be spotted in Odzala-Kokoua National Park

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 2

Photographer of the Year is proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Here are the best submissions for this week

The bald baboon. There are many potential explanations for this chacma baboon’s depilated look but no cause has been isolated. Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana. © Johann van den Berg

A poignant metaphor as the dehorning of South Africa’s rhinos becomes commonplace as an anti-poaching measure. South Africa. © Kevin Dooley

A common egg-eater shows off its black mouth in a threat display. This photograph was captured during the snake’s release into Tygerberg Nature Reserve after being removed from a residential area. Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa. © Deon Oosthuizen

As her pack rests nearby after a successful hunt, an African wild dog settles into a cosy nook in a fallen mopane tree. Khwai Private Reserve, Okavango Delta, Botswana. © Hesté de Beer

Indignant guest. A red-billed oxpecker gives its giraffe host – who was trying to shake the bird off – a piece of its mind. Madikwe Game Reserve, North West, South Africa. © Kevin Dooley

A Cape vulture hones in on its landing site at Lammergeier Hide. Giant’s Castle, Maloti-Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site, South Africa. © Margie Botha

The hunter glares through the carnage of its kill. Thornybush Nature Reserve, South Africa. © Matthew Holland

A waterlily reed frog peers bleary-eyed into the early morning light, glittering in the rays of sunshine. Karingani Game Reserve, Mozambique. © Jo Taylor

A venerable bull quenches his thirst in the company of his askaris. Amboseli National Park, Kenya. © Paolo Torchio

A handsome squacco heron preens its breeding plumage. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Sharlene Cathro

Blended. A moment of peace captured between a leopard and her cub in golden light. Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Paolo Torchio

A cub rests on a bush pillow, uninterested in the antics of his siblings playing nearby. After calls to its sleeping mother, metres away, go unanswered, the little lion drifts off to sleep. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Rian Boshoff

Eye-to-eye with a restful silverback in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda. © Pedro Amaral

Double vision. A young Nile crocodile moves stealthily through the calm water. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Sharlene Cathro

A three-legged leopardess rubs up against a colossal fever tree. Solio Game Reserve, Kenya. © Andy Campbell

THIS WEEK

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First photos + connected elephants + Sabi Sands safari

It’s been raining almost non-stop in the Lowveld since I expressed concern a few weeks ago about the lack thereof – and now we are experiencing floods! Happiness mixed with worries about the local people affected by rising waters and raging rivers. To our clients arriving for your stunning Greater Kruger summer safari: expect a few logistical issues due to flooding rivers and no-go muddy game-drive areas. Safari njema

Having dropped out of social media ‘discussions’ about trophy hunting years back (same angry people on both sides sprouting ideological nonsense), I was drawn to a dramatic outburst by a respected pro-trophy hunting academic who felt offended that a colleague had described her latest post as containing ‘misinformation’. Her loud and clear clarion call to adoring supporters was sounded, and the usual attack dogs obediently tore strips out of her detractor – going way beyond the damage to her reputation. Blood-lust satiated, and order was restored. Another day in the cut-throat life of social media influencers in the wildlife-industry space…

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Our focus this week is on Africa’s top leopard safari destinations – South Luangwa in Zambia & Sabi Sands in South Africa. Check out these limited-offer safaris:

SPECIAL OFFER – 4 days at Tafika Camp, South Luangwa – From US$1,895pps
Fancy an early safari-season escape in May to the remote Nsefu Sector in South Luangwa National Park? Search for leopards, lions & wild dogs (obviously) – plus servals – on the salt pans. You’ll also enjoy exclusive access to the massed colonies of breeding yellow-billed storks. Don’t miss out!

Sabi Sands big-cat safari with Jamie – 6 days – From ZAR58,815pps
Join our scientific editor & NatGeo Wild guide Jamie Paterson for a limited-offer safari in big-cat paradise. The safari includes exclusive use of magnificent Jaci’s Sabi House & a safari vehicle, for a max of 6 guests. Track lions, leopards and other creatures as Jamie provides unique insights into the wonders of her old stomping ground.

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Our first weekly gallery for Photographer of the Year 2023 is here! And we couldn’t be happier with the submissions. Our entrants have delivered impressive shots this week: rare lemurs in Madagascar, a black leopard in Laikipia, a post-partum leopard, and even the intricate details of a dainty nose fly. This is probably one of the best first galleries we’ve had in all the years of this competition. A sign of the magnificent images to come in the next few months? Check out the gallery below.

Here’s a tip for aspiring Photographer of the Year entrants: Rather than submitting all your entries in one go, spread your entries over a few weeks. This will ensure your multiple, quality images don’t outcompete each other for a spot in our weekly galleries.

Habitat connectivity is essential to the conservation of elephants. New research based on three decades of elephant data explores how elephants move across the landscapes of southern Africa through protected areas and beyond – providing valuable insights that may aid a sustainable future for elephants. Read more in our second story below.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/photographer-of-the-year-2023-weekly-selection-week-1/
FIRST PHOTOS
Photographer of the Year 2023 entries for Week 1 are here! Enter for a chance to win your share of US$10,000 and a Botswana safari

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/putting-elephants-on-the-map/
CONNECTING ELEPHANTS
How do elephants move across southern Africa through protected areas and beyond? New research explores the value of habitat connectivity

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Tuesday was Valentine’s Day, and being the die-hard romantic I am, I’ve been saving this particular fact for just such an occasion.

Did you know that some female dragonflies have been known to fake death to avoid unwanted advances from males? They simply freeze mid-flight, crash to the ground and lie there motionless on their backs until the overly enthusiastic male loses interest.

And that’s all from me for this week.

Celebrating the Bateleurs

In our forum this week, Carla Geyser shares some insight about the work of The Bateleurs – an environmental air force made up of 150 volunteer pilots.

This group of civilians take to the skies to help protect Africa’s wildlands and creatures. The Bateleurs undertake important missions in partnership with various conservation organisations, from wildlife population counts to relocating animals and birds throughout southern Africa. Read more about the Bateleurs and their recent missions flying leopard tortoises – and one very special turtle – across South Africa, in Carla’s forum post.

WATCH: Photographer of the Year 2023 entrant Andrew Macdonald shares the epic journey he took to capture his image of the rare and critically endangered Perrier’s sifaka in Madagascar – overcoming the challenges presented by tricky lighting and terrain (04:29). Click here to watch

Putting elephants on the map – exploring connectivity in southern Africa

Habitat connectivity is one of the most critical concepts in the conservation of iconic animal species – and one of the most challenging to achieve as the human population expands. New research based on nearly three decades of elephant data explores how elephants move across the landscapes of southern Africa through protected areas and beyond.

Many of the world’s remaining large mammal species survive in small, fragmented populations isolated in protected areas and surrounded by a sea of human development. Around 80% of Africa’s savannah elephants occur in Southern Africa, predominantly in protected areas in the form of national parks and reserves. Though the space available to them is significant (nearly a million km²), connectivity between populations is a vital consideration for future population viability and persistence. Confining elephants to designated protected areas without the possibility of movement risks severe demographic challenges and the loss of genetic diversity.

To investigate how elephants utilise habitats across southern Africa, scientists examined over a million telemetry observations from 254 collared elephants spanning nearly three decades. Their goal was to determine areas of feasible connectivity between populations and, conversely, where movement between populations is no longer possible. To do this, they set about determining “where elephants want to go” and exploring how human actions restrict this movement. They then investigated how these factors vary across different landscapes through a series of case studies of distinct habitats in southern Africa. Finally, the authors describe the specific routes of connectivity that remain potentially accessible to elephant populations.

“Where do elephants want to go?”

Of the 252 different vegetation zones mapped by the Southern Africa Regional Science Initiative Project in Southern Africa, the telemetry data revealed that the elephants were utilising 83 of these zones. The authors then investigated the tree species occurring in these regions and predicted that a further 76 vegetation zones might be suitable for elephants.

Previous research has shown that elephants prefer to avoid steep slopes, as confirmed by the telemetry data in the new study. 95.8% of the recorded data points occurred on predominantly flat terrain. Consequently, hilly terrain acts as a barrier to elephant movement. Unsurprisingly, the presence of larger river systems also influenced elephant distribution, with 94.7% of elephant data points lying within 10km of a seventh-order river or higher. (Streams and rivers can be classified as numbered “orders”, with a first-order stream being the smallest and the Amazon River considered a 12^th-order stream.)

Elephant connectivity — The shaded areas in each map represent regions that would be suitable for elephants as determined by each factor considered individually. These factors include vegetation type (A), slope (B), distance to rivers (C), human population (D), cattle density (E), crop probability (F), and protected areas (IUCN I-VI) (G). The intersection of these seven layers provides a projection of suitable landscapes for elephants (H). Huang et al. (2022)

“How human actions restrict elephant movements”

As expected, the researchers found a strong relationship between areas with low agricultural potential, human densities, and elephant movement. This was the case even outside protected areas. Fences almost invariably acted as a restriction to elephant movement but for the few instances where gaps allowed for their passage. Unfenced areas allowed elephants to move freely, including beyond the boundaries of protected areas.

Case studies on the movements of elephants

Having identified the factors (natural and anthropogenic) that influence elephant movement, the authors then used regional case studies to contextualise this information. To do so, they assigned the elephant movement data into eight “clusters” of protected areas:

Etosha (Namibia)
Chobe (northern Botswana, Zambezi region of Namibia [formerly called the Caprivi Strip] and parts of north-west Zimbabwe)
Kafue (Zambia)
Limpopo, which includes Kruger National Park (South Africa, Zimbabwe, and Mozambique)
Luangwa (Zambia and Malawi)
Maputo (southern Mozambique and South Africa)
Niassa (Mozambique)
Zambezi (Zambia and Zimbabwe)

For each cluster, they systematically examined where the elephants would want to move to, where they dispersed in reality and what factors influenced this movement. For example, fences and water availability created significant barriers to elephant dispersal in Namibia, South Africa, and Botswana. In Etosha National Park in Namibia, the elephants were prevented from dispersing east to the wetter regions of the country by fences surrounding the park. However, gaps in the southwestern fence line allowed them to move west in the arid communal conservancies. Here, the elephants were restricted to dry riverbeds where they could dig for water, but human-elephant conflict has increased, particularly due to competition over water resources. Likewise, the international border fence between Namibia and Botswana acts as a barrier to elephant movement, even within the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area.

Through these case studies, the researchers also identified areas of feasible movement, such as between populations in the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (including the Kruger National Park) and Banhine and Zinave National Parks. They also acknowledged that connectivity is no longer achievable in some areas, as in Malawi (one of the most densely populated African countries) and between the southern and northern sections of Mozambique. In these regions, the growth of the human population and the increased need for agricultural land make the creation of corridors impossible.

Mapping elephant connections

This painstaking process allowed the researchers to create a series of maps to illustrate the interplay of various factors. “[These] maps help us to consider the prospects of how we can improve the connections between the different protected areas that harbour elephants in Southern Africa,” said one of the lead authors, Professor Rudi Van Aarde.

From fences to human-wildlife conflict, the challenges to elephant habitat connectivity are substantial, but many of these areas represent the last opportunities to create such linkages between protected areas. The authors are particularly critical of the impact of fences on elephant populations. They argue that while there are unequivocally situations where fencing is appropriate, it is essential to balance the need for fences against connectivity.

They also acknowledge that the potential to connect elephant populations is most dependent on socio-political will, and it will also inevitably require local community members to coexist with elephants. Yet, for all the effort needed, the researchers conclude that, “protecting the connections identified here for dispersal may represent some of our best chances at a sustainable future for elephants.”

Resources

View the original paper here: Ryan M Huang et al. (2022) “Mapping Potential Connections between Southern Africa’s Elephant Populations,” PLOS ONE, 17(10)

Read more about how Chobe elephants have learnt how to change their activity patterns to reduce risk of human encounters.

Read more about the importance of corridors to elephant movement here.

Photographer of the Year 2023 Weekly Selection: Week 1

We are open for entries from 1 February 2023 to midnight on 30 April 2023. Judging for Photographer of the Year will take place throughout those months and for the month of May 2023, and the winners will be announced in early June 2023.

Proudly brought to you by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

Here are the best submissions for this week

“After a tough hike to Wolfberg Arch in the Cederberg, I was greeted with clear skies and marvellous rocks.” Western Cape, South Africa. © John Mullineux

A brown-headed parrot adorned in a smorgasbord of tasty weeping boer-bean buds. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Joschka Voss

Shades of night descending. A squacco heron performs evening grooming rites in the last light of day. Kruger National Park, South Africa. © Mart-Mari Duvenhage

Equine linocut. A lone zebra braves a crossing over the Mara River. Serengeti National Park, Tanzania. (Editorial note: Frame added by teamAG to show picture border) © Mike George

A thin strip of beach forms a tightrope for horses against a backdrop of dramatic clouds, perfectly mirrored by the Noordhoek Wetlands. Western Cape, South Africa. © Neil Bradfield

A rotund olive baboon shouts a warning in the campsite. Mount Kenya, Kenya. © Paul Brennan

Photographing a nose fly (*Fainia albitarsis* of the family Rhiniidae) on a bug safari. “The little things can be as amazing as the more obvious. It just takes a little observation,” says the photographer. “I recommend a daily bug safari.” Nairobi, Kenya. © Peter Derry

Chasing the dust storm. A frame from Amboseli National Park, captured in the height of the recent drought. Kenya. © Remya Warrier

African civet caught on DSLR camera trap. Though widespread, these generally nocturnal animals are not often seen. Ruiri, Kenya. © Robin James Backhouse

A capture of Giza, one of Laikipia’s better-known melanistic leopards. “I was on an evening game drive and was lucky enough to see Giza in the last light before evening. She had just killed a dik-dik and was about to take her meal up into a tree.” Laikipia, Kenya. © Suzanne Evans

A well-deserved rest. A leopard reclines in the branches, not long after giving birth to her cub nearby. Mara Naboisho Conservancy, Kenya. © Thorsten Hanewald

Surrounded by giants. “We spotted a pride of lions warming up in the morning sun. One lioness completely overslept the retreat of her pride as a herd of elephants came by, awaking to find herself in the middle of the herd.” Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya. © Thorsten Hanewald

The solitary gaze of a curious wild dog. Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa. © Werner Hoetzel

THIS WEEK

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15 top wildlife experiences + all about giraffes 🦒

There is a trend on my Facebook feed to ‘Photoshop’ photos of birds – to resemble a gaudy box of smarties – dashes of bright shiny colours that assault the eye. Sounds like fun, and any reasonable person would know that this is art and not reality. BUT, read the comments and you realise that many people think these are real-life depictions. Oh boy 🙄. Elsewhere we see artificial intelligence software winning fine art competitions – feeding the fakeness. The ongoing process of humans moving to a virtual world continues. Thank goodness there is still a bunch of us who celebrate reality on Earth – warts and all.

90% of Kenya’s energy generated is via solar, wind and geothermal. The country’s transition from fossil fuels to low-carbon energy sources has been slowed down by legitimate objection from communities in the affected areas. Imagine a (real) world where local people benefit directly from the environmentally friendly energy generated on their land – that would be a big middle finger to the fossil fuel industry!

As I write this it’s raining cats and dogs. Every part of me is tingling 🙂

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Chitake Springs – 6 days – From US$3,310 pps
This epic photographic safari, led by two expert guides, is for the adventurous traveller and photographer seeking in-your-face wildlife drama. Chitake Springs in Mana Pools National Park is growing increasingly popular with photographers, as it consistently delivers raw, untamed wildlife action. There are only 2 spots left for this safari, departing in September 2023.

Rwanda gorilla trekking – 3 days – From US$2,630 pps
This is the perfect gorilla-trekking safari for time-challenged travellers. This adventure will take you through the pristine afro-montane forests of Volcanoes National Park, packed with golden monkeys, colourful Rwenzori turacos and prehistoric three-horned chameleons. And the cherry on the cake will be a mountain gorilla silverback and his family in the depths of paradise.

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From convening with mountain gorillas, to witnessing towering tuskers up close or being surrounded by thousands of wildebeest on their migration journey, there are a few iconic wildlife experiences that many of us have on our bucket lists. With so many opportunities for unique exploits on the vast continent, choosing the ultimate pilgrimage for that once-in-a-lifetime adventure can be tricky. That’s why teamAG has put our heads together to highlight 15 of the top wildlife encounters to pursue in Africa – see our first story below.

We have been pleasantly surprised lately to find how wildly popular giraffes are with the AG tribe. It seems that you can’t get enough of these (somewhat) gentle giants! And so, we’ve put together a bumper giraffe special, on everything there is to know about the planet’s tallest creature. Read more in our second story.

Next week we will be featuring our first Photographer of the Year gallery for 2023… we are brimming with anticipation. Have you entered your pics yet?

Happy celebrating Africa!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/15-top-african-wildlife-experiences/
WILDLIFE BUCKET-LIST
The ultimate guide to your African safari bucket list. Here are our choices of the top African wildlife experiences on the continent

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/giraffe/
THE GIRAFFE
The giraffe is a wonder of evolution, & a vital part of Africa’s ecosystems. Learn all about the planet’s tallest creature

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

What do bats and dolphins have in common? The answer is (somewhat obviously) not very much, but they do hold one fundamental physiological process in common: they both use echolocation to locate their prey.

But hey, many seemingly unrelated animals share physical traits and abilities, right? Insects, birds and bats have wings; humans and blue-eyed black lemurs can have blue eyes; many animal families (like primates and pandas) have opposable “thumbs” etc. But here is the interesting part…

Did you know that echolocation evolved independently in dolphins and bats through the same genetic mutations? So while we have generally assumed that convergent evolution arose through different gene mutations arriving at the same result, the bat and the dolphin showed that sometimes these traits occur through the same sequence of genetic steps.

Easing human-elephant conflict

Evelyn Poole, rep for our project partner Elephants Alive, writes on our forum:

“When elephants are under threat, the entire ecosystem suffers. Thriving ecosystems rely on connections between protected nature reserves. However, these corridors intersect with human settlements and cause increasing conflict between humans and elephants. New research by Elephants Alive identifies innovative solutions to mitigate this conflict:
🏍 Use of rapid response units to de-escalate conflict situations and protect people & elephants
🌾 Planting elephant-unpalatable crops to protect AND supplement farmers livelihoods

Combining these solutions with proven methods, such as beehive fences by Save the Elephants, will provide a sustainable answer to promoting coexistence and increase tolerance of path-finding elephants.”

15 top African wildlife experiences

Africa is a continent of wonders – natural and human alike. From such an extraordinary array of offerings, one might be hard-pressed to select the ultimate bucket-list of African wildlife experiences, but that is precisely what we have put our minds together to produce.

Want to join us for one of these epic wildlife experiences? Find African safaris for your bucket list or lodges in or near the below destinations here, search for our ready-made safaris here or get in touch with our travel team here.

Behold our choices of the top African wildlife experiences:

1. Go eye to eye with mountain gorillas

Those that have had the good fortune to spend time with wild mountain gorillas speak of it as a profound, almost transcendental experience. Something in their expressions speaks to the heart of what it means to be a sentient being. It becomes even more meaningful knowing that every visit significantly contributes to these majestic animals’ survival.

Where? Visit the last surviving mountain gorillas of Mgahinga Gorilla and Bwindi Impenetrable National Parks in Uganda, Mahale National Park in Tanzania, Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda or Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo.

The top 15 African wildlife experiences — Witness the sentience of a mountain gorilla up close

2. Experience the chaos of the Great Migration

There is no other way to describe the Great Wildebeest Migration but as a natural spectacle of extraordinary proportions. No words nor pictures can fully capture the sheer magnitude of millions of animals moving across the vast plains on their endless journey in search of fresh grasses. From the miraculous birthing season to the chaos of the river crossings, the Great Migration is a primal display of nature at its most raw.

Where? Follow the herds north through Serengeti National Park in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara in Kenya and the treacherous river crossings en route, or await their return to the southern calving grounds in Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

3. Search for the black ghosts of Laikipia

Melanistic leopards are a rarity in Africa, and those that allow more than just a fleeting glimpse even more so. A few years ago, a desire to see a black ‘panther’ in Africa would have seemed almost laughable. Yet, black leopards seem to thrive in the heart of Kenya and careful, ethical habituation in Laikipia has ensured that sightings are a regular occurrence.

Where? There is more than one black leopard wandering the wilds of Laikipia. Laikipia does not stint on comfortable accommodation, though there are options available to suit tighter budgets. There are a number of either community-owned or community-operated lodges for conscience-driven travellers available as well.

4. Convene with giants in Tsavo and Amboseli

The greater Tsavo-Amboseli ecosystem in Kenya is home to Africa’s last notable population of big tuskers. These magnificent elephants – whose tusks reach the ground – are among the last of their kind, fiercely protected by dedicated conservationists.

Where? Many of the largest elephants roam the Tsavo East and West national parks, shaded red by the area’s famous dust. Further south, Amboseli National Park offers the opportunity for awe-inspiring photographs against the iconic backdrop of looming Mount Kilimanjaro as you commune with these giant elephants.

5. Stalk the mountains with wolves

On the roof of Africa, Ethiopian wolves stalk the heather in search of their mole rat prey. These gorgeous predators, adorned in russet coats, are one of the most endangered large carnivores in the world – occupying a perilous niche at Afroalpine altitudes. Here, at dizzying heights and surrounded by some of the most unusual scenery in Africa, they share their space with the ubiquitous (but endlessly entertaining) geladas and more elusive walia ibexes.

Where? To set off on this rare African wildlife experience, head to the Simien Mountains National Park and the Bale Mountains of Ethiopia, which host the last population “strongholds” of the Ethiopian wolf.

The top 15 African wildlife experiences - Ethiopian wolf — An Ethiopian wolf stalks off with its ice rat prey in the Bale Mountains

6. Waddle with the penguins of the Cape

There is something so delightfully incongruous about the sight of penguins wandering the beaches amongst bikini-clad tourists at the height of the blazing Cape summers in South Africa. Yet the charismatic penguins of Simon’s Town have well and truly made themselves at home and, in so doing, become the town’s most sought-after attractions.

Where? Boulder’s and Foxy Beaches in Simon’s Town or Stony Point Nature Reserve in Betty’s Bay usually have some penguins present year-round, though the best time to find them is between December and May.

7. On foot with the wild dogs of Mana Pools

Though there are many reasons why a visit to Mana Pools National Park should be on one’s bucket list, there is no question that the park’s wild dogs (painted wolves) play a substantial role in the park’s allure. An encounter with these iconic animals is always exhilarating, but these particular dogs are also extremely comfortable with people on foot. For photographers and enthusiasts alike, this translates to an unparalleled opportunity to view them from a unique vantage point.

Where? Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe, especially during their winter denning season from around May to September.

The top 15 African wildlife experiences - Wild dogs Mana Pools — Playful wild dog pups take a moment’s downtime in Mana Pools National Park

8. Search for the desert-adapted lions of Namibia

Though life for all wild animals involves a delicate balance on the knife-edge of survival, those that live in the extremes are remarkable for their resilience. In a land of savage beauty, the lions of the Namib Desert have adapted to a harsh existence with limited prey and less water. Phantom-like, these hardy cats prowl the beaches of the aptly named Skeleton Coast and pad gracefully across the sands of the inland dunes.

Where? These lions roam the Skeleton Coast and inland riverbeds of the northwestern corner of Namibia. Read more about conservation efforts aiding these lions here.

9. Meet the marvels of Madagascar

Madagascar is a land that has been isolated for millions of years and, as a result, is an island of endemic marvels. As wildlife experiences go, the Madagascan one is both fascinatingly weird and captivatingly wonderful. From dense tropical forests to jagged rock faces, this massive island is a tapestry of vastly different habitats, each replete with its quirky inhabitants. From wide-eyed and endearing lemurs (over 100 species of them!) and slinking fossa to leaf-shaped reptiles and birds of every conceivable colour, Madagascar is a kaleidoscope of oddities.

Where? The island’s sheer size means that every trip should be tailored to particular interests. Each story in our four-part Madagascar series (scroll down in the story to access the other three regions) is dedicated to a different corner of the island.

A Verreaux’s sifaka – a primate in the lemur family – photographed near Fort Dauphin (Taolagnaro) in Madagascar

10. See bats darken the skies of Kasanka

The Great Migration of East Africa may be one of Africa’s spectacles. Still, in terms of sheer numbers, it pales in comparison to the abundance of the Kasanka Bat Migration – the largest migration of mammals on earth.

Where? Every year between October and December, African straw-coloured fruit bats descend in their millions upon a tiny patch of swamp in Zambia’s Kasanka National Park, filling the skies and ladening the fruit trees upon which they feed.

Every evening during the Kasanka Bat Migration, African straw-coloured fruit bats leave their roosts in Kasanka’s Mushitu Swamp Forest to search for food

11. Search the swamps for shoebills

While competition is fierce, the shoebill is widely acknowledged as one of Africa’s most charismatic avian offerings. A bill roughly the size and shape of a Dutch clog should be innately comic, but every tilt of the shoebill’s head seems to reveal a different mood – austere and intimidating, vengeful, smug, and even coy. Nothing is beyond the repertoire of their facial expression.

Where? These leggy birds have a penchant for fishing in deep swamps, and a specific expedition is usually required to find them. Murchison Falls National Park, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Semliki Wildlife Reserve and Mabamba Swamp in Uganda, and the Bangweulu Swamps in Zambia, are all excellent places to start the search.

Travellers hoping to tick a sighting of a shoebill off their bucket lists can head out on specialised expeditions in either Uganda or Zambia

12. Swim with whale sharks off Africa’s East Coast

Beneath the azure waves of the Indian Ocean, spectacular seascapes support a cornucopia of life, including the largest fish species in the world – the whale sharks. When treated with the appropriate respect, these gentle plankton-eaters are slow and docile, allowing for a profoundly humbling underwater encounter with one of the Earth’s leviathans.

Where? Every year, feeding aggregations of whale sharks occur near Mafia Island off the Tanzanian coast and the waters of southern Mozambique, moving through Bazaruto Archipelago National Park. The recent rise in popularity of swimming with whale sharks has seen them harassed by unethical tourism practices. It is vital to book the experience through a reputable operator that puts the well-being of the sharks first.

Be sure to seek out ethical and reputable operators for your whale shark safari – so that the well-being of the sharks comes first

13. Trek for chimps in the forest

Two great ape experiences on one list might seem overkill, but encountering chimpanzees in the wild is a world apart from gorilla trekking. Like humans, chimpanzees are social and intelligent predators with a complex array of social signals, dramas and romances. They use tools and wage wars. Chimpanzees are linked to us by an ancient common ancestor and offer a poignant reminder of our own evolutionary history.

Where? Uganda’s Kibale National Park offers some of the best chimpanzee trekking in Africa, as does Mahale Mountains National Park in Tanzania. Like any safari experience, there is always an element of luck involved, but the viewing in either location can be extraordinary.

An intensive grooming session nurtures chimp kinship in Kibale National Park, Uganda

14. Search for Africa’s legendary horned giants in the Greater Kruger

It is no secret that the beleaguered rhinos of the world face a perilous future, but there are still places where they can live their wild lives in (relative) safety. Despite plummeting numbers in the Kruger National Park, the Greater Kruger region still represents one of the largest remaining wild populations of both white and black rhinos. While many of the rhinos in the area are dehorned for their protection, Greater Kruger offers optimal viewing opportunities of the large mammals.

Where? The private reserves on the western fringe of the Kruger National Park are all home to both rhino species, and ensuring their safety comes at significant personal and financial costs. Visitors to these parks can rest assured that their reserve fees are going directly to protect one of Africa’s most important rhino populations.

Being in the presence of rhinos is a mesmerising experience for anyone fortunate enough to come across these giants

15. Meet the meerkats of the Kalahari

With the Big 5 dominating the safari scene, the smaller creatures are often overlooked. Yet sometimes, the tiniest of animals sport the biggest personalities. Decades of scientific research (and soap opera-styled documentaries) have ensured that there are several habituated meerkat clans wandering the red sands of the Kalahari. Observe their antics from eye level, watch the sentries hard at work (or act as a suitable vantage point) and be charmed by their litany of conversational squeaks.

Where? The meerkats of Tswalu Kalahari Reserve are closely monitored by scientific and habituation teams and, while contributing to a substantial body of research, have been known to charm the pants off visitors as well. Meerkats are also found in high densities around Botswana’s salt pans and, while not as habituated as those of Tswalu, can be equally bewitching.

A meerkat huddle in Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

Giraffe

Millennia of evolutionary problem-solving have conferred upon animals a weird and wonderful array of adaptations from trunks to tails and patterned coats to thick fur. Predators have been equipped with offensive weaponry, and prey species are similarly prepared to defend themselves in an eternal evolutionary arms race. The peculiar, unique creatures on the planet have been shaped by innumerable overlapping conditions never again to be repeated – every living thing is the product of circumstance. And perhaps nowhere is this more apparent than the giraffe, one of Africa’s most fantastical offerings.

In the know

As the tallest animal on Earth, giraffes do not exactly keep a low profile and probably need little by way of introduction. Their leggy silhouettes have appeared in some of the most iconic images of the continent, hordes of tourists have marvelled at their outlandish shapes, and cartoon representations abound. Yet despite their rather significant stature, these quiet and unassuming herbivores spent much of the 20th century flying under the conservation and ethological radar. They are perhaps one of the most under-studied large mammals in Africa, and scientists are only now beginning to unravel the secrets of their social lives and communication. Worse, it is only in the last decade that the reality of their “silent extinction” has made it into the public eye.

Giraffes are possibly one of the most intriguing animals on safari. While we are far from knowing everything there is to know, recent scientific discoveries around their complex physiology and behaviours are endlessly fascinating.

Quick facts

Height:	Up to 6 m
Mass:	Male: 1,192kg
	Female: 828kg
Social Structure:	Loose aggregations or solitary (with evidence of longer-lasting bonds)
Gestation:	460 days (15 months)
Conservation status:	Vulnerable

The fast-walking leopard camel

The common name “giraffe” comes from the Arabic word zarāfah, meaning “fast-walker”, but it is the scientific name that is particularly entertaining. Until recently, all giraffes were considered one species (more on this later): Giraffa camelopardalis. “Camelopard” is an archaic English name for the giraffe, derived from Greek and referring to the giraffe’s physical similarity to a camel and the spotted, leopard-like colouration (from pardus, meaning “spotted” or “mottled”).

The characteristic pattern of dark patches on a lighter background – slightly different for each species – probably serves a thermoregulatory function, as the darker patches are rich in large sweat glands. The camel comparison is particularly relevant to their walking styles – giraffes and camels move both legs on the same side of the body simultaneously in a gait known as pacing. This confers a rocking motion to their movement and means that while they can gallop, they cannot truly trot in the way a horse or zebra can. Naturally, having legs over two metres long implies that even a leisurely stroll qualifies as fast walking. Still, giraffes can also reach speeds of over 60km/hour when forced into a reluctant run.

Despite this (admittedly tenuous) similarity, camels and giraffes are only very distantly related as members of the Artiodactyla (even-toed ungulates). The closest relative of all giraffe species is a bizarre and endangered animal called an okapi, found only in the highland forests of the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Why the long neck (and legs)?

The famous question that has dominated scientific interest in giraffes since the Galapagos finches first lit the fire of Darwin’s interest in evolution. Giraffes proved to be the textbook example of how a physical trait of some individuals (height, stripes, spots) conferred an advantage and, over many thousands of years, became the signature look of a species. So, during times of nutritional stress, slightly taller giraffe ancestors could reach leaves above the reach of their competitors. Thus, they survived and passed the “tall gene” onto their offspring.

This is, of course, a massive oversimplification and a bit unfair to Darwin to boot. For a start, Darwin was more impressed by the giraffe’s tail as a perfectly designed flyswatter and only focussed on the giraffe’s neck in a later argument with a staunch critic. Extracting the “reasons” why an animal evolved to look the way it does will invariably produce competing theories and disagreements. It is also impossible to look at the contemporary advantages of an evolved trait and assume these explain its evolution.

As it turns out, long necks confer several advantages. For example, they increase the momentum and power of the devastating blows delivered by fighting males to rivals, suggesting a sexual competition element. A long neck (and good eyesight) is also helpful for keeping an eye out for predators. The increased surface area may aid heat dissipation to assist thermoregulation in warm climates. In simple terms, we don’t fully understand how the giraffe came to stand as tall as it does.

Two giraffes showing off their tall genes in Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Kenya

Gotta keep your head up

We know that the evolution of the giraffe’s six-metre height necessitated several further physiological adaptations to deal with the resultant physics. Though a full exploration of these features is beyond the scope of this article, it essentially comes down to fluid dynamics and gravity. Each of the seven cervical vertebrae can be over 28cm long, and together, these neck vertebrae comprise over 50% of the entire length of the vertebral column, raising the brain two metres above the heart. The hooves lie roughly the same distance below the heart on the opposite end.

Giraffes have relatively large hearts (though not that much heavier than would be expected for an animal of their size) and mean average blood pressure twice that of other mammals. Their heart rate ranges between 40-90 beats per minute, which is also quite fast for an animal of their size (a resting horse’s heart rate rarely goes above 20 beats per minute, by comparison). This ensures that the brain is well supplied, despite its lofty position. Tight, thick skin around the legs prevents fluid from accumulating and encourages its return to the heart via the venous network. Enormous neck veins, a muscular jugular and robust valves also help prevent the giraffe from fainting when assuming its awkward straddle to drink.

Blood flow aside, a neck that long results in several other challenges. The amount of “dead space” (the parts in our respiratory system not participating in gas exchange – the trachea, bronchi, etc.) increases due to the long trachea. As a result, giraffes have a much larger tidal volume (air breathed in and out) to compensate. As ruminants, they also have an unusually muscular oesophagus to transport the balls of cud back into the mouth.

Giraffes have a highly developed nuchal ligament that runs from the back of the head to the spinal processes of the shoulder vertebrae. The stiff band of elastic tissue helps support the muscular and heavy neck without the giraffe having to invest any energy in holding its head up. However, they need to contract these muscles against the force of the ligament to lower the head. This may have led to the misconception that giraffes sleep very little and seldom lie down. However, research shows that giraffes sleep roughly the same amount as other ruminants (a couple of hours a day – though generally in short bursts) and usually do so lying down, with the head tucked to the side and resting on their hip.

The journeys of giraffes

The life of a giraffe begins dramatically with a two-metre drop to the ground below the standing mother. Once the tiny creature has recovered from the shock of its brutal entry into the world, it immediately tries to stand; a feat made all the more challenging as a giraffe calf is already around two metres tall at birth. They are born with their ossicones folded down on the skull – these will become erect a few days later. A closer look at a giraffe calf also reveals that they are oddly disproportionate, with a (relatively) short neck, which allows them to suckle comfortably.

A mother giraffe tries to protect her young baby from a pride of lions in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, Kenya

Giraffe calves are most vulnerable to predators during their first few weeks. Still, giraffe cows are formidable protectors and will attempt to fight off even the largest predators with potentially lethal kicks. It is not uncommon to encounter slightly older calves in a “calving pool” under the care of one female. The calves suckle for up to eight months and remain with their mothers for just over a year.

It was generally assumed that giraffes formed no lasting social bonds, but research now shows that their social dynamics are far more complex than initially believed. Females live in matrilineal societies, and associations between mothers, daughters, and grandmothers may last for years. These small kinship groups may link up with other herds for a while before separating again – a more typical fission-fusion society. Distress signs have also been observed in cows that have witnessed the death of another cow’s calf, suggesting a degree of cooperation in calf raising.

Naturally, any social structure requires communication and giraffe are not the mute creatures they were once believed to be. They have been recorded humming, snorting, grunting, moaning and even growling. Fascinatingly, they can also use infrasonic sounds to communicate below the level of human perception, like elephants.

Boys are smelly

Unlike the females, the bulls seemingly form no lasting social bonds. Once they disperse from their mothers, they may temporarily join bachelor herds but become increasingly solitary as they age. Sexual maturity is attained at around four years of age, but it may take several years until they can compete for mating rights.

A fight between two equally matched males is one of Africa’s greatest spectacles. The process is (perhaps somewhat deceptively) termed “necking” and involves swinging the neck round in powerful arcs and using the ossicones to club the flanks of a rival. The blows can be exceedingly violent, and while it is rare, such fights can be lethal. For this reason, the ossicones of bulls are far thicker, more rounded, and hairless than those of the females.

All giraffes smell somewhat pungent, but mature bulls are downright malodorous. This is because their skin is coated with copious amounts of a secretion containing 3-methylindole, a chemical responsible for the smell of mammalian faeces, and para-cresol. These substances discourage the growth of fungi and bacteria on the skin.

The Silent Extinction

Currently, the IUCN Red List recognises only one giraffe species, which is classified as “Vulnerable”. However, the most recent genetic research shows that there are four species of giraffe, three of which have several different subspecies. These are:

Northern giraffe – Giraffa camelopardalis
- West African giraffe – G. c. peralta
- Nubian giraffe (including the Rothschild’s giraffe) – G. c. camelopardalis
- Kordofan giraffe – G. c. antiquorum
Southern giraffe – Giraffa giraffa
- South African giraffe – G. g. giraffa
- Angolan giraffe – G. g. angolensis
Masai giraffe (Giraffa tippelskirchi) – Giraffa tippelskirchi
- Masai giraffe – G. t. tippelsirchi
- Luangwa giraffe (often termed the Thornicroft’s giraffe) – G. t. thornicrofti
Reticulated giraffe (Giraffa reticulata)

Though there has been considerable academic debate over the exact species/subspecies designations, the discussion is essential as it goes to the heart of conservation efforts. While giraffes across Africa may only be “vulnerable”, many species and subspecies face potential extinction due to habitat loss, bushmeat poaching, and snaring. It is helpful to consider the distinction between the four species as one might of the difference between white and black rhinos to understand how vital it is for their future.

For those wishing to make a meaningful contribution to giraffe conservation, you can visit the Giraffe Conservation Foundation’s page on our app (see instructions on how to get the app below this story).

Final thoughts

In the Southern Hemisphere, the Southern Cross constellation (Crux) revolves its way through the night sky, pointing out south for weary travellers and excited novice stargazers. In a much more exciting interpretation from some traditional Bushman stories, these four stars are two giraffes, forever wandering the inky black of night. And just as the stars are an essential element of the sky, so too are giraffes a vital part of Africa’s ecosystems, which makes it astonishing that we still know so little about them…

Further reading

For a more in-depth analysis of the giraffe species and the threats facing them, read Giraffes: The Silent Extinction

For the most recent species and subspecies classification, have a look at Four giraffe species, seven subspecies

And for the latest populations and trends, Giraffe conservation status – the latest numbers give hope!

THIS WEEK

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Namibia’s rhino woes + 📸 Photographer of the Year is here!

There has been a fair amount of publicity since my editorial last year about the lack of human crowd control at river crossings during the incredible Great Wildebeest Migration. One resultant story was by the New York Times, in which I was asked about the situation. Although the NYT journos did a great job, they did not delve into the complexities of the problem. And so some people responding to the article resolved to avoid going to Africa on safari. That straight-line logic is, of course, NOT going to help Africa overcome its many conservation issues. The better response as a RESPONSIBLE traveller is to research how to avoid being part of the problem and use a tour operator that best advises you. Nudge, nudge. I provide some insight here in another news media story about how to responsibly enjoy this epic safari experience.

Educating our species about conservation realities at ground level in Africa is complicated by many human conditions. Emotion, denial, naivety, prejudice, and vested interests – to name a few. That’s why we rely on you to help spread the word. Thanks 😉

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

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Choose your next adventure! Chat to our travel experts and you could soon be jetting off to the heart of the wilderness.

GREAT MIGRATION, SERENGETI – 5 days – from US$3,425pps
If you’d like front-row seats as the Great Wildebeest Migration makes its way through the Serengeti ecosystem, this iconic safari is for you. Our chosen dates & camps are to maximise on sightings, based on where the herds are at the time.

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

There’s a buzz at teamAG – for the day has finally arrived. Photographer of the Year 2023 is now live! Find all the details you need further down in our newsletter.

A few days ago, Namibia’s Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism released disturbing statistics, indicating that the incidence of rhino poaching is severely escalating in the country. 87 rhinos were poached in Namibia in 2022 – almost double the number poached in 2021. On a positive note, however, elephant poaching is decreasing. Read more in our first story below.

This week we delve deep into the magical primate-rich forests of Uganda’s Kibale National Park. Kibale is known for offering enthralling encounters with chimpanzees and is renowned for some of the highest primate densities in Africa. Read more about the wacky and wonderful inhabitants of this national park in our second story below.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/rhino-poaching-on-the-rise-in-namibia/
POACHING NAMIBIA
Rhino poaching is on the rise in Namibia, with 87 rhinos poached in 2022 – almost double that of 2021. Elephant poaching is declining

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/kibale-national-park/
PRIMATE-RICH KIBALE
The forests of Uganda’s Kibale National Park are an oasis for countless primate species, including chimpanzees, & an array of fauna & flora

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that Central Africa is home to a furry frog with Wolverine-like claws? The breeding males of the hairy frog species (Trichobatrachus robustus) develop hair-like dermal papillae on their flanks and back legs, giving the impression of a dishevelled froggy coiffure.

A fuzzy amphibian is weird enough on its own, but the hairy frog has another bizarre defensive trick quite literally up its sleeve. When threatened, they expose the bones of their toes through the skin to create a set of claws to rake their attackers. Hence the alternative name, the Wolverine frog. So effective is this approach that they have left behind deep, bleeding wounds on unwary scientists. How do they do this? Well, it appears that they intentionally break the bones of the toe and force them through the skin.

Sweet dreams…

Photographer of the Year is open for entries!

Have you sent through your pics yet? Get your entries in for Photographer of the Year 2023. We’re looking for your photos that celebrate Africa and capture the continent’s splendour, from wildlife action and landscapes to African culture and safari experiences.

There are some awesome prizes up for grabs: The competition winner and two runners-up will share the princely sum of US$10,000 and experience the ultimate private safari in Botswana’s Northern Tuli Game Reserve.

Kibale National Park

As we grow up, our innocent appreciation of life’s small pleasures seems to vanish, tempered by life’s many stresses and pressures. In many ways, going on a safari is a way of recapturing this childlike wonder – escapism at its purest. And where better to escape than the green-swathed forest paths of Uganda’s Kibale National Park? A place where the flash of a butterfly’s wing or the soft call of an elusive bird is enthralling and an encounter with chimpanzees humbling. The joy inspired by the forests of Kibale is undiluted and uncomplicated, a simple celebration of nature’s remaining wonders.

Kibale National Park and its surrounds

The resplendent forests of Kibale National Park stretch out over 776km² (77,600ha), a dense layer of emerald protecting a diverse array of fauna and flora. The park is contiguous with the northern edge of Queen Elizabeth National Park, the perfect primate-themed complement to Uganda’s most popular Big-5 safari experience. Kibale is the country’s premier chimpanzee trekking destination, supporting a population of well over 1,000 of these complex, intelligent beings.

A road cuts through a less dense section of the forest

Most of the park is dominated by evergreen rainforest, with a floral composition that marks a transition from typical high-altitude Afromontane to lowland forest. Among 300 tree species, rare hardwoods like the tiama (Entandrophragma angolense) and brown mahoganies (Lovoa swynnertonii) tower above the forest floor from massive buttresses. Interspersed between them, fruit-laden figs (Ficus spp.) keep the park’s impressive primate densities well-sated.

Beneath the thick canopy, the winding paths are widely acknowledged as some of the most picturesque on the continent, lined with a thick layer of shrubby undergrowth. When the sun shines through the leaves, the effect is an ethereal combination of shades of green and gold, and the air is redolent with the fragrant aroma of petrichor and mulch. The vast tracts of forest are interspersed with patches of grassland and swamp. On the park’s fringes, the community-run Bigodi Wetland is a popular attraction for primate enthusiasts and birders.

Kibale chimpanzee — A chimpanzee vocalises in the forest

The chimpanzees

Kibale’s exuberant chimpanzees are the park’s most popular attraction unequivocally, and a history of nearly three decades of trekking has conferred an almost infallible success rate for encounters. These apes have the honour (perhaps a dubious one, depending upon your perspective) of being our closest relatives and time spent in their company is a unique experience. As the subjects of decades of scientific research, the chimpanzees of Kibale have revealed much about the intricacies of their intelligence, elaborate social nuances and hunting behaviours.

There are two distinct chimpanzee experiences on offer in Kibale National Park. The first is the traditional trek, where expert rangers guide visitors through the forest to find the habituated chimpanzees (often by following their blood-curdling shrieks). This can take up to a few hours, but once the chimpanzees are located, time spent with them is strictly limited to an hour. These animals are entirely comfortable with the presence of their bipedal cousins and will feed, gambol and romance without concern.

Alternatively, a second option is the chimpanzee habituation experience. This is a half- or full-day activity that starts at the break of dawn, led by the researchers of the park’s habituation team. The intention is to gradually introduce unhabituated chimpanzees to the presence of people, a painstaking process that may take several years to accomplish. It is slightly more expensive and requires considerably more patience than conventional trekking, often venturing further into the depths of the forests. However, the reward is an unparalleled insight into the world of chimpanzees without time constraints.

A forest brimming with life

Apart from its ape residents, Kibale National Park is renowned for some of the highest primate densities in Africa. Red-tailed monkeys are ubiquitous, and their white-patched cheeks and noses are undeniably adorable. The park’s monkey checklist includes the endangered Ugandan red colobus monkey, the threatened Uganda mangabey, the fierce-looking common patas monkey, the mantled guereza (Abyssinian black-and-white colobus), the vervet monkey, and the blue monkey. A special night walk may also reveal the shy and elusive East African potto and several galago (bushbaby) species.

Keep an eye out for many primate species in Kibale, including wild grey-cheeked mangabey monkeys, red colobus monkeys and olive baboons

Though the primates are undoubtedly the more conspicuous (and noisy) inhabitants, the diversity of Kibale extends to myriad mammal, bird, reptile, arthropod and amphibian families. On the larger side of the animal spectrum, elephants and buffalos regularly wander into the forest from neighbouring Queen Elizabeth National Park.

These are seldom seen and religiously avoided by the guides leading walks through the forest. Red and blue duikers, bushpigs, and giant forest hogs all occupy the undergrowth in the company of servals and rare African golden cats. There are even two species of otters in the forest waterways and swamps: the Congo clawless otter and the spotted-necked otter.

A flash of feathers

Uganda ranks high on the list of essential birding destinations in Africa. No tour of the country would be complete without dedicating some time to scanning the thickets and canopies of Kibale National Park. With habitats ranging from wet to dry forest, woodland, savanna and swamp, the park’s total bird list numbers 375 species, including six Albertine Rift endemics. For avid birders, the inventory of avian occupants reads like a riveting novel: olive long-tailed cuckoo, western tinkerbird, African pitta, black-bellied seedcracker, African grey parrot, black bee-eater, red-chested owlet, black-eared ground-thrush and the innately comic great blue turaco – could it get better than this?

The answer is yes because there is one particular feathered occupant that, upon its discovery in the park in 2005, saw birding interest in Kibale skyrocket – the green-breasted pitta. These enigmatic little birds are only found deep in the tropical forests of Central Africa and, despite their spectacular kaleidoscope of colours, are surprisingly elusive. Few birders have had the good fortune of laying eyes on the green-breasted pitta. The tale of how a lost guide (intent on keeping her geographical confusion secret from her chimpanzee tour group) stumbled upon the first sighting is genuinely charming. Fortunately, ranger Harriet Kemigisha had the good sense to recognise the pitta as an extraordinary finding. Years later, she would lead Africa Geographic director Christian Boix on a pilgrimage to view one. The story (well worth reading in full) can be accessed here: Searching for the elusive green-breasted pitta. Even better, you could be heading out on your own trip to spot a green-breasted pitta (and much more) on this 5-day safari.

Explore & stay

Want to go on a safari to Kibale? To find lodges in or near Kibale, search for our ready-made packages and get in touch with our travel team, scroll down to after this story.

With this abundance of birds and mammals, along with a profusion of 250 butterfly species and around 70 reptiles and amphibians, Kibale National Park is Eden-like in its beauty. Every step through the park offers a discovery. Kibale is, however, a tropical rainforest, so every step should be taken in a comfortable pair of solid boots and long trousers, lest the mud, biting ants or stinging nettles detract from the adventure. All electronics and other precious belongings should also be thoroughly waterproofed. Rain is possible at any time of year, though April, May and November tend to experience higher rainfall levels. The trails are well-maintained and suitable for most fitness levels, though those trekking chimpanzees should be prepared to walk for several hours if necessary.

There is only one lodge inside the national park itself, but there are countless lodges, guest houses and tented camps on the periphery. This Uganda region is full of exciting attractions, from Lake Edward and Lake George (two of the smaller Rift Valley Lakes) to ancient explosion craters filled with saltwater lakes. Naturally, a game drive or two in neighbouring Queen Elizabeth National Park is a must, as is a tour of the Crater Lakes (and even a swim if you are feeling brave) and a cultural tour of surrounding villages.

Lake Nyinabulitwa is one of over 50 Crater Lakes in Uganda

Rhino poaching on the rise in Namibia

Namibia’s Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism (MEFT) has confirmed that 87 rhinos were poached in the country in 2022 – almost double the number (45) poached in 2021. The 2022 tally included the poaching of 61 black rhinos and 26 white rhinos.

The news comes as MEFT announced the 2022 poaching statistics for elephants and rhino in a statement released on 30 January, 2023.

The Ministry reported that Etosha National Park is being targeted for poaching, with 46 rhinos poached in the park in 2022 alone. The total tally also includes 15 rhinos poached on rhino custodianship farms, and 25 on white rhino private farms.

“We note with serious concern that our flagship park, Etosha National Park, is a poaching hotspot,” MEFT said in the statement. “The Ministry and its partners in wildlife protection and law enforcement will step up efforts against wildlife crime in Etosha National Park, particularly to curb rhino poaching.”

One rhino poaching incident has been recorded in 2023 so far. That brings the total tally of rhinos poached from 2017 to date to 376.

In a positive turn, however, elephant poaching appears to be on the decrease. MEFT reports that only four elephants were poached in 2022. Elephant poaching figures have declined in Namibia over the past years, from 101 in 2015 to 50 in 2017, 27 in 2018, 13 in 2019, 12 in 2020, and 10 in 2021. The four elephants targeted in 2022 were poached in the Zambezi Region (two), Kavango West Region (one) and Kunene Region (one).

“It is our hope that these figures will continue to descend until we reach the zero-poaching target,” said MEFT. “For this year, no elephant has been poached.”

Elephant numbers are increasing and their range is expanding in Namibia, which is cause for celebration and concern. The key concern is related to human-elephant conflict, especially in areas where elephants have not occurred for decades. As a result, the country took the decision last year to auction 170 elephants from human-elephant conflict hotspots, with many of these elephants controversially being exported to safari parks in the United Arab Emirates (UAE).

MEFT noted in its recent statement that it had put improved interventions in place to fight wildlife crime, praising the work of anti-poaching units operating across the country. It called on members of the public to help curb rhino poaching by reporting suspected perpetrators to the authorities. “We must as a nation stand against the illegal plundering of our natural resources by rejecting and condemning wildlife crimes in our beautiful country,” it said.

THIS WEEK

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Safari myths busted + Maasai, maize & mammoths

There is a pack of free-roaming wild dogs (African painted wolves) in peril, and you can help. One of South Africa’s largest free-roaming packs (19 members in October) is dependent on communal efforts amongst local landowners as they roam an estimated 65,000-ha near South Africa’s border with Botswana. Now, a core property in this range is for sale, and local conservationists need help finding a wild dog-friendly farmer/owner. The asking price for the 1,855-ha Waterberg farm is R10,5m (about $620,000). For further info, please get in touch with the project coordinator of the Waterberg Wild Dog Initiative. Please flip through your network for potential buyers and send this newsletter to them. The more of a wave we can create here, the better the chance someone will step in to help. And go!

Meanwhile, here in Hoedspruit on the border of the Greater Kruger, the big summer rains have not arrived. Yet. Late last year, I noticed that the hairy rock fig tree in our garden had not flowered up as usual and mentioned my foreboding to Lizz at the time. And, of course, now there is no sign of fruit. Scouting green pigeons and black-collared barbets have arrived and left in a huff. February is usually our wettest month, so here’s hoping for a late rain season of note.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

We’ve got something for everyone this week – safari aficionados, green travellers, city slickers and seekers of the Big 5:

Affordable South Luangwa safari – expert guide – 5 days – From US$2,460pps
This fantastic combo of walking and driving will appeal to experienced safari-goers and first-timers alike. Expect exceptional game viewing and tracking on foot, scrumptious bush breakfasts and unforgettable sundowners. Did we mention leopards?

Bush & beach, Pinotage to predators – South Africa – 12 days – From US$3,895pps
JUST DO IT! For the pursuit of culinary delights and Big 5 safari heaven, there is this iconic bush and beach safari – with exceptional Greater Kruger Big-5 game viewing, and a taste of sophisticated Cape Town and its surrounding winelands. You know you want to!

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

This week we have a challenge for you: how does your awareness of the African wilderness fair against the knowledge of our experts? In our first story below, Jamie busts seven commonly misconstrued safari myths. Having sorted the fact from fiction, we want to hear from you! How many of these safari myths caught you out, and how many did you already know?

Over the past year, we’ve closely observed the challenges facing the continent’s last remaining large tuskers that call Kenya’s Amboseli-Tsavo ecosystem home. We’ve watched closely as three iconic tuskers fell: Dida and Lugard from natural causes, and Tolstoy from complications arising from a spear wound. The work of organisations like Big Life Foundation (BLF) and Tsavo Trust is critical to the long-term coexistence between people and elephants in the area. In our second story, BLF’s Josh Clay has penned a colourful narrative on the day-to-day operations of rangers alleviating human-wildlife conflict between crop-raiding elephants and communities.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/seven-safari-myths-busted/
SAFARI MYTHS
Can you separate fact from fiction when it comes to the tall tales told about Africa’s wildlife? Our experts bust common safari myths

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/maasai-maize-and-mammoths/
MAASAI, MAIZE & MAMMOTHS
Averting crop-raiding elephants in the Amboseli ecosystem is a constant battle. Josh Clay reports on how rangers prevent human-elephant conflict

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

When I put together our first story of the week, I was thrilled to have the opportunity to offload some of my favourite facts that were too lengthy for my newsletter comment. (Do rhinos have bad eyesight? Are male lions part of the pride? You’ll have to read the story to find out.)

But there were a few misconceptions that didn’t make the cut.

For example, anyone who has spent time watching guineafowl (or driving slowly behind them) would be inclined to cast serious aspersions upon their IQ levels. They have tiny brains relative to other birds, and the consensus is that they are, to put it delicately, about as sharp as a marble. And yet, did you know that recent research shows that vulturine guineafowls live in complex, multilevel societies? They even appear to have friends. Fortunately, this does not mean that guineafowls are secretly the Einsteins of the bird world (phew) but that, despite previous beliefs to the contrary, complex social structures don’t necessarily require that much brainpower.

WATCH: The Matriarchs: Meet Corporal Agnes Sopilal, one of the first female rangers to join Big Life Foundation’s unti-poaching unit. Agnes has devoted her life to working alongside communities in the Amboseli-Tsavo ecosystem to promote the peaceful co-existence of wildlife and people (01:57). Click here to watch

Maasai, maize and mammoths – human-elephant conflict in the Amboseli ecosystem

The smoke clings to the corrugated iron ceiling like a cataract before slipping out of the open doorway and dissipating into the darkening sky. Night is approaching over the Kimana Sanctuary, a crucial elephant and wildlife corridor that links Amboseli National Park with the Chyulu Hills and Tsavo National Park in Kenya. The Big Life rangers stationed at Leopard Camp are relaxing in their kitchen hut after another long day of foot patrols, which help prevent human-elephant conflict in the Amboseli ecosystem.

The six of us sit on narrow benches while waiting for dinner. A smartphone plays YouTube videos of traditional Maasai songs as tinny lyrics accompany the trill of crickets outside. There is a jovial atmosphere because the World Cup is on tonight, and Parsitau and James are trading loud boasts in broken Swahili and English about how each country will fare.

It is Parsitau’s turn to cook a stew consisting of onions, tomatoes, sukuma wiki (kale), and nyama (meat, usually beef or goat). It’s what the rangers at Big Life eat most evenings, and is a firm favourite. He positions an aluminium plate on the table before flipping it over, and placing it upside down. Like a magician, he removes the blackened pot, unveiling its contents: a giant, steaming, white blob. The blob is known as ugali, a staple in Kenya, and is made by pounding maize meal in hot water until it becomes a thick, glutinous mass of carbohydrates. Before we start, Lekanayia goes around with a basin and a jug of water, and we take turns washing our hands. The ugali is then sliced like a cake and added to the stew. The rangers pick up small wads, making an indent with their thumb, before using it to scoop up the sauce. It is a hearty meal that is tasty and filling. We are going to need it.

Human-elephant conflict and agriculture

2022 was a challenging year for this ecosystem’s people and wildlife. The rains failed, and the entire region was crippled by drought. Bushmeat poaching has increased, cows have been reduced to walking skeletons, and livestock and wildlife carcasses are common. While all vegetation may have disappeared, groundwater from Kilimanjaro continues to resurface at the permanent swamps of Kimana, Namelok, Ilchalai, and at those inside Amboseli. These swamps are essential both to wildlife and the Maasai and their livestock, who retreat here in tough years. However, in the last thirty years, improvements to infrastructure and technology have opened this region up to the rest of the country. Many non-Maasai have realised the farming potential of the swamps’ fertile verges, and irrigated fields now line their perimeters. In addition, boreholes, some over 100m deep, have enabled people to transform dry patches of bushveld into electric green.

Maize is one of the most popular crops in Kenya as it fetches a high price at the market and, as the principal ingredient of ugali, is always in demand. Kimana’s permanent water and rich soils make for excellent growing conditions. However, cultivating maize here can come with a hefty cost because it’s not only farmers that look to reap its benefits. Maize also happens to be a favourite with elephants. Since the swamp shares an open boundary with the Kimana Sanctuary, there is little standing in the elephants’ way. This often leads to incidents of human-elephant conflict. In the weeks leading up to harvest, farmers must stay up, stay vigilant, and hope it is not their turn to be paid a visit by a peckish pachyderm.

Renowned for their intelligence, elephants know better than to barge into cultivated areas at midday. The Big Life rangers who work to prevent these conflicts have told me they often see groups of males gathering near the edge of the Sanctuary at dusk, as if gathering to plan their tactics before heading into the fields after nightfall. Across Big Life’s area of operation, elephants have been responsible for 95% of the destruction caused by wildlife to farmland in 2022 (with wildlife-inflicted destruction totalling 30 hectares).

Evening light in the yellow-barked acacia forest, Kimana Sanctuary; famous tusker Tolstoy (now deceased) and other bulls walk across Kimana Sanctuary; there is currently no buffer between farmland and wildlands in Amboseli and elephants enter the farmland easily, causing incidents of human-elephant conflict; a large family of elephants crossing the tarmac road, illuminated by an oncoming vehicle; giraffe crossing Kimana Corridor

Protecting farmers and their crops

How can people with limited resources possibly deter the largest terrestrial mammal from eating its way through their livelihoods?

The trick is to get to the elephants before they enter the fields. Farmers shout, use torches, bang corrugated iron, and light small fires around the perimeters of their fields, which is often enough to stop them. But sometimes, the farmers need backup. This is where Big Life Foundation comes in. The organisation maintains close links with local communities, and most community members have mobile phones – and so, the Big Life Radio Room can be notified about potential elephant activity before the mammals get too close. Using Earth Ranger, a revolutionary conservation technology that shows the Radio Room where every single car and unit is in real time, Big Life can quickly deploy the ranger teams closest to the elephants. This dramatically improves the chances of preventing crop raids. Rangers are equipped with robust cars, powerful spotlights, and firecrackers. As a last resort, they can fire blanks from shotguns.

Back at the kitchen hut, kick-off for the upcoming World Cup game is imminent when the radio suddenly jolts into life and muffled Swahili filters through the room. It’s 10pm, and it’s time to move. Four elephants have been spotted on their way to some fields nearby, and a Land Cruiser is coming to pick us up. We feel every bump in the back of the Cruiser as it clatters to our destination, grinning as we avoid hitting our heads on its metal frame and laughing if someone miscalculates their dodge. It is challenging to retain a sense of direction as the sounds and sights of barking dogs, tuneless music, house lights, and passing vehicles blur into one. The town melts away, and we head towards a darker area punctuated by the small fires lit as elephant deterrents. Further on, torchlight shines into the sky, accompanied by raised voices. We are getting closer. Daudi parks the vehicle and stands on the roof to scan the fields with the spotlight. There is not much to see here, but shouting further on and a message from the radio confirm that the elephants are a few minutes away. A short drive soon reveals four large elephants moving steadily toward some maize fields.

Raid of the mammoths

If one compares the damage to crops by birds, insects, and rats to that of elephants, the elephants do far less damage. However, it is difficult to tell this to people when groups of six-ton jumbos regularly trample over their crops at 1am.

“Look! There’s Ganesh!” Daniel exclaims with a knowing smile. The Amboseli Trust for Elephants (ATE) has been monitoring this ecosystem’s elephant population for fifty years. According to their records, Ganesh, at the venerable age of 59, is currently the oldest elephant in the area. He is easily recognisable because of his single tusk and frayed ears. “Even though he is mzee (old), he still loves the excitement of crop raiding,” says Daniel.

We drive to within twenty metres of the elephants, our spotlight illuminating their massive frames. They change their course almost immediately – as if they know we have come to blow the whistle on their evening game. They hang around for five minutes, toeing the ground bashfully like guilty schoolkids, before heading towards the Sanctuary in their silent gait. I ask Daniel if they always behaved so well, and he replies, “Tonight was good because everything went without an issue. But sometimes, it can take until the next day to push them out of the fields, and they often run in the opposite direction, which causes more damage. Elephants are very destructive, but sometimes I feel like we are the ones in their way.”

As we rumble back to our base, Lekanayia is chattering excitedly – delighted that Senegal has won. I resist my wavering eyelids as I think back to what David said. The balance of life in this ecosystem is delicately poised and contains many uncertain elements each day. Seasons are more challenging to predict, and droughts like this one feel harsher than before. The human population and livestock populations are rapidly expanding. This is upping pressure on grazing, not just for livestock but also for wildlife. The famed nomadic pastoralist lifestyle of the Maasai has become all but sedentary as previous notions of land use have had to reckon with the more rigid rules of 21^st-century property ownership. Humans in this region have always coexisted with wild animals, and communities shared vast open space. But now, these communities are subdividing rangelands to give each individual their share. Fences, small plots, and other arbitrary barriers are springing up, obstructing historic wildlife migration routes, entangling giraffes and antelope, and resulting in incidents like this evening’s, which are life-threatening to humans and animals.

Rangers set out regularly to avert incidents of human-elephant conflict: using fireworks to scare elephants out of farmland; chasing elephants away with a vehicle; chasing elephants from farmland area; on patrol in the agricultural areas to protect farms at night

Unhappy endings following human-elephant conflict

As Daniel said, these incidents don’t always have a happy ending, and one of the most distressing happened in early 2022. Rangers received a call that Tolstoy, the 51-year-old elephant with some of the largest tusks on the planet and one of Amboseli’s most treasured inhabitants, had suffered a severe spear wound to his ankle while raiding crops just outside of Big Life’s area of operation. He was treated and seemed to be doing well, but the spear had penetrated so deeply that it splintered some of the bone. The call that everyone dreaded came in April. Rangers from Kimana Sanctuary reported that Tolstoy was down and unable to get up. What followed was an exhausting day involving members of the Kenya Wildlife Service, Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, and Big Life Foundation to get Tolstoy back to his feet, but the combined efforts were not enough to save him.

Tolstoy’s death due to human-wildlife conflict was tragic, but such deaths are increasingly rare in this ecosystem. Across Big Life’s area of operation in 2021, they recorded zero human mortalities and only four elephant deaths resulting from conflict with humans. Out of a population of around 2,000 elephants. This population size is a remarkable figure on its own, as it marks the highest number of elephants in the Amboseli ecosystem since ATE started recording them 50 years ago.

Elephant numbers are on the rise across Kenya. While the country lost two more of its ‘super-tusker’ icons, Dida and Lugard, in 2022, both of these elephants died from natural causes – which would have been unheard of ten years ago during the peak of the poaching crisis.

Tolstoy and the other crop-raiding elephants do not mean to cause harm, and neither do the farmers trying to protect their livelihoods. Still, as more people settle in this area, interactions like this will become more frequent. This is the case throughout the country, and to prevent instances of human-elephant conflict from spiralling out of control, the work of organisations like Big Life Foundation, Tsavo Trust, the Mara Elephant Project, and the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is critical for the long-term future of coexistence between people and elephants.

Hope for the future

Out of this recent land subdivision also comes opportunity. Big Life works with local people, community leaders, and regional and national governments to find solutions by creating wildlife corridors, maintaining rangelands, and protecting farmland to benefit this ecosystem’s iconic wildlife and people. The organisation has already begun leasing land parcels in strategic areas to ensure the connectivity of wildlife migration routes. They have also constructed over 100km of electric fencing around most of the region’s major farming areas, significantly reducing crop-raiding incidents. The fence comprises crucial wildlife corridors, such as the corridor connecting Amboseli National Park with the Kimana Sanctuary. While the corridor is less than 80m wide at its narrowest point, camera trap footage has shown it to be a great success, used by a diversity of wildlife – from springhares and aardvarks to giraffes and elephants.

Big Life has constructed over 100km of electric fencing to protect both wildlife and farmers from incidents of human-elephant conflict

The future of this landscape is by no means certain. But due to the unwavering dedication of over 350 rangers like those in Kimana Sanctuary, Big Life Foundation has helped maintain the fragile balance of this ecosystem. While there will be many more nights where elephants find themselves in cultivated areas, as long as Big Life receives funding and support, its rangers will also guide them to safety.

Resources

Lend your support and read more about Big Life Foundation here.

A common sight, elephants emerge from Kimana Sanctuary to graze in the swamp with cultivated fields in the foreground

Seven safari myths – busted

Many passionate Africa enthusiasts out there do their utmost to sort the fact from the fiction. These people know perfectly well that male lions are quite capable of hunting (and do so regularly) and that porcupines do not shoot their quills like arrows at would-be attackers. They scoff at the idea of elephants drunk on marula fruits and would never label a spotted hyena as a scavenger. But just how good (and up to date) is your knowledge of African wildlife? And can you separate your safari myths and truths?

Our understanding of animal behaviour, genetics, and evolution is constantly advancing and staying on top of every discovery is almost impossible. So here is an opportunity to pit your knowledge against our expert-level list of safari myths.

Myth: Female hyenas always rank higher than any males in the clan

Truth: Yes, it is true that a hyena clan is almost always led by a formidable matriarch figure and that their societies are predominantly matriarchal. But the familiar adage that even the lowest-ranked female outranks the highest-ranked male is nonsense. Rank is inherited. So, the son of a high-ranking female will outrank any of the females below his mother in the hierarchy (and even his older female siblings).

While most male hyenas will eventually disperse to a different clan, a few opt not to sell their birthright for a veritable mess of pottage and instead stay within their natal clan. Research shows that this tactic pays off, and these philopatric (stay-at-home, essentially) boys sire just as many offspring as those that leave.

Fascinatingly, a young male can even lead a clan if his matriarch mother dies. The story of one such male, Majani, was documented by researchers from the Ngorongoro Hyena Project in an article titled “A king among queens”.

safari myths hyena — One of the most common safari myths is that female hyenas always rank higher than males

Myth: Dominant male lions are members of a pride

Truth: This is one of the fun safari myths because you will be hard-pressed to find a scientific citation that states outright that male lions are not a permanent pride fixture, and many African mammal reference books still refer to them as such. However, simple long-term observation shows that this is usually not the case.

When free-ranging male lions reach maturity, they often leave their natal pride in the company of brothers or cousins. Failing that, lone teenagers seek out the company of other dispersal males of a similar age. Simply put, there is an advantage in numbers, and these male coalitions can compete for larger territories with access to multiple neighbouring lion prides. They move between prides and spend time with the females, often motivated by the presence of kills or oestrus females, but sometimes apparently for companionship.

When these males are eventually ousted by competitors (and survive the process), they will move off in search of new territory and may spend a few years with another set of lion prides. Lionesses are the genetic guardians of a region for decades at a time – male lions are temporary fixtures for a few years at most. This approach also keeps inbreeding to a minimum.

safari myths lions — Do male lions ever really belong to a pride?

Myth: Impalas can delay the birth of their offspring for several weeks

Truth: In fairness, many guides are doing their best to quash this most popular of safari myths, but it is still astonishingly widespread. Impala ewes have no control over their gestation period – the parturition process (birth) is triggered by a complex interaction between the foetus, the mother and a soup of hormones.

The timing of the first rainfall may influence the gestation length slightly because the mother’s nutrient intake influences the development of her foetus. But the difference is measured in days (if that), not weeks, and one should be cautious of drawing hard conclusions. Research of other small ruminants shows that undernutrition at different times of pregnancy – from conception to the third trimester – can influence gestation length differently. Early births may not be due to early rains; they could have resulted from reduced food intake around the time of foetal implantation months prior! The point is that oestrus cycles, conception, implantation, pregnancy, and birth are all complex processes dependent on various factors, and deliberately postponing birth with some kind of animal barometer is beyond the realms of physiological possibility.

safari myths impala — Can impala ewes delay the birth of their lambs?

Myth: Black rhinos are short-sighted (contributing to equally short tempers)

Truth: It is widely understood that rhinos have exceptional senses of smell and hearing but notoriously poor eyesight. The research that largely disproves this was published over a decade ago, but the idea of a myopic black rhino still persists. This is not to say that their vision is exceptional. However, a study of their retinal ganglion cell densities suggests that their eyesight is comparable to that of rabbits and only slightly weaker than a domestic cat. The scientists estimate that a black rhino could readily distinguish a human on an open plain at a distance of 200 metres.

Myth: Nile crocodile species are “living fossils”, millions of years old

Truth: Crocodilia species have roamed the earth for around 95 million years, emerging during the Late Cretaceous period. However, in that rather substantial period between then and now, they have undergone many evolutionary changes. The same research that identified the West African crocodile as a separate species (Crocodylus suchus) showed that Nile crocodiles (C. niloticus) as a species have only been around as long as humans. Interestingly, they are also more closely related to American crocodiles than their smaller West African neighbours!

Myth: Giraffes form no lasting bonds over their lifespan

Truth: Giraffe social structure has long been described as a loose social aggregation, or fission-fusion society, where females randomly move between herds. However, recent long-term studies have revealed a far greater complexity to giraffe sociality than previously believed, almost on par with those of elephant breeding herds. Many of the matrilineal groups researched consisted of three generations of grandmothers, mothers and daughters, and these associations remained stable for years.

One of the widely believed safari myths is that giraffes do not form lasting bonds

Myth: Scrotum imprints in aardvark tracks show it was a male digging

Truth: This is one of our favourites because it has come as something of a shock to many (the author of this article included) that this commonly held belief was not just a fanciful leap of logic but a physical impossibility. Aardvarks – the prolific diggers of the bushveld – have internal testes, like elephants and rhinos. However, the males and females both have two round scent glands that touch the ground when the animal is lying on its haunches. Oops.

One safari myth is that one can identify if a male aardvark was doing the digging by looking at the imprints of the scrotum in its tracks. Click here for more pics from Rudolf Hug

Having now sorted through the facts and the fiction, we want to hear from you! How many of these safari myths caught you out, and how many did you already know? What’s your favourite safari myth? Leave us a comment below the story (login orget the app to comment – instructions on how below this story).

THIS WEEK

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Treehuggers + pyromaniac kites + your mid-year safari

TREEHUGGERS – the term used disparagingly by some self-appointed conservation experts to describe environmental activists. How desperately ironic then that the primary reason that some of these experts are promoting the culling of huge numbers of elephants is to save the trees!

teamAG had a busy festive season; safari enquiries have picked up hugely since the dark days of Covid – YAY! Also, we have rebuilt the safari portion of our website – check it out. Expect more safari options to come online in the coming months, and then stand by for that big announcement in a few weeks/months (African time) about more affordable safaris that leave a lasting legacy at ground level here in Africa. Exciting times …

Thanks for the messages and valuable info in response to my question in last week’s newsletter about the conservation benefits of breeding tigers in Africa. I am also in touch with the owners of the farm and collating info with the view to a future story. Fittingly, in an unrelated incident an escaped pet tiger was shot a few days ago in the suburbs of Johannesburg

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Longing to follow in the footsteps of Africa’s greatest tuskers? Or witness the ethereal, otherworldly landscapes of fossilised salt pans? We have two magical safaris on offer…

Walking with giants in Tsavo – 13 days – From US$11,290 pps
This bygone-era walking safari tracks the wise old elephant herds as they follow the Galana River through Tsavo, Kenya. Sharing the elephants’ home on equal footing & encountering the famous maneless lions, gerenuks & hirolas (the world’s rarest antelope) of Tsavo will supersede any previous game-viewing experiences you’ve had. Stay in beautiful colonial camps along the way & explore the surroundings on game drives in the afternoons. The perfect balance between comfort & adventure.

Botswana salt pans – 4 days – From US$925 pps
On the eastern fringes of the Kalahari lies a collection of huge salt pans – desolate, flat landscapes that stretch as far as the eye can see. This safari goes beyond the Big 5 and allows you the chance to witness the second-largest zebra migration in the world (during green season). Popular pans you can visit include Makgadikgadi Pans (bedecked in massive baobab trees) and Nxai Pan (where you’ll find the famous Baines’ baobabs). Plus there are plenty of activities on offer for families.

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

I am ecstatic to see so many members of the AG tribe setting travel plans into motion with the help of our safari experts. Over the next few months we have travellers packing their bags to experience the Big 5 in reserves in South Africa, the tuskers of Tsavo and Amboseli, the mighty waters of Victoria Falls, the islands of the Indian Ocean, and the Serengeti migration – just to name a few. But with all the options out there, where to start? If you’re planning your mid-year safari, check out our first story below: we’ve prepped a guide on the best places to safari between June and August.

In our second story, we’re putting the spotlight on one of Africa’s most hardy and courageous creatures: the warthog. No safari is complete without time spent observing the entertaining antics of these characters, which will reveal a wealth of personality and attitude.

Happy celebrating Africa!

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/safari-season-jun-jul-aug/
MID-YEAR SAFARI
Planning your mid-year African safari? Here’s our guide to the best places to go on safari from June to August

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/warthog/
THE WARTHOG
Warthogs are the fast and courageous tusked pigs of Africa. Known for their haggard looks, the warthog is an entertaining sight on any safari

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Anyone who has ever experienced a wildfire will be able to attest to how terrifying they are. Yet as the skies turn a smoky red, the kites and hawks wheel overhead, snatching up the creatures fleeing from the flames in a savage feeding frenzy. It’s all very Edgar Allan Poe…

Did you know there is anecdotal evidence that black kites deliberately spread fires? For thousands of years, Australia’s Aboriginal peoples have believed that these “firehawks” carry burning twigs to set new areas alight. There is enough evidence that scientists are investigating this theory.

So here’s my question for reserve managers, ecologists, and rangers across Africa. The stories originate from Australia, but black kites are also found throughout much of our continent. So have you ever encountered a pyromaniac black kite? Because if so, I know of some researchers that would be very eager to talk.

Sabi Sands big cat safari

And more from Jamie:
“I’ve just returned from our five-night Sabi Sands big cat safari – one filled with incredible sightings, spectacular scenery, and countless belly laughs. It unequivocally goes down as one of my favourite safaris of all time.

For genuine nature lovers, January is a magnificent time to visit the bushveld, and ours was a group of well-seasoned safari-goers with enough experience and insight to appreciate the majesty of the unfolding summer. Not for nothing is the Sabi Sands considered one of the leopard capitals of Africa, and it certainly lived up to its reputation for our safari. We saw four different leopards during our six-day sojourn, and nearly every drive delivered a rosetted pelage for our indulgence. Yet it was the quality of these sightings, not the quantity, that made the experience truly special.

Keep an eye out for the full safari report-back in the coming weeks, featuring some fantastic images from our photographically talented guests!”

WATCH: Witness the moments leading up to and following the magical birth of a lion cub. This lioness gave birth to her cub away from the antics of the pride. A special moment captured in Mala Mala Game Reserve, South Africa (01:18). Click here to watch

Warthog

For some reason, history has marked the warthog as an object of lampoonery. From the happy-go-lucky Pumba to being listed as one of Africa’s “Ugly 5”, warthogs always seem somewhat unfairly caricatured. There is nothing intrinsically wrong with a bit of humour on safari (and they certainly won’t be in the slightest bit bothered), but it is well worth remembering that there is always more to wild animals than meets the eye.

For a start, warthogs are fast, hardy and courageous. And a bit of time spent observing their antics will reveal a wealth of personality and attitude beneath that rather homely façade.

Which warthog?

Unbeknownst to most, there are two species of warthogs roaming the African continent – the common warthog (Phacochoerus africanus) and the desert warthog (Phacochoerus aeithiopicus). As the name implies, the former is the more widely distributed of the two and is found throughout much of sub-Saharan Africa. The desert warthog is restricted to the Horn of Africa, extending from south-eastern Ethiopia through Somalia and central Kenya. They can be distinguished from their common cousins by a complete absence of incisor teeth. Neither species survives well in forest habitats.

The desert warthog was a surprise to researchers of the early 2000s. Until then, the species P. aeithiopicus was known to science but believed to have gone extinct in South Africa during the late 19th century. The warthogs of the Horn of Africa were thought to be a variant of P. africanus. However, morphological and genetic analysis revealed the desert warthogs to be the surviving members of P. aethiopicus.

Apart from minor morphological differences, the two species share most physical and behavioural features. They are both heavy-headed members of the Suid (pig) family, with modified canine teeth extending out of their mouths as tusks. Each warthog has two sets of tusks: the upper maxillary pair that in males may grow over 25cm in length and the shorter but razor-sharp mandibular pair. Like the tusks of elephants, these continue to grow throughout the warthog’s life. Though not as valuable as elephants’ ivory, warthog ivory is carved and traded.

With only a thin layer of hair on their bodies and little subcutaneous fat, warthogs are vulnerable to low temperatures

The conical facial protuberances for which warthogs are named are outgrowths of thickened skin believed to serve a defensive purpose. Those of mature boars are particularly well-developed, and the suborbital pair below their eyes can protrude as much as 15cm, conferring a somewhat alien shape to their faces. Scent glands are positioned at the base of each tusk and corner of the eyes that both sexes use to mark sleeping and feeding areas and waterholes. (This rubbing behaviour is often wrongly interpreted as scratching.)To complete the oil-painting that is the warthog, the grey, wrinkled skin is covered by a sparse layer of bristly fur, and they appear almost bald but for the ridge of mane that runs down the centre of their backs. The absurdly skinny tail ends in a tuft of bristles and is held upright when the animal is alarmed or fleeing. Warthogs have minimal subcutaneous fat and this, combined with a thin covering of hair, makes them vulnerable to extreme temperatures, particularly cold. They will huddle together below ground to stay warm at night and often only emerge several hours after sunrise on cool, cloudy days.

The warthog’s conical facial protuberances are outgrowths of thickened skin believed to serve a defensive purpose. The pair below the eyes can protrude as much as 15cm on mature boars

Quick facts

Height:	63.5-85cm
Mass:	Males: 60-150kg
	Females: 45-70kg
Social structure:	Sounders
Gestation:	Around 170 days (roughly six months)
IUCN conservation status:	Least Concern

Knuckle-walkers

Warthogs are primarily grazers and spend most of the morning and late afternoon foraging. This they do with rump raised skyward, resting on roughened pads on their carpal (wrist) joints. Warthogs exhibit omnivorous tendencies and will supplement their diets with insects, eggs and even carrion – they have even been known to chase cheetahs off kills to grab a bite or two. They are prolific diggers, especially during the dry season, when they survive predominantly on bulbs, rhizomes, and roots. Like other pig family members, their snouts are well-adapted for digging and rooting, with an extra prenasal bone serving as a support and attachment for muscles and ligaments. The top of the nasal disc is also hardened and shovel-like.

Warthogs spend most of the morning and late afternoon foraging. Here, a young warthog enjoys the sumptuous tenderness of water lilies

Warthogs are strictly diurnal and retreat to a network of burrows before the fall of darkness. They can dig out their own tunnels but often opt for the more efficient approach of renovating abandoned aardvark networks. Interestingly, these are often shared with nocturnal porcupines as differing diel cycles make the two species ideally suited bedfellows. These burrows also serve as boltholes for warthogs that have attracted the attention of one of their many predators.\

Sound(er) and fury

Though not strictly territorial, warthogs generally remain within a home range throughout their lives and have an intimate knowledge of the terrain. If attacked, their first defence is always to flee, and their turn of speed is simply astonishing. Not only are they capable of attaining speeds of close to 50km/hour, but their acceleration would shame some of the fanciest car models. They aim for the nearest burrow and disappear bottom first, with razor-sharp tusks facing front and centre to deter the more determined pursuers.

If the warthog fails to find refuge, it will fight fiercely to defend itself or its piglets. Though hyenas, wild dogs (painted wolves), leopards and lions are all potential predators, many do not walk away from such hunts unscathed. Though the top tusks are more for show than anything else, the bottom pair continually rubs against the upper, creating a razor edge easily capable of slicing through skin.

As a side note, many a novice guide or tracker has got the fright of their career when foolishly walking in front of a seemingly innocuous hole in the ground without giving it a suitable berth. The experience of 100-odd kilograms of pig flying past your legs at light speed is not soon forgotten and is at best, a learning experience, and at worst, may evoke the need for a few reconstructive surgeries and extensive physiotherapy.

This little piggy…

Warthog boars also use their tusks during the rut at the start of the dry season. Forehead to forehead, these dramatic fights can last for hours as competitors thrust and parry, often leaving both parties bloodied and exhausted. The fruits of their labours (so to speak) arrive with the next season’s rains, as tiny piglets begin to emerge from below ground on wobbly legs.

Beauty may well be in the eye of the beholder regarding adult warthogs, but their piglets are undeniably heart-meltingly winsome. Females can give birth to litters of up to eight piglets at a time, so they are almost ludicrously tiny during their first forays into the wide world. The sows live together in sounders – most likely consisting of related females – and will care for and suckle each other’s piglets. The vulnerable youngsters very quickly grow a line of white fur along the bottom of their cheeks, presumably to mimic tusks as nature’s way of making them seem less edible.

Unfortunately, it has no deterrent effect, and warthog piglets are preyed upon by everything from the larger predators to eagles and snakes. Less than half will survive their first year, despite the mother’s brave and fierce attempts to defend them. Surviving females stay with their mothers in their natal groups, but subadult males eventually wander off and form bachelor groups with other youngsters. It will likely be several years before they are large enough to compete for mating rights.

Final thoughts

Almost any safari is all but guaranteed to yield at least one sighting of a warthog. Chances are there will be a sounder or two that spends the day in and around your lodge. So it makes sense to fully appreciate them not just based on their rather haggard looks but for the fascinating creatures they are – warts and all.

Resources

Read all the facts you need to know about warthogs here.

THIS WEEK

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It’s back! + fab photos & gregarious giraffes

It’s Friday the 13th! If you’re quaking at the thought, you probably believe that rhino horn cures cancer or that gifting a diamond will bring you love forever. Either way, hakuna matata 😉

Tigers in South Africa’s Great Karoo grassland biome – is this conservation? The 6,100 ha reserve known as Tiger Canyon in the Free State claims to be a conservation program for endangered wild tigers, with ‘various separate territories for the wild tigers and cheetahs to thrive in and survive’, where your game drive vehicle is ‘enclosed to protect you from … the tigers’.

Regarding the cheetahs, the Tiger Canyon website says, ‘walking with them is often possible … this allows photographers to get eye level and low-level shots more easily’. Tiger Canyon has historically provided cheetahs for the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s ongoing efforts to repopulate other reserves in Southern Africa.

Back to my question. Ignoring, if you can, the relatively small size of the reserve and dodgy cheetah monetisation, is breeding tigers outside of their natural range helpful to conservation? Email me here. No haters, please; I am interested in genuine discussion and learning.

Keep the passion

Simon Espley – CEO, Africa Geographic

TRAVEL DESK UPDATES:

Adventure awaits on these two safaris, which will take you to the heart of the bushveld action. Our travel experts are just waiting to plan your next safari.

Greater Kruger Big 5 photographic safari – 5 days – From $1,865pps
Join award-winning photographer Ernest Porter on a private photographic safari at Pungwe Safari Camp in Manyeleti Game Reserve, Greater Kruger. Ernest will help you capture great photos and learn about every animal and bird spotted. Close encounters, approached to ensure the best shooting angles and lighting, will guarantee your ratio of “keepers”. This safari is limited to 8 guests, ensuring personal attention.

Botswana classic: mobile tented safari – 11 days – From $5,300pps
Head out on a once-in-a-lifetime safari to explore Botswana’s best protected game-viewing areas. Led by experienced guides, you will track lions, leopards, hyenas, cheetahs and wild dogs across dry savannah. Glide silently down meandering waterways in search of glittering birds and spend time with large herds of elephants cavorting in the wide Chobe River. Your hosts will move your mobile tented camp between destinations while you get the most out of your safari.

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

Our 2022 Photographer of the Year, Alex Brackx, clinched his title with an image of a zebra’s last seconds of life, capturing a desperate battle for survival – an aspect of life central to our fascination with the wildlife of Africa. We invited the seasoned photographer to share some of his favourite images with the AG tribe. Alex’s portrayals of life on the African savannah will have you reaching for your cameras and longing for time out in the bushveld. See Alex’s gallery in our first story below.

As the tallest animal on Earth, the giraffe does not exactly keep a low profile. Yet, despite a worldwide enchantment with these wonders of evolution, our understanding of their social structures is lacking. But research reveals that giraffes have complex social structures not dissimilar to those of elephants. Read more about the behaviours uncovered in our second story below.

Story 1
https://africageographic.com/stories/alex-brackx-2022-photographer-of-the-year/
EPIC PHOTOS
2022 Photographer of the Year Alex Brackx shares a selection of his favourite images & the stories behind them

Story 2
https://africageographic.com/stories/giraffe-social-structure-as-complex-as-elephants/
GREGARIOUS GIRAFFES
Did you know giraffe social structure is as complex as elephants’? Read more on their kinships & communication behaviours

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Did you know that the glass frogs in the Americas can make themselves more translucent by sequestering red blood cells in their livers? This removes most of the red colour from the blood, enhancing the effect of the translucent abdominal skin and hiding the muscles and organs. As a result, the frog becomes next to invisible on the leaves of tropical forests, the ultimate camouflage to protect it from predators while it’s sleeping.

The real mystery is how they selectively pool nearly 90% of the red blood cells in one place without triggering a clotting cascade, yet they still clot when injured. The physiological explanation may have profoundly practical applications in human medicine.

📷 Dust off your cameras! 📷

Photographer of the Year 2023 is just around the corner!

We are pleased to announce that entries open on 1st February. You have three months to get your entries in before judging during May and the winners announcement at the end May.

There are cash prizes to the value of $10,000 and an epic safari to Northern Tuli Game Reserve in Botswana up for grabs. Do you have any impressive pics that celebrate Africa? Check out the entry details here and get snapping.

Proudly sponsored by Hemmersbach Rhino Force and Mashatu Botswana.

WATCH: What happens when an ostrich and gemsbok come to blows? Find out in this footage of a scuffle between an ostrich trying to protect its chicks and a contentious gemsbok, captured at a waterhole in the Namib Desert, Namibia (04:56). Click here to watch

Giraffe social structure as complex as elephants’

Our understanding of wild animal behaviour is ever-evolving. Analysis of available research reveals what many experts have been suggesting for decades: giraffe probably have a complex social structure that is not dissimilar to elephants.

Studying the nuances of their social structures is a complex process but is vital to unravelling evolutionary histories and designing effective conservation measures. For most large mammals, we have at least a rudimentary grasp of their social ethology. Yet, despite being one of the largest mammals on earth, the giraffe seems to have flown under the radar for an astonishing amount of time.

Until the 2000s, behavioural ecologists described giraffe as “socially aloof” (Estes 1991). The perception was that their groupings were fluid in nature, with no lasting bonds between individuals. Interpreting their social cues has been further complicated by the subtleties of their communication. Elephants and carnivores, for example, exhibit a range of vocal and body language signals that aid in interpreting the dynamics between individuals. On the other hand, giraffe are largely silent (though they do hum at low frequencies below human hearing) and apparently inexpressive. To this day, giraffe communication systems are poorly understood.

In order to investigate giraffe social structure, researchers from the University of Bristol conducted a review of 404 scientific papers on the behaviour and social organisation of giraffe. They aimed to test the hypotheses that giraffe have complex cooperative social systems and that these are matrilineal. In other words, whether or not giraffes form stable groups of females, whether females stay in their natal groups while males disperse and if, within female groups, individuals play a supportive role in raising and protecting calves.

The researchers found that giraffe group sizes usually consist of between three to nine individuals, though lone animals were often recorded. The groups were most likely to be kin (with the strongest association between mothers and grown offspring). In many instances, these associations remained stable for years and often consisted of three generations of related individuals. These matrilineal groups themselves seem to exist in a larger, more fluid society, with groups of related females associating with each other or males within their range. Giraffe mothers have been observed leaving their calves in a creche cared for by another adult. Cows also show distress behaviours following the death of another individual’s calf. These behaviours strongly suggest that giraffe cooperate during breeding.

Want to plan your African safari to spot giraffe in the wild? We have ready-made safaris to choose from, or start planning a unique safari made just for you.

The authors’ investigation also demonstrated that giraffe spend up to 30% of their lives in a post-reproductive state – similar to humans and some whales, which survive past the cessation of fertility. Female elephants and giraffe are capable of reproducing right up until the end of their natural lives but their fertility declines as they age and the time between successive calves increases considerably. The ‘Grandmother hypothesis’ (a theory that explains this phenomenon) suggests that post-reproductive peak females survive to help raise successive generations. Though this theory has received the usual degree of scientific disagreement, the finding emphasises the potential importance of older giraffe. As seen in elephants, it is possible that these old females are instrumental as repositories of knowledge, which may help giraffe survive times of drought or famine.

With giraffe populations in freefall (see Giraffes: The Silent Extinction), research such as this is essential in designing successful conservation interventions and encouraging the recognition of their levels of intelligence and complexity. Though further research is needed to fully unravel the intricacies of giraffe social structure, it is evident that they are not nearly as simple as once believed. The implications of this newfound understanding extend not just to interpreting the lives of females but also older males. Again, similar to elephants, the bulls may also have an important social role, and their selective removal (such as through hunting or culling) could have far-reaching effects.

As co-author Dr Zoe Muller explains, “Conservation measures will be more successful if we have an accurate understanding of the species’ behavioural ecology. If we view giraffes as a highly socially complex species, this also raises their ‘status’ towards being a more complex and intelligent mammal that is increasingly worthy of protection.”

Resources

The full paper can be accessed here: “A review of the social behaviour of the giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis: a misunderstood but socially complex species“, Muller, M., Harris, S., Mammal Review

A new age and status for Maputo National Park

The art of revival: go big with hyena to go wild

Bad-turned-good friends with benefits

Best safari month + talking testes + elegant impala

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Impala basics

Quick impala facts

In leaps and bounds

Colours, contours and cleanliness

A roaring good time

The lambs of spring (well, summer)

Final thoughts on impala

Trophy hunting exposé + expedition Iona

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

The Iona challenge

An expedition is born

Hope and change in Iona

Art and glasses

Shifting dunes

Iona’s raw wilderness

Wild freedom in Iona

What are the benefits for local people of trophy hunting in NG13?

What are the benefits for the NG13 trophy hunter?

Old Man’s Pan Pty Ltd Trophy hunting NG13 income statement – 2022 estimate

AS AN ASIDE, the surgical removal of Africa’s remaining giant tuskers makes no conservation sense

For now, though, let’s ignore the glaring conservation issues and focus on the supposed benefits to local people of trophy hunting in NG13.

Untamed Nkhotakota + intelligent giraffes + iconic Kenyan safaris

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve

The agents of success

500 (ish) elephants

And thousands more

Explore & stay

Final thoughts

Nairobi National Park + captivating genets + big-cat safari

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

A genet-ic confusion

Spot the difference

A genet by any name (will still smell)

Kitted out genets

Pet genets

Final thoughts

Nairobi National Park

Kifaru’s Ark

Kenya’s many migrations

Free as a bird

Explore & stay in Nairobi National Park

Final thoughts on Nairobi National Park

Bush & beach + vultures released + everything Mara

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Vultures in crisis

The Vulture Ambulance

How can you help?

Further reading

The beach safari

The beach with added safari

Incredible coastal wilderness

Magnificent Matusadona + Giraffe return to Iona

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Matusadona National Park

Out of sight…?

Matusadona is full to the brim

Explore & stay in Matusadona

Final thoughts

Rhino dehorning impacts + Ethiopian wolves + Great Migration

From our Editor – Taryn van Jaarsveld

From our Scientific Editor – Jamie Paterson

Final thoughts on rhino dehorning

Resources

The Ethiopian wolf

Quick facts

Wolf, jackal, or fox?

Wolf pack

Keeping the wolf from the door

Final thoughts

Old Man’s Pan Pty Ltd
Trophy hunting NG13 income statement – 2022 estimate